Herbie

Of course not - rubber is a great insulator 😄

Rather than editing my previous post I decided to add this one in because, unless you've removed the back seats completely, and then removed the battery cover by first removing 28 bolts and 6 nuts, whatever you're looking at is not the HV Relay Assembly. Here's the removal procedure:

The O2 sensor is to do with emissions.

You really need to get the OBD2 codes read or read them yourself if you have a code reader. Once you tell us what the code(s) are we can then point you in the right direction. Without codes, it's all just guessing.

Absolutely yes.

It could be. As David said, a photo would help us to see what you're seeing but yes, it looks likely. The contactor is part of the HV Relay Assembly:

Not sure about tax but insurance has to be continuous, just in case it gets nicked or bursts into flames or whatever.

What problems are you having and what led you to this negative contactor? What OBD2 codes have been generated?

I started with a 2005 RX300 SE NAV then traded in for a 2013 RX450h Advance, which was traded in for my current 2018 RX450h Luxury so I suppose I'm a bit biased towards the RX 😄 Every car I've had for the last 30 years has had a sunroof (except my current one) and I've never had any of them open, much preferring instead to let the Climate Control do what it does best. You simply set the cabin temperature that you want and the CC system will mix hot/cold conditioned air to achieve and sustain that temperature for you. Plus, you don't get your head sunburned if you happen to be 'thinning on top' like I am! I would choose the RX over the NX all day long and from what I can gather, although the NX should be better on fuel, it is, but not by very much at all.

In that case then, 128GB or larger microSD card, wired connection to Android Auto and use VLC Player, Black Player or whatever to play the music from the card.

RX450h all day long.

Wow. I did my apprenticeship at a factory and literally within two months of completing it we were told that the factory was going to be shut down. I jumped early and joined what was then Post Office Telephones and spent the vast majority of my working career as a cable jointer there, never working as an electrician again. I really loved jointing though, great job.

Good grief Steve, the last time I had anything to do with that was during my electrical apprenticeship, 1974-1978. You've just blown a lot of dust off some little grey cells there my friend And as for things to do when the football is on, you can't beat a bit of this:

Which app(s) are asking for or showing this info and are you sure that the app is reporting these things to someone or something 'out there' in a sinister sort of way, or is the app just giving you the information, in which case it's perfectly harmless? I recently installed a tracker in my car in case it's ever stolen and, of course, that very information is exactly what it needs to report to me. Unless your parents didn't register your birth and you've never appeared on any official database whatsoever (never been to school, never been to hospital/GP etc), I'm afraid that any attempt at privacy now is just futile. You're already well and truly 'on the books' as it were.

What "telematics" from Android Auto?

Excellent news (well, mostly). I, too, live in Preston so it's good to know that our dealer is a good 'un As for the navigation, it's long been the Achilles' Heel of the Lexus brand but surely it should either come with Android Auto/Apple Carplay or just need a software update to allow its use? You can then use any far superior mapping/navigation app of your choice.

No, no and thrice no! Why spend all that time and money and then lock it away? Use it as a car is meant to be used, i.e., drive it and enjoy it to the full.

What did you use to get the engine bay looking so good?

No offence meant to the OP, River, but he/she has already rejected one car purely because of the audio system, so I think it's safe to assume that he/she is an audiophile and will see/hear problems that 98% of other people won't even notice. My ears are 63 years old and have been battered by being at live gigs with some of the loudest bands in the world, such as Led Zeppelin, Deep Purple and so on. I can almost guarantee that I could sit in the same car and think nothing is wrong at all but River's ears are obviously more sensitive than mine.

My 2018 has a 60Ah battery in it. I'm not sure of the CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) rating but it doesn't matter because, given that the car doesn't have a starter motor the battery doesn't have to crank the engine. You can basically use a golf trolley battery, or a mobility scooter battery, or even a lawn mower battery to get these cars running so I really can't see the battery being the problem. I suppose it could be a faulty battery but the chances of it being 'under spec' or not up to the job are extremely low. Good luck and don't forget to keep us informed

Never mind that - how have you gone on with the actual fault and the questions that brought you here in the first place?

