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Hi there new to the forum but been a browser for a while now. Thought i would let people know just in case like me you were unsure what sizes the wiper blades are on the IS300h. They are 18 Inch 450 MM passenger side and 24 inch 600 mm drivers side. I have just replaced mine with Michelin Hybrid Stealth which have the model numbers MSW12924 drivers MSW12918 passengers for £21.95 on ebay.

i have just acquired a new premier model but on running the same i find that the Adaptive Cruise Control stops working when the car slows down to 30 mph and needs manual braking the Speed Limit Display (SLD) for a start does not display on the main map, it only shows on the display on the dash board and shows various speeds from 30 to 140 at random places (90mph on a 30mph road. The Lexus Centre is at a loss what to do Do any other drivers of the above car have same problems??

I've been searching everywhere for a change of genuine floor mats in different colour other than black for my is300h,I really want red and I did see them on eBay a while back but unfortunately not for the IS,does anyone know if this is possible or even a place that does Lexus floor mats,I want it with the Lexus logo on the mats I've seen many mats that are the right colour but no logo!! If anyone can help please let me know I've tried searching but no joy.

Well I have just refuelled today after covering 920 miles with my GS300h.As usual I always check brimful to brimful and use an app to make the calculations. My previous 2014 300h f sport averaged just over 44mpg.Amazingly the GS has returned an average of over 47mpg. This is real world conditions so very impressed. The car computer was showing 52mpg today, so quite optimistic. The more I drive the car the better it seems. I bizarrely find it much easier to park than the IS300h. The lock in tight spaces is superb. Seats are much more comfortable as is the ride quality. The sound from the ML system seems to vary considerably in quality between radio stations. I thought that radio 2 seemed to have a better surround feel than Union Jack despite both being DAB. The sound playing from tracks on a USB was very good. I may still need to fiddle with the settings a bit more though.

Just spotted these for sale on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263058132067 Set of alloys for Is250/is300h, apparently new and unused, London E3 area Nothing to do with me, just spotted them. Depending on the reserve, could be a bargain for someone.

Hi all, Just wanted to introduce myself. I am Andy from Edinburgh / Motherwell, Scotland and I've just got myself a lovely Lexus IS300h Executive (pictures attached). It is a 14 plate with 14k miles on the clock and seems to be a great car. My previous car (still for sale) was a Mitsubishi Legnum VR4 Type S that I love but a change in circumstances meant that I needed to find something new and much more economical, hence the IS300h. I'll no doubt be around on the forums with questions about the car for you all but hopefully not too many actual problems to solve. Thanks Andy

Hi, recently bought a Lexus is300h 2015 which I am in love with. However, just seen the display LCD entertainment system on the 2017 Lexus and it looks a lot bigger than mine. Also noticed it's been on other models of lexus (Gs and Rx) for a while now. Wondering, is it possible if I was able to buy the larger display screen would it be compatible with my model? Please let me know if you can shed some light on this. Thanks!

Hi, Apologize in advance for my bad English, I want to share some this situation, hope to have some suggestion. I have experienced strange behavior of the multimedia system on my two weeks old IS300H MY2017 Premium. In few words, with the previous IS300H I had (MY2013) after the welcome message, the navigator screen appeared without any data entry window, ie: it was ONLY the map, the user who needed to enter a destination went to MENU and started the process. Also, with the previous IS when using the reverse gear, the screen of course changed with the camera view, and when it returned to Drive gear, the screen come back to the previous setting screen (Maps, Radio, etc.) now in whatever way the display is set (such as Radio or the air conditioning screen or any other option available) when I come back to drive gear the screen go back always on the maps, with the annoying menu open on the screen. So I have to go out form map screen, go back to the general menu, select again the radio or any other screen I have set. I hope the movie uploaded can help better than my poor English. Could someone tell if is possible to change this setting? I've clearly downloaded the detailed multimedia manual from the Internet (the one in the car is poor and almost does not talk about multimedia, just a few generic pages) but they do not mention this thing, I suspect there is another bug in the software of my multimedia system, as the same of the connected services (from Lexus still is not responding me) ... anybody can help me to understand if this is normal for the new software or are willing to try in his car? Thank you in advance! Accensione_IS300H.mov Retromarcia_IS300H.mov

