Herbie

I agree with Scudney. Everything in life is a risk so stop worrying and just enjoy the car - especially given that every petrol car has a cat so every car is at risk anyway.

Look at your key. Are the buttons in the same place? I'll give you a clue - probably not.

The same screen is used for satnav and other stuff so is it dark all the time or just when in reverse and showing the reversing camera?

Well, I never knew such things existed Maybe they shouldn't

Yes, it works, but if you just paste the link for a YouTube video directly into the body of the post without going through the chain-link icon as you normally would do, it'll embed the video directly in the post insted of posting a link.

Agreed. Also Antonio, if you take the oil filler cap off, does it look a bit like mayonnaise? That can happen with head gasket failure although not exclusively. Mayo can also be due to condensation if the car olny does short trips and temps are low.

Hope it's not my old RX - GY05 HVK?

That's what we're here for

No need to be shy Dave, you can name eBay and Amazon and even link to the product - makes life easier for us all that way

People like me, who have back injuries or other ailments or joint problems that make getting in and out of saloon cars difficult, find it far, far easier in an SUV-type car. Usually more luggage space in an SUV and the tailgate opens wider than a boot, allowing easier loading. Higher seating position allows for better view.

Good points Len and I'd say it's definitely worth the £50 or £60 for a steering lock but hundreds of Pounds for a Ghost? Not so sure. For an initial cost of £45 and a yearly SIM cost of £60, I did actually fit a tracking device recently, more info below:

The problem with any immobiliser is that it only comes into play once the scrotes are in the car and at that point, being rather miffed at being thwarted in their efforts, they may decide to damage something just out of spite. Prevention is better than cure. A visual deterrent will hopefully make them decide that they don't want the hassle and they move on to an easier target without ever gaining access to your pride and joy. It's not pretty but in tests such as this one the Stoplock Pro Elite (as below) took more than 5 minutes to defeat. That's 5 minutes of noise and hassle and possible discovery that the scrotes don't want.

If you go here https://www.lexus-tech.eu/Menu/Repair you can pay for access to the official factory workshop manual on an hourly, daily, weekly basis and while in there you can freely print out any sections of it that you want. In the absence of anyone knowing how to do it, this may be your best bet.

You fill the tank up until it clicks off. You reset the trip meter to zero. You then drive until the fuel guage shows about 1/4 full. You then go back to fill the tank again, and again wait until it clicks off. This is the most accurate way of making sure you fill up to the same level. Note how many litres you've just put in. Note how many miles you've done to use that amount. Convert to gallons so that it's easier for us to understand. Divide the miles figure by the fuel figure and you get your miles per gallon. Example - 230 miles divided by 6 gallons = 38.33 miles per gallon.

They are indeed thirsty beasts and that's why we had ours converted to LPG, but as said above, you asked the question a few times and were told the same answer every time, so it should not have come as a shock. I have no idea why the cost of petrol is so high at the moment but hopefully it'll drop down a bit in the not too distant future. Looking here shows the average for the RX300 is about 20mpg.

That's sad, but fair enough, it's your choice.

Maybe you've just disabled something or altered a setting by mistake?

Mine was no different to the factory exhaust noise but I believe that you can ask for it to be made noisier if that's your thing 🙂

Why would you go to Lexus for an exhaust? Simply go to one of the custom places and get a stainless steel one made up and I'll guarantee it'll be half the price. I had a Nissan Maxima QX SE+ and none of the usual suspects such as KwikFit, ATS or wherever could get hold of one. I rang Nissan and was told about £800 to £1,000 if I remember right (it was a long time ago). After a fit of laughter I picked myself up off the floor and went to a place where they dropped the old one, measured and copied every bend, radius and length etc., and created a bespoke system that was guaranteed for the life of the car (even transferrable to a new owner if I sold the car) and all for just £470.

It depends if it would affect the rust warranty. I must admit that the rust warranty is not something I know about but I seem to remember reading somewhere that it runs for about 12 years? Other than that I would just take it to any good reputable body shop, preferably one that has been recommended by word of mouth of satisfied and happy customers.

I agree. Shock absorbers should be replaced in pairs but if one is replaced under warranty you don't automatically get the other one too. That damage doesn't look good but I'm sure they won't replace the whole dash for something that small.

The amount of help available in these forums is incredible and never ceases to amaze me 🙂 Thanks Paul, I'll bear that in mind.

Hi David and welcome to the club. I'm afraid that I can't help but hopefully someone else will come to the rescue soon.

Hi Kuba, welcome to the club

At the moment it's absolute rubbish. Half of the things don't work, navigation using Waze or Sygic is very hit and miss and often freezes up and controlling the joystick is utterly impossible - just need to breathe on it and it zooms all over the place. I believe they released a firmware update to fix that particular problem but for some people it bricked the whole unit so I've not been brave enough to try it on mine yet. HOWEVER..... I really get the feeling that it's SO close to being a great unit if only there were proper instructions with it. I haven't got a clue what half of the settings do or what they're supposed to be set at. For instance, no one seems to know what the "Scrap" means in this photo: I've tried adjusting them and nothing seems to happen but is that because I've not connected, or incorrectly connected, a wire somewhere? Or is it a sort of sub-setting that only comes into play when something else is selected? No one knows. The units are made in China so the language barrier doesn't help when asking for support. The other thing of course is that if you have an Apple phone and you're using Carplay, then an Apple phone is an Apple phone and no one makes them except for Apple. If, like me, you have an Android phone and you're trying to use Android Auto, there are dozens of manufacturers. Both my wife and I use Xiaomi phones, so is it some incompatibility with that? Would it work better with, say, a Samsung or a Motorola? There's just too many variables at the moment and I still have a LOT of experimentation and testing to do, but as I said above, I do get the feeling that it could be great once it's set up correctly. When will that be? Who knows.