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This is something else (amongst a plethora of other issues) which currently puts me off EV ownership - stolen cables. Knowing my luck, I would be the unlucky so-and-so who'd plug it in somewhere miles from home, go off to do my business and come back a few hours later to see the cable was ripped out of it about three minutes after I walked away. 😕 I'd then be left with a car which wouldn't be able to drive far and no way of charging the thing up...

Indeed, I couldn't agree more. It all appears to be about the accounts 'counting the coppers' for dealers these days. They want to sell new cars, but don't want to give existing owners the opportunity to have a decent courtesy car for the day when theirs is in for servicing e.t.c... It used to be a nice perk to have and I don't think they appreciate that's how future sales can also be generated. Giving owners a 'bobby basic' courtesy car really doesn't do them any favours and in my case as I said in my previous post on this, that was one of a few reasons why I decided to move away from Audi. They weren't interested in keeping you 'part of the family' any more. A completely different experience to how they were during the 2000s.

I was reading up on this only the other week. I really don't know why we are continuing to follow EU law, when we're supposed to be getting away from this lunacy. In my opinion, speed limiting technology also has quite a serious downside which I think would make our roads more dangerous. I can't imagine overtaking will be much 'fun' if the only way to get around the technology (without turning it off manually every time you start the car) would be to floor the throttle and wait for it to be overridden. It would be like HGV 'elephant races'. Not to mention another point that the technology that reads speed limit signs isn't always reliable. For instance on my NX (and UX before that...) I can think of two specific examples on my daily commute where it will advise a lower speed limit than what the road actually is. In cases like this if I hadn't turned the technology off, I'd have to floor the throttle to get the car up to the (already low) speed limit. As and when I do change my car again at some point in the future, I will make sure I'll do like what I used to do with 'stop-start' technology. Start the car, put on my seatbelt and deactivate the interference.

Hi All, New ISF owner here (Silver 2009) loving it so far but have a few questions Can certain features be turned on like BMW coding? looking at remote folding mirrors headlights on with key etc Im yet to take the door card off but is there a spring that keeps the handle tight? Any reliable Apple Car Play headunits available i didnt really want to change the current screen as its pretty good Whats Lexus like to get spares i need few minor things like Passenger front arch liner and an undertray

It all depends on how you intend on looking after the car, in my humble opinion. Personally speaking, it's not something I'd opt for because I'm someone who likes a clean car anyway, studies car cleaning/protection products and rarely it goes more than a fortnight (three weeks at most) without a wash. In my experience, I can achieve the same level of finish as the dealer's products, at a much lower cost, after the first month or so. Sure, the protection may not last as long but as a 'car washer', it's topped up often enough by the frequency of car cleaning I do! Obviously if you don't wash your car that often, then what the dealer offers is indeed something I would be looking at.

Loads of bol*ocks. If you're oblivious to the speed limits, you shouldn't be on the road. If you speed, you still can. This is literally just another one of those systems for bad drivers. It's enabling much lower concentration etc. Why not invest in better / stricter driving tests? Oh yeah, of course. This would cost the gov. money. If they just adopt another one of these dumb "laws" from the EU, it won't cost them anything. Literally 0 fu*ks given by the people who run this country. It's a joke. Dictatorship disguised as democracy..

That's the biggest problem with those touchscreens - inevitable greasy finger marks! With my NX, I have so far kept to using the dry microfibre black cloth provided to me with the car. Sometimes it takes moderate rubbing to remove some of the marks but so far, so good. I've not personally needed anything else so far. I usually give mine a wipe over once every couple of weeks. I try not to do it too often, unless the screen looks really bad.

Mandatory speed limiters on UK cars from July 2024 | AutoTrader

I rarely use the app. Beyond the 'home page' showing the car, mileage, fuel level e.t.c, hardly anything else works on it. It's been very hit and miss for me since day one, so I generally don't bother with it. One thing mine has a habit of doing is randomly logging me out and on occasion it wants me to add a vehicle from scratch (as if it's never had one on there). Then I have to completely close the app on my phone, go back onto it and log in again.

As already suggested, the easiest way of keeping the mirrors out/unfolded is to basically unlock the car, open one of the doors and then the car will remain unlocked. Whatever you do though, don't leave the key in the car. After a few minutes, the car will start doing those 'long peeps' at you! Especially if you go near the door handles! I tend to leave the key on the nearest window sill. I'm staying with the car anyway, so it's not a problem. On a slightly different subject whilst still remaining on 'car washing', I've had to develop a knack when it comes to drying. Once I've dried the bootlid, I'll then open it whilst drying the rest of the car. It tends to hold quite a bit of water in the channels and will leave those annoying 'drips' running down the rear bumper and rear quarters! By the time you've dried the rest of the car forwards of the rear quarter, it's mostly 'drained' itself...!

I hope you enjoy the Takumi. I've had mine for nine months now and it's proven to be an excellent dual carriageway and motorway 'wafter'. I can think of only a few other cars I've owned to have had this ability of munching away miles whilst you remain refreshed at the end of a long drive. I just passed the 6000 mile mark in mine last Friday evening on the way home from Work.