Hi all, I have had my IS for around four months now and have been having on and off trouble with the radio regarding the sound cutting out. I had thought it was linked to the active sound so I turned that off in the sound settings, it seemed to have fixed the problem for about 2 or 3 months but it has happend again. It normally lasts for a day or two and then comes back on (the sound) but I would like to get this proplem resolved asap so I booked it in with Lexus. Has anyone on here at the same experience with the IS media system? and if so how did you resolve the issue? Cheers.

Quite a few people ask me how to best look after their hybrid battery packs during hot weather. All Lexus / Toyota Hybrids are equipped with at least 4 thermal sensors, in most cases more, so theoretically if all those & their associated cooling fans / ECU's / wiring / ducting / grills etc are all in good clean working order then the vehicles should 'look after themselves' so to speak so no real great cause for alarm or worry - however - issues arise when any of these fail or become broken or clogged. Also we are all human so when it's hot we want our AC Air Conditioning on, it is not generally known by hybrid owners, however, that our Air Conditioning compressor motors are not driven by a belt & pulley from the engine as the vast majority of other vehicles are. No! ours are driven by quite a heavy three phase electrical motor directly fed via a converter from our Hybrid Battery. If our Hybrid Battery &/or system is not in good condition & we are sat in traffic, for instance, the engine not running & the air-con working to cool us - the hybrid battery will quickly drain & be topped up by our hybrid system resulting in a bit of a see-saw effect (discharge/charge) which in itself is not very good (whatever anyone else says) for the health of our Hybrid Battery in effect it eats away at the capacity of the battery. What can we do about it ? Some simple steps like setting our A/C's at a specific normal temperature say 20 degrees & placing it in automatic mode, this will ensure the compressor runs only when absolutely needed, not having windows open while A/C is on as we are then trying to cool the entire planet, other simple things like parking in the shade where possible, keeping all vents & air intake grills clear of detritus. If you know your Hybrid Battery is a bit weak you are probably better off not using the AC at all. Hope this helps

I've had my IS300H Premium since January and have just come back from my 60,000 mile service. Anyone else finding that they are curbing their wheels more than their previous car? I had a first gen IS200 SportCross before this and I assume the track must be a bit wider than my old car. It hurts me everytime I've done it. Lol. Getting it booked in for a 4 wheel refurbished soon.

Dear guys, Apologize for my bad English. I have received just Saturday my new IS300H luxury with some optional (roof, Mark Levinson) I previously had the IS300H MY2013 The car is amazing, the improvement are not only in the new design that I really prefer, but in hundred of subtle details that are not noticed until you have not the car in your hand, most of the review simple does not tell this! Motor performance for me are better that the 2013 model, the synergy with hybrid motor is better, the new multilink suspension give a car a more "solid" presence on the road, tha car is more rigid... I feel it like the F Sport that I have try previously. The only big problem is the mess with connected services. The multimedia system try to connect with the portal www.my.lexus.eu that, from what I see, no longer exist so my account will not recognized, because it is registered on the new portal that is under the www.lexus.it/my-lexus main website: I cannot verify if the car system redirect, but it seems that no. Also, trying to connect my multimedia via the portal, with his ID number it result that the number is not recognize (you know the format: 000-000-000-000). Another strange element is that in the Italian portal they tell that only "touch and go" system can be used the ID account registered: I have eventually try to use my email instead the ID that the portal offer me, but the car system does not accept more than a fixed number of keys and my email address is too long. Actually it seems that nobody at the Italian customer care can sort out from this... they just tell me to try with Samsung Android instead the iPhone (sic!) but it is clearly an inconsistent answer because I had all my iPhone's (from 3GS) connected with no problem at all, since IS200 of 2014 and the latest one (iPhone 6) work well with bluetooth and is correctly set up. To be honest, another smal issue is that the SMS does not arrive on the multimedia system, while all the services seems to be OK. I have load few pictures for your knowledge I hope this can help others member to check their system, if they have same problems and to suggest some trick to me. Thank you so much!

