steve2006

The sensor is located on a bracket to the right and slightly up from the crank pulley ( 1 o’clock position) it is secured with a single bolt. 2nd picture shows position albeit on a dismantled engine. The 3 codes you have include a possible defective CPS if you look at the service and diagnostic sheets in the video.

From previous experience and a lot of reading the favourite cause of the engine failing to start when warm or cutting out when warm as in your case (thermal) would point towards a defective crankshaft sensor. Without this component working correctly the engine ECU has no reference to engine timing so doesn’t know which spark plug to fire and shuts down the fuel injectors. The only sure way of accurate diagnosis is to read the live data looking at the CPS output waveform and looking for any anomalies when the engine gets warm. Another way is to cool down the CPS with some freezer spray when the fault happens and then see if the engine starts confirming it is thermally related. I did find this video which gives the same codes and symptoms you have and mentions the CPS as one of the possible causes, some of the reasons like the fuel filter can be eliminated as the cause as this if clogged would prevent starting also when the engine is cold, it’s heat sensitive components you need to look at more closely like the CPS.

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Wow that’s a very early series IV with the VVTI engine, very rare nowadays, I expected seeing a series III being a 1997 model. Shopping at Waitrose also adds value 😀

Thanks Michael that’s cleared up the mystery 😀 but raises another question in another post, is the garage you recommended the one that let you down? Also could you post up some pictures, I for one would like to see your car?

Hi Sullivan and welcome to the LOC. Generally there is no easy or cheap way to sort these JDM issues out as Japanese standards are completely different to UK ones and dealers tend to shy away from any import versions. Even if you managed to buy all the infotainment system components from a UK spec car they may still not work because of other differences, the Japanese ETC toll road components for example. It may be better to replace the system completely with an android based unit which are available for your model and would certainly work out cheaper with more features like Apple car play. I did find this software update link but apparently it is for the USA not the UK but even that usually doesn’t change the language from Japanese. https://www.lexus.com/firmware-updates/updates I own a 2004 Toyota Celsior ( Lexus LS430) with only one FM radio station due to Japanese and UK standards, a sat nav for Tokyo and a very calming Japanese talking lady who makes occasional announcements over the sound system regarding my Electronic Toll Card. Welcome to the quirks and anomalies of JDM ownership.

From your post back in March 2023 Michael you posted that the engine had failed with a suspected broken camshaft, there were no further updates or responses to questions posed so I’m curious how this all turned out?

Hi James and welcome to the LOC. Being a new member you may not be aware of the club rules for selling (link below), the only thing really missing and probably the most important is the asking price and perhaps a few more pictures. Could you amend your post to show this please? Regards, Steve

What did you get as a company car? Do you not now pay income tax based on the value of the company car which is why having your own car and getting a mileage allowance is more cost effective?

Any pictures Amer?

Probably instant if you buy a new battery off them, 28 days if you decline 😀

Has the “parasitic current” drain been checked I.e. what amperage the battery is using when the car is “asleep” Does it have an aftermarket immobiliser or other non OEM device fitted? The AA normally connect some computerised gubbins to the battery on arrival to check its charge level and voltage, could they not perhaps provide you with a printout, report or even just the figures to show your dealer?

Funny quirk with importing a car from Japan. If you go and live there for at least a year, buy a car there and own it for at least six months then return to the UK with it you don’t have to pay any import duty and VAT. So what you need is a mate who is going to work there for a year, get him or her to buy a nice ISF, bring it back with them and then sell it to you 😀

Just seen this 😀 Just make sure that whoever fits the rear fog lights integrates them into the rear clusters and doesn’t fit a stand alone universal on the rear bumper which seems to be the norm with JDM people carrier imports!

Hi Claudio and welcome to the LOC. Have you checked fuse # 7 in the engine bay fuse box as it seems to effect most of the items you mention? https://fuse-box.info/lexus/lexus-is200d-is220d-is250d-xu20-2010-2013-fuses

Hi Stephen and welcome to the LOC. No programming required just plug and play, try and make sure the mirror glass is more or less centred in the up/down and left/right positions after fitting to ensure easy initial remote adjustment.

My wife was upset when I bought myself a new iPad, to make amends I bought her an iRon.

I sold my Dyson vacuum a few months ago due to lack of use, it was just stuck in the cupboard gathering dust. 😀

Re vacuum cleaners did all that power limitation stuff actually kick in meaning the end of 2000w super suction models?

Mine may be Toyota badged but with just 80,000 miles and having paid less than a quarter of the price of this one including the suspension conversion, factory stainless steel exhaust and lots of other JDM extras I’m very happy. Almost a copy cat with the dark alloys and same colour although I think it is Dark Blue Mica 8P8 not Canterbury Blue as suggested.

This may help although you cannot expand the image external of this post. Cables circled.

As Colin suggests I totally agree, the toothed rings on the hub or “Reluctor rings” to give them the correct name have been known to crack due to age and exposure to the elements or a build up of rust and crud between the teeth which then leads to error codes due to a change in the critical air gap between the ring and ABS pick up coil. Again as Colin advises remove the ABS sensor and using a torch look down the hole looking for crud and damage whilst slowing turning the hub. Also if you have a multimeter measure the resistance of the sensor, if it reads open circuit it’s duff. The reluctor rings are generally available to buy as a separate item just google “Lexus Reluctor rings”

Hello Paul and welcome to the LOC. Have you checked the battery voltage since the work was carried out, firstly the “standing voltage” when the engine and ignition are both off, then with the engine running at idle and finally with the engine RPM between 1500-2000? Car alternators produce 3 phase sinusoidal AC which is then rectified by 3 sets of half wave rectifiers ( 1 set per phase) to produce the DC supply required. After rectification a small amount of the AC component known as ripple is still present but tends to be “smoothed” out by the battery capacitance ( this is the ~~~~ Lexus mentioned to you) The DC output is then regulated by regulator to ensure the output voltage is within tolerances to prevent over or under voltage dependant on the electrical demand of the car and prevent damage to the battery through over charging. The regulator works by rapidly switching the DC output on and off via an electronic circuit. Given that by connecting an additional battery ( effectively increasing the load on the alternator) the voltage stabilises and the strange waveform looking like a square wave I would agree the alternator particularly the internal voltage regulator is faulty. If you could post up those voltages it would help me further to help you.

Yes, I also watched that video, very informative as usual especially as you mention there are KYB parts and Lexus KYB parts.

No problem, pleased to help 😀 When ECUs go faulty they have been known to stop communicating on the CanBus and the diagnostics port so basically stop talking to code readers also. Please keep us updated as to the diagnosis and cause. P.S. What initially made you go towards the EVAP system as being the cause?