Herbie

I don't know the answer but remember that fog causes light to bounce back so you don't wnt anything too bright or you'll just succeed in dazzling yourself.

No, the car in question in this thread was an RX450h. The RX400h diagram is here:

Again, I'd say yes and go for it.

Probably down to the variant you have now - there have to be some differences between the Luxury, Advance, F-Sport and Premier or whatever the variants are called these days.

That's the cost of a new unit from a Lexus dealer, but you could try eBay breakers for a used one if needed. As I said earlier though, I think if one went then I'd be worrying about when the others might give up the ghost and I'd take the opportunity to convert instead. Got to be honest, not a clue. All you can do is go through Autotrader and/or Parkers and see what others are going for but it'll be difficult because of the low mileage.

My first Lexus was a 2005 RX300, followed by a 2013 RX450h Advance and now our current car is a 2018 RX450h Luxury. As you can probably tell, I'm a big fan of the RX The air suspension can be a bit ropey and it's expensive to fix with new air struts being around £600 each. However, don't let that put you off, for two very good reasons: If one went faulty you could take the opportunity to convert the car to normal coil suspension and get rid of the air altogether (complete coil kit is about £700-£800) Although there are people on these forums who have had air strut problems (a) there hasn't been that many, and (b) remember that people come to forums like this when they have problems and are looking for help and advice. No one joins a forum and only posts good things about their cars. There must be many, many hundreds or thousands of people out there who have never had problems with their air suspension. Unfortunately, being 11 years old means it won't be eligible for a warranty apart from the hybrid battery. The Hybrid Health Check can be done at any Lexus dealership for £59 and it tests and checks all the parameters of the high voltage battery. As long as it passes the test, Lexus warranty the battery (only the HV one, not the 12V one) for 12 months and then you go for another one and so on until the car is 15 years old. If it was me, I would definitely go for it.

I'm not convinced it is a 'tow pack' as you call it, or at least not an official one. If it was, surely the wiring should be colour-coded rather than all white/black (which I think is usually the colour code used for Earth)?

It helps to regulate the charging current. If a battery is charged too quickly it can heat up too much, maybe buckling the plates and also causing too much gassing.

No, but I'll make a point of doing that tomorrow John, cheers.

I do know who Tom Finney is but to be honest I'm one of those strange males who cannot abide football. The roles are reversed in our household. When my wife is watching footie on the telly, I'm in the other half of the room with my headphones on going down the YouTube rabbit hole, usually (though not exclusively) watching music videos. I also act as chauffer when she and her mates are going to the club to watch the bigger matches, so I know what I'll be doing tomorrow

Thanks Paul. The fuse box is indeed in the passenger footwell and I found the DOME fuse (7.5A) which had blown. Unfortunately, the replacement also blew so I think I'm going to be making my first claim on this warranty to get the problem sorted.

5mph increments means that Radar Cruise Control is active. If you turn that off and go back to 'normal' Cruise Control then you get the 1mph increments back again.

Have you been living on Mars for the last two months Paul? These forums have been awash with talk of Lexus Relax and just how inferior it is to the normal extended warranty that we've all been used to. And that information they gave you is incorrect. I have a 'traditional' extended warranty in place that covers me until March 2024 and I have it in writing that it can indeed stand, which I am indeed going to allow it to do. The Relax scheme doesn't cover such things as multimedia head units, lights, or shock absorbers, all of which were or are covered under the traditional extended warranty. Members of these forums have had head units replaced (£3,000 plus), headlamp sealed units (£1,000 +/-) and shocks replaced previously but Relax doesn't cover these now. EDIT TO INCLUDE SCREENSHOT: This is from the Lexus official Facebook page:

Very overpriced, as are their fitting charges. A single front-facing camera is a very easy DIY job taking no more than half an hour, if that. If you don't want to DIY then any auto electrician will fit it for between about £30-£50. Viofo or Aukey cameras are very good, reasonably priced and work well, as well as being very small and discreet.

Very sad news indeed. I never had the pleasure of meeting him but like most of us, I've been very grateful for his help in the past and his knowledge was amazing. He will be sadly missed by all of us. R.I.P. Britprius, may your God go with you.

If you become a Gold Member of this club then some dealers will give various discounts. For instance, Lexus Teeside, where I bought my car, will give 20% off servicing parts, 10% off accessories, 25% off labour. Lexus Preston, where I live, give 15% discount on parts and labour. However, now that Lexus Relax has been thrust upon us and gives us a 12-month warranty with every service, I'm not sure if these discounts will still apply.

Putting that part number into Google returns this:

The high voltage traction battery will last 15 years but the normal 12V battery won't.

A photo of how it's currently fixed on there may help (and a general photo or two of the car would be nice as well) but it's usually just stuck on and you should be able to pry it off then tape it to the new battery. EDIT: OK, forget what I said about it being stuck on. It's a good job Colin's here

As Nigel says above, it can be done but it's not wise to do it. If things are working as they should, the radio will shut itself off after about 20-30 minutes to conserve 12V battery power, otherwise it'll just flatten it. Always put the car in P and READY mode. That way, you can listen to the radio indefinitely and the petrol engine will fire up as and when needed to keep the batteries charged. As an aside, don't use N. Either keep the car in D with your foot on the brakes when waiting for short periods at lights for instance, or for longer periods, maybe at railway crossings, put it in P, but don't use N because the traction battery will not charge when the car is in Neutral.

No, I'm not having that. When I got my first Lexus hybrid I just read the manual cover to cover because I'd never had a hybrid before and wanted to learn as much as I could about it. It's not difficult at all to read a manual and it really does contain most of what we need to know. However, I'm very much of the belief that males are genetically pre-programmed not to read manuals but to learn by poking buttons, flicking switches, and seeing what happens

In a nutshell, the new Relax warranty is good but not as good as the Extended Warranty that we've been used to for years. Relax doesn't cover things like shock absorbers or multimedia head units or headlight units, to name just three. All of these would have been covered on the old Extended Warranty. I have the old-style 'proper' one in place and I'm covered until March 2024 and I'm leaving it like that, after which I'll then be put on Relax unless something else happens in the meantime.

Only the latter can cause expensive damage if you're unlucky and the last three lines of Mincey's post above sum it up nicely. First and most important point to note is that the 12V battery on any car, conventional or hybrid, is only used to get the car started. Once the conventional alternator or the hybrid DC/DC Converter is running, that will supply all the 12V systems and also charge the 12V battery. When jump starting, the normal procedure is to start and run the engine of the donor car before attempting to start the recipient car. This is so that the recipient will draw current from the donor alternator (or DC/DC Converter) rather than the donor battery.* A hybrid car does not need a lot of current to get it into READY mode or if you prefer, to start the car. In a (very unscientific) test that I did, it would seem that around 20A is more than enough. A conventional car starter motor can draw upwards of 300A when cranking the engine, which is fine because alternators are designed to supply that demand. However, the DC/DC converter on a hybrid car cannot supply anywhere near that amount of current, which is why a hybrid must never be used to jump start a conventional car. I think there is some electronic wizardry within the converter to prevent excess current draw from it but if, for whatever reason, that failed, the converter would likely make a huge bang and produce lots of smoke. There is no danger in using a conventional car to jump start a hybrid, just never try it the other way round. *Given that hybrids take so little current to achieve READY mode, there is no need to have the engine of a hybrid donor car running and it wouldn't make a difference anyway.

As far as I know, it's not possible but I'm sure someone else will confirm either way.