Hi I've read through a post on this site from years ago and didn't get the information i was looking for. I have a 2016 Lexus IS300H Executive edition with satnav. I am trying to get mirror link to work, i have a comparable samsung model. Ive plugged the phone in and my phone screen says connected to mirror link device. The screen in the car does not have the option highlighted to start mirror link. Is it possible to resolve this somehow? or why its not working? Thanks this is my first post!

Hi, I'm a new Lexus IS300H 2017 which I got from the dealer three weeks ago. Here in Spain Lexus isn't a very well known brand so It's difficult to find out some things of these cars. Despite my bad english I have been reading you by a long time and found that this is one of the few interesting forums dedicated to lexus so I have decided to join and collaborate and learn as much as I can about these nice cars. Everybody has told me that all Lexus current cars are mirrorlink 1.0... The thing that confuses me is that I can't not connect one S3 with drivelink but in the other hand mirrorlink works well with Samsung Galaxy Alpha (1.1 mirrorlink) or S4 mini (1.1 mirrorlink too). S7 doesn't work. Can anybody shed light on this matter? Sorry for my bad english and grettings from Spain.

Hello, I was wondering if it would be possible to change my rear bumper and put the one of the 200T + diffuser, of course i would like much more the MY2017, but the one before would also be ok. Does anyone know if it would be possible? As in Spain we don´t have the 200T version it is also very difficult to get one, and from Lexus Spain they say that it is not possible to order it if i dont have the chassis number of 200T, so im not able to try it neither My idea is if it fits, try to find the rear bumper in UK websites or try to look for someone that can order it for me. Thank you in advance

Looking for IS300H with up to 90000k miles, offers below £10000. Will not accept blue. Call Bart 07814 715 730. Thanks

Hello everyone, This forum has been an absolute god-send so far so thanks for all the advice everyone's been putting in. I'm picking up my IS300h F-sport in F-sport white this weekend and want to start thinking about all the kit I will need to care for it properly. I've read around a bit but I'm really a complete novice when it comes to maintaining a car, so want to get your thoughts around my "master plan" for trying to keep the car in mint condition... Exterior : 1. Body: Get 2 buckets and wash with soapy water using a sponge, then wipe clean with micro-fibre cloth. Every 6 months, apply generic car wax (ebay/amazon?) and buff off using micro fibre cloth. Do I even need things like Meguiar (never used anything like that before). 2. Wheels: Again, use bucket/soapy water/sponge to clean the break dust / other dirt off the rims. Is that sufficient? 3. Windows: We live in a car water area so it's a bit annoying but I'm assuming nothing more than soapy water and sponge. Interior: 1. F-sport seats: hoover and micro fibre 2. Carpets: hoover 3. Plastics/leather: micro fibre, and leather wipes? Please now rip it apart...

Hi everyone After all the helpful comments, I've decided to test drive an F-sport (and hope that we can accept the rougher ride) and found 3 similar F sport models. Option 1 £20,000 May 2014 21k mileage Option 2 £20,250 Nov 2014 13k mileage Option 3 (same but red seats) £20,000 Nov 2013 46k mileage To me option 2 seems the best but what do you think? And are these priced high and therefore with room for negotiation? I appreciate we will need to see the condition of the car, seats, floor, exterior condition etc but thought I'd see your views. Many thanks

