Lwerewolf

Well, it's this season again... Over here temperatures are quite high, 35 celsius today. Inverter IGBT temperatures were approaching 80 degrees while cruising, the rest is mostly still the same - replaced the oil pump's bearings and the upshifts/downshifts are noticeably faster. 3.769 diff from Japan (nengun, yahoo auctions) soon-ish. Steam cleaned radiators, no change. The inverter coolant temperature is consistently 20-25 celsius over ambient, and doesn't seem to be affected - doesn't matter if you're doing 60-140-60-140 10 times in a row or you're just cruising along. Prime suspects - IGBT cold plate solder deterioration (pretty much means new inverter), inverter cooling channels blockage, insufficient pump flow/pressure, air lock, "car is performing to spec".

Just about every NiMH module that's not from an RX or an LS should fit - best practice is to use same generation modules due to potential differences in chemistries, but people have mixed modules with success. RX models use 9-cell modules, LS models use 12-cell modules. Don't know of any others that don't use 6-cell modules - assuming that it's not a Li-Ion model, of course. Since you mentioned cycling, load testing and etc - I guess you've read up on the subject. Put the highest capacity modules in the center - should ensure uniform degradation, as much as possible. If you want to get adventurous - people have rehydrated modules successfully, search priuschat. Good luck 🙂

The info is coming off of the workshop manuals, that should give you a hint 🙂

It's unknown what ultimately caused the overheat/blowup on my first inverter. My car throttles power under certain conditions, without codes: -mg2 in high gear -full throttle at 60kph (approx. lowest speed before it switches back to low gear) -hot weather (20+ celsius - certainly throttles down to 150bhp uphill, yes it's in kickdown, no the TC light isn't flashing) MG2 IGBTs reach 125+ celsius almost instantly (seen 140 with hybridassistant), and the inverter auto-throttles - you can read up on that on the openinverter forums, plenty of info. The conditions above cause the most stress on the MG2 IGBTs - overgeared, at a relatively low RPM (therefore inverter in PWM mode = more heat). The JDM and USDM 3rd gen gs450h use a 3.769 diff, the EU/AUS/Singapore/whatever one uses a 3.266. No other powertrain differences - same engines, inverters, transmissions, water pumps, etc. Could just be a case of engineering oversight, I guess. The JDM-only crown majesta 3.5 hybrid uses the same 3.266 diff, though... same with the 4th gen GS. No clue. Inverter coolant changed probably several times already, coolant cap as well. Water pump is running - not sure if its performance is degraded, or how to check that - nothing in the manual other than "turbulence = ok (yeah lol whatever)". Inverter coolant temperature hits up to 60 on the hottest (40+ celsius) summer days, so I guess the radiator itself is fine. Haven't blown my second inverter... yet. Have tried last summer (full throttle under those conditions, multiple times) - never ever tripped a code, the inverter overtemperature counter doesn't get set either. My first blowup... I think it occurred in exactly those conditions - full throttle at around 60kph after slowing down. Plan so far - somehow acquire a 3.769 rear diff (or a 2005+ gs430 3.6-something... or maybe an is350 4.1), replace coolant again, add redline diesel water wetter (supposedly surfactants only), replace water pump as it's 10 years old anyways. At any rate - GS inverter numbers should be interchangeable, but LHD models won't run with RHD inverters - and vice-versa. Repairing the inverter - once these blow up, just forget about it. An overhaul would be replacing the main cap (the bottom of the inverter), but Toyota won't sell it to you as an individual component. RHD inverters are relatively common, LHD not so much... Consider yourself lucky 🙂

35. Hope I'm proven wrong 😄

The ES has always shared underpinnings with the camry/avalon (K-platform - mostly FWD), nothing new here. It also sells very, very well... unlike the GS, which is rare even in the US, where they have certain very attractive engine options (cough is/gs350 cough). Not a GS replacement, they used to coexist... we'll see how the GS will go from here. I still have hopes.

dr. prius also shows a huge difference in voltage between modules during heavy current flow (full throttle or heavy regen). Not necessarily true or synchronized the way techstream is (if it is... but it has a separate data point called "difference highest->lowest" which I'm inclined to trust). Battery health is measured by capacity anyways, so I'd look at how the voltage difference rises while the car is in neutral, with AC and all power-drawing accessories on. It will at least give you an indication of a potential impending failure of a module pair (voltage is measured at every two 6-cell modules combined). Overall pack voltage doesn't mean much. Priuschat has plenty of discussion and info on this.

