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Best Products To Clean The Lex


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Advice above is good, try it and see. More important if your new beauty is black is to enure you use good sponges ( microfibre from Meguiars is good ), and then spoge applicators ( or microfibre cloths ) and then microfibre to buff up. As you no doubt know black is the most important colour to treat right :)

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Advice above is good, try it and see. More important if your new beauty is black is to enure you use good sponges ( microfibre from Meguiars is good ), and then spoge applicators ( or microfibre cloths ) and then microfibre to buff up. As you no doubt know black is the most important colour to treat right :)

The new one is blue, getting it 2 weeks today :) the black one i had was a nightmare to keep clean

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Best products to clean the Lex? Easy. I use an Iraqi with a sponge on my way home from work. Most effective, cheapest and involves very little effort apart from opening the window and paying him £3. Best thing about it, I don't have to store him anywhere.

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Zaino are good products, but still a bit more expensive than you need pay when compared to the practically identical Duragloss range.

Only for ZFX which allows for multiple layering in a day, the two are the same, but then you could polycharge or ZFX Duragloss's 111 or 105 if you didn't want to wait 24 hours for each layer to cure before the next one can go on.

Anyway, the main point I was wanting to make is that both will highlight the imperfections you may have, so you need a really well prepared surface onto which to apply.

In the absence of that and the paintwork having some imperfections, then something with fillers like Autobalm will do the job.

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Hey guys

Just wondering what products are best to use while cleaning the Lexus? I used meguiars products on the last one i had, should i just stick with them?

What products is eveyone else using?

Anna

Anna - See the previous post by Mr Stig I posted a suggested route, but if you are getting a new car you will not need to use a polish just Carlack sealent then a good wax like Victoria Conours. Having said that some of the more pofessional detailers say even a new car should be clayed before sealing, it just depends how far you want to go down the dealing route.

Merv

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been using Autoglym.

The wax is good, in that you leave it for 30~60mins before polishing off, so there's no rush. But I wash the car once a month and it seems to need re-applying the wax each time to get water beading.

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I've used various things, but now based on advice on here, I've got Autoglym Super Resin Polish to work out the swirls by hand, then Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection, and Collinite 476 wax to go on top.

Only problem is I haven't used any of it yet, but I'm sure it'll work well once I get round to it! :lol:

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I've been using autoglym.

The wax is good, in that you leave it for 30~60mins before polishing off, so there's no rush. But I wash the car once a month and it seems to need re-applying the wax each time to get water beading.

Water beading is merely a function of surface tension rather than an absolute indication of any LSP being there or not.

Irrespective, monthly reapplying is better than winging it to see if you can do it once every other month.

But it's also worth remembering to remove all the wax 3-4 times a year anyhow, since carnauba degrades due to sun's rays, airborne contamination, bird bombs, industrial fallout, etc, etc.

So aged wax needs removed rather than continually layered upon.

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Emulsion or gloss?

If the former - scrape/pick off, then warm water and damp cloth.

If the latter, then you'll have to use isopropyl alcohol (IPA), and wash the area when done with a mild pH neutral soap (Dove, etc or car shampoo) to break down any residue left. Don't soak, use the suds, then dry and leave to for an hour or two before applying a conditioner.

One thing to do though first, is check the IPA on an inconspicuous area first to see if it has any adverse effect.

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