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Selective door unlocking setting must have changed. It can be modified using this method in your vehicle:

Bird droppings are a one big nightmare, however I always carry a bottle of No Rinse Shampoo around with me and have dealt with a few dropping this way whilst away with no issues. Another great product to have on you is Gtechniq W8 bug remover. Essentially what you need to do is soak the affected area and let the liquid emulsify it, there are many products that will work better than just water. Let it really soak for longer until you think about removing it abrasively. Depending on what the ***** has eaten this may require compounding later but depending on the condition of your paintwork you might be better off leaving it as it will become less noticeable with every wash.

+1 to this, other options will only appear once you're following a navigated road as it's unable to predict until it's en route.

I'm on the same boat as yourself, I did read somewhere in one of the posts on the forum (There are now 4 threads regarding this topic) that Lexus shall refund the warranty cost on a pro-rata basis however I'd like to see how proactive they will be at doing that.

Is he trying to double charge that car? What's plugged into the lorry? By the way... How many signs is enough to designate a Tesla parking spot?

Sorry if this isn't going to help but I have found a manual extract for your exact year and it seems that the procedure is slightly different to the one mentioned above. Seeing that you didn't get a beep then maybe the key pairing hasn't worked properly yet? You say one has been successfully remembered, but have you always had it paired to setting 1 or have you set it between 1 & 2? I remember it working correctly on the earlier LS430 model however this may not be the same in your gen. Are the keyfobs at all different from each other?

So what happens to those that have taken out the Extended Warranty recently and instead of a refund would like to run it until the end? If I take my car for its next service which will automatically trigger the Lexus Relax will my extended warranty be overwritten? Looking at the list of inclusions I'm most worried about the shock absorbers as they have previously came up as "advisable replacement" about 15k miles ago during the service, something I've been told did not yet require replacement as there was only "slight misting" observed on the shocks.

AFAIK there are no limitations as every key can be assigned to a position on the 1-3 memory recall. Although a model up this is the instruction for the GS in the owner's manual.

No problem at all, hopefully you're able to source one at a good price? Sometimes if you can't find the specific part you can search for "Lexus IS220d Breaking" and contact scrapyards? They normally offer best rates however they don't list all components available so it may take a little time to find the right part. Replacing it should not cause fob issues as keyfob decoding is done by the Certification ECU situated in the boot. Hope you get this sorted, what a nightmare!

What these guys are selling is indeed allowed to be used on UK roads just like any other power assisted bicycle. It is classed as a bike as it only boasts a nominal power output of 250W and does not exceed speeds of 18mph, provided that those scary looking pedals do actually allow you to drive the wheels through manual input. The current state of the UK law forbids any privately owned electric scooter to be legally allowed on the road, that includes all these used by youngsters in virtually every town I see. The only way for anyone to currently ride one is to use one of the rental companies running trials, this requires them to ensure a few measures are in place such as minimum riders age, speed limit and no pavement riding. It's very bizarre how long the UK is taking to catch up with the rest of the modern countries to adapt laws regarding E-Scooters. They're an absolutely great alternative to the more conventional mode of transport and I for one would like to see more of an effort to legalise these on our roads.

Exactly the answer I needed, thank you very much!

That's a shame although I wasn't holding out too much hope. So it sounds like we might have a problem with either the Main ECU or the Power Source Control ECU. Regardless of the clutch switch which inputs a signal into your Main ECU, as long as the Power SW sends a signal to the Power Source Control which then activates the Main ECU supply it should engage accessories/ignition without attempting to start the engine. Seeing that you can see illumination on the switch means we have the 12V supply going there. Question now is what happens between there and the power source control. Depending on how confident you are in reading the above you can trace the signal coming from the power switch to check if it is indeed arriving at the power source control. The diagram below should help with locating the ECU inside your vehicle. Here's another snippet that shows what happens inside the power switch: These documents are all available on https://cardiagn.com/ all you need to do is find the desired model and search through the library. I hope this gives you a little more to work with?

Regarding Techstream, how do you get access to it in the UK? Authorised establishment or cracked online versions? There's also Carista, I haven't used it on a Lexus but I've had it working very well on Subaru/Toyota. All you need is a bluetooth dongle and a smartphone.

This does indeed sound like a strange occurrence. Seeing that you have a fob, have you tried the immobiliser reset procedure? I can't quite remember the specifics but this is what I found online. Get out of the vehicle. Lock the car with the key fob or lock the driver’s door with the key. Leave the vehicle parked for at least 5 minutes. Press unlock on the keyfob to unlock the car. Don’t open any doors yet. Remove the emergency key from the key fob and lock/unlock the driver’s door three times. Now enter the vehicle and start the engine. If your car has Start/Stop button, press the button with your keyfob, not your finger. I'm sorry if this is something you've tried already but it sounds like there is not much of an electrical issue but something is locking out your car.

