SteveLS400

Bet you are - well done!

Hi again Lets look at this carefully. I still find it incredulous that the gearbox just died. This is not a known fault and the car has been around long enough for such a problem to have been flagged-up on here. You must be feeling very despondent but I feel sure that the car can be back as good as new fairly soon. I do wonder about your Lexus dealer. The solenoid replacement clearly didn’t cure the problem it was supposed to cure. So I am already concerned about their skills but I accept that you have not got the knowledge to challenge their comments. The problem returns but they say its “perfect.” On test, the mechanic diagnosed a wheel bearing. If it was making such a noise that you thought the exhaust was blowing, I’m amazed they didn’t insist on it not been driven. The plot really thickens when they “test drive” it again. It should have been straight on the ramp. I hope I’m wrong, but it looks to me as if they are trying to drum up work and the gearbox is the pinnacle. So you still have the engine management light issue, the noise/wheel bearing issue and now the gearbox. Have you personally tried to drive the car? If not make an attempt in the dealer’s yard. Try the selector in all positions. If it will drive get it away from them and tackle the issues in the order of gearbox, bearing and engine management light. Assuming that the gearbox does need replacing then there are plenty of honest people out there who will supply the correct part. I Googled “gearbox for ls430” and got plenty of useful links. Before you do this though, you need to find a local-ish specialist in automatics and let him tell you what the crack really is. You also need to deal with the supplier of the wrong box but let the specialist look at yours 1st. You can then get the right box or your money back. Just a point regarding second hand parts. The breaker is not concerned with mileage – he is breaking it. He cannot tell you if the mileage – assuming he can power-up the dash – is genuine; simply putting the wrong size tyres on a car will throw the mileage out. I would also make a formal complaint to the Lexus dealer. Stick to the facts – avoid mentioning that they are drumming up business. Why did they diagnose a new solenoid when it didn’t solve the problem etc and focus on the fact that they had the car for a wheel bearing change and instead rendered the car unusable without doing the work that you had authorised. Theres are lot going on here but work through it carefully.

Try this http://bahamutcars.free.fr/workshop/LS_01-06/contents/index.html

Thanks Nitmoi. By all means let me have more details of your cheap 96/7, and what work it needs. A friend has suggested that as I haven't had a Lexus before I should begin with an older one and see how it goes before perhaps getting a newer one in a year or two. I'm open to this idea - unless other members think I should buy as new as possible. Presumably any Mk.IV will have a few problems to be sorted? Hi and welcome As Nitmoi suggests, there is a ton of stuff on here, just use the search facility - give your self plenty of time and enjoy. Most would say that there MK (I,II,III, IV) was best. As you will see from the search results the MKIII is probably the most economical and has less dash board issues than earlier versions and doesnt have the satnav issues of the MKIV. It is widely suggested that cambelts are now good for 100000 miles but is a costly item due to time. Also costly for the same reason is the starter motor as its located in the V of the engine meaning time to strip down just to get at it. The other things that may be an issue are leaking power steering reservoir, front upper control arms on the suspension (safe but can clonk - mine does in hot weather), heated front seat elements (go on most vehicles as they are like electric blanket elements). The only extravagance I went to was to have the automatic climate control/aircon completely overhauled but in the main regular gasing per any aircon is suffient. In the main these cars are superb and significantly better than competitors of a similar age. Parts aren't horrendous although main dealer prices and servicing often is. I test drove mine 3 times including one session where I had the windows down to listen for anything untoward; nothing. At 190k miles I recon she's just run in. I love my car. Hope you are successful in your search. Make sure you get at least 1 master key and a fob that works the security and central locking, preferably 2 of each. It may also come with a valet key but that won't open the boot etc. Below the steering wheel is a button and a key slot, if the seller won't let you press the button in, then you don't have a master key.

Hi In short, no. Thats why I asked what the symptoms are. I can't imagine its dead unless seriously mistreated or sabotaged. I also think that with a description of what happened/is happening, we may be able to provide suitable advice. I am also interested in the comment "the car lost its drive when their mechanic test drove it." Why was he testing it? If it were mine the dealer would be fixing it.

What are the exact symtoms?

Certainly are!

Once you've checked the sub amplifier, I would remove the speaker and take it along to your local car audio centre. They will be able to match a suitable alternative. Providing the new unit is clear for depth and diameter, you should be able to fit it even if you need a bit of mecano or the likes to hold it firm. This has the advantage of you knowing that you are using a new unit.

I think you are doing a fine job so no worries. If you can let me have a link to or a copy of what you are are looking at, that will be mega. I cant see how to remove the switch or know what the sensors look like/their location.

I can't see how to take the switch apart any guidance much appreciated. When the key is removed it tilts back so far. Once in a while it tilts all the way. Similarly, when the key is inserted it tilts down some distance - but not always the same amount - and sometimes comes out nearly all its distance.