Hi all With pointers from various members (farqui, capese21), lots of reading, looking at service manuals, and mustering the confidence to rip apart the interior of my new Lexus Is300h, I have managed to install a front and rear dash cam (the Thinkware F770, £248 when I purchased, quite expensive, if Thinkware want to give me a rebate, I'd be delighted). It's been fuse tapped to the interior fuse box (no auxiliary / 12v cigarette lighter socket), all wiring hidden, none running in the interior, and I believe, safely (no cables running in front of SRS airbag deployment zones, ready to whip me in the head at 500 miles an hour). Having Previously taken my other cars apart, I usually end up with at least a snapped clip or something broken. This time, absolutely nothing. No broken parts, and all assembled as if it had never been taken apart in the first place. Stopping and starting throughout, and solving problems / making decisions as I went (I had no idea where I'd run it at first), meant it took around 3 hours to lay cables / re-assemble the car, and then another couple of hours or so to discreetly fit / mount the two cameras. I used some Fablon / Sticky Back Plastic to make it look like a factory install / to hide it. I've also got full DAB signal still which some had reported they had lost, due to electrical interference. I was considering a ferrite core (if that's what they're called), but have had no need for it. Pictures are not that good, and I didn't take loads, but the process ought to be quite clear with description. For any folk across the pond reading this, it is a right hand drive car! :-) I believe instructions on the web show the fuse box is in the driver footwell, but that is only the case on Left Hand Drive! Very happy with the outcome! =========== PART 1 - LAYING REAR CAMERA CABLING We need to lay the cables. The long cable that runs to the back of the car, to power the rear camera, and then the power cable to the fuse box. I thought at first, that I'd run it above the head of the driver (interior roof trim), but found that running it along the floor was the best way I ran the rear camera cable by starting from the rear view mirror. First, I disconnected to the 12V negative battery terminal in the boot. Just in case air bags wanted to deploy on me! It lost a bunch of settings, but not all of them. It was disconnected for hours. Make sure you don't shut that boot once it's been closed, I assume the electric opener won't work without the battery connected! Next, I removed the A Pillar. Pull at it (not too hard), and it'll begin to come lose. There are three fixing points. There is a safety clip (should the airbag deploy), that prevents the trim from breaking lose and flying into the cabin. This black clip needs rotating 90 degrees, so it can unclip from the white part attached to the trim. The middle clip (half way down) ought to have unclipped itself when you losened the trim. The final clip at the bottom, is held by the plastic adjacent to the air vent / the plastic that sits parallel to the door. Just pull that plastic panel apart slightly, and the third clip holding down the A Pillar should come off. Start running the cable from the middle of the windscreen (poke it into the gap at the top of the windscreen). Use tape to hold the cable to the trim, so it doesn't sit in front of the air bag. Poke the cable between the rubber seal and the plastic to run it down to the footwell. Then, remove the long plastic sill trim that runs parallel to the scuff plate. Underneath, you'll see a bunch of the harness wiring running inside white plastic clips. You can run your rear view cable in here, alongside that, there is plenty of space. I even cable tied mine in, to make it neat. You'll want to keep running it to the back of the car. Unclip the bottom of the large piece of plastic which houses the various driver seatbelt mechanism. Also, remove the rear passenger driver side sill trim, and also the plastic that runs parallel to the driver side rear passenger seat (this last piece is a bit hard to remove - it's the one with the holes in it, where the air flow runs for the rear passenger). With all these pieces removed, you can run the cable all the way to the back, up the side of the driver side rear passenger seat, and up to top of the seat. I then poked the cable in between the trim (use a plastic edge, I used my ice scraper), all the way to the back of the glass, and then ran it up the edge of the rear window. As I did at the front, ran it around the edge, and ended up with the rear cable at the top of the rear window, right in the middle! Any excess lengths of cabling, I looped up and cable tied together. There was plenty of space for me to leave this behind that ventilated plastic trim (by the rear driver side passenger). Unfortunately, I didn't take many pictures at this point (started in the afternoon, racing against time, before it went dark). That's the cable running from front to back, to support the dual cams! Great check point! Start re-assembling all the trims. They all should clip back on fairly easily. As mentioned above, the ventiled trim for the rear passenger is a bit difficult, but bear with it. The A Pillar is also a bit funny. You