There's almost no good service and reliability information on the other comparable hybrids out there - it's one of the reasons why I went with the lexus, other than it being something other than an x-speed auto with an electric motor in there somewhere. An atkinson v6 would've been nice for the economy, I guess.

245/45/18 will rub according to reports, I think I've read that 235/45/18 are fine. Alternatively - the GS300/GS350 OEM 17'' wheels clear the 450h brakes (same as the 350/430/360 non-f-sport, stoptech bbk = 18''), and I have them as my winter set with 225/50/17 alpin 6. If a set of 17x8.5 volk ce28n shows up, I might jump and ditch the OEM rims... even though they look great 😞 The engine "idles" at 1000rpm, and the "higher pitch whine/noise" thing seems to be coming from the CVT - both the gs450h and ls600h have it, yet the is350/gs350/is-f/ls460/gs460 don't. FWD hybrids seem to lack it as well. Steering wheel retrofits are possible. The car is slower than the US version and has a higher max speed (270/275kph tested, not by me). Difference - different rear diff, 3.266 ratio EU vs 3.769 US/Japan. The EU gs430 diff is 3.6 or so, which should improve take-off performance noticeably. The 3.769 will have to be imported. If you're willing to modify the axles at the knuckle-ends, big flange diffs (with the axles) from supras/sc300/etc will fit. Look it up 🙂 MPG - I'm doing 28 during the winter, combined city/highway, rapid takeoffs but sticking to limits... mostly 😄 In case you hear a bang while entering a steep driveway or something: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2012/SB-10060742-2280.pdf ...same symptoms on ours (and lots of other cars), I was looking for the source for so long... can't gear it on the outside at all but on the inside it sounds scary. In my case I loosened up the bolts holding the sunroof rails to the roof - spec is 5nm and there were signs of work on the car by... questionably qualified individuals, given the soldered wiring harness repairs that I noticed (rear window stoplight). The nuts that hold it to the studs coming from the roof are still tight, no leaks, etc. Check out the front LCA big bushings mod - you can replace them with polyurethane ones or with the IS-F (hard rubber) or RC-F/GS-F (harder rubber) ones. The chassis are pretty similar - 2nd gen IS->3rd gen GS. The 4th gen GS/3rd gen IS haven't changed a lot at the front either. https://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/track-tests/2011-lexus-is-f-suspension-walkaround.html https://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/track-tests/2013-lexus-gs-350-f-sport-suspension-walkaround.html I have a 2009 (1st facelift, actually manufactured 07/2008, MY2009 bs) and there is an aux port in the storage compartment under the armrest. A retrofit may be possible. Alternatively, and potentially better - bluetooth/aux adapters posing as CD changers. There's also the grom vline, but I'd read the threads here and elsewhere about it. As always - https://www.toyodiy.com/ https://lexus-europe.epc-data.com/ Some 450h track footage: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT7bVjsJ5Q13iWkJr13-c8g https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QfK15NqkVVo Have fun 😉

My GS definitely does use physical brakes to adjust speed and maintain distance when in cruise mode. It even saved me from rear-ending somebody on the highway... Night time, cruise set at 120kph, limit is 140kph, right lane (LHD, right hand traffic), the car suddenly starts beeping and stops VERY violently... then I saw what looked like a lorry in front of me, moving at 60kph, never ever washed given that the rear was matte grey (including license plate and reflectors, if they were even present), and either overloaded or in need of suspension/alignment work. Re: the turbo lag - I always thought the GS was pretty tame at rural speeds unless you hit the kickdown... in my case it gradually builds up power if you almost floor it (i.e. full travel, no kickdown), regardless of selected drive modes. I kick it down briefly when I want it to pick up pace without being too obnoxious, just to help with the power transition 🙂 Regardless, glad to hear that you got your car back, in excellent condition no less 😉

