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Hello

3S-GE(Altezza) injectors are the same physical size as the ones in the 1G-FE(beige).

thinking of swapping them over, am told the 3S-GE(Altezza) injectors are 340cc.

TDI offer 500cc injector upgrade for the TTEcompresor Kit, just had a Uni-Chip fitted to my car, the tuning shop feel 500cc may be to large, but tell me my car could do with a tad moor 98premium!

I have had a lot of trouble with the Supercharger kit its never seemed to run 100% have blown engine once before, is it just me or has anyone else had troubles?

This kit is relatively rear in New Zealand and Know one seems to be able to sort the problems! :crybaby:

The car is running lean, and misses quite badly under load, and is slow on initial pick up.

Any help and advice would be much appreciated?

Thank you; Graham.

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not heard of any problems of the TTE superchargers fitted as standard

problems only occur when boost is raised ;)

I have only heard of 2 engines blowing - both had standard boost. One was seriously abused but I don't know about Chris Shipley's :)

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not heard of any problems of the TTE superchargers fitted as standard

problems only occur when boost is raised ;)

I have only heard of 2 engines blowing - both had standard boost. One was seriously abused but I don't know about Chris Shipley's :)

but wasnt the abuse mainly to the exhaust system ? and not directly caused by the supercharger

im sure chris was just unfortunate engine failure, lexus warrantied the works so i guess it hads nothing to do with the supercharger

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How much is 'seriously abused' TDi?

Good to know like.

The only one I have any direct experience of was driven flat out consistently on the rev limiter in each gear with an exhaust sytem that was bent almost in half.

not heard of any problems of the TTE superchargers fitted as standard

problems only occur when boost is raised ;)

I have only heard of 2 engines blowing - both had standard boost. One was seriously abused but I don't know about Chris Shipley's :)

but wasnt the abuse mainly to the exhaust system ? and not directly caused by the supercharger

im sure chris was just unfortunate engine failure, lexus warrantied the works so i guess it hads nothing to do with the supercharger

Don't know for sure Barrie. It's probably fair to say that the engine would have been ok in the same circumstances if it wasn't supercharged.

Maybe the best thing is to try and find out how many standard engines have blown. Persnonally I haven't seen any supercharged engines that have not blown without provocation, but there may be some out there.

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Hey guys.

My engine blew due to running lean.

The engine had no modifications at that stage.

Only possibility is that the dealer had filled it with a low octane fuel.

Thanks

Graham

from your post I can only assume that the engine blew within one tank of fuel?? so in less than 600kms?????

if that is true then something is/was seriously wrong with the installation

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Hey guys.

My engine blew due to running lean.

The engine had no modifications at that stage.

Only possibility is that the dealer had filled it with a low octane fuel.

Thanks

Graham

The engine ECU is able to alter timing etc if low octane fuel is used, it wouldn't cause the engine to blow. There must have been a serious problem with the engine/fueling system

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  • 2 weeks later...

There is a tipical problem with the IS, specially if the catalitic converters are damaged !

The ECU doesn't read or receives a malfuction, but reduces the fuel supply to the engine, by assuming a voltage reading different from the necesary under the actual load through the O2 sensors.

That blows the engine, cuased by engine knock at mid-hi RPM's....it happend to me.

Solution:

Eliminate all 3 catalitic converters

Install a O2 simulator on the rear O2

Add all gas you need, and the ECU won't detect any "out of parameter" rich mixture needed for S/C or

turbo engines (@11:1).

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There is a tipical problem with the IS, specially if the catalitic converters are damaged !

The ECU doesn't read or receives a malfuction, but reduces the fuel supply to the engine, by assuming a voltage reading different from the necesary under the actual load through the O2 sensors.

That blows the engine, cuased by engine knock at mid-hi RPM's....it happend to me.

Solution:

Eliminate all 3 catalitic converters

Install a O2 simulator on the rear O2

Add all gas you need, and the ECU won't detect any "out of parameter" rich mixture needed for S/C or

turbo engines (@11:1).

3 cats being main cat and 2 in the manifold?? :question:

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There is a tipical problem with the IS, specially if the catalitic converters are damaged !

The ECU doesn't read or receives a malfuction, but reduces the fuel supply to the engine, by assuming a voltage reading different from the necesary under the actual load through the O2 sensors.

That blows the engine, cuased by engine knock at mid-hi RPM's....it happend to me.

Solution:

Eliminate all 3 catalitic converters

Install a O2 simulator on the rear O2

Add all gas you need, and the ECU won't detect any "out of parameter" rich mixture needed for S/C or

turbo engines (@11:1).

The worst problem is when the engine is runs into lean condition. That happens when you don't have anything to add the needed extra fuelling. At least an adequate piggy-back ecu is needed to do that, but a stand-alone ecu would the best solution (for me personally that isn't an option, because of the Finnish emission legislation).

When the fuelling is correct, there's no need to "eliminate" the cats. The problem occurs when the engine runs lean. Lean mixture makes the exhaust gasses too hot for the cats to handle, which makes them to "melt".

