gsportcars

Glad to see this is getting sorted in the end mate! I think the main prob with the kit is from the manufacturer as it doesn't fit as it should from the word go. Dave has found one way round it and my tuners found another way. I think with the lack of help from turbo-kits.com on this for both me and Elliot it is clear to see that they aren't bothered about there products quality etc etc. Anyway, hurry up and get it on the road, you will be a happy chappy!!!

Is there a difference in rating/stiffness between the red and yellow ARB's? I have the red ones on.

Apologies guys!! I have been messing about with the wee man, and other things about the house etc etc that I haven't had time to get the progress posted!! Anyway we got the car running and did a bit of mapping! after 3 3rd gear full throttle runs and 1 4th gear full throttle run everything was fine until.............. I slowed down and the car started filling with smoke ........... We stoppped and I jumped out with the fire extinguisher ready for action!! It turned out to be an oil leak from which I thought was the sump as I had already removed the sump. I now had to strip the lower section of the car. I removed the steering rack along with a few other bits to get the front subframe dropped and that gave me access to the sump! after removing the sump and stripping and re-sealing it I realized that the sump wasn't the problem. It was the crank shaft oil seal!!! I ordered the parts from toyota including another timing belt as it was covered in oil too. After fitting and a test run There has been no leak so far! The car had about 20mins mapping done before the oil leak appeared and I have a short vid of the car after the crank shaft seal was sorted! The car is still cutting out and only just comes on full boost before doing so. I will be posting new pics and vid very soon!!!!! http://media.putfile.com/isupra http://media.putfile.com/MOV00149-95 The car is away getting some cosmetic changes at the minute so pics will follow too!

I don't think they will fit without arch mods in that offset. I have 235's on with I think a 43-45 offset and they just fit and no more. They originally rubbed but I got 2mm shaved of each wheel to bring them in a bit and they are fine now. If you add another 10-20mm on they should deffo rub the arches!

Elliot is the turbo I sold you in the kit only a T25??? I had my doubts about this at one stage when I first bought the kit. Reason being is that the turbo that is supplied with the standard kit from turbo-kits.com is a T25. At the time I ordered, I told them I wanted to upgrade it to the T28BB turbo. I got charged for the upgrade too!!!! It was when I sent the turbo back to them that I questioned whether it was a BB turbo as it didn't seem to me to be one. I was assured that it was the T28BB turbo. It is becoming quite obvious to me that turbo-kits.com are a bunch of lying f***ers. That is why I advertised it as a T28 turbo and not a T28BB. This also makes me wonder if they have been supplying Dave (pro-lex) with the correct turbo?? Did you ever contact them turbo-kits.com again about the probs with the oil in the turbo???

I also have a full engine that you can have the head from if need be! for a small fee of course;-)

Selling!!! That would be such a shame mate. as already said you should at least give it a chance when it is finally done to see if you change your mind. The other down point about selling is that you know you will never sell it for what it is really worth which is always the case with modified cars like this. at least it is getting resolved in the end anyway mate.

It's the offset that can be the problem when you want a nice deep dish. The IS has a high off set. The higher the offset the smaller the dish. I think Mr.Singh has very wide rears on and his are staggered fitment. I have looked into this myself and only certain designs of wheel will suit what you are after.

This is a c-west bumper modified to look similar to the skyline front. I quite like it...

Might not benefit immediately right enough but always a better option than the oil cooler. although I do think some suspension, ARB's etc would deffo be a wise decision.

no need for the oil cooler unless you are constantly giving your car a hard time for prolonged periods. Go for the intercooler. It will benefit you way more than the oil cooler.

PM recieved thanks mate. Still pondering over this as I really don't want to make the wrong choice. I think it is down to either ordering the genuine C-west from takakiara or buying the vertex from Dave. I would prefer the C-west as it is the nicest looking IMO but then the vertex may work out cheaper and be here quicker....... decisions decisions.....

Adie where did you get your bumper from?? How much did you pay after delivery, vat etc etc if you don't mind me asking. Oh and how long did it take to arrive? I had a look on taka kiara there and the genuine C-west is only about £260 to buy but that is before shipping and vat. I would gues it would be closer to £5-600 by the time it gets to me. I also tried the link in that ebay ad but the website hasn't been uploaded yet. it looked promising though as they use the flexi-glass which seems to be the new standard now.

I don't mind the Legana but it is getting very common and on a lot of altezzas. I like the top secret one but the HKS one seems a bit to big and bulky although I haven't seen it in the flesh.

