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I have IS200 S can I use this cable or is different one I need.

No the S doesn't have an inbuilt amp so you don't need this lead.

You don't need to buy any lead really cause all the wires just come to the back of the standard stereo.

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Hi,

Been reading this thread with some interest after working on a IS200 today and bypassing the Amp to fit a nice new Stereo

Bit shocked at the £54.95 price the guy on ebay is charging for the bypass lead, we made up an almost identical item as a one off and if there is still enough interest in these would be able to make up some more without too much difficulty. Even in small numbers we should be able to knock them out for under £40, obviously if we could get enough orders this could be reduced further!

Sorry if I should have registered as a trader or something before making this post but just thought I would see if there is any interest for these leads.

Only major difference in the lead we can make up is that it is a one piece lead, cant see the point in having the extra connection so near the amplifier plug just likely to cause connection problems.

Cheers,

J.

@CCA

I also made my own, but i had too put the wires directly into that plug.

(Plug shown below is the one that comes out of the amp and goes too the speakers etc, and i put the wires into those slots)

DSC00268-1.jpg

Idealy what i want is a male end of that plug so i can crimp the wires into that then connect that onto the plug that goes too the speakers.

How did you overcome this problem?

As you can see below i have circled the part i need. Not being funny too Fargo or anyone else, but this really does look like a connector you would buy at Halfords etc (not that i have been able too find it at Halfords).

It looks too me like the guy had found a source of these ISO leads then just made an extension piece, which is like you said CCA 'cant see the point in having the extra connection so near the amplifier plug', why didnt he make it a one piece lead

041b_1.jpg

i would guess that the longest part of the lead is a standard off the shelf iso extension lead and the short section you circled is an off the shelf iso-->bare wire lead that the guy is then fitting the white nylon connector too.

also referring to something way back in this thread about using the 2/3 ohm speakers in my experience as a tv enginneer you are better off going over the impeadance level rather than under i.e using 8 ohm speakers on a 4ohm recommended amp would be healthier for the amp than using a 2 ohm speaker.i would connect the 2 and 3 ohm speakers in series either side to give five ohms either side.

rgds

rob

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I have IS200 S can I use this cable or is different one I need.

you would be best to PM Fargo he will know all about the cable he made. think it will be the same if its got sat nav

My bad sorry about that, shows how much i know, I still need to check on mine if i have the external amp. I am sure i have as it is a Lexus IS200SE. Just dont fancy spending that much on that cable,

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Excellent :blush: Has anyone brought and used the autolead from halfords. A part number will be appreciated.

I know Adie has send him a PM he might still have the part number

toyota iso connector (PC2-17-4) for S model :winky:

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[i would guess that the longest part of the lead is a standard off the shelf iso extension lead and the short section you circled is an off the shelf iso-->bare wire lead that the guy is then fitting the white nylon connector too.

also referring to something way back in this thread about using the 2/3 ohm speakers in my experience as a tv enginneer you are better off going over the impeadance level rather than under i.e using 8 ohm speakers on a 4ohm recommended amp would be healthier for the amp than using a 2 ohm speaker.i would connect the 2 and 3 ohm speakers in series either side to give five ohms either side.

rgds

rob

Hi, Have just read your post and would like to confirm that the lead we have made up runs the rear tweeter woofer setup in series giving 6 ohms load on each rear channel and sounding quite nice on the car we fitted it to.

Finally got a pic of the lead too see below

2e58_1_b.jpg

We have terminated the electric aerial feed in a crimp connector that plugs straight on to the original lead and although we soldered the lighting wire we used, on the leads for sale we have fitted a scotchlock onto it to be joined onto the original wiring with no cutting required.

Cheers,

J.

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[i would guess that the longest part of the lead is a standard off the shelf iso extension lead and the short section you circled is an off the shelf iso-->bare wire lead that the guy is then fitting the white nylon connector too.

also referring to something way back in this thread about using the 2/3 ohm speakers in my experience as a tv enginneer you are better off going over the impeadance level rather than under i.e using 8 ohm speakers on a 4ohm recommended amp would be healthier for the amp than using a 2 ohm speaker.i would connect the 2 and 3 ohm speakers in series either side to give five ohms either side.

rgds

rob

Hi, Have just read your post and would like to confirm that the lead we have made up runs the rear tweeter woofer setup in series giving 6 ohms load on each rear channel and sounding quite nice on the car we fitted it to.

