lexicon

Proper spacers bolt to the hub studs and have their own studs that the wheel then bolts to, so you're not limited by the stud length. Easier with a picture; spacers on ebay

The only other thing I can think of is auto-dimming mirrors.

I once did 72 miles with the fuel light on in my manual IS200. It was the most nerve-wracking journey I've ever done :) Almost all motorway and I didn't venture over 60. It took 68litres when I filled up.

When I collected my new IS200SE in 2001, the sales guy who did the handover told me a right load of tosh but the best was; "yeah, sixth gear is a lower ratio than fifth, for overtaking" - riiiiight Recently I had a 250 loaner while the 300 was in for service and was advised that it would "handle a lot better than the previous shape due to it having double wishbones at the front" - I didn't bother to ask what layout he thought the old one was.

I recently had a similar problem (took the dealer 3 attempts to fix). You should be able to tell if it's working or not; Switch the headlights on (if they're not already in auto) and then turn on the ignition - you should see the beams move up and down and then settle roughly in the middle. When driving the beams level all the time, so to see if they're working, brake sharply to make the car dip while watching the beam reflected off something - you should be able to see it "step" up and down as the car dips and settles. It's easy to do this as you stop behing a car at traffic lights, just brake sharply as you come to a halt (assuming no-one close behind of course). The chances are though that if the warning light has been on, then there is a problem with one of the suspension sensors - mine was intermittent and they would tend not to level at all if it was dry, but go barmy in the rain (stopped in traffic you could see the beams twitching up and down all the time), so I assume it was just a bad connection somewhere. In theory the dealer can read the ecu fault code to determine what the problem is, but this didn't work for me (hence 3 trips to the garage).

That does seem steep for the 30k - I paid about £160 IIRC. Not sure though if it makes a difference being 3 yrs (as I do 2k/month) - maybe brake fluid change or something?

So would that mean there's no benefit to using optimax and the like? I used NUL and OB which, in theory at any rate, should be similar to using SUL.

Having run a couple of different brands of OB in the 200 & 300 I'd say that (other than subjectively running smoother) they made no difference at all. The "smoother" running may have been due purely to the ECU reset I did. Of course, this is on unmodded motors - there may be benefits on anything that really requires higher octane fuel.

Very nice - like it a lot, not jealous though (OK, maybe a little ;) )

If it's set up right the handling will be fine, the wear will be fine - this idea that it's "normal" to scrub the shoulders off in a few thousand miles so that it will "handle" is a load of old cobblers. I had my geo done at Drury Lane and not only does it wear evenly, but it handles better than before too.

It's the environmentalist in me :D I do 90% motorway commute so it's not too bad - by comparison I used to get 430-450 out of the 200. One other thing, the 300 is better in snow (well, better than a manual 200 anyway).

This is gonna seem obvious, but the main benefit is the extra grunt - even with the auto sapping a chunk of the power, it's significantly quicker than the 200. I love it because it's just so easy to drive, really effortless. Also the HIDs are good (when the self-levelling is working ) The other bits & bobs are nice, but don't make that much difference (to me anyway). I can't say that I noticed any difference (comfort-wise) in the seats - it's the same seat underneath (I assume) so what it's covered in doesn't make a huge difference. Fuel consumption is a bit higher, but only about 10% - although if you do a lot of urban, or nail it all the time, you will pay through the nozzle. I get 380-400 out of a tank (usually 65litres) - that's mostly m-way. Haven't driven a 250 auto yet but the manual I would say was on-a-par performance wise, probably slower off the mark but quicker top-end. I wouldn't say it was a big enough difference to be a clincher either way. If you like auto's then the 300 is a great car.

It's nothing new I'm afraid - my dealers particular "cure-all" for creaks in my last IS was silicone grease spray. This included the seats, and yes, they got it on the leather IMHO the Lexus "dealer experience" had more to do with the fact that they generally didn't have to do much apart from provide a nice environment and some coffee. If there was an actual problem (i.e. one that requires mechanical expertise) they're no better than any other as far as I can tell.

