gsportcars

That seems to be an effective intercooler Aido (in terms of thermal efficiency). The flow efficiency is also vitally important. :) The problem for most people, especially now that the UK is flooded with cheap rubbish from China, is trying to identify and evaluate the differentiation. Just becasue it looks pretty doesn't mean it's any good. The other consideration is that of priorities. If someone just wants the "big intercooler" look, they may as well buy the cheapest one they can find that fits the bill, but if they want something that actually works - that requires more diligence. Mark :) Just as a reference...... When I originally turbo'd my IS engine I bought a "cheap chinese intercooler." Although i don't know what temp the air was just after the turbo I do know that as far as cooling goes it did a great job. I know this as the temp reading from the Autronic air intake temp sensor read a steady 20-21 degrees. That meant nothing to me when I heard it but i was told it was a very good reading. The intercooler I used was from what I could see, very well made and used the better 'bar and plate' method of cooling. It was also of a reasonably large size, maybe even too large but I had over compensated at the time as i originally planned to up the boost later after engine rebuild. As for what Mark has mentioned about the flow of the cooler I do not know the flow efficiency. Although I would hazard a guess that most of the flow efficiency is gained by having the right shape of end tanks on the cooler. I would expect that one bar and plate core is pretty much the same and as good as another bar and plate core. if you were to look at my old cooler which Elliot now has you will see that the shape of the end tanks seem to be very 'flow friendly' if you know what I mean. I do stand to be corrected though....

Heres mine that I did for the ISupra conversion. And a bad quality pic from another camera of the full system off the car.

Not good mate hope you get it sorted asap. You can never be to carefull where eyes are concerned but then I am sure you are sick of hearing that now.

I couldn't see a different induction kit causing the settings to be that far out on the Apexi to cause a prob like that. I have never seen the greddy or blitz inductions but I imagine they would be pretty much the same design. A sligth difference in air flow as small as that should not cause such a drastic change in performance whether running an safc or not. I stand to be corrected though, but it seems not likely to me.

Tell them to put some copper grease on the back of the pads. They should have done it anyway. As for the ticking noise it is prob the new discs slightly rubbing on something but it would only be a bit of built up dirt or rust etc. I would say there is no need to change the caliper at all, so long as it is operating properly. Go and get a different garage to look at it first.

Very interesting read as I too am not knowledgeable in the world of dyno's, at least not to this extent. Thats some more pub talk for me for the weekend!!! LOL Just a shame that all this knowledge happened to come about during somewhat of an arguement / dispute / debate or so on.

Glad to see you got it going mate. i really miss the sound of that turbo system. You may also need to adjust the spring in the dump valve as the boost is so low at the minute. I had the springs in my blitz one screwed right out to zero just to get it to dump a little.

good to see another NI member on here. There are always TRD and TTE bits popping up all the time on here and on ebay. Just have a quick look in the for sale section etc. I know Mat has/ had a set of replica TRD skirts for sale. Dunno if they are sold yet or not. Anyway welcome!!

I am just thinking on this about the possible probs with splitting the signal and causing different voltage, therefore wrong fuelling. Could this problem not be overcome when mapping the car anyway. As the fuelling has to be setup when mapping, could you not compare the readings from the standard sensors with a reading from a seperate sensor temporarily positioned in the tail pipe? This way you could determine if the readings are wrong from the standard sensors. If they are right then the problem is solved. If they are wrong then surely the fuelling could be adjusted according to difference in voltage that the standard sensors provide, so that when mapping the car, the calculations have already been done to give the new A/F ratio needed as a target to aim for. The tail pipe sensor could be used also during the mapping process to ensure that the "real" A/F ratio is correct. Once mapping is done you would save the map and do away with the tail pipe sensor. I know that all sounds a bit messy and could be a silly idea but it could also be a possible solution

Yeah Elliot take the manifold to an engineering company. As it is cast it will prob need professionally done. You would be better finding out which wire is the signal wire on the sensors first before you cut all of them. This way you can still plug the original two plugs in which will give the second sensor it's own power source. Then just splice into the signal wire/s alone.