Thank you all for your kind replies! Not a necessary step, however I wanted to remove the seal completely during the install and be able to hide the wires somewhere out of the way. Alternatively there's enough room around the glovebox but you have to get creative with finding a good connection for the neutral wire. What's hidden underneath the trim pieces will not need to be touched again unless the DC converter fails. You can get to the fuses by simply removing the one plastic piece sitting underneath the glovebox, including the piggyback fuse installed for this. I should have attached a picture of that in situ actually. Pretty much, I work in the High Voltage world and picked up the line during my apprenticeship up north. The pet peeve comes from my old weekend job during school as an aeroplane seat fitter, you put your hands where you eyes can't see and 9/10 times cut them on a badly cut tie.

+1, hence Onyx. PPF is the new wax.

Mrs -Error- has recently started a new job which now requires a sporadic 30+ mile commute. I have decided to give her a piece of mind and install a dashcam in case the unfortunate happens. I have noticed a lack of up-to-date information on how to hardwire a dashcam into these so I thought I'll take a few pictures and share my experience whilst at it. Materials: Nextbase 380GW - decided on the least distracting and proven camera. They have not got the best reliability reputation but produce very decent footage, have a broad network of users ensuring app compatibility with most recent smartphones and most importantly really are the best looking cameras out there IMO. Nextbase hardwire kit - yes you can just get any amazon special which will set you back anything between £10-£15, but this kit will be designed to output the specific power for your camera and I'd argue it's of much better quality (just look at the wire thickness in both. 128GB SD Card Replacement Fuse(more on this later) Plastic Tie-wraps/Zip Ties/Cable Ties Electrical Tape Tools: Plastic Trim Removers - not a necessity, can be done by hand. Side Cutters Long Nose Pliers 10mm Spanner/Socket Okay, here we go. Start with disconnecting the 12V Auxiliary Battery (this can be found in the boot on the right hand side, unlike some other Lexus models this one you have to really go on a treasure hunt to discover without referring to the manual). Always remember - disconnect the negative BLACK first, remove red shrouding, then positive RED. Tuck your wiring away safely. Work your way back connecting RED first, replace plastic shrouding, connect BLACK. Open the front passenger door. Start by removing the door sill trim that holds the rubber seal in place. The whole trim just unclips, try to gently apply more and more upward pressure until the four clips give way. Too fast and you may snap them. Remove footwell cover that will provide access to the fusebox as well as removal of further pieces. This is held in by three metal retention clips and will come off with gentle persuasion. Apply downward force until they clip out, try starting from the right. Once the clips let go remove it by pulling towards the seat, they sit in two locating holes which you will use later to align it for replacement. Remove the plastic trim/wiring loom shield that sits between the footwell and the door. To remove it - unscrew a thumb screw inside the footwell(Pictured) and then pull outward. This will also start the process of removing the seal, pull the whole seal out if you fancy it, or enough to comfortably rest the trim piece outside of the car and exposing the entire A pillar trim - your choice. WARNING - Seal is applied with sealing grease - this stuff loves to get on your fingers and make everything less clean than before. Next is the A pillar trim - be careful here as it houses the curtain airbag and is the reason why we disconnected the 12V battery previously. There are two clips holding it in place, start by slowly pulling the trim piece towards the middle of the windscreen, hold the upper part and wait for the first clip in the middle to come out. Second clip is the safety retention clip designed to enable the airbag to deploy without the whole piece flying into your face during a crash, use long nose pliers to twist it 90 degrees and free it from the trim piece, this clip stays in the A pillar. This is the trickiest moment but also the last piece to be removed. Once the clip is out it is very easy to remove the piece. WARNING - Sealing grease is still around - careful where you put your hands. Start by taping up the positive & negative wires together and poke them down through the opening in the dash, you will find these wires loose around the fusebox you uncovered in the footwell. Once you have done that, start by measuring out your perfect camera placement - I used a portable battery bank connected to the camera via USB to get a live feed and ensure I am 100% happy with the placement - no need for re-sticking later! Camera base could be then stuck to the windscreen. Starting from the same dash opening, grab the USB end of the power supply cable and loosely run it around the airbag wiring looms ensuring it will not stand in the way in any place. The wiring surprisingly flies right underneath the roof lining - something I didn't foresee as an easy task. Connect the cable to the base and work your way back, leaving minimum slack in the wire and fastening the cable to the existing looms with cable ties. All slack will be lost down in the footwell. Tea break. Use the free estate around the footwell to lose your extra cable length. Opt to make as few loops as possible, it's not good for electronics. Using my technique as example, beware, the door sill trim has little plastic pillars that sit on the metalwork, I carefully bent and secured the wiring there to ensure those tiny pillars do not directly sit on the wiring once everything is back in its place. The DC converter itself(small black module with wires coming out of it) can sit behind the plastic trim piece around the wiring loom sockets, there's ample space there for heat dissipation. Open up the fusebox and use a fuse piggyback for hassle free and interference free install. This is the reason I decided not to use the overhead wiring as supply - it allows me to perform intrusion free installation where all OEM wiring remains intact and untapped. It's much less hassle and there's a smaller room for errors and fire. Choose an appropriate power source to piggy back off - I decided to go with the 15A Power Outlet 2 in the top right corner of the fuseboard - it is switched by ignition and is not a safety critical feature. Should the piggy back become loose during driving as it sits dangling down it will not disrupt critical parts of the working systems in the car. This is where the replacement fuses go into play - the piggyback fuse pack does not cater for replacing the existing fuse which will be too short to be placed in the holder of the Nextbase Hardwire Kit. Halfrauds will stock them for above average price, eBay businesses will sort you out with a cheap set. Your local motorist specialist will have the exact part at competitive prices and you're helping them stay afloat whilst sticking it to the man! I used the M8 bolt near the wiring loom socket for my -GND connection, ideally I would've drilled and tapped a part of the chassis not to interfere with anything structural, but it was perfectly placed and I was out of tap&dye so it did me perfectly. It doesn't interfere with much and can be neatly tucked away. I might come back to this and relocate, but probably won't. LOOSE WIRES CAUSE FIRES, cable ties are your friends - use as many as you like to secure your wiring, I like to use the existing looms as anchorage. Use flush cut pliers to snip your ends and ensure whoever works on these wires in the future doesn't cut themselves on sharp edges, a little pet hate of mine. Once your wiring is all secure, time to start replacing your trim pieces, start with the A pillar and for Pete's sake mind the grease. Everything works in reverse. Position your trim piece on the dash first, ensuring you have chosen the right slot for the mounting, then use your pliers to reinstate the safety retention clip. Push the trim back into place until you hear a satisfying click of the last clip. Replace the rubber seal together with the plastic trim still attached, locate that thumb screw and secure the piece again. Footwell fuse cover can go back on, use two guide plastic bits to slot them into the back of the footwell and push back until three clicks secure it firmly in place. Replace the door sill cover, be careful that if you have placed your wiring there it does not get in the way of those tiny plastic pillars, you will hear if there's anything stopping it from clipping back in place. 12V Battery back on just like we spoke earlier. RED, SHROUD, BLACK. Et Voila! Switch the ignition on when you're ready and embrace your new camera! PS. To remove seal stains use a good All Purpose Cleaner such as this one at a 1:10 dilution ratio with water. Apply using a spray bottle directly onto affected areas and agitate with a soft bristle brush, remove with a microfibre cloth. It will all come out, see?