Priced now at £8500. please message for any additional info

There was no service history except for that the one done at lexus Burnaston, id love to figure out who it was, but they stripped the car, even the owners manual. Thanks. I will attempt it, but i spoke with someone else on here who said he wasnt very helpful in their case, in fact he didnt respond. Anything is worth a try. Full HPI check has been done, no write offs. Im beginning to realise roughly what happened. The service done at Lexus Burnaston also included replacement of an alloy wheel and the tyre repair kit, and a tire. Im assuming they had a blowout leading to the damage and cracking the alloy.

Really doubt it could be hub nut, if you hub nut would be so loose as to hear "clicking and clacking", then you would be easily able to move the wheel sideways after lifting the car, and also it would be all over the road. Basically the wheel hub would be loose and the whole wheel assembly would be loose. The lug nut or bolts - again if the nut would be loose, you would be able to tell by trying to tighten them, bolts are pressed in from behind, so they can't really be loose. Also let's say 1 out of 5 is loose - that would not result in any sound, as other 4 nuts would clamp the wheel tightly. For it to make any sound, basically all 5 have to be loose and you would probably lose the wheel before you know it. My bet would be on some sort of heatshield being loose under the car, or exhaust mount, something of that nature.

That's helpful to see a graph for the computer's strategy for the state of charge. My own testing on the IS300h (I had nothing better to do during Covid lockdown!) showed that the engine would start when the battery charge dropped to 40% (two bars showing) and would stop when the charge had risen to 50% (three bars). Four, five and six bars represented levels of charge from around the low to mid-50s up to around 60%. From memory seven bars would only appear above about 70% and eight bars at 80%. I was reading the percentages from the Hybrid Assistant app. The videos on the Hybrid Assistant app website seemed to show higher percentages than I was finding, so maybe the fine tuning varies from one model to another.

Those trim level names are completely different to the names here so it will hard to confirm and be sure what they equate to in the UK.

Hi, not sure if you still need it, but most garages that import those cars should be able to do it. At the very least, put a converter chip in to convert kph to mph and remove the limiter. Unfortunately, not many offer odometer correction. Garages like Torque GT, J-PN.UK do the full service.

It's likely you have a dead cell, and also your remaining cells are degraded or undercharged. In any case, it's a concern how long it will be able to boot your hybrid system up. Any chance it's low on charge? It takes longer drives (at least an hour or so) to meaningfully charge even a smaller lead-acid battery after it's deeply discharged. In any case, I'd get it replaced, it's a relatively minor expense compared to the massive inconvenience and time you lose if your car doesn't start up. Also, be mindful that while replacing a 12V battery is something anyone could easily do following simple instructions, some people reported issues when it's not done by a professional, ideally a Toyota/Lexus garage. I think some people lost the amplifier.

Hi I have a lexus isr for sale. Looking for £20,000 it is a MY10 registered on road in 2011. USB. Ivory leather interior. 55k miles at present. I have had it for almost 5 years as the sixth owner. It runs on v power from shell and tesco momentum since my ownership. it is modified and depending on demand, i can put it back to stock. it has hayward and scott catback exhaust with black chrome round tips, kwv3 coilovers fitted at 38xxx miles, rr racing bushing. cosmetic: vland rear light, blacked out chrome, alloy refurbed into rays racing bronze. Lexus service history as below. lexus leeds 20/10/12 (11564), 23/10/13 (16462), 30/10/14 (20249), 14/10/15 (25747) lexus hull 25/7/16 (30306), Lexus liverpool 18/5/17 (32501), 7/6/19 (35356) lexus newcastle 17/6/20 (40147), 22/11/21 (46630), 27/3/23 (49856), 25/3/24 (53451) The car was registered on road 27/5/11 thanks for reading

After all that, there's no change even in the engine details (even though I thought I'd seen a change on the website). I don't yet know about the spec; I'd imagine little change there either but will keep you informed when the car actually arrives!

Sorry I'm late... I missed your reply. I can't find any definitive information on the type of idle-up system used on your engine. If you have a drive-by-wire throttle then the idle air is controlled by the ECU moving the throttle plate slightly. If you have a separate rotary solenoid valve bolted to the underside of the throttlebody that is also controlled by the ECU (engine computer). Continuous high idle is almost certainly caused by excess air being allowed to enter the intake manifold, either by a vacuum leak of by a faulty idle air control valve (IACV). Rotary solenoids are prone to carbon buildup on the moving parts, and this can cause the valve to jam. This usually can be resolved by removing the ISCV, detaching the electrical part, and using carb cleaner or similar to remove carbon and restore full movement. Cheers...

Ah well, pity I hadn't seen your post, but I also don't have the tools around me to do it, so would have tried my bodger method anyway!

If you think you are right above then what’s the point to have even PS5? Why not budget tyres? People seem to cruise at 20mph in them to hear low V8 burble and sometimes to hit the gas pedal 20-80mph ONLY on straight, wide street. You don’t need anything near PS5 then? Any Chinese tyre can do that…

Adjusting the hole on the door frame was pretty straightforward and the finished result you cannot even tell the hole was modified

Interesting. I wasn't about to start re-positioning the hole so remoulding the roof rack was a better option. It only required a couple of mm of deformation so won't have had any deleterious effects on it's mechanical strength, juts looks a bit scruffy now.