normski2

That’s good news. Hampshire is a big county.. so this may be a pointless offer. My closest point to Hants would be Ringwood. I work near Verwood. If you need to do the oxygen sensors at any point I have the requisite socket for the sensor. You are welcome to borrow it at any time. Bank 1 sensor 1 is dead easy. Bank 2 sensor 1 is a little more tricky, but doable. I’ve done both on my car so can offer assistance. Newbies guides are excellent and easy to follow.

Have a read through these posts. May give you some pointers. You have 2 levelling sensors. Front and rear wheel area both on the passenger side.

Don't think you'll get any fuel with that recall....unless you have had to make a longish journey to the dealer. Wouldn't hurt to mention that the dash is silent when you drop the car off! I actually got my wife to make a video for about 10 mins while driving to prove (if it had been necessary) that there were no noises whatsoever inside the car or from the dash. Thankfully it was not needed as the work was done and all was good and silent again. Happy days

Good news Mike. Here's hoping that's done it. I do my MAF clean every 8000 miles or so. Its never looked dirty but its kinda tricky to see right down the tube where the wire goes. So I just do it anyway. The good news is that if it is the Bank 1 Sensor 1 that's playing up .... its the easiest one to replace. 15 mins tops.

As it’s very easy to do .... I’d remove and do a solvent clean of the maf sensor. Then you can dismiss that if the light is still on. Have the upstream fuel/air sensors ever been changed?

The cover definitely fits over the Bosch S4 026 068 battery. I have one in my car. It's no tighter a fit than over the original Panasonic battery.

Watch the bit at about 3 mins as to removing the light bezel on the rear cluster. Use the same principle on the front light bezel and change the bulbs without removing the whole unit. If you want to remove the whole unit, for curiosity, apply the same principle to the beige plastic cover piece (where the sunglasses holder would be on US models) to remove the cover and expose the 2 screws. Really its peasy once you've got your head around it. Slide your thin plastic trim tool (sets are dead cheap on Ebay) around to feel where the tabs are located.

Possibly the fuel line gasket recall too ... if it was ignored by previous owner.

Take a look at this it will tell you all you need to know.

If you are members of your local home watch group you can also get them via the police. Well, ours does.

Think there is a Boot lock button in the glove box? If there is, the button may have been pressed accidentally. From memory you cannot open the boot with the fob if the button has been pressed.

+1 to that. Definitely chain driven. I had a220d a while back.

Not heard anything.

Try an Ebay search using underfloor splash guard lexus is250/220 or similar and you will find them from time to time. Some times they're £12 and sometimes £59 ..... bonkers!

Yes, you can use many different makes. Whatever takes your fancy really. Just check with your supplier that they fit your vehicle.

Vented disc ... not a solid type disc.

Yes I worked straight off the jack. Car was on level ground, front and rear wheels chocked.

Took advantage of a bit of fine weather on Sunday afternoon to check my brake pads. I'd purchased some Pagid sets from ECP last August as they were so ludicrously cheap. Last checked them in Oct and figured then it would be round about now when they'd need doing. Sure enough, all down to their last 4-6mm. Took about 2½hrs from start to finish. Jacked up one wheel at a time, chocked front and back on the other side and just worked my way around the car. Found it useful to have:- An old plastic syringe ... to draw some brake fluid from the master cylinder as the new pads would raise the oil level. Copper grease for the shims. There were 2 shims on each pad and I chose to clean and re-use those along with a slip of Copper Grease. Strangely the pagid boxes only had shims(4) for the rear pads. Caliper grease ... best to give the slide pins the once over while there! They were all fine! A 8" G Clamp and a piece of 2x1 about 4" long. To press the brake piston back so you can get the caliper back together over the now much fatter pad pack! The only part I needed to use from the old pads was one spring clip on each front pad. These lock into the caliper housing when fitting the pad. A decent pair of vinyl work-shop gloves. Solvent/rag/wirewool for cleaning various parts. My copies of Noobies descriptives for doing pads and slide pins. Always good to refer to. Couple of sharp tests on the drive and then a run around town. All working beautifully. For what its worth the Pagid pads are just fine and despite what some others said they are silent thus far. Brake dust? Well that'll be observed over time. The last Toyota set were quite dusty...particularly on the front wheels. Someone commented recently about not being able to withdraw the rear pad guide pins. I'm wondering if they had removed the locking spring that fits between the pins and locates through a hole in each pin. I cant see how the pins would be immovable....unless maybe this spring was in place. You only need to wiggle the pins and they readily withdraw with a pair of pliers. Then you can withdraw the second spring which has loops to accommodate the guide pins at each side.

Looks like the result of somebody trying to butcher their way in blindly. If they’d done a bit of research they would have found the method of safe removal. Try doing a load of searches on YouTube and Google, hopefully you’ll come up with some possibilities.

Not sure you’ll get an answer. He hasn’t been around for well over a year or more. His posts do make for very interesting reading though.

Well, well... can't trust the info on websites can you!! I suppose I should not be that surprised ECP said (and so did many other sites) the Bosch S4 024 068 battery would not fit my car. Wrong ... its a perfect fit. A year on and they still profess it does not fit. Hope it all goes well for you.

Also, forgot to mention, the headlights need to be self levelling for HID lamps. The headlight housing has a motor to facilitate this. It is prompted by sensors fitted front and rear on the car.

There is no need to dread it. If you haven’t already got them do a search for Newbies excellent posts on servicing front and rear pads.Great write up and super photos. Once you’ve done it, it really is quite simple and straight forward.

I don’t think you can just change halogen bulbs for d4s discharge bulbs without changing the whole unit. Assuming that is what you are referring to. It would be a lot of work. You would need to remove the front bumper to get at hidden bolts. There may well be implications for the wiring too. I might be wrong but I thought there had to be headlight washers fitted when HID lights are present. Could well give an MOT failure. Mind you mot centres are unlikely, at present, to look that closely. I’ll be intrigued to see what other replies you get. Maybe it’s possible without too much hassle.

+1 to that. That is spot on in my estimation. I had a lower rear pin seized and MOT did not pick it up at all. It was only me getting in and having a root around that found the problem. I just felt the brakes did not quite feel right. Ended up getting a replacement pin from a very helpful scrapyard. Then I ended up getting all enthused and finally painted all the calipers green over a few days.