Cotswold Pete

The question is - Are the UK Authorities as smart as the Dutch ones, or will we not have a clue when buying our fuel. My experience if working in Netherlands is the Dutch hate bullsh*t, where as UK is full of that kind of stuff when government involved. I guess I am lucky to have a Mk4.

A quick bit of research shows that about 95% of the fuel in USA is E10. So I assume Lexus is okay running on this mixture over the pond, but I assume Lexus UK might have a different stance. I assume you get a little less mpg, as calorific value of the Ethonal is lower.

How much sweat was there while trying to stop the payment?

The chaps at Osaka in Newport have the view that Lexus parts for shocks, and upper control arms. Everything else it matters less.

I had the same thing on my LS400 a while back in the winter. Turned out I had sticky throttle, and in first couple of seconds (accidently blipping my throttle on first crank), had flooded engine. Problem was a this time of year, the fuel does not evaporate out of cylinder quickly enough. I recall I left car for 36 hours before getting RAC out. RAC chap cranked the beast way longer than I would have dared and got the car going. He said Lexus engines tolerances so well done, that fuel evaporation even in the summer can take longer than your average car Having said that 10 seconds is a long time, so your engine must surely be flooded with fuel. Best of luck.

Pretty certain it is heat shield, only because when slamming down the boot this morning, there was that tinkling rattle like a badly tuned kids xylophone. Need to roolte about in workshop for a washer.

Just found this link on USA web site, not fully read it, but might be useful to see if it helps us 'lumpy knockers' (ooo err missus 😂) work out what is going on. noise and clunks Mine has done over 203K, so expecting all sorts to reaching beyond end of life, but my bank balance not in fit state to be handing out cash willy-nilly

Phil, I keep getting told all is fine under my car (had new tyres just a few weeks back, and they had a good poke about, as have two other places), but I am getting front clunking, on both sides. I did have new front shocks and ARB bushes back in May, so I would have thought the top mounts on mine would have been looked at and seen to be okay. I assumed my knocking was the drop links going, but the chaps at Chris Mullins Glos (who know their stuff) said links were fine. If anyone thinks this could be cause, be interested to know. At some point soon I need to get my LS down to Osaka for a really good poke about, as getting the front end 'totally' sorted, as the car does feel lumpy and rumbly.

Had the same problem 18 months ago doing work on rear arches. Felt like I had done some really 'odd' yoga moves for two whole days. In my youth pulling cars apart was part of the joy of saving money, but these days prefer to have someone else do the work, though if I had lots of spare time I am sure I would be doing same kind of work your doing, as doing it really helps understand what makes a car 'tick'. I had full re-alignent the other day, one of the rear camber bolts rusted to heck, but the chaps at Chris Mullins said not a problem as it was only just out, and not worth the faff of sorting, though I guess at some point it will need a proper sort out.

Maybe I will jack the old lady up and have a look, to see if it could be that.

Noticed over the weekend, and very much a rattle coming from the nearside backbox, on drive into work. It sounds to me that it is the backbox, as 'poking' the box (thinking it might just be something rubbing) made no difference. Sounded 'less-bad', by time I got to work, so my theory is the baffle is a little warmer. Any thoughts, and if it is the box, is that a repalcement of whole section, or should I visit the chaps who did my Y-piece about 4 year ago so see if they can sort. All comments welcome.

Did a 4 hour train trip across Portugal in September. I could see my GPS position on Google Maps zipping along at 170kph. Just using standard Google Maps, and no data enabled. I am also pretty sure the other day while out and about once my wife had selected the route the phone was still issuing instructions even though she had used up all her data allowance. To be honest I rarely ever use my in car Sat nav or phone, as being old school I learnt all the backroads along the M4,M5,M6, M1, and M25 corridors back over 30 years ago, so bit like a London Cabbie I will get you there. When I am new territory I will usually refer to my trusty dog-eared AA roadmap stuff down side of console. The only time I ever got truely lost was with Sat Nav, and whenever I go out with my sales team and they rely on their Sat Nav we do some interesting detours (seems like Mazda and VW Sat Nav seems to like driving you through center of Coventry regardless of any road conditions). And to cap it all my LS satnav seems to want to send me on a 2 mile detour when I get to about 400 yards from home???

Me and the missus use Google Maps on phone, works across Europe, always more up to date than anything (really helped when we got lost - on foot - in one of the stations in Vienna. Also if you switch your mobile data off, it will still track you on the map, but will not know about traffic hold ups. And I find it way easier to look at than the display in the Mk4. Not sure what will happen with Garmin in future, as the smartphone and bluetooth is where it appears to be all heading.

Geoff, What is your home router, from experience some routers seem to really mess up forwarding across the firewall, and can be random in whether they let you across to your LAN. Also I use a Static IP at home (Plusnet just charged a one off fee), which means I do not have to rely on DDNS services (which are fine, but not always are reliable as one would like). Some ISPs will charge a rental for static IP, some a one fee, and some will not do it unless you use their business services (more £££) The best (IMHO) lowish cost routers are the Draytek 2762 (it can even support VPN termination - so offers a little extra security to stop any old tom, ***** and harry snooping your CCTV). Or if not bothered about VPN, the non e-bay you can get the previous verison (Draytek 2760) for a bargain. If you have some high end gaming type router (like a TPLink Nighthawk), you should not be having any problems with random access.