That doesn't look too bad - could you have a little bit of a closer look there? It's been a long time since I last saw a GSF and that looks like a clear bra to me that has been applied on top. In this situation you could just replace the existing film with new protection. https://onyxautomotive.co.uk/ have a good reputation as far as my memory takes me.

Great vehicle choice there! My F Sport runs the same Potenza's although the rears are slightly wider in my model at 265mm. Can confirm they are definitely on the louder side however I believe that's more to do with the size of the contact patch. I had the rears replaced last year and have not noticed a change in sound level so they don't seem to get louder with wear. Cardiff Lexus have managed to downgrade me to a lower Bridgestone Potenza model during my last tyre change on the fronts however - from RE050A to S001's - I have noticed a slight overall grip level change however they are quieter. What tyre size and model do you currently have? Overall, an overinflated tyre is thought to be the quieter one as opposed to an under inflated rubber. If it has been neglected and over inflated for a while it may have caused the rubber to experience plastic deformation - which although I am yet to experience myself, could have an effect on the tyre performance. It may be worth searching through online results to find a better/quieter alternative as long as that is a cost effective option for yourself. Personally, I'd wait until it was time to change the tyres and see if the new ones improve your ride quality.

Hi @westo3, just like Paul says. There are four jacking points dedicated to be used with the emergency scissor jack found in the boot. These are situated at the seams underneath the rocker panel. The manual unfortunately only shows jacking points for heavy duty lifts at the front and back of the vehicle. If you look underneath there will be two notches about two inches apart on either corner of the vehicle, something like this: This is where you will insert your emergency jack to lift the car up. Edit: No need to remove anything, just make sure that you slightly loosen your wheel nuts before lifting the car up in the air - especially if you're planning to work on the front of the vehicle. Little safety note - at minimum, whilst working on a car without using any extra axle stands, place your removed wheel underneath your car in an event of your scissor jack giving in. It will stop the car from coming crushing down. A damaged alloy will be the slightest of your worries should this happen.

