SteveLS400

Hi John As you will see from previous posts on this subject, it is not absolutely necessary to have a cooler and you are pulling well below max weight. Travelling along at 60 or 70 mph is fine BUT the issue is what about stop start traffic in high temps up hill? Breaking down is bad enough but a replacement box is another matter. Thats why I would always recommend fitting a cooler. Cant help with the fitting query, I bought my car because it was already equipped; it took me a long time to find it.

Hi again Having owned it for such a long time tells its own story; you obviously do know how it should feel. Did you check out the parking brake issue I mentioned before? It would be beneficial to check the parking brake operation and particularly the release/cable/shoes before any other braking aspect. The steering could be the PAS pump or the rotary valve. The relief valve in the pump may have seized meaning that the high pressure needed when turning at low speeds is still operating at high speed/revs. This would give the light feeling you described. The rotary valve senses the force on the steering wheel. When the steering wheel is not being turned, both hydraulic lines provide the same amount of pressure to the steering gear. But if the spool valve is turned one way or the other, ports open up to provide high-pressure fluid to the appropriate line. It follows that if there is a fault, high pressure fluid could be leaking through causing the wheel to turn away from dead ahead. If you are satisfied that the steering geometry is perfect then it will be worth while looking at the PAS.

Hi and welcome. It may get a better response if you post your query in the sub forum covering your model. Dont click on the New members Area, just scroll down.

Hi and welcome. You will probably be better posting this in the sub forum that covers the GS300. By way of example, I post regularly on the LS400 sub forum but look in here once in a blue moon.

Excellant post panopticon, welcome to this wonderful club and resource.

Mine is removable from the bracket but I feel naked without it. Many years ago my then g/f was rammed up the :tsktsk: which completely wrecked the other car, but the towing bracket saved ours and we ran it for a couple more years. It also stops damage from those who are unable to drive; just look at the knocks dished out in carparks! I've seen my car hit 3 or 4 times but I love it when they stick the tow ball

If you need to remove the headlight then yes, otherwise whilst its fiddly, it doesn't warrant the extra work.

Hi With regard to not stopping in a straight line, take it back as you've paid for the brakes to work perfectly and they don't. If this is not an option, check the parking brake isn't binding as well as the pads. The parking brake shoes can brake down over time. When you engage drive, the rear sinks rather than the front rising. The problem could easily be rear springs and/or shocks. Have a look to see if any of the springs/shocks have been replaced as it is possible that the opposite one is ready to go. With regard to the steering issue. It almost certainly a geometry issue irrespective of what they say. Have they done a full computerised check? have they disturbed the rear suspension because this will have a dramatic effect on the streering. Are you using original wheels or aftermarket replacements? If the latter, this can cause the symtoms you describe even if the geometry (front and rear) is correct. Also an issue are tyres if they are not correctly matched and free of defects.

I started a thread a few months ago about ride height. Maybe March time, either scroll back or do a search. There were a few replies about the height. I think the longer you have a car, the more you notice the little sounds.

MKIII are the same as early MR2's so no problem. Go for them.

My clear lights came with a bulb and holder and the links to both sets that dale provided in his opening post, both showed a bulb in the relevant place.

I can only comment. Their are plenty of aftermarket sensors and I would be surprised if you couldn't get a full set for the cost of the one. However, I have no idea if one of these could be used as a direct replacement although I suspect they could. You will probably have to expose the offending sensor to view its wiring - take some pics - and then search for alternatives. Sorry can't be specific.

Hi The main difference is that the outer part, which is a blank reflector on yours, has a bulb and connector. There is no wiring for this extra bulb on the car, so I cut into the cabling for the inner part and wired the new outer part to it. Its rather like carrying out a gynacological operation as the gap in the bumbper is rather small. The new inner and outer parts are a direct replacement in all other respects. You have to ease out the outer to reveal the screw for the inner. Be prepared to have to drill the screw out. I had to replace the screws with bolts and washers; this is fiddly because of the limited room to get your hand to the nut/washer. When you come to fit the new outer, it is a very tight fit so check the lights all work to avoid having to prise it out again. Not a long job, just fiddly.

