dangerous brain

For anyone reading this thread with a similar interest in sat nav I too would recommend tom tom. I have it on my PDA orange phone and my PDA and also on my spare nokia phone. I have used "other" sat nav systems and have been let down by them at crucial times like when maps aren't as new as they should be or the system getting lost just before the only turning in miles etc. I personally don't trust any so called speed detector system and prefer to rely on my own wits or the age old guaranteed method of not speeding :D so speed camera placements aren't that big an issue for me but the updated files with these and many other POI's are readily available for free on the net if you looksee about.

Been around a while now but haven't really popped into the lounge much. Thought I would have a look about. Reminds me of the lounge in the MK4 supra board I used to frequent but 5 years ago before the chav element started to make it like it is now. Anyways I expect I'll be posting in here a fair bit from now on. To start with I'll mention my latest purchase, One mini moto 1/3 sized chopper motorbike. It appeals to the latent bad/boy middle age crisis looming inside me but without the need to actually do anything about it as they aren't street legal. I will post up some picture of it tomorrow as I know threads are useless without pics :)

This sounds just like the device that gives you 10% better fuel economy (its basically something for an NA motor that lets more air in after the maf sensor so you run the car lean) except this fools the ECU to run richer instead. You want 35 bhp more buy an aristo :D

They need cooking, splitting and polishing inside just like the J-spec supra ones do when they look tired. I might just buy a new set from Japan if I can't get GS ones to fit.

Are the mk1 GS300 lights glass like the UK spec supra lights? If yes are they a straight swap into a mk1 aristo? The ones on my prospective purchase are looking a little tired.

Nice find. Sums the car up a treat :D

I've had some stuff done by triton motorsports at hurn airport in Bournemouth and I have had nothing to complain about. They seemed honest and more than capable. There are a lot of scoobies running around town with their window stickers on so I am guessing that they feel the same way. I guess it all depends on what you want done really.

A 1 bar restrictor ring will bring your boost back down to close to stock. Turbo's will spool a bit slower though.

Old news mate the other supes gone. I am heading back to the aristo club now, the one in the thread that dissapeared overnight???? Thinking about it actually you could limit the boost over the winter by fitting a smaller restrictor ring in the exhaust?

Well if the NA version of the supra is anything to go by you actually get better fuel economy from the TT version than the NA version if you are driving light footed. After all turbo's were actually invented for fuel economy.

My guess is a loose clamp on your induction pipework somewhere that will act normally under lower boost and be forced open under higher boost. Might also be split in a hose that only opens under full boost. Take a good look at all your inuction pipework from the turbo's to the SMIC and then from the SMIC onto the inlet manifold.

I can get you the number for a toyota guy that will do you the best price in the land for mk4 supra brakes. IMHO this is the very best VFM mod you will ever do. Upratig to 4 pots on the front and 2 pots on the back will skin you for £1200 but look at brembo stuff and that'll cost you the same just for the front. Being able to stop is a bit more important to me than being able to go.

:winky: I take it you know a man that can do this??? Ask M666 summat or other if this is a mod worth the money. I had his car before he did (I sort of imported it) and its a stunner to drive. Its not all that expensive a mod to do these days either as gearboxs and indeed full crashed supras become more widely available. Theres a market here for the right entrepenuering trader.

Find the voltage feed to the LED and clip that? Or just straight find the beeper speaker and tap it with a hammer :)

Easy fix for all of this------ Manual conversion and supra manual ECU :D

Not with the VVTI cars........... :winky: The thor unit doesn't work with the Mk2's? Actually thinking about it I remember reading that the ECU on the mk2 is a bit of a bugger for delimiting.

Remove the bulb from the reverse indicator in the dash. That should stop the annoying bleep in reverse.

I know where there is a 600 bhp single turbo one in the just over £10k braket :D

LOL people will will pay out thousands for go faster mods but balk at paying half the money to stop the car :D Stopping any car is as important as making it go faster. My rangey is a bugger to stop and subsequently despite its huge V8 motor has to be driven slowly on any road with bends or the possibility of unexpected events ie non-motorway.