+1 to that, it sorted my issue with caller ID. Sometimes it's best if you unpair your phone and factory reset the head unit. It forces it to re-download the phonebook. I have no issues in 2016 CT&GS now with my Note10+ & S20

Although I own a GS300h it's because it ticked all the right boxes for me - the car was bought for comfort and not for performance (at least in 0-60 terms), the GS450h was my initial target. During my hunt in 2019 I have also driven an ES300 in the Takumi spec. I'll quickly talk about the 300h vs 450h The V6 is definitely a more enjoyable drivetrain - both GS and RX that I have driven (RX very extensively) had the most recent hybrid and transmission generations available which have come leaps and bounds. My mother has owned every single hybrid RX so I had good comparison and although the fuel consumption is not your best friend in a nearly 3 tonne vehicle it drives so quickly when it wants to, you almost forget the weight of the car whilst it's in Sport+. The sound that V6 makes has finally been perfected by Lexus and every time I get back in the 300h I long for that sound note. It will always be a superior power unit. With regards to GS vs ES sound note aside - you will achieve astonishing MPGs if you drive reasonably, something even the GS300 will not match being a hybrid generation lower. The ES still doesn't let you fit long items via folding seats separation therefore your transportation abilities are just as limited. The interior sound deadening is even better - something even my F sport GS with fat tyres around the back does pretty well at. The technological step up is great with Android Auto vs the awful built in infotainment on the GS. Mark Levinson sound processing is much better in the ES, on par with same year RX but better than any GS, I suspect it's due to upgraded DAC but the sound is just so much crispier in the newer ES. As someone who travels long distance on motorways regularly I prize a good infotainment over many other creature comforts and must say I wish there were GS models made with the same system as the ES, if you spend a lot of time in London traffic that may also be another selling point for the ES. Button layout on the centre console and overall interior material quality I must say are better in the GS, I do not like the new "plush" feeling steering wheel and the F sport seats on the GS felt better than Takumi ES. The leather is different and in my opinion of worse quality, feels more synthetic. Although heated steering wheel on the ES is a nice bonus, they were only available on the premier GS in that half leather half wood finish - not my cup of tea. So there are many choices. If you would like to stay with the V6, I would either suggest finding "The Unicorn" GS or seriously considering one of the newer RX's, as long as you don't mind the size and driveability it's the best package available - great power unit and best interior by far, well maybe after the latest LS. If you'd prefer the saloon but don't mind the step down in power units - ES is a great option especially the 2021 facelifted model. It looks different to the aggressive styling of the GS but it is definitely a looker. Plus it will boast the latest tech inside - that's a great advantage over the ageing GS. Edit: Upon reflection you do get the folding ski flap in the ES, pardon me. Still no folding seats.

I'm confused. Thought it was Up-Up-Down-Down-Left-Right-Left-Right-B-A to unlock the extra gears.

I find it ironic that whilst living in South Wales majority of the Lexus' we owned in the family have been purchased up north. Last two came from Bolton and Blyth.

I'll throw my story from last year. A relative looking for the next Lexus - found the exact model she wanted in Bristol, spoke to the dealership and everything sounded right so I nudged her to book a visit and a test drive. The sales person was very helpful with sorting out the paperwork, the process of part-exchange and a good deal on the new car. We also got told about the only previous owner on this approved dealer vehicle (Lexus Bristol is ran by Motorline) and were assured that it is in great condition as the owner upgraded to a new model. Turns out that the guy has not inspected the car itself - it has gone through the Lexus 100-odd point check and passed with flying colours. When we arrived and I took a look around the car I started spotting a few undisclosed surprised - there was a deep scratch running through the rear door&fender - it was polished out but still very clear to see, the armrest leather was worn out to the point of tearing - the guy promised to order a replacement free of charge. Then I noticed the front bumper was slightly misaligned with the DRLs, upon our test drive the steering did not feel 100% accurate so I decided to take a look under the bonnet - noticed the crash bar styrofoam was slightly chipped, a sign that the bumper was removed and not replaced properly(or worse, has suffered other types of damage). Something that a trained apprentice could have avoided. The bonnet then sprang back open whilst on our way back to the dealership. These were some obvious signs of damage to the front end of the vehicle that even the dealer had not noticed during handover or disclosed. When challenged, the salesman used a few cover arguments and tried to convince us that no body panel is ever perfectly aligned and there is nothing wrong with the vehicle. It's fair to say that we didn't end up buying this lemon and have not been back to Bristol since. I vote for personal inspection prior to purchase - or delivery if you are not worried about timescales of handing the vehicle back and having to cancel the purchase and waiting for the funds to be returned.