If all you've had to do so far is hybrid battery recon... 🙂 Out of curiosity, what's so expensive about the center exhaust? I mean, unless you're missing the cats... Every hybrid model can have those issues, the 3rd gen GS appears to be more "vulnerable"... at least according to anecdotal evidence. At least it uses the 6-cell modules that are used by every other toyota hybrid, unlike the RX (9-cell riveted) and LS600h (12-cell). You can take advantage of the hybrid battery check & extended warranty on the new ones. Don't expect a 14 year old car to be trouble-free, no matter the brand - even the ls400 can get expensive 🙂

No. Battery codes = hybrid system failsafe/limp/etc - no torque fill, engine always on, "sluggish" (there's still a lot of power in the GS, the delivery is severely delayed though), info screen shows no power flow. There's a "hybrid system overheat" message that the car can display. What are the exact codes? Re: the pump - I recall reading instances in several places where the pump was causing issues without throwing codes. Re: battery fan - there's only one, you can access it by removing the top/center trim in the trunk... well, that and several pieces of plastic ducting. I haven't removed the filter itself yet.

Only when you ease off the throttle... try driving in "sports" gear mode (S-mode, next to D), this keeps the engine on. When the engine switches off, the auxiliary oil pump in the transmission runs to maintain oil pressure for the MG2 2speed auto. If you're clearing the codes via a reader (which you shouldn't do - the state it's in when these codes are set protects the battery to an extent), it might be this... if the HV battery codes are present, the engine always runs, the info screen shows no power flow and regen braking is disabled, amongst other things. In other words, might be a failing pump.

Sounds like a thread for the detailing section 🙂 If it's not an outright tear, it's probably damaged topcoat - can be restored. I have no clue what products (dyes) are good, who's selling what, etc. I'd also look into replacing the seat foam underneath.

Ehh, just a quick update on the optimistic p0420/p0430 in my case - they're back. It seems the ECU sets a lower failure threshold immediately after a memory wipe, the exact thresholds and mechanics are not clear ("toyota confidential" or whatever). Sorry if I got anybody's hopes up on that one.

Ouch, inverter... I just did this on a LHD car - it's the bank 1 sensor in my case, should be similar. Disconnect battery service fuse, disconnect 12v, wait ~30 minutes, remove inverter top cap, remove the small lid on the sides (2 screws, it has a gasket and a circuit breaker so it doesn't just lift off - do it slowly and carefully), measure voltage at the terminals (max - 650v, you want 0v). If 0v - proceed, if not - wait. Disconnect the MG1 & MG2 cables (the 2 big AC ones at the front) - side screws first, then the middle. They are heavily waterproofed, so draw them out carefully. Remove the water lines towards the inverter - the front one at any rate... you might want or have to remove the reservoir with the rad cap - on LHD cars it's not near the inverter. Your call, just make sure that coolant doesn't spill on any electrical connections - plug/seal everything off once you disconnect it. Then there's the inverter bracket, and probably the EPS (power steering) ECU on or below it... and a nasty plastic uhh "clip" holding a bracket to the plastic protective casing around the wires that go from/to the HV battery - I don't remember how we got it out with the mechanic, but it wasn't damaged, so... improvise 🙂 After all of that, the o2 sensor was visible - a torque wrench did fit, in case you want to bother to torque it to spec (gs300 is 40 or 44nm, same sensors). AFAIK the service manual for the hybrid calls for the removal of the engine and the transmission - at least on the lhd ls600h it does specify that. The GS300 LHD one calls for the removal of the battery (which is where the inverter is on these cars) and the power steering ECU... so there's that 😛 The inverter water pump runs ~20sec after the car gets into "ready" mode - Techstream can also start it when in "IG ON" (double press "power" without holding brakes). The service manual says something along the lines of filling it to level (by opening the bleed port on the front of the hybrid radiator and, if LHD, next to the inverter, attaching see-through hoses to them, and fiilling with SLLC until the reservoir is full), and then to run the pump in 30sec intervals, topping off as needed. The 4th gen (and just about all other hybrids) is way, way better in this regard... Good luck if you haven't done it already. Weirdly enough, in my case, before the o2 codes I had both p0420 and p0430 (cat codes) - checked for exhaust leaks (blocked exhaust on the rear, visual inspection for soot all over the place, replaced catback with new OEM one, removed heat shields post the secondary O2s as preventative measure, replaced all gaskets post-headers), did the oxygen storage test (forced lean/rich mixture in techstream - the rear o2s reacted with >2sec. delay, so all "good"), etc... then my bank 1 AFR (o2) started giving codes ("stuck lean", then progressed to 3 others, I suspect the heater circuit shorted, the waveform was fluctuating wildly, and the heater is PWM controlled - hence my guess - in the end, the heater circuit went open), new one arrived, changed on the same day, expected cat codes... two days later and 6 trips (cold start, hot start, sloooow city driving, highway driving, etc, checked emissions readiness results after every one of them - cats were measured each time, slightly jittery results as expected), no codes. No clue how a single AFR threw off the mixture or whatever on both banks - maybe the ECU was throwing off the MAF calibration or something...