The most likely is probably the temperature sender (or the connection to it) and then the gauge itself. First though, I would check the coolant level. It's possible that the level is lower than the sender and it's not measuring anything - I nearly killed a mondeo engine because of this once!

Yes you can - I have 225/45/17 on mine. I'd stick to the 45s - the difference in rolling radius between 215 and 225 is tiny. For speed rating I think you should stick to manufacturers recommended fitment (for insurance purposes).

I had my IS300 in for it's 40k service today which was a bit of a sting at £730 (new disks & pads req'd). Anyways, they gave me a black IS250 - base model (and a manual - what the hell's that other pedal for?) Very nice to look at, although the 16" wheels don't fill the arches much. Interior is in a different league to the old car. I particularly like the instruments - very classy. Room in the back is better I think, although the front of the cabin is rather too cosy - the big swooping A-pillars and short glass make it feel a little claustrophobic. I can see why they put those HUGE door mirrors on - visibility everywhere else is not fantastic. I was a bit disappointed with the boot. The opening is wider and the hinges don't intrude the same as the old one, but it is short on depth and the wheel arches rob a lot of space. Keyless entry and push start are nice features. The engine is very quiet and smooth, as is the ride. Even on the "small" tyres it has plenty of grip. I didn't find the steering over-sensitive and the seats are very good, much better than the previous IS. So all in all a very nice drive. Performance seemed about on a par with my 300 - I would like to try an auto though (might try and get one when mine goes back in for it's faulty headlamp leveller). Interestingly, I noticed an occasional quiet rattle from the dash and a bit of wind rustle from the top of the drivers door at speed - I know these have cropped up for several new owners. Overall, I was impressed - I soon got used to the cosy cabin. The only thing that would put me off really is the boot size.

I sympathise with your position and you have been unlucky with the seatbelt, but I don't think that "a rattle" is really grounds to reject the car (as unfit for purpose or whatever). I would take the loan car, let them fix yours and accept the service plan. While it is an inauspicious start to new car ownership, isn't stating "mental trauma" just a bit OTT?

I've had a set on for just about 12 months and they are starting to "go off" now (getting streaky). Until just recently though, they have been brilliant.

I was wondering if I was the only one that thought £3k was a lot of cash for what you get. When I got my IS200 in 2001 the SE was only an extra £1500 and you got the sunroof, extra speakers etc as well.

Unless the LS is unusual, the wear indicator is embedded in the pad, so new pads=new wear indicators. Joining/splicing is usually to cancel the warning light when using pads that don't have the wear indicator connection.

I don't really see much point in that "snow" button either. I've tried using it on icy roads and it doesn't seem to make alot of difference. I have noticed how it reduces the throttle response, but don't find it much use. It still doesn't help my car out of the slopy drive in the snow !! ← That's because all it does is reduce throttle response - it doesn't magically produce traction. If you want to drive in ice and snow the only answer is winter tyres I'm afraid. I find the combination of T/C and auto-box (can't stall) with winters is not bad at all.

Try this; Drive at a constant speed, preferably on the flat. Switch on snow-mode and don't adjust your throttle position - the car will slow down. Turn it off, and you will speed up again. All it does is affect the ratio of "pedal position" to "throttle opening" which makes it easier to drive smoothly in order to reduce wheelspin.

I often hear a quiet buzzing noise that seems to come from the back when turning out of junctions etc. It's definitely not the same as the ABS motor/pump that happens when things get really tricky. I don't remember it on the 200, so maybe it's to do with the VSC side. The light doesn't always flash when it happens either. I've been curious about it since I got the 300.

Our head office is about 200yds from the Buncefield depot, or I should say, it was. The building is destroyed and we are in turmoil today. I'm 200 miles away, but we are doing all possible to keep everything together - this could easily take the company down for good. Luckily those in the building at the time (24 hr operation) were not hurt, just shaken having been blown across the room. It's amazing how few casualties there have been - thank *** it didn't happen in the middle of a work day.

Yeah, but for every guy that won't buy one (which includes me as there's no auto) there will be queue of those that will. See BMW 320D for details.