need to remove the black plastic clip that you had to rotate 90 degrees (little notches to push in to release it from the body work). I spent ages trying to push it together at all sorts of angles, before realising it unclipped, and it would absolutely not go back together unless removed. It'll push nice and easily back into the body work after. PART 2 - LAYING POWER CABLE / CONNECTING TO FUSE BOX I removed the A Pillar on the front passenger side, the plastic trim that has the airbag on / off key switch mounted in it, the bottom of the glove compartment (prises apart, use the ice scraper again), and the plastic sill trim, to allow unclipping of the one piece of plastic trim. Temporarily disconnect the cable running to the passenger footwell light too. I ran the cable at funny angles (can't remember all the detail, I sepnt a while debating the best route, but I wanted it perfectly discreet) behind the airbag switch and inside the dash board chassis / frame. I had to loosen a few of the door seals to get accces or to make things fit too, don't be afraid to do that. Again, I used cable ties to hold wiring neatly in place. You need two fuse taps (they are micro, low profile fuses in this car), and used 2A fuses for the tapped circuit. One for Battery (always on / parking mode), and one for ACC On (for driving mode). I really like this cam due to time lapse mode (30 mins video, in two min chunks), good night vision, the built in battery saver (to stop it flattening your battery - no need to spend £50 on something like the Blackvue Power Magic), and the fact it is front and rear. Using a multimeter, I checked which side of the fuse was providing the power, so I didn't put the fuse in the wrong way (See https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/piggy-back-fuseholders-a-right-way-and-a-wrong-way.7524/). Wrong way, and a surge could mean the fuse doesn't blow to protect the camera. If I remember, the way my fuse tap was, it means the cable was pointing toward the driver side of the car (away from the front passenger door). That'd mean, left pin / side of the fuse slot providing power. I used the 15A "HAZ" (Hazard) for the always on / battery power (for parking mode), and then the 10A "IG I no.2" for the ACC On (for driving mode) as power sources. Worked perfectly. No interference / issues a week on. The plastic sleeves hosuing the DAB / Rain sensors, and the rear mirror mount, slides up and down. I used this to hold the dash cam cable up to the edge of the windscreen. I had to remove the white fuse box lid, and leave it off. It sits so flush / tightly against the fuses, that there is no room to re-install the it after. I am thinking of buying an additional cover, and cutting bits out, to fit around the fuse taps. I'd not like water in the fuse area from passenger feet. Neither having it kicked. Either that cap being cut up, or a metal frame screwed to the interior plastic, to prevent a foot smashing my fuse box and damaging my fuse taps. Or both. Yet to do this however. Earthed it on the bolt attached to the fuse box (black frame, silver bolt) - visible in the below pictures (image 08) PART 3 - MOUNTING CAMERAS As mentioned previously, I used sticky back plastic / fablon (rip off, £6 a roll in Hobby Craft for loads, I need about 30cm squared max). I cut it to the size of the front and rear cam, and stuck it to the windscreen (a bit of alcohol to clean the window first). What I didn't do, and wish I did, was hair dryer it, so it would melt a bit, and really bond itself to the windscreen. Can see small air bubbles from the outside if you really look, but most people won't. I wanted to do this, so the cam wouldn't get stolen. If it looks factory fit, it's usually less tempting. Great idea from capese21, I saw on his thread from a couple of years ago! Thanks! Also ran a thick strip parallel to the rear view mirror mount, to which I ran the cables up against, to the edge of the winscreen. I mounted the cameras onto this using the provided VHB tape in the camera kit (so difficult to remove the plastic bit to expose the sticky bit - cut it with a knife to get it started). Solidly mounted in place. Cables all connected up, I re-connected the 12V battery, and powered on. Be careful to check which way the rear camera is orientated before sticking it down (I've read people sticking it on upside down, and having a hard time removing it to correct it - the VHB is so strong). Before mounting the camera, I used the Android App, to view the camera in Live View mode (so I could ensure positioned correctly). Front camera is mounted off centre, on the driver side. It's out of view behind the mirror. Not ideal, but there are other things in the way. Smack bang in the middle would have been perfect. I configured my camera to shut off at 12.1V. Whilst car is on, the camera shows it is receiving about 14.4V. I set it to shut off after 6 hours, but as I've had no flat battery, tempted to set it to 24 hours. If the voltage gets too low, it'll shut off anyway. My advice: Take it slowly, leave plenty of time, don't rush the install. Flawlessly working. Any questions, let me know, I'll do my best to help. Pictures below, roughly in order. They should help a bit! Matt