I am hoping some one can help me out here. On 14th Dec 06 I placed an order with POTN for a C-west replica front bumper. It was to be delivered from the states within 4-6weeks. Needless to say it never arrived in the uk for over 3 months. After that it took POTN 2weeks to get the bumper on a lorry on it's way to me in N.Ireland. Then the courier company managed to loose it on the boat from Birmingham to Belfast. How this happened is anyones guess as it isn't exactly a small package. After MANY MANY phone calls to POTN, I was told that the insurance claim for the missing delivery had came through and if I wanted to order another bumper then it would arrive within 4 weeks. I was told this about 2-3 weeks ago. I have just rang them today to get some tracking information and have been told that the shipment has still not left the states yet and it will be another 4-5weeks before it arrives in the UK. I told the sales rep to shuv the bumper somewhere that it would never be found again and to refund my money. To say I am angry about this is like saying Stevie wonder can't see all that well Anyway, rant over..... I am now looking for a new bumper to fit to the car. I am open to all suggestions but it has to be a full bumper and not a bumper extension etc as the standard one simply doesn't fit over the intercooler. I want something fairly simple and not over the top but it must have a big opening for the cooler. Here is the one I had ordered... If I could get one of these quickly enough I would be happy but it ain't looking likely. Oh, and you have been warned about POTN. They are a bunch of useless ******** who can't return phone calls.

Thanks guys, that sorts the prob of the tacho wire but it doesn't show a wire for the temp sensor??? Any ideas??? :duh:

Always looks very smart does the TRD kit. Nice job!!!

Guys I have got the supra engine running but I have no temp signal or rev counter on my dash. I am gonna run a wire from temp sensor to the dash and run another wire from the Autronic SM4 which has a tacho output to the rev counter. I need to know which wires to splice into in the connection blocks that plug into the standard speedo/clocks. Anyone who has the wiring diagrams for this would be of great help. Thanks.

Yeah mate i thought about engine rebuild and higher boost and after looking into it and getting some quotes for parts etc etc I decided otherwise. It is a lot of money to spend to end up having limited results due to the lack of strength in the gearbox etc etc. Don't get me wrong though as I think what you have done with your car is fantastic and it is of course unique in it's own right. Just a shame you are having such a hard time with it at the minute but as you can see, mine isn't all plain sailiing either LOL.

The part that Mikecox is talking about I think is the air intake for the standard airbox. The bit that extends to the front grille. Just on that point that you mention about the standard intake manifold Elliot, I also heard a rumour Dave was looking at that problem. Well It really isn't a problem unless your are running high boost on a turbo'd IS. I wouldn't be sure it would hold out to well under high boost as it is plastic. And it is made from very hard but brittle plastic so could be easily cracked. I wouldn't have any idea about what kind of pressure would be needed to damage it but I also wouldn't be convinced that the IS intake manifold is the most flow friendly manifold around. I have had mine off and it looked fairly detailed and complicated etc. I would guess that a much simpler custom designed manifold would be better for turbo'd engines and of course it would need to be steel or alloy etc for high boost. Anyway off topic there...sorry.

Thanks for the comments guys. progress to follow.

Managed to get the car fired up over the weekend there. Jonny plugged the laptop in and we tried a few times to start it and it would only fire for a second or two at a time. While I was away getting some petrol it was discovered that the fuel pump was priming when turning the engine over but as soon as you let the key go for the engine to idle the fuel pump would cut out. This is prob down to a snag in the wiring or a fault in the ECU causing the pump to switch off sometimes. Rather than waste time trying to diagnose the exact fault I will simply rewire the live to the pump using an ignition triggered relay and a power feed straight from the battery. We did make up a quick straight feed from the battery in order to get the car idling and the idle map is now done so the car will start and tick over fine now. The other problem we had is that the throttle position sensor on the supra engine is different from that on the IS engine. They look the same and use the same 4 wire connection plugs but the 4 wires used are wired in a diferent order. For this reason we have fried 2 throttle position sensors already. I now have to get another TPS and get the volt meter onto a friends supra to find out the correct wiring. It is for this reason we could not map the car yet. To my horror I took of my oil cap to find it full of nice white cream . This is after running the engine for about 30 mins. Worst case scenario is a fooked head gasket but I have a feeling there may have been some lying water in the engine. I had removed the cam covers to sand blast and paint them before. I used a hose to make sure all the sand was washed out from the nooks and crannies in the covers. I did thoroughly dry them and left them overnight before re-fitting them but there is a chance that some water has stayed in there somewhere. I am hoping this is the reason as I do not want to have to change the head gasket at this stage I also found a tiny water leak in the coolant system but it just looks like the drainage plug in the rad may be loose. All in all i am happy the car is now running as it is much easier to diagnose silly problems like above. What i ain't happy about is that after waiting 3 1/2 months for my new bumper the courier company managed to loose it somewhere on the boat from birmingham to belfast. Have to wait at least another 4 weeks for a replacment to come from the states now!!!

not really doing it for me either. There is too much going on in those lights. need to be simpler.

Aahh right... so there can be a considerable difference in design for the core of the coolers then. The car was only running about .55bar of boost at the time which isn't a lot by any means although due to the size of the cooler I expect that it took that amount of boost in it's stride. The end tanks were cast aswell so at least that is one good sign. Oh and the core did have internal fins too which should have a good effect on cooling but an adverse effect on flow. suppose it all makes sense in the end.

I did weld that yes, why is it that easy to tell that I am not that good at welding lol The back boxes are just standard universal boxes.