Hangie

It got quite a lot of torque and power to transmit plus all those hybrids components - all of that generate heat. in 450h there is even separate “water” cooling system for the inverter 🙂 as for problems I’m not aware of any it is very classic system - 2 pipes leaving the engine to join main water radiator in a separate small circulation and then back to the gearbox. Oh only mk3 at the beginning got some problems with oil pump which was later fixed.

Nope there is no dip stick in 450h. System is sealed. in my case easiest way to check oil condition is to very slightly loosen oil hose going to the radiator. Connect to pet bottle cap was get out and retighten the hose. in my case oil was tired but still smooth with little residue. Smell was alright. Seeing that I’ve asked Lexus for an oil change which they did. After 8k miles no issues. Shop around one dealership quoted £450 while other done it for £180. it took like 1.5-2h and oil isn’t cheap either so I paid very good price.

First of all check fluid condition - smell it, smear between fingers. If it is burnt and got particals in it leave it as it is already too late for a change. When you put new one you might do few miles and gearbox will fail most probably. If it is just tired but still smooth and not black like oil change it. ive changed it in my both cars. Both were done by Lexus as it is not easy procedure on hybrids. With conventional gearbox you can go to anyone good.

If I remember correctly when lights are on first use of windscreen should also trigger headlamp one - you could use that to check the button. Next I would press the button and listen if pump is starting. If yes check pipe work.

Quite often lack of those parts in official distribution is not because they want to sell you more but because there is no easy/official way to replacing those. It is probbaly not easy job to remove those bushes and then press new ones. I guess you need to take out whole hub anyway and take it to some specialist who could try. Then of course Lexus won't warranty that it is up to the OEM specification.

Probably there is no easy way to remove the bush from a hub. If I were you I would buy second hand hub as £700 just for part is quite a major investment in your car. Here you go an example under £25 - https://allegro.pl/oferta/zwrotnica-piasta-tylna-lewa-lexus-gs300-2005-5678684223 there is few more but still under £50 area. As for ball joint at the back I don't recall any ball join there as rear axel is fixed. General comment about warranty - I would be surprised if it will cover any suspension part and particularly in 10 year old car.

Hi, why you want to do that ? If it is because of weak water jet problem is probably somewhere else. i believe they are clip on only so some wrapped flat screwdriver should do.

Lexus is using INRIX as a provider for live traffic data and as far I know most companies used the same source. I agree that in the UK it is not the most accurate (like queue warning at 10PM on M25 where road is empty). Nevertheless in some countries it does work well and is very useful. As for the mouse like control I'm right handed and managing it. Just be gentle with it and support your wrist. Maybe with age it will come more difficult as I'm still in low 30s.

Update or not depends if you got any problems with your current maps. In my case where I'm driving to Poland often map from 2012 was horrible as since then few hundred km of new motorways were build. In the UK there is no so much new roads in general. Only update I've noticed is new Luton airport approach but for sure there is many new developments added etc. If you want to upgrade do as myself with few other GS owners and buy from there: https://toyotamaps.online/map-updates/toyota-lexus-navigation-gen7-update Just double check your sat nav gen. You will also need to have 64GB USB drive. Maps are coming from some dealership in Russia and are legal. There is no labour cost as you will need to update by yourself. PS. I also like mouse pointer. Touch screen is MK3 GS and dial in Honda Accord were also nice. Maybe I'm just not too picky.

Check brake discs temperature after few miles drive. Maybe calliper has sized and you got brake permanently applied 🙂 Eventually lift the car and rotate wheels to see if you can do it easily. Finally go for a longer trip on the nearest motorway / empty A road. Warm up the engine and set cruise control to 60mph and check mpg. You should see mid 40s.

I've mentioned few times that I'm doing high speeds in Germany few times a year. GS is quite good car for that, but I prefer to slow down to 110-120 area in corners with not perfect surface as suspension (and down force) is not hard enough for quick corners on uneven surface - especially when you would need to brake. And expect whirlpool in petrol tank 🙂 I've done nice straight bit at constant 140mph which showed 17-18mpg plus at that speed you need to constantly slow down and accelerate which brings that value even lower.

Bonus answers: Speed yesterday but I was limited to 140 due to the winter tyres speed index 🙂 I normally floor it only while joining motorways or accelerating in Germany from 60mph to 120mph. It quite often a surprise to those Skoda superb/A4 TDI driver in the back. They normally stay behind from 100 area. I'm driving to Poland (through Germany) 3-4times per year. That is why I couldn't live with 300h, but for most peoples I guess it would be sufficient. Like Linas.P I disappointed Lexus decided to forget about few % of its customer who expect/need a bit more. I'm really interested to see sale chart of new ES in Germany. I got feeling it won't be the best selling car out there.

