Geoffers

Are you using a firewall or proxy? If so, just check you've allowed it through.

In theory yes, but it doesn't strictly apply because you can't take into account the forward voltage drop. Unfortunately, it doesn't work like that - it's a common misconception with LEDs. You need to limit the current (Which is why you can't put several in series like xmas tree lights) If you used a 280ohm resistor you would end up with a DED not an LED! (The magic smoke would get out - all things work on magic smoke. Once it's got out, things don't work anymore.) Try it, but wear protective goggles!! 680ohm, .5watt would get the best out of those particular LEDs Sorry - it sounds as if I'm trying to prove you wrong here - not at all, it's just that I can guarantee the LEDs won't last long with a 280ohm resistor at around 14v, and Ukazn will be disappointed on the project and wonder where he went wrong.

Yep - Mike is dead right on this one. 4k would be way too high. 30mA is .03 not .003 which I think is where you got the 4k from, but that was based on 30mA which is the max rating for that LED. I would run it at 20mA Not sure if you're using the diffused or clear, but 40/90mcd isn't very bright. If you want brighter they have them on the site. PS. Mike - the Quanan sensors are fantastic.

Absolute least I could do - you can never repay people who devote hours into this and they need all the help they can get. Wish I'd known of it sooner - I'm sure you wouldn't annoy/bore people pushing it. I would have gone for it even before my own trouble. Maybe a permanent advertisment on the page header?

Wow - how on earth did I miss this? I too have to say thanks to everyone. Having got over throat cancer myself, I know I wouldn't be here now if it wasn't for the research undetaken. Mine was pinpointed and exact drugs were given to combat it - 12 months out of my life to live the rest of it. Everybody should do this. A small amount of processing power (if any) to save peoples lives? Hardly a price to pay is there? Sorry to hear about you're grandfather, its hard. I know I'm lucky - others could be too if more people jump onto it. Everyone - you can save lives.

I had the same problem. On mine it was a T-piece that had become dislodged and was sticking when it got pulled up. Feel underneath and it should clip in.

No, it certainly won't melt your harness. The extra 4 watts it consumes works out at 0.3 of an amp at 12v and will not affect the harness that's in already. (Geek mode: The 7500k temperature - this comes from the spectral analysis of steel when heated). The actual heat may be greater but I doubt there's enough difference for it to be detrimental as the efficiency is better.

Yep - just tried it and it works. You can't do much though.........

I joined gold for much the same reason - not to see what I could get cheaper but to support the site. There is quite a bit of work going on here and anyone who can help you will. You will get honest, genuine answers from people with experience. I don't think you can beat that. The discounts are a plus if you need to use them. I would have thought that anyone who has achieved their goals by obtaining info from the site or just to speak with other users on the subject wouldn't think twice about £25. It's worth it in so many other aspects, not just the future savings you can make.

US pledge not to blackout GPS if/when it hits the fan over Iraq Article Here

Does your bank do 'direct (or special) presentation'? Banks tend not to push this as they want to make a few pennies on an overdraft. It usually costs a tenner and the bank will confirm the 'fate' of the cheque from the other bank before it goes through clearance house. Either way - who cares - you're getting a new car !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Same here - I'll actually time it now though. I've not had much experience of the manual (about a week or so) and I couldn't tell that much difference.

Sounds good to me. Wheres the best place then? Any Lexus places we can get free coffee/car wash and stuff as Mat suggested?

Count me in - I'm working to and from London at the mo so the next couple of weeks are out but anytime after that.

I started installing mine yesterday (only got the sensors in because I started late but quick test and really pleased). Wilderness is dead right If you take the light custer out, you will see a nice big gap to behind the bumpers where you can bring the wires underneath the cluster itself, then you can pass them through the same grommet that the lighting wires pass through. Cheers Wilderness - I was going to drill too! Tony - I'm sure if you've put a grommet in to stop the wires shafing and sealed it ok, you won't have any problems. (Actually with enough sealant it will act as a grommet anyway.) This is exactly what I was going to do.

I'm in if there's still time. Two sets please - Head and dipped Thanks.

I mean't from the sensors on the bumper into the car?

Nice one Tony. If the weather is ok I'll be putting mine in tomorrow. Not even looked yet - how did you get the wires into the boot? Just drill and reseal or did you find another way? Cheers.

You are right - there is no need to a timer in the switching itself - it's a power thing. The only reason I wanted to put a timer on is to apply power to the loom when you switch the ignition off and set the alarm - then remove it a few seconds after the mirrors have closed. The timer wouldn't have anything to do with the opening and closing mechanism directly. (Other than activating the relay). The circuit must apply power for at least some time after it has been triggered by the alarm activation. (As you are aware, the power is cut to the mirrors with the ignition off). The alarm activation trigger is a 5ms negative pulse. The mirrors actually only need a single wire that is switched between neg and pos to open and close. Disconnect the green/silver spot wire coming from the door mirror switch and apply neg or pos on it - they will open and close. Simply put a relay on (crossover style) and that is it - but you must also supply power after the ignition is off and have a trigger device from the alarm - something that will lengthen the 5ms pulse. To do this you might as well have it shut all the power off when it's finished as the circuit (using a monostable) would do it anyway. That way there is no chance of any current drain. Just my thoughts. The circuit itself isn't very complex and costs less than £20. The problem is just a physical one pulling the alarm trigger wire into the door.......