Lol its usually petes own box that gets all the raves :D Its actually a very easy mod to do yourself :)

UK spec supra brakes are probably the cheapest upgrade on the brake front. Gaz sorted out some brakes from a bigger lexus that worked out lighter and cheaper but that was for the mk2 I beleive. As for performance mods looking at the mk4 supra sites will give you a damn good idea of what is available and at what price. BPU is your first port of call Remove the cats £200 ish to £300 to free up the exhaust. Replace the exhaust with a freer flowing one (£300-1000 in the supra world maybe a bit more on an aristo) Don't forget your restrictor ring £20 Replace the plugs with colder plugs £100 ish Fuel cut defencer £100 ish That puts you in the 400bhp area. If your SMIC is tired you may want to look at replacing that at this point with an uprated SMIC or an FMIC £400-£700 Now you can start looking at water injection £350-600 Cams £275-350 each Fuel wise its very wise to swap your fuel pump for a second hand mk4 supra tt UK pump or a walbro one £50-120 Now you get into contentious mods like FPR's, FSE's, nitrous, aftermarket induction kits, etc Now it starts to get expensive Replacement ECU's or piggy back units with associatted tuning Single turbos Bigger injectors built auto box's and or replacement manual box's higher spec fuel system decent traction control wider wheels on the back to put the power down full replacement suspension to get round corners replacement uprated discs and pads for the UK spec supra brakes or 6 pot aftermarket brakes trick gauges to monitor whats going on with all your system now you've upgraded it. Thats just a small guide

I know how it feels to be ****** off with a particular car. Especially if its your only way of getting to work (one of the reasons I have always had at least one spare car for over 5 years now). A mate of mine recently had a tyre problem with judder just like you describe. He put new tyres on and it was still the same. Transpires it was still the tyres. Not sure where his tyres came from or yours either. What I would do if I was you. Find someone that will swap you a known good set of wheels and take your car for a drive. If that produces the same symptoms you can rule out the wheels. Then look at the brake calipers http://www.brakesint.co.uk/ These people do very good prices on calipers. My bet is on a sticky caliper here. I'll tell you why. WHen you brake a fair amount of heat is generated. If you brake heavily and then at the end of the braking run hold the brake pedal down what will happen is this: the heat you just put into the disc will start to rapidly dissapate, the area where the brake pads are still in contact with the disc is insulated from the cooling air and will not cool as fast as the rest of the disc. Brake discs are only made from cheap cast iron and the disc will micromecally distort around the hot/cooler area. Do this enough and the disc will warp causing wheel wobble. Stock supra J-spec brakes are notorius for this. Now I am not saying you do this kind of braking but a sticky caliper is going to cause the same problem. Couple that to the fact that you feel like you are losing performance and I'd be tempted to go out on a limb and say you have at least one dodgy caliper.

Thats not it dude, same colour, looks like the same wheels but that car has a sunroof and a stick onto the stock bumper lip. My ex car has an original Kazz sports front bumper that is filled with a mighty big FMIC. Mine was also a tad lower :D

Well I've owned both supra and aristo, NA supe and seriously BPU'd TT supe, and a manual 6 speed converted TT aristo. Looking at weights yeah maybe the one or two models of supras weigh in at 1510 kgs but most hit 1600+ . The Non leather aristo's of 93-95 era aren't actually that much heavier so really if it came down to a straight up motorway drag out, there'd be pretty much cack all in it. The place a supe will get an aristo is in twisty bits, but my whole philosophy on this is lets fill each car with 5 large humans and then head on out with loading and unloading times being taken into account and time being deducted for vehicle occupant dishelvment post run. Each car is horse for course. But seriously either car is a top buy. You want a GT car that blasts most rich motors on the road and only need 2 seats and no luggage room then get a supra as nothing does its thing as well as it. If you want an M5 beating (reliability, and speed) machine that fits 5 adults with more legroom than an M5 and can on the straights hold its own against most sports GT's then get an aristo TT.

Its spanking an M5's ***** you want to aim at :D