ColinBarber

Hopefully ones that thieves cannot bypass unlike the old design.

I couldn't say. Try without for a while and see how it goes. Test the washers after a couple of days and see if it immediately squirts as normal.

Please don't, I've changed the title.

level warning is orange, pressure is red.

That's true but it isn't common these days on something like the 1UZ-FE. It also isn't expected to be an issue on a cold engine as the valves will expand with heat and then close up the gap.

It's nothing specifically to do with EVs, it is a connected car issue which applies to all modern Lexus models.

Is it the low level or low pressure oil warning? You say it has always been down on power, I assume you know what a normal IS200 feel like then? As you say, they aren't quick cars to start with. Does it rev all the way to the redline?

No Lexus should be handed over to the customer with over inflated tyres. Yes they are over inflated on the RORO ship to avoid flat spots from the weeks a sea strapped down to the deck but each vehicle should go through a PDI before customer handover where these things are corrected.

The part is just called a joint but I believe it to be a one way valve as there is an arrow on the body to show fluid direction. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166465451462

If you are on Octopus Intelligent Go tariff then continue to fill it 7.5p overnight and get 15p export for your solar.

You should find a gap between the front bonnet seal and headlight that the wires can pass through without being crushed.

I think that's just for the Premier grade, there were close to 30 F Sports too so Lexus managed to sneak into three figures. The majority of GS sales at that time were for the 300h.

Indeed. They have been removing incentives over the last few years.

There are some elbow connectors and joints, no description of a valve in the parts catalogue that I can see. Possibly it isn't a valve and just a blocked connector? Otherwise I imagine it would be a one way valve to stop the fluid draining back so it always squirts first time.

Bus is a computing term meaning a shared communication path between components, essentially via copper wires either within a system or allowing multiple systems to communicate with each other. CAN is an acronym for controller area network (hence why it is written in capital letters) - it is the specific protocol, or language, that is sent over the bus - like humans, two items communicating need a common language to understand each other. Within the auto industry there are many different protocols used. Toyota/Lexus commonly use CAN, LIN, AVC-LAN and MOST. The reason for using buses rather than discrete wiring is to save cost and allow more sophisticated features. Take the rear light clusters, (Toyota don't typically use CAN for rear lights but just as an example) - traditionally you have multiple wires, one for each function: rear light, brake, left indicator, right indicator, reverse and fog. That's 6 controls wires + ground. If you had sequential indicators you need two more wires for sequential mode rather than standard on/off required for hazard, so a total of 9 wires. If you had CAN controlled light clusters you can reduce to just 4 - +12v, ground and two CAN wires. If you want your mirrors to drop when in reverse, rather than a signal wire going to the mirror ECU, it can just listen for the reverse communication without needing any additional wires. If you take it to the extreme, where modern matrix headlights are made up of 1,000+ individual LEDs that each can be controlled individually to block out the beam to oncoming traffic then that wouldn't be economically possible or reliable using discrete wiring.

This is why our insurance premiums are going through the roof. Everyone from manufacturers, body shops, hire companies and dealerships all making easy money from insurance work.

There are several YouTube videos of Lexus being stolen from Ring type camera footage. Some are off driveways and others from the street outside the house. There are a couple where they have been stolen with a disklok fitted where they just use a battery angle grinder to remove it.

I'm in the UK, I just don't want to advertise where on the internet and the forum software doesn't just give a generic UK option. CC2 are fine all year round in the UK, plenty of members here have them. Actually I'd say it is the perfect country to run them, especially if you aren't in the south (where you can realistically get away with summer tyres all year round if you are careful). Most northern European countries have harsher winters than we do, where they really need proper winter tyres for part of the year. I was happy to have UHP on my GS F, not necessary on my previous IS300h F Sport. You certainly need to retain the standard controls - I think most will support that. You need to make sure whatever unit you are interested in supports then infotainment system you have as there are a couple of different options. I'm not so sure. Many people take the cheap Chinese products and repackage them and sell for a higher price - they might provide helpful installation advise but if they have no control over the firmware/software then you are stuck with bugs until the OEM issues an update, if they ever do. Hopefully other members here who have done this will be able to offer some advice. I've never do it, I just used a phone cradle and my smartphone for improved navigation and access to music etc.

Pin 3 on the fog light connector is for cornering lights, which is controlled via the headlight ECU. I don't know if it would be as simple as removing that pin from the connector and putting insulation table around it. Some duct tape over that element of the fog light lens would be the simplest solution.

Not sure you would need to replace the LCAs on a 2020 vehicle. Air intake is high, at the bonnet level, but not sure if the resonator is air/water tight that sits lower so I wouldn't be submerging the vehicle in any deep water. CC2 tyres are a good choice. Not the ultimate in performance or economy but suit the IS300h quite well and give good grip all year round. Carista is a good way to change the vehicle customisations that aren't available through the in-car menus. It can be expensive to subscribe long term but most people would only need one month's access and then don't touch it again. If you look in the owners manual at the customisations there are a bunch of options that are dealer configurable only - these you will be able to alter with Carista - e.g. how many indicator flashes on a light press of the stalk, how long the headlight stay on after you exit the car etc. Standard infotainment is a bit rubbish. Many of the Android based third party options have good features but are flakey in operation. Aftermarket air filters - directly OEM replacements are ok to save a couple of ££, although may not filter as well. So called performance ones are a complete waste of money on the IS300h unless you go for a complete induction kit - and even then the gains would be minimal at best.

The fuel filter is attached to the pump in the fuel tank. It isn’t changed regularly as part of a service but clearly if you have a fuel delivery issue then the filter and pump should be inspected.

The alternator has a clutch, it is enabled/disabled as required. I suspect when it is enabled there is extra load on the engine which pulls the rpm down and then the idle is adjusted to compensate. I don't think it should be that severe, and I wouldn't expect the battery light to come on at all - Lexus state that would only happen if the clutch or alternator have issues. Did you get a new clutch with your alternator, or did you swap that over?

It sounds like the alternator isn't outputting enough at low speed and as a result has killed your old battery. Not sure on the plug you are referring to on the alternator, will see if I can find some info.

The recommendation seems to be Toyota's standard procedure when the battery is in the engine bay - ideally you don't want to connect to the -ve on the battery (which will cause a spark) in case there is hydrogen gas present so they suggest a remote connection. This precaution makes no sense when the battery is located in the boot and your jump points are in the engine bay. Any good earth point can be used.

Are you saying the valve clearances closed up? I don't see how that is possible, wear can only cause the gap to increase between the cam lobe and follower/shim - unless something happened to the VVTi/timing.