Hi I have the super clear ones. The frosted one's weren't available when I was searching earlier in the year. I am very happy with mine and can recommend them. I have to say I haven't seen any frosted ones on a car. Suggests a degree of exclusivity so I would probably go for them, if I were you, on that basis alone.

You would think so wouldn't you. My guy, who is fully trained and did check for leaks first, told me only a couple of months ago that whilst he could be seriously penalised for getting it wrong, there was still nothing concrete to prevent anyone from acting as an "expert" provided they could get their hands on the gas. It is still possible to buy the do-it-yourself kits!

Hi The front one is the condensor but you will have to remove the whole assembly. The following 2 links touch on rad removal which may help http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/JHoop/2008-01-31_221733_1994_Lexus_LS_400_V8-4_Removal.pdf Neither are particularly descriptive but I would use them if I were doing the job and in the absense of any other comments. Hope there is something useful for you. Let us know how it goes please.

Hi Frank I can't see how the loss of power is down to haveing the wheels balanced. Before taking any other action, I would advise spending time searching this forum. Start with "loss of power" and expand the terms until you have a good range of comments.

Hi Wessel There have been other threads on this subject so please have a search. There are firms who will make a towing bracket for you so it may be worth Googling for them. You will most likely have to follow up with a phone call and a visit. Towing brackets on the LS400 a rare; I havent seen another on any cars on fleabay. I was considering upgrading to a MKIV and the 2 things that my car has that I really wanted was a towing bracket and parking sensors but zip in a year or so of looking. If you find a firm to make one and they want a pattern, I will take photos of mine.

Well, after worrying about it all night (as you can imagine), I got out there first thing this morning and had a good look at it. It does indeed seem that somebody's hit an object in the road or something, resulting in a slight backwards bend to the lower suspension arm. (I still have my old car, so a comparison was easy). My real concern was whether there was any chassis damage, but as far as I can see that doesn't seem to be the case. Still, I can't believe I never noticed this at the time :( (More initial expense!) I'd put up a few photos if I could figure out how to do it (when I click on 'insert image' a box appears for an instant then goes away and nothing else happens)! Hi Before going to any expense at this stage, I would suggest running the car for a couple of thousand miles first. Assuming the slight bend has been around for some time - no evidence of tyre scrub or steering issues - this will allow you to access the car for any other issues (hopefully none) and give you time to find a suitable replacement. I'm also assuming that the car has passed a test in this condition and there is no safety issue. As to uploading images, I've had the same problem.

Stick it in the computer and have a look whats on the disc. If its blank save for the logo, no point in wasting any more time. If for some reason its got data but in a format that the satnav can't read, you can play about on tinterweb looking for something that will convert it.

I wouldn't say lack of mechanical knowledge and hence putting faith in a dealer is nieve. The LS (almost) never goes wrong with the correct maintenance. The trouble with any used vehicle is not having a clue how its been driven in the past, although to the experienced there are tell-tale signs even if the car has FSH. I'm also not convinced that luck, or lack of it, has anything to do with your problem. I do think steve2006 puts the position very well and succinctly describes the action you need to take. Once you are back up and running, I suggest that you ask around - on here as well - for a local firm to provide you with serving in the future.

If you had a MKIV with it you wouldn't know, but those that have changed to it notice the difference. To my mind the LS400 isn't a boy racer car; its all about comfort and smooth power. It does, however, blow the boy racers away, at least in a straight line. I don't know about being a guru. Most of my knowledge has been gained from this very forum. Their are many members who are more technical than me.

The small one does vent the crankcase from way down, I cant remember exactly what the larger pipe does but from memory its recirculating from the top of the throttle arrangement. I would re-connect both when you fit the new unit to avoid any issues; as to where will depend on the new unit. Note that the pipes are push fit to plastic and the plastic isn't the toughest. I broke mine.

Hi Stiffer suspension, bigger wheels, low profiles. Stops the body roll when cornering under power but the trade off is loss of the magic carpet ride and the more expensive tyres. As your other post suggests you prefer the MKIII it won't be an issue, its only on the MKIV.

I can't recall the base premium for mine because I have extras - business use, legal, keys and breakdown. I always try to use the services of a reputable broker. They are available to speak to either over the phone or better still in person. I am using Swintons and with a couple of seperate years elsewhere, have done for sometime. I do however obtain alternatives and Swintons were well ahead of the next best.