Finally got a pic of the lead too see below

2e58_1_b.jpg

We have terminated the electric aerial feed in a crimp connector that plugs straight on to the original lead and although we soldered the lighting wire we used, on the leads for sale we have fitted a scotchlock onto it to be joined onto the original wiring with no cutting required.

Cheers,

J.

Sorry getting late, what is this cable for? is it the same one as from eBay for amp by pass or is it the S series cable?

and if it is the amp by pass one could you make them cheaper than eBay?

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CCA that looks a lot better than the one on Ebay, a nice one piece lead :)

Cheers mate,

It is the lead we have made up for the SE and sport bypass lead, it looks short in the pic but is actually about 3 foot from end to end. Plenty for a neat run from the amp to the stereo!

We have it listed on eBay now, just opened the account so no feedback and we couldn't do a buy it now or anything. If anyone wants to skip the eBay thing PM me and I will see what I can do, can also supply the fascia panels for £14 inc. VAT.

Cheers,

J.

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CCA that looks a lot better than the one on Ebay, a nice one piece lead :)

Cheers mate,

It is the lead we have made up for the SE and sport bypass lead, it looks short in the pic but is actually about 3 foot from end to end. Plenty for a neat run from the amp to the stereo!

We have it listed on eBay now, just opened the account so no feedback and we couldn't do a buy it now or anything. If anyone wants to skip the eBay thing PM me and I will see what I can do, can also supply the fascia panels for £14 inc. VAT.

Cheers,

J.

Any links 2 these 2 products??

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  • 2 months later...
£20 cheaper than mine boo... lol

hope it works as well :P

Hi

Been following this forum for a while now, i just got the dreaded err3 message on my 2000 w reg lexus se :tsktsk: , i wanted to put in a double din unit similair to:

http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/p...ts_id/4837.html

I assume i need the bypass lead to install this.

can you please advise and give me a price on the the lead and fascia

thanks

Oz :crybaby:

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erm product not found....for your head unit

you will probably need the facia kit

(I'd suggest u sand and repaint with satin black)

There is a lead on eBay so you can use the original amp

(I take it yours has one behind the glove box on the left)

The lead is about £45-60

LINK 1

LINK 2

The Autoleads Fascia FP-25-00 £20

The facia you can buy from eBay too (normally £15 plus £5 p+p)

or Halfords for £20

LINK FACIA 1

LINK FACIA 2

See my finished repainted + Modded facia HERE :winky: (single DIN)

The same paint etc can be used for the kit when you assemble

it as Double DIN

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Nice little unit that mate. As for getting to the amp, it can be really tricky. remove the glovebox and take off the 2 10mm nuts holding the amp cage it. Cut the tie wrap holding the loom to the cage, careful not to cut into the loom itself :(

Then remove the kick panel under the dash so as you can get your hand up from underneath. Childs hands come in useful here ;)

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Your connecting into the wires that come from the speakers to the amp. The lead completely diposes of the amp and headunit. Just uses the stock speakers and speaker wire.

So IRLRS200 are you still running your headunit through the stock amp? why did you have to cut the plug off?

i had my head unit installed a few months ago by a local alpine dealer who i know, and it took him 5 min to set set the head unit so it works with the sat nav. there is one wire or something in the footwell on driver side that he swapped and my sat nav was still working.

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To remove the Amplifier behind the Glovebox or unbolt to help change the lead over !

If u undo the 2 bolts holding the amp in place and cut the 2 cable ties securing the wiring loom to the amp, it gives u a bit more freedom

Have you unbolted the amp from the frame holding it in place? If you unbolt, with a bit of gentle force and movement you can just about get it away from the frame slightly and move it out towards you, then I took off the plastic door trim piece (just pops off) and then you can pull away the plastic side piece below the glove box to give yourself another way of getting your hand to the plug. Thats how I did it anyway.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All

I have had my IS200 for two months now and thinking of adding a 12 inch sub to my system. I also have been reading this for the last hour or so and found verry intresting, But I was thinking of just adding some RCAs to the existing amp as it has a low pass out put.

Has anyone tried this?

Or am I better off following the rest off you and replacing the lot?

Note that I only want to add some more base at this point in time.

P.S Its nice to know that you are all so willing to help others.

Thanks in advance :hehe:

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