To add my tuppence worth, running on hydrocarbons will damage the planet, and running on Lithium will damage the planet. Lithium Mining Ms Thunberg is right to want to save the planet, but Electric cars are not going to save the planet (or our grand childrens lungs - with particulates) The Oslo Effect I drive a reliable Lexus knowing that my total carbon footprint is 'okay', and yes it would be nice to be able to walk to work (which I did when I lived in Central Bristol), and it would be nice to be able to afford to catch a train to have a nice break in the Lake District, rather than schlep up the M5/M6. I remember the days when the old steel mills and coal mines of the Welsh Valleys had been poisoning the rivers (and soil) for many years, but now fish are back in the Ebbw, the Taff ,and the slag heaps are recovering. (on the other hand we have just passed the problem over the the Chinese who are doing huge damage to their eco-system - watch the file from 2015 Behemoth) I love my LS400, and if it were to die, I am not sure whether I could downsize to a Mazda 2 (like my missus has just done, 1.5litre 124BHP, over 50 to gallon), but I sure as heck am not going to scrap the 400 (or sell it on) just to get a heavy car with a big battery. No simple answers, which I am sure Ms Thunberg will appreciate as time goes by, but at least she is trying to get complacent politicians to take it a bit more seriously that we only have one planet

Sounds like your home router is not port forwarding. (which is good as by default port forwarding should be disabled) I think you need to set your router up to port forward UDP 1194 and TCP 1194 (from looking at other Web postings). It then opens up a VPN to allow outside devices to tunnel through to the CCTV services on your LAN. If this does not work then switch off the Port Forwarding and try and find out if some other UDP/TCP port is to be used. Most routers should allow you to do this, but some routers bury Port Forwarding options deep in their menu structure. (Firewall settings is most likely place to look).

I would say a mystery all round, just spent a while roaming the Web and nothing anywhere. I wonder if the bumper is not an original, and some previous owner needed to replace original, and this custom bumper was up for grabs. Maybe meant for some left hand drive high intensity light for the verge (to spot those stupid pheasants out of a night - I had two try and commit suicide this weekend by jumping off the verge in broad daylight - I think one may have succeeded!!)

My V reg does not have this 'slot' in. Had a look at some photos on ebay none of the Mk4 seem to have this slot. Be interesting to find out what is, as tow hook would be my guess though I recall years ago, someone telling me that towing automatics is not a good idea.

Try these guys, seem to have pricing for LS400, 430 and detachable head. Watling Engineers I have tow bar on mine (came with it), but never declared it as a mod, and never towed anything, and the head is detached (recall mine is a Witter)

My only real thing against the Mk3 I had for 5 years was engine noise at around 75-80mph seemed to peak in the cabin. At 65 really quite, then it just intruded a little bit too much as you ramped up to 80. Having said that compared to any other car it was still a darned quiet motor. Must say I would prefer not to go back to Mk3, but in terms of power, I did not notice any difference, and I dropped off my Mk3 and gotstraight into the Mk4, so did spend first hour or so of driving, just checking out driveability and oomph. Mk4 with traction control is a must where I live, given the country lanes with wet leaves at thsi time of year.

Osaka gave them a clean bill of health a few months back, so my plan is get all four new tyres fitted next weekend and then see where we are. From comments made it seems like not the drop links causing vibration, the tie bar and ARB are all sorted, and I have all new OEM disc/pads, so if after tyre fitting I am still getting vibration, be time to visit Osaka for another poke about.

This is what others have said, but it it the clunking that will need sorting (at some point) I am actually suspecting my tyres as being a major contributor to the problem, so my plan is to replace the tyres (get alignment sorted) and if there is still vibration, work out what it is. Likely to be getting Chris Mullins in Glos to do the tyres, so can get their chaps to give suspension a good poke to see if anything looks likely to be problem. Just been quoted £350 all four fitted (Kuhmo Ecsta - most people on other forums give them a fair rating), so need to get booked in.

That helps, not sure why Osaka would not have picked up Drop Link wear problem, as they renewed ARB bushes back on June this year (which has help with wife not feeling so sick on long drives).

I now suspect that my drop links are getting due for replacement, as get the thunk when dropping off speed humps at 20-25mph, and the odd thunk when going over smaller potholes in the road, and the vibration at 30mph upwards is quite noticeable. I had new front tie bars fitted 50,000 ago. The old lady now at 203,000 (but apart from suspension rumbles, running sweet as a nut) My question is this: Are Tie bars different to Drop Links, and when replacing Drop links is going OEM any better, or should I just get my garage to use whatever is available? (not sure if I wil luse Osaka in Newport or my local chap (who is pretty good for most things) One other question: If drop links replaced does that mean best to get full re-alignment done?

To keep windows clean, I use damp newspaper to rub them clean, then windowlene to finally de-smear surface. The problem is that humans breathe out warm damp air, and warm air carries more moisture than cold air. So by heating up the car you have more wamr air, capable of carrying all that moisture with ease to the window surface. Here the glass is cold, so the air cannot carry so much moisture, and it dumps a film of water of the window. So the only for sure way to sure is to get the glass hot enough to stop this, put a plastic bag over your passengers heads, or as I do, put AC (which dries the air out - somewhat) and also tilt the sun roof to allow better flow of cooler air into car. Though not sure if the IS350 has a sunroof? An average a human excretes about 30ml of water an hour (breathe and sweat), so does not take long for a car to have enough get steamed up.