The two sensor on Elliots manifold are already positioned just before the turbo where the exhausts merge so they will give the same reading anyway. I personally would still drill another hole on the manifold beside the original hole but I wouldn't see any difference if it was in the down pipe other than the flow speed before and after the turbo. Safest bet is still to drill the manifold I reckon though.

My suggestion as you have said would have been to get the manifold drilled and tapped for the second sensor and just blank off the original hole. Although I wouldn't see any prob with putting it in the down pipe if it makes things easier.

I think I remember posting not long ago about the disbelief with the trouble you have had with your car Adie and I am still taken a back at the fact you are finding even more issues to date with the car REGARDLESS OF WHO IS OR WAS TO BLAME. I for one know from personal experience that projects like this always have hiccups and delays and unforseen problems but this thread still amazes me as there is a new prob nearly everytime I look. I have to hand it to you personally though as you seem to have been very diplomatic and restrained about the whole thing were others in your situation may have been quite the opposite. I think you are doing some great work to your car as I always like to see pioneers etc. Anyway I really do hope you can get it sorted very soon so you can at least get to enjoy the car if nothing else.

Cheers elliot, much appreciated. I know that whats happened has happened but never the less I still feel like a knob end after all is said and done. I now also know how entertaining it is doing projects like this by yourself since doing the supra swap and how the smallest little thing can send you insane untill you eventually get it sorted. The states I have got myself into over something as silly as catching the wrong thread on a nut and bolt etc is ridiculous. Thats what makes it so fun though. You know I am on the end of the phone anyway if you have anymore questions although I suspect you'd prob be better off double checking anything I tell you...LOLOLOLOL.

The part for the vac hose is on the other side of the throttle body than what you have pictured. ie; the side that is furthest away from the engine itself. If you look down between the throttle body and the fuse/relay box it should be down there. it should be a small black rubber vacuum hose you are looking for. If need be you could remove the throttle body itself as it is only 4 bolts and you will deffo see it then. Yeah the leg won't collapse as you say but after reading this thread to date I would really be sure it gets welded. I still feel like a proper idiot and can only apologise again.

Prob a silly suggestion but can be easily overlooked.... Do you have an alarm system with a seperate immobiliser. Depending on what system and who fitted it, some will cut out the spark to immobilise the car.

I have just been reading back through your thread Elliot as I have been away from the PC over the weekend. to say I am feeling pretty darn stupid now would be an understatement. I did tell Elliot that the section needed cut out in order for the turbo to fit. I must stress though that although mine is the same, but it has a section welded back in, I was not the person who decided to do this to my own car. the turbo conversion was done for me. If I had have known what I have just read in this post I would never at all have even considered letting this happen to my own car let alone someone elses. I am truly sorry for this mis-information Elliot and hope that you can get it sorted. I know that I will now be going back and looking at my own car to have this strengthened for my own piece of mind. In light of this I also have to state that I have driven my car very hard with the turbo on and the chassis leg in it's current state and I have as yet had no problems whatsoever. The section that has been changed in mine is also slightly smaller than Elliots but it is to the same effect. I am no mechanic and have no such qualifications. I just knew what was needed to enable the turbo to be fitted as it was to my own car. I have to re-stress that I did not know at the time what I do now and I genuinely do fell like a complete idiot. Once again Elliot I sincerely apologise for this and I hope that my naivety has not caused any irrepairable damage.

Yeah it is the 1g-fe

Don't waste all that nice gear by running the system from the stock HU. You won't have anywhere near the amount of sound quality or sound control that you would get from a half decent HU. I would fit the alpine on all day long. I am running the alpine 9855-r jobbie with the funky glide bar thing. Takes a bit of getting used to but the quality and control I get from the head unit is amazing. I did have 2 diamond audio 12" subs but have now got 2 JL audio 15"subs which are a much better sub. Not easy fitting them in the limited boot space though.