I don't know the answer to your specific questions but I can say that I found wireless charging to be slow and a bit flaky so I just stay with wired.

Not on this one Barry. It's out of warranty on both age and mileage and I highly doubt that a Lexus dealer would sell one of that age and mileage anyway.

I've always believed that prevention is better than cure, which is why I use a big, bright yellow, Stoplock Pro Elite steering lock on my car. Hopefully the scrotes of the world will take one look and be persuaded that they don't need the extra hassle and will move on to an easier target. Up to now I've not bothered with a tracker for three reasons: Initial cost of the unit Ongoing cost of monitoring It only comes into play after the event Although the third reason still stands and I still place more importance in prevention and deterrence, I recently heard of something that makes the first two irrelevant (for me anyway). The Rewire Security DB2 - a real-time GPS tracking device that's an absolute doddle to fit and costs under £45 available here. It comes with a SIM card already installed and once activated you get a short trial period, after which it costs £5/month. Unfortunately, 'buying in bulk' doesn't result in a discount, with pricing being £15 for 3 months, £30 for 6 months, £45 for 9 months or £60 for 12 months. Given the low cost of the unit and the SIM you won't be surprised to learn that there is no central monitoring station or police interaction with this system, but it does give real-time tracking on your smartphone with apps for Android and also Apple, and there's also website monitoring too. All the screendumps below have been taken from the website rather than my phone, just for the sake of clarity. You can set various alerts, such as a virtual ring fence, so that if the car moves out of a predefined zone your phone will start going crazy. Other alerts can be set, such as when the ignition is switched on, when there's movement, when the car battery gets low, when the device backup battery gets low and a few others too. If you have the misfortune to have your car stolen you can watch on the map in real time and call the police to tell them where it is, where it's heading, what speed it's doing and so on. It's very, very easy to install with just two wires, a positive and a negative. The company advocate just sticking it to the top of the battery but if you feel you want to hide it somewhere more secure then you can, just as long as you give it a permanent 12V supply and you must mount it horizontally with the labels facing upwards. This is so that the GPS antenna can get a good signal. It has an internal 3A fuse for safety, which I didn't know about, so I installed a fuse carrier on the positive wire and put a 5A fuse in but you can learn from my ignorance and you don't have to do that. Ironically, since installing it I haven't used the car much so I haven't got lots of data to show you but the screendumps below will give you an idea. I have to say that I know there are much better tracking systems out there but, given the price of this unit and the monthly cost of the SIM, I am well impressed with it. N.B. If anyone does get one of these there's one thing to beware of and that is receiving alerts by text message or SMS. You can set the system to send you email alerts and you get an allowance of 150/month free of charge. The system will also send 'Push Notifications' to your phone, again free of charge. However, you have to pay for SMS messages and if you don't set up your alerts correctly you can use them at one hell of a rate of knots and they're not cheap.

Well, to answer some questions: The 12V battery will be fine. Original fit batteries are only small capacity anyway because hybrids don't have starter motors. A conventional starter motor can draw upwards of 300A when cranking the engine but the 12V battery in a hybrid only boots the computers and does a couple of other things to get the car into READY mode, which only takes about 20A. Hybrids don't have alternators (or anything else that would normally be driven by a belt from the engine* - Imagine losing power steering in the middle of a turn because the hybrid system decided to shut off the petrol engine at that moment). We have a DC/DC converter that takes power from the 288V traction battery and converts it to about 14.5V to run all the 12V systems and keep the 12V battery charged. It would be very unusual for this to be faulty. This just can't happen. Again, the aircon compressor is driven by an electric motor, not a belt. It's actually a 500V 3-Phase AC variable frequency motor, again powered by an inverter/converter and would be unlikely to cause something like this. * The only thing driven by a belt is the water pump that circulates engine coolant and provides the heat for the cabin heater.