There is one more aspect about acceleration and top speed. It is way better/comfortable/pleasant to accelerate in 8s to 60mph in a car which can do it in 5s rather than maxing out a car which can do it in 7.5s. I don't like to press pedal that hard and hear that engine is struggling (especially in CVT). I don't have anything to back it but I also assume it is way healthier to the engine to work at 40-50% capacity rather 90-100%. I believe there was some classic top gear were they were proving that M5 can burn less fuel that some ordinary car when driven to 100% small car capacity but only 30% of M5. Same goes to top speed. I don't do normally 155mph in Germany as it will dry out petrol tank very quickly. My average is 110-130mph and driving/accelerating to that speed is way more comfortable when I don't need to max out to get there. PS. Did you know that cruise control don't work over 130mph ? 🙂

Way too low. For me average 35mpg. Eco motorway 45mpg+ I've just done 2800 miles run to Poland on winter tyres - 33mpg but my average speed through whole Germany was slightly over 100mph 22mpg is something you should see doing around 110mph. In short mpg is dropping dramatically when you move above 85/90

That is my plan in few years time but I doubt 3 years old ES will be at the same price as the 5 years old LS. I expect to pay around 35-40k for LS Luxury , I doubt ES (even Takumi) will be worth that much after 3 years 🙂 As for warranty please remember that LS warranty is way more expensive than GS. GS is £1095 for 2 years where LS is £2395 for 2 years or £1495 for 1 year.

II’m skiing in polish mountains in -10C right now, so yes I was driving on snow. still no extra noise from tyres. snow function is quite useful but if you are gentle with the pedal you also will be fine. And how it is - pretty the same as all other RWD cars in normal traffic. Only plus is heavy rear of the car which help with traction.

Just an update on tyre skip. Before trip to Poland I’ve put winter tyres on. Summer ones were skipping in lower temps on winter ones it didn’t happen even once and temperatures during night dropped to -8 so far. So there you have the solution for skipping - buy winter tyres.

I’ve just noticed that Lexus is quite silent about one performance aspect. When you go deeper into the data you will find out that max speed is just 112mph! Am I right it is Prius area ? it is probably due to transmission and fact there is no reductor there like in the GS. i know not everyone in the UK will drive at that speed but imagine Central Europe area and especially Germany.

Check the second half of this thread - we have discussed it recently.

What kind of front brakes F Sport/Takumi have ? Rear armrest control panel look a bit cheap. GS ones was much nicer. I also don't get that trend of stitches in plastic door panels 🙂 In general ES is taking the value of the GS which was under the bonnet to the "in your face" area 🙂 Most probably it will increase the sales volume but will not appeal to drivers like myself. I don't care about car play but would like to have more interesting drivetrain and brakes. Why you can't have takumi with adaptive shocks ?

In old days when I got my Honda Accord 2.2 from 1998 I got constant problems with brakes - sqeiking, pulsating etc. It went away when once on the A10 (Berlin orbital road) some old driver has decided to change lane without checking the mirror. I got occasion to test breakes and ABS efficiency from 210km/h to 90km/h in a very short distance. After that all problems went away.

I’ve just taken following video after 2 days not starting the car and cold nights. phone was almost under the car. When I listen carefully I can hear that short sound before starting the engine. For sure it is shorter and more gentle than yours. when engine is idling both sounds very similar and a bit rough to get better after a while. short lack of audio is due the phone connecting via Bluetooth 🙂 8021420B-F196-46B1-A5AE-0BCA0B66BC91.MOV

You never know with brakes on a GS. When you press the pedal anything can happened. Ideally you want to use regenerative breaking all the time but you also need to use hydraulics to clean the surface of disc from time to time. There must also be some HV conditioning behaviour - that you might not want to charge it at that given time when you are breaking and then hydraulics need to be used etc. Maybe that is why it is intermittent as hydraulics are not always used and when not all is good 🙂 With conventional breaks when you got this kangaroo jumps it means that breaking force is not equal in a function of time. When you are moving slower disc is rotating slower so you can feel those weak spots for longer. Quite easy check is to lift up the car and manually rotate the wheels while gently applying the brake. You might be able to feel something. Finally about the noise. I'm using shell premium fuels and never heard injector pump. I'll check today though by starting the engine with open door to check if I got anything similar.

From inside of the car I can only hear those high revs and that extra sound that I thing is coming from the electric motor somewhere. I can't hear at all this clicking sound before engine fire up - maybe it is an oil pump that is rebuilding pressure. Nope I haven't noticed any juddering but my brakes set is just 20k miles old where yours are probably still back from 2013. You could try to give it a good break for few times like 80-10mph to clear them. Eventually to be sure which part of breaking system does it use gearbox selector to break. Put car into "1" then it is only "engine"/rear axle breaking. If juddering will disappears check front discs/pads/callipers. If it still will be there maybe suspension or something with gearbox/diff/axles.

I personally don't know any, but my brother in-law is a car mechanic back there so he got much better connections. He was putting together that RX7 I've mentioned when it came back from welding and painting. It came out quite nice considering 20cm of front was transplanted from shell I've sourced for him in the UK. - https://archiwum.allegro.pl/oferta/mazda-rx7-i7530864465.html