Nice figures there man. I bet you are well pleased with that!!! :D

PM'd you there Elliot. About the down pipe flange. We did at one stage have all 5 bolts in so it deffo fits. when I re-fitted the turbo my self after rebuild, I could only get 4 bolts in. you need a very long socket extention for a couple of them as you have to tighten them from under the car. The progress is very quick though but I guess it would be seeing as everything has already been fitted before. LOL. You will have to get a few vids up when it is finished as I miss the sound of a turbo'd IS lump.....

The 1g-gte is from a 2.0 twin turbo mkiii supra and I think it also came in the soarer aswell. Elliot you can get parts for this engine very cheap from Australian forums. Try toymods forum. You will have to do a search as I can't remember the exact address. The manifold is from turbokits.com in the states. Last time I looked they had stopped advertising the is200 turbo kit but I am sure they will still supply them. Dave (prolex) should be able to source one for you if needed.

That would seem like an oil diverter to me but I am not completely sure. Don't really know about the oil sensors. you could prob take the oil line to a hose specialist/supplier and get them to fit another T-piece in it for the oil pressure sensor. you could also do the same for the oil temp sensor but put it in the oil line for the cooler. Just an idea but may not work.

I eventually got a hold of the pics taken before of the exhaust while it was off the car. They are from another camera so quality isn't that great. Anyway here is the down pipe with the flex and part of the rest of the system. this is the centre section whic was also heat wrapped until I ran out of wrap. This is the rear of the exhaust with the twin boxes. And finally a full view of the whole system from the rear. The car has been started but just barely. the engine is only running on 3 cylinders as we think there is a short in the ignition wiring. I need to test the wiring loom to make sure everything is as it should be and if it is all ok then it has to be a faulty bosch driver. anyway I will keep you guys posted and hopefully should have a couple of video clips of the car running. After listening to advice I have decided to only put a base map in the car for about the first few hundred miles. Just to make sure there are no teething problems. once I am happy that everything is ok then we will go for full mapping.

I have been busy as usual so not had the chance to post up any progress. Anyway everything is basically fitted now and I had to start on the wiring. As the is200 uses the electronic throttle control to control the idle etc It didn't haver an idle control valve. The supra engine fortunately does. The only prob being that it needed to be wired up to the ECU. I got a lend of the Autronic user manual with the wiring diagrams for this and got to work. First I had to find the correct wires coming from the ECU. After a bit of stripping and testing some wires I eventually found the 4 i needed which were already extended into the engine bay. Here they are below. I simply extended them further and connect them according to the wiring diagram Another main difference in the wiring of the two engines is the coil packs. the IS200 uses 4 wire coils and the supra uses 2 wire coils. For this reason the Autronic ECU will not support/run the supra coils without a Bosch driver module. I had to find these wires also and connect up the driver according to the Autronic manual. Here is the driver mounted in the engine bay The coils themselves are powered straight from the battery using a relay and 30amp fuse. The relay is triggered through the ignition. Here is the relay mounted on the strut for the strut brace. I had to also weld a small pipe onto the intercooler piping for the dump valve to fit onto. Due to layout and lack of space it is mounted below the throttle body on the intake pipe. here is a view from the top looking down. and a view from below looking up When I fitted my radiator and tried to fill the coolant system I discovered that my rad was leaking in 3 places . I don't really know how this happened but I assume it has been damaged while lying arount the garage. Anyway I did get a new one which wasn't cheap , so here is a quicky Here is the intercooler piping made up and off the car This is the intercooler piping coming from the turbo and going down towards the bottom of the engine bay A pic from below shows the piping going into the intercooler and also coming out of the intercooler but now the piping diameter is 3" instead of 2"