The 2GR in the Lotus cars doesn't look bad with regards to oil pressure... or at least the stock 2GR doesn't: https://wilhelmraceworks.com/2gr-oil-pressure (this is on a mk2 MR2 with a 2GR conversion - love these things) ...assuming that Lotus uses the same pan & pickup. This is for transvere mounted engines. The 2UR-GSE has a scavenging system to get oil back to the pan from the heads, and I haven't heard of any oil pressure issues on them either, not that I've looked much... the catch can for the crankcase ventilation is the only thing that's often mentioned. Toyota has put superchargers on the 2GR before - including on the FSE. Check this beauty: https://www.tomsracing.co.jp/sv/products/parts/detailseng.php?mprID=279 I remember seeing a topic about this particular kit here - somebody'd imported an IS350 (not sold in the EU along with the GS350 for whatever stupid reason...) and put it on... Incidentally, a Mark X model was officially sold with this exact supercharger setup (JDM-only, of course) - only the engine cover logo differed. Actually, most Toyota engines have had supercharger offerings from TRD/TTE/etc... Superchargers are not necessarily "bad" for fuel economy - plenty of examples around.

I'll be surprised if it isn't a larger "dynamic force" implementation. v35a: https://toyota-club.net/files/faq/19-09-10_faq_df_v6_eng.htm - no "hot V" there... same general concepts like the a25a. Not sure how much leeway the F-badge can get. Still hoping for a next gen NA offering...

This is what should be done. There was way too little ATF in my case - had to add at least 1.5l.

They were philips on mine as well, I used hex screws from my blown inverter and they fit perfectly. In my case the bearings were still turning ok, turned out the ATF wasn't adjusted properly. I've got the somewhat quiet "chirp chirp" sound while the pump is running now, so I guess it's due time for a change...

Water beading does not mean protection. I'd be more concerned with swirl protection - both from the coating or whatever, and the wash method. I'm pretty sold on ONR but I have a silver metallic car so I don't think I can give you any proper opinion on that 😄 I'd check the car upon delivery - if it needs polishing, either do everything at once, or wait until the weather allows a full decon/polish (well, the polish does decon 😄 ) and then coat it with whatever you'd like. In the meantime, your choice of "heavy duty" sealant + a spray of Sonax BSD or whatever after every winter wash 🙂

Car model? Have they measured runout on the rotor and on the hub? Have they matched them for minimum runout? Is the mating surface clean?