Hit a few snags on the way the mirrors are wired - They are held neg until you press the switch which then puts a positive on the line. This is performed mechanically within the door so it means breaking into the lead and adding the required signals. (Or you would end up with overlaying pos over a neg) Not a great problem electronically, except it is inside the drivers door which means a feed for the alarm trigger signal coming from behind the drivers kickplate and into the door. (Apart from feeding the wire, you must break past the vapour barrier then reseal it well) FYI - the alarm neg. trigger is in the far top left of connector loom - green/silver spots. Be careful there are a few harnesses terminating there with the same coloured wire so make sure you meter it first. Anyway, this is the only thing holding me back at the mo, but I haven't been able to get out there and play a bit more because of recent events absorbing all my time. Should be back to normal next week. Taking the feed from the pos of the sensor wouldn't be a problem - just use a transistor to increase the current. I didn't really want to take it off the door motor in case I hit a cirumstance where the mirrors will close when I lock the door internally while I'm driving or a similar situation. As I say the problem now is the wiring - it stays neg until positive is applied to close them. A simple relay on a timer will do but it's just the physicals now. (I say a timer because you must also provide motor power as well as sig and I wouldn't want to leave that applied also.)

Hmmm - perhaps ntldr is already there but the system can't read it. It is a hidden, system, read only file. You will need to remove the attributes before you can copy over it. Start with the CD again, recovery console, etc. type : cd "-" (replace - with backslash and make sure you use the quotes) attrib -h -s -r ntldr (these are mean't to be dashes) and try copying again. This should allow it to be overwritten. I think you will find better results throwing it out of the window than with a hammer.......

Ahhh - this could be a good thing. Boot from the CD, enter the Recovery Console and type : Copy D:I386-ntldr C: (Assuming d: is your CD drive. - should be a backslash. The site doesn't seem to like it) Reboot and let me know what happens. Did you try a re-install from the CD?

Right - all is not lost yet. The first thing I would suggest here is dropping the drive into another machine and getting the data off if poss. There are a few things we can try but they may be destructive if there is a fault on the drive/controller itself. Just in case - your battery isn't low in the Bios and it's reset it has it? If you go into the BIOS, disable the Boot sector virus warning and also disable UDMA and see if it boots (Re-enable UDMA if it doesn't). There is method in my madness here.... it will tell me a lot. Another thing you can try first is boot from the CD and perform a re-install. If it can read your registry ok then all your programs, etc. should be fine, but this may not cure the boot problem. But worth a try before the following : Boot with the CD again but this time select C for the recovery console. It will ask for the administrator password. After it has logged in it will leave you at a command prompt. Run CHKDSK /P to check your drive (takes a while usually) Reboot and see if it has helped. If not, boot from the CD again and select C again, etc. run FIXBOOT C: Reboot again and see if this helps. If not, Boot from the CD again, select C again, etc. and at the prompt run FIXMBR This will attempt to re-write your master boot record but can be destructive so try and make sure you have your data off if possible. Try these and let me know. (And any different errors that come up while you're trying these.)

Did the machine recover and boot up or is it dead and you're using another at the mo? I think I know the answer already, but do you have a recent emergency repair disk.....? You can try a manual repair. Boot from your 2000 CD and select R for Repair. Slect R again for the emergency repair process. You will get an option for Manual Repair or Fast Repair. Select Manual repair and select select all three options and continue. This will check your startup, media and system files. Hopefully it will be something simple that it can just remap to. Let us know how you get on. Just thinking - have you changed any partition on the drives at all? What was the last thing you did before getting this error?

I don't know much about the Satnav side of things on the lexus yet (I will next week when I get mine!), but I believe that it is a pulsed negative sig. when the car is moving. Over roughly 5 miles per hour and it disables the buttons. Have a look at the pulse when you are doing less than the cut off speed. (For talking sake, say, 2 per second) and using your 555, set it in astable mode and pulse the line with roughly the same timing as if you were doing less than 5 miles per hour. (Leaving the original speed sig lead disconnected). I don't know if it uses the speed sig to override to sat. pos sig difference when you are moving. Providing it does, then there should be no reason why this doesn't work. Might be talking out of my bum here because I've not tested anything and only working on bits I've picked up on, but it maybe worth looking at. L3x jg has a good point - speed, distance, etc is a big factor on the accuracy. It will be reliant only on the Sats for positioning. If you used this method, put a switch on to change over between the two methods.