Lean mixture doesn't cause the knocking/detonation, it's the too advanced ignition. So when upping the boost and addind fuelling, you must also retard ignition (and/or lower the compression ratio). Forged internals made especially for the F/I use help to cope with the detonation, as "turbo pistons" usually have a specific "detonation groove".

And the rear/3rd O2 sensor doesn't have anything to do with the mixtures, it's there only for monitoring the emissions. It's the two O2 sensors in the exhaust manifold which the ecu uses to alter the mixture. So those two sensors are the ones you would want to replase with an O2 simulator. That also keeps the std ecu from trying to equalize the "too rich condition" needed in F/I applications.

What did you mean with that "11:1"? The compression ratio? 1G-FE's compression ratio is 10:1. And now as I am rebuilding my engine with forged internals for the turbo use, I'm going to lower the compression ratio with a thicker head gasket to a more suitable 9:1 .

Hope this was of any help.

EDIT: I checked the original topic again, and it was about the injectors. 1G-FE standard injectors are good for roughly 250hp.

You can get it from the following equation:

220cc (the size of the injectors)

6 (number of the injectors)

--->

220cc x 6 / 5 = 264hp

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There is a tipical problem with the IS, specially if the catalitic converters are damaged !

The ECU doesn't read or receives a malfuction, but reduces the fuel supply to the engine, by assuming a voltage reading different from the necesary under the actual load through the O2 sensors.

That blows the engine, cuased by engine knock at mid-hi RPM's....it happend to me.

Solution:

Eliminate all 3 catalitic converters

Install a O2 simulator on the rear O2

Add all gas you need, and the ECU won't detect any "out of parameter" rich mixture needed for S/C or

turbo engines (@11:1).

The worst problem is when the engine is runs into lean condition. That happens when you don't have anything to add the needed extra fuelling. At least an adequate piggy-back ecu is needed to do that, but a stand-alone ecu would the best solution (for me personally that isn't an option, because of the Finnish emission legislation).

When the fuelling is correct, there's no need to "eliminate" the cats. The problem occurs when the engine runs lean. Lean mixture makes the exhaust gasses too hot for the cats to handle, which makes them to "melt".

Lean mixture doesn't cause the knocking/detonation, it's the too advanced ignition. So when upping the boost and addind fuelling, you must also retard ignition (and/or lower the compression ratio). Forged internals made especially for the F/I use help to cope with the detonation, as "turbo pistons" usually have a specific "detonation groove".

And the rear/3rd O2 sensor doesn't have anything to do with the mixtures, it's there only for monitoring the emissions. It's the two O2 sensors in the exhaust manifold which the ecu uses to alter the mixture. So those two sensors are the ones you would want to replase with an O2 simulator. That also keeps the std ecu from trying to equalize the "too rich condition" needed in F/I applications.

What did you mean with that "11:1"? The compression ratio? 1G-FE's compression ratio is 10:1. And now as I am rebuilding my engine with forged internals for the turbo use, I'm going to lower the compression ratio with a thicker head gasket to a more suitable 9:1 .

Hope this was of any help.

EDIT: I checked the original topic again, and it was about the injectors. 1G-FE standard injectors are good for roughly 250hp.

You can get it from the following equation:

220cc (the size of the injectors)

6 (number of the injectors)

--->

220cc x 6 / 5 = 264hp

So from what you are saying... If you've got a decent seperate ECU / engine management system / also running enough fuel / no cats in the car / plus an O2 sim... Then there should be no reason for the engine to blow :question:

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So from what you are saying... If you've got a decent seperate ECU / engine management system / also running enough fuel / no cats in the car / plus an O2 sim... Then there should be no reason for the engine to blow :question:

Yes and no.

If you use a piggy-back ecu, O2 sims would help to keep the std ecu from compensating the alterations you've made with the piggy. But then you would need an independent extra O2 sensor - preferrably a WIDE BAND type - to monitor the correct fuelling.

If you run stand-alone, then you can't use the sims, because the stand-alone ecu would need to know the mixture as well. But in this option the wide band sensor would be the best option as well.

And still no need to remove the cats. It wouldn't hurt to remove or replace the PRE-cats w/ better ones (I have replaced them with better flowing Audi 2.7 bi-turbo ones (each flows over 300hp, so no restrictions)). But if running "only" a piggy-back ecu DO NOT remove the last cat, as if you do, you WILL get an engine light on because the ecu sees that the emissions are out of acceptable range! You can REPLACE it with a better one, but do not remove it.

It goes like this:

Pre-cats are there for to work right after starting the engine before it has completely warmed up to the required operating temperature (as they are closer to the engine, they warm up quicker).

The two O2 sensors in manifold are there for the ecu to monitor the mixture.

The last cat and last O2 sensor in turn are there only for the emission reasons. If you remove either of the two (in piggy-back configuration) you will get a trouble code.

But these alone won't keep you from blowing the engine. With std internals, you'd have to keep the boost at a reasonable level. And from what I've been through, the safe level seems to be somewhere around .5 - .6 bar. Given that you've taken care of the fuelling... :blush:

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