Hi all, I'm a newbie, and would appreciate some help... I'm struggling to find used is300h circa 14 / 64 plates with the safety systems pack (advanced technology pack I think) including adaptive cruise control, blind spot, etc... any advice? I've noticed that some dealers don't mention heated seats when the buttons are clearly visible in photos, so I'm ever so slightly hopeful that it's something that they're not recording / noticing? I've yet to physically see a car with this kit equipped, so any advice on what buttons to look for, or other physical signs that the pack is installed would be appreciated... Is this simply a very very rare option? (i.e. Get over myself and be happy if I can find premium nav and heated seats...) thanks in advance guys!!

After trying to decide for probably 2 years what car to get to replace my diesel Honda CRV, I always seemed to come back to the Lexus IS300h. I was definitely wanting an auto, having previously had a Saab 95 Aero auto, that was a very nice car which I put 100,000 miles on. Now they don't make Saabs any more, and I'm not massively a fan of BMW, Mercedes even though they were always on my radar. I think the final nail in the coffin for me getting one of the German cars was that if I had one of those, it would have been a diesel, and its increasingly obvious that diesel is falling out of favour. So yesterday I picked up a 2 year old IS300h in Messa Red, nice drive home trying to get used to the low driving position having come from an SUV. Drive down the motorway in the CRV averaged about 38mpg, the drive back, 58mpg, so I'm certainly liking that and its a lot quieter than the CRV too, just like being back in one of my Saabs. Vince

Hi folks, Thanks for the help. I've found a car and just a little excited now. Found a Renault dealer that had taken a F-Sport in PX for two Clio diesels - feel for the guy who PX'd it! In the end I've spent a bit more than I wanted but happy with the purchase. 15 plate, F-sport in ultra blue, seems to have premium Nav. No leather con seats that I was after but happy to sacrifice. 12,000 miles and had it's 12 month service at main dealer. Alloys need a little refurb but the dealer is doing this, also enough tread on the tires to keep me happy for a while. Test drive was fine, ride wasn't too hard either. Hopefully pick it up next week. Cheers Peri

Hello, New in this forum. I am from Malaga - Spain. I bought my Lexus in November, its my second one. Before my IS300H i had the Lexus IS200d Fsport, this new model is much better in all aspects in my opinion. I have to say that y love this brand, they are one of the most confortable cars i have ever driven. And its incredible the design they have.

Hi, I have been looking at a couple of 300h's over the last few days and have a few questions. The 63 plate have a rectangular shaped infotainment controller. I wasn't able to find Post code as a search option in the SAT nav. I've been told by a dealer that the 64 exec, he was trying to sell me did have post code as an option, in the images this had a circular controller? is this true? Also when I look on the Lexus used car page a see a variety of BHP's agains the 2.5 IS300h's? are they all the same and it is just a system glitch? How does the spec of a 64 Exec compare to a 63 Lux. Enjoyed the drive of the 63 lux, but as I've mentioned in a few other posts it seems a bit of a mismatch. It has FSport alloys, a nice exterior but the interior looks a bit tired, it has done 50K and I can see some of the leather wearing. Shame as it is loaded and at a great price. Get what you pay for though. Local Lexus dealer has a 63 FSport with 7K on looks stunning but he want £22.5k for it. Ideally I'm looking at spending between 15-20k. Any advice appreciated. Don't mind waiting for the right car, it is a lot of money at the end of the day.

Hi Lads.. New here, interested in buying my first Lexus, but looking mainly at used car options as I dont really like the idea of spending £25000+ on a car at this point of time (early thirties).. I'm looking at the IS300h 2.5 F-Sport model and found one for £14.000 but has 95.000miles on it.. What do you think? Would it be a good purchase to buy one to take me the next 5-6 years? Thanks for your replies:)