Ehh… I'm pretty sure there's a viscosity difference between T-IV and WS. If I recall correctly, ATF-WS (and other similar fluid specs) was introduced due to "environmental" concerns - primarily fuel economy and extended oil change intervals. Less viscosity = less friction, theoretically. At any rate, ATF-WS goes for 43 euros for the 4l package. I'd just get it. Not saying that Westway is bad or anything. Read and follow Mihanicos's advice, the information is straight out of the service manual for these codes. With regards to the engine running - keep the transmission in S (sport) mode (I just noticed that I wrote D mode in my first post - sorry). The engine won't automatically turn on in S mode, but it will keep it running if it does start. Main problem - if you start the car hot, you have to do heel-and-toe or left foot braking to make the engine run immediately in order to not trigger the failsafe (throttle in park mode makes the engine "rev" somewhat, unless it's force-charging the battery - then it ignores your throttle). Another problem - as soon as you hit reverse or anything other than S, and the engine switches off, same thing. Easily caused by reversing. You can go into maintenance mode to get around this: http://carspecmn.com/putting-your-toyota-prius-into-maintenance-mode-getting-the-engine-to-stay-running/ ...same procedure for all Toyota/Lexus hybrids. Make sure your parking brake is engaged 🙂 At any rate, if you do use maintenance mode - I think ABS is the only safety system that will still function, and then only somewhat. No traction or stability control. No "fake" LSD (dabbing brakes on spinning wheel). Reduced power (I think it forces MG2 into high gear, not entirely sure). Very easy to spin the wheels, and you won't notice due to the CVT... and the speedo is slow to react. The warnings about inverter failure do have a merit, even though I don't personally know of any such cases... and people have been doing stupid things. In other words, don't mess around in it 🙂 https://cleantechnica.com/2019/11/02/motor-control-101/

@Upex Not bizarre, read the above. You're in traffic, engine is fully warmed up, does its ISC learning and shuts off. Auxiliary pump doesn't work >> no pressure >> codes and unready. The codes forced the engine to run constantly, clearing them made this situation possible. If you get battery codes, it's the same thing - it refrains from stressing it (only uses it to start the engine - no torque fill or anything), thereby preserving it as much as possible. Transmission ATF fluid replacement (no it's not a belt-driven CVT) instructions here: https://slideplayer.com/slide/14432904/ ...it's for the ls600h but the transmission is almost the same. Realistically you might need around 5l if you drop the pan and also flush the oil cooler lines with compressed air. Read this: http://carlthomas66.blogspot.com/2016/03/lexus-gs450h-transmission-oil-pump.html Related: More recent: Same thing over at clublexus: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-3rd-gen-2006-2011/918554-06-gs4560h-problem.html Another clublexus thread covering this: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/hybrid-technology/853851-p2797-with-subcode-865-on-2008-gs-450h.html The ATF-WS covers everything - viscosity, detergents, friction modifiers, anti wear additives (if any), etc. I don't think you can go wrong with Toyota's own (lexus is the same). I run Amsoil FE in mine, others are running redline in their prius, there's one over at clublexus running Ravenol CVT (yup) currently, another is running Ravenol's ATF-WS equivalent... etc, etc. Toyota's is probably the safest bet. I haven't heard of an outright transmission failure on these cars (other than the famous external oil pump bearings)

The auxiliary oil pump runs when the engine is off, or when additional pressure is required (the "gear shifts") - i.e when the main (engine input shaft driven) oil pump can't supply pressure. Combine that with the car running the engine at startup to warm it up to 40c (unless it's already warm) + cold weather forcing the engine to run for heat (unless it's over 65c or so - depending on heat settings) + the engine wanting to calibrate its idle after warming up "fully" (which requires almost a complete stop for several seconds - in case you're wondering why the engine sometimes runs with the heat off and the energy display showing nothing) + the engine always running above a certain speed (say, 40mph)... I guess you're getting the picture of what's going on 😉 If you leave the car in D mode, the engine won't switch off. If the limp mode for those codes keep the engine running, it should have the same effect, albeit with probably reduced "punch". Get the exhaust fixed, examine the area around the breakage & the transmission's oil pump (and its harness) for any visible damage, proceed from there. Probably the bearings.