Chris, thanks for your response. If you hold the stick it may move a little and then stop, if you release it and statr again it may move a little, or a lot or anything in between. Thinking it through (son has the car today)I would say it takes 3 or 4 attempts to get the column set. The worm wheel and gear appear to operate very well. I even tried to squirt inside the joystick with WD40, thinking it might be an issue. It didn't improve it and I have no way of knowing if the oil actually got inside. I have to say my gut instinct is that the problem is electrical; but all the wiring appeared to be as new as far as could be seen with the lower cowling removed.

That would be nearly as good as :tsktsk:

What a negative post!! I have had little problems getting parts for my Mk4, and worst case scenario is that you have to buy from Lexus if all else fails which means you have the peace of mind that you are buying quality parts that will last. Exhaust is stainless steel which means it should last forever, you may at some point need to weld the flanges at the join from the cats to the rest of the system. Not a hard job to do and reasonably inexpensive. All BIG cars suffer from suspension noises after a while, unfortunately that is the laws of physics, big heavy objects create stress on moving parts. It is certainly no indication that a car has been neglected!! If you are prepared to get your hands dirty it really isn't rocket science to sort yourself relatively cheaply and suspension parts are widely available as stated above. You say the cambelt has been changed which in my opinion would indicate the previous owner certainly spent money when neccessary and had longevity in mind. As for fuel consumption. mine averages 25mpg around town and 35mpg on the motorway at 80+ miles an hour. And I guess you wouldn't have bought a 4 litre car if you were too worried about fuel consumption. Fortunately most of the members on here are ready to help if you have any problems rather than being as pessimistic as 'celssior' (spelt wrongly)! I guess 'celssior' has never owned an LS judging by his very inaccurate claims. Enjoy your new purchase and welcome to LOC. Our "friend" celssior joined last month, posted maybe 18 comments in an hour and a half and then left, only to reappear here! I would ignore any comments as they appear to be malicious to me. Normls400 will be fine with his new baby.

thanks steve if its hard to do is it hard to find Hi again There has been threads on here regarding the EGR pipe. Have a search and see how you get on.

Most interesting. I finally got round to attacking mine today. My problem is the failure to auto tilt away and back again, I don't have an issue with noise nor with the telescopic function. Anyway, stripped it down per the tutorial and experimented with various washes/thicknesses etc. The problem remains. It is as if power is not getting through all the time. Moving the joystick starts the tilt, then it stops whilst still holding the stick up or down. Let go and attempt again and so on. Has anyone had this more precise problem? And cured it?

Hi Peter, as david says, our fellow member Benfur is a useful source and 1st point of call. You can also try http://www.247spares.co.uk/?home=3

My reply to the question you posted in the engine sub-forum http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=68268

Hi Jason Try using the search facilities 1st. There is a load of stuff about keys, fobs and the likes. Hopefully this will provide the answer but it will certainly broaden your knowledge. In the meantime, someone with a 430 may well have had the same problem and post a reply here.

Hi guys and thanks for your comments. At the moment, I've only had the one incidence, which corrected itself. No doubt its a sign of things to come. Steve, thanks for the link. The tutorial included in post #59 for removal of the instrument cluster, I have seen before. It prompts the question regarding how to remove of the MKIII cluster? It doesn't have the screws on the underside of the top lip or any other visible (to me) screws. I keep threatening to replace the blown bulb in "D" but dont want to break the trim in the process.

Hi Bob and welcome. Have you tried searching this forum? Bottom left of this page. Look carefully at the results as the contents may include links to tutorials and to members who don't make regular postings.

Hi Guys For the 1st time, the speedometer did not move until she was doing inexcess of 20mph. I have searched and found a similar post from 4 years ago which was unanswered. Has anyone else encountered this issue? What was the outcome?

Hi. You didn't say if you kept the old pins and whether you refitted them. More hassle I know and I can feel your frustration.

Here you would pay £45 - £80 depending upon whether you use the services of a group like Kwikfit who charge less to get you in the door (to tempt you with other services) and used gas, or a specialist who uses virgin gas.

As with any used car (and some new one's for that matter), you will be very lucky to obtain a perfect example, with full service history, a new cambelt and starter motor, with all electrics fully working, a fully serviced air-con system. Due to the age of the vehicle, there are bound to be a few issues. A properly serviced engine in these is fairly bullet-proof but if you cannot pin-down the last cambelt change then you will have a significant cost - £500 in my case - for peace of mind. So you wouldn't want to be paying more than a grand.

Hi Did it work under test before fitting? Has it got a good earth? Were you not abe to connect into the old aerial wiring. I wouldn't say your actions are silly; many years ago I arrived at my mate's just in time to see him put the drill straight down the side of his new wing due to no masking tape. Now that WAS silly!