ROYT

As above I'll stick with my old LS'94. Some of the repair prices people are paying on relatively new cars is unbelievable. I think we are now expected to pay for factory design faults and failures that should not be happening before 10 years of use. Major makers are charging higher and higher prices, skimping on quality at every opportunity and we are paying for it. Too many electronic gadgets that are linked to each other on the modern stuff. any fault is an instant rip off price even if it is diagnosed correctly first time. [fat chance] Memory lane looms often. set of points,spark plugs, oil filter, 5 ltrs of oil....back on the road again for twenty quid!

The only time I worry about fuel consumption is when I'm stuck in a traffic jam with them 8 cylinders using fuel to go nowhere!

Greased lightning for me too, after a wash, [the car not me]. Did risk trying it on a not very dirty area and it did seem to work with the recommended microfibre cloth. As my LS is only twenty years old, I didn't risk it any further!

Some GS's being broken on Ebay

Spot on Steve,[ is that a new name?] I did this job on my '94 years ago with ADUS and it's been fine

Surely some aircon specialist can make a suitable pipe, it's not rocket science. Check a company that make and repair hydraulic hoses, they may be able to make a flexible one up.

on my '94 series 2, the boot/trunk has a switch behind the keyhole and electrically unlocks it. Have you checked all fuses? try turning the key in the boot and giving it a slap on top.[not a thump or bang!] If the lock is on on the inside for fuel lid etc, this may not work!

Oh Heck, should have gone to Specsavers...............

You could check with a hydrometer if you have removable cell covers. [unlikely] You are taking a reading with no load on the battery, so it's difficult to say. If it cranks the car really lively, i would say it's well charged

There are 'Nissens' radiators on Ebay about £90,-----don't know what the quality is.

£565!!, I'd want the car as well for that. Shop around, the paint and laquer would cost about £50, the rest labour, if you could do most of the prep yourself that would get the price down. Remember, to swap the wing means removing the front bumper!

think I read somewhere that metal objects in the centre glove box affects the immobilser sometimes....don't know why Also make sure the car battery is fully charged.

Also check everything is fitted back securely, no air leaks etc. check all wiring nearby in case something is disconnected.

I would risk a drop of WD40.........

If the chassis is corroded through, unless it's localised and minor i would abandon it. The wheel arches can be repaired, but if the inner arch is rotten as well it becomes a big job. Get a body man to see how extensive and widespread the corrosion is. I broke up a series one with no corrosion anywhere, better than my series two and looks like better than later models

A mechanical bang or an electrical bang? If a mechanical bang usually quite loud check for a broken suspension spring, one of mine went bang [broke] just backing out of the drive.......

Steve 2006, The crank pulley didn't need a puller on my '94 but the crank bolt was very tight.

I recklessly drilled holes in the front of the wheel arch inside. Then removed the 'kick' trim on top the sill and drilled a few more. Plenty squirting of Waxoyl, then flat grommets to neatly cover the holes.

Happened to me ,new battery fixed it....

Excellent news,what did they use to get it off?

Replacement locking keys are sometimes available, if there are any numbers or identity marks on yours, there are some on Ebay now. If you could get one and maybe get the others off leaving one bad one your breakdown service may help, well worth a try anyway , this must be a popular problem.

Yes, just weld it on to the remains of the original damaged nut [after it has been tidied up], so you get a secure weld.

You won't let me have Rachel Riley so Guy Martin!!

MIg welder will weld a new nut on top of the remains of the old one, It's not screwed on just welded on top.[like a stack]. The heat will be drawn down the stud, very little if any will stray to the wheel. Welding time is very quick.

chisel or grind off the raised wavy bit ,weld a new nut to remaining part of original wheelnut.