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Running 2 Amps


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I plan on running 2 amps in the car in the boot 1 to power the sub and another to power a pair of 6x9's .. But as i have never run 2 before I am not sure on the power cables.. Can i run just the 1 from the Battery into the boot witn a distributer block on the end and then run 2 cables from the distributer box to both amps..

Craig

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Just make sure the cable can run enough current. If you put in some 4 gauge you are good for 100 amps

I gather that the lower number the guage the high amps it can run I only need 8 gauge with 30amp fuse inline for one.. But will that double the current draw with 2 amps drawing from the same cable.. ie make it pull 60amps??

Craig

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Well I have just ordered a complete 4awg wiring kit to be safe and just in case i want to go bigger later.. Did not realise how costly they were but i suppose its better than setting your car on fire.. any way now got to work out how to get that hefty cable from one end to the other..lol

Craig

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Hello mate, sorry for not replying sooner. Yes, you're right, lower the number, thicker the cable, higher the current rating. 4 gauge is good to at least 100 amps, so you should be fine. Terminate the 4awg at your distribution block, then use 8awg to connect each amp.

Running cable is easy. Remove Battery and make a tiny incision in the rubber grommit in the bottom right corner as you look where the Battery sits, feed the cable through here, if you look nder/behind the glove box, you should see cable come through, looking up towards the base of the a-pillar. Simply pull up the trim panels and drop the cable in and run down the side of the car. If you gently pull back the seat near the top, you will see a hole giving you access to the boot. alternatively if you remove the seat, there is also access lower down, this was the one I used, and ran my speaker cables through the upper holes.

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i'm doing this at the moment, I decided to take the interior out and sound deaden everything so at the moment all I have is the drivers seat. Still, will make running the cables through very easy! I've gone for a 1/0 guage wiring kit. Just went to make soem mdf baffles and made a stupid mistake, back to square one!

Anyway, show us some pics when you're done Craig! what brands have you chosen?

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i'm doing this at the moment, I decided to take the interior out and sound deaden everything so at the moment all I have is the drivers seat. Still, will make running the cables through very easy! I've gone for a 1/0 guage wiring kit. Just went to make soem mdf baffles and made a stupid mistake, back to square one!

Anyway, show us some pics when you're done Craig! what brands have you chosen?

Well I cant afford much so no plush install for me at the moment but Paul norkep has sent me 2 amps..

1. ALPINE V12 MRV-T320 2/1 CHANNEL POWER AMPLIFIER

1. SONY XM-250X

1. 12" SUB

Looking at using the alpine to power the sub and the sony to power a pr of 6x9's when I get them .. But at a later stage may go bigger and better hence why getting the bigger cables anyway.. not bad getting this lot for £30 inc vat and postage

20FT 4GAUGE RED POWER WIRE,

4FT 4GAUGE BLACK GROUND WIRE,

20FT 16GAUGE BLUE REMOTE TURN-ON WIRE,

20FT 12GAUGE SPEAKER CABLE,

20FT RIGHT ANGLE RCA INTERCONNECT AUDIO CABLE,

6FT BLACK SPLIT LOOM CABLE CONDUIT,

AGU TYPE 60A GOLD PLATED FUSE.

WATER RESISTANT INLINE FUSE HOLDER,

60A AGU FUSE INCLUDED,

2 RING TERMINALS 4GAUGE,

2 SPADE TERMINALS: 4GAUGE,

5 SPADE TERMINALS: 14-16GAUGE

3 BUTT CONNECTORS,

20 CABLE TIES,

1 BLACK GROMMET.

Its the cheapest I have seen around.. on eBay 5751784949

Dont forget I dont have the lex anymore :crybaby:

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Criag, you need to power the sub using the Sony as this is more of a mono amp rather than a stereo amp, on the specs I sent across, you'll notice that the bridged RMS is better on the Sony than on the Alpine. Don't use a bigger amp if the RMS is low on a bridged output, I also made this mistake, I'm now using the Sony to power a 200W Sub, I first used the Alpine but never gave as good a low feq as the Sony, the Alpine has got a good range all the way though the feq ranges but the Sony has a better low end range.

Hope this helps

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Criag, you need to power the sub using the Sony as this is more of a mono amp rather than a stereo amp, on the specs I sent across, you'll notice that the bridged RMS is better on the Sony than on the Alpine. Don't use a bigger amp if the RMS is low on a bridged output, I also made this mistake, I'm now using the Sony to power a 200W Sub, I first used the Alpine but never gave as good a low feq as the Sony, the Alpine has got a good range all the way though the feq ranges but the Sony has a better low end range.

Hope this helps

cheers for the heads up paul.. i was not sure which way to go..lol it was going to be a case or try it and see.. what do you think of that parcel 2 go they are great for shippng heavy items at a cheap price.. my work mate is going to call me when they arrive there..

Craig

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:lol: When you install the Sony Amp on the Sub, make sure you have turned Down the Output on the Amp to near Min, this will be the only adjuster near the RCA Inputs, and then turn up until you are comfortable with the way the Sub is sounding, and then just adjust the bass and volume from your H/Unit, you may need to adjust the Output to get the sound you want.

The Alpine amp has an Auto-Adjuster and will give the best range pending on the speakers used and the power from your H/Unit.

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Hey Am, can you tell me how much it would be for the following items (pm me if you want, no silly amounts now! :P )

distribution block - 1/0 in two 4 guage outs

a ground block ^^^

4awg power and ground wire - 20ft needed (10 of each)

11awg - 6ft needed

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If you're using the sub from your GS, bear in mind it's 2 Ohms and most cheaper amps won't run 2 Ohms bridged.

You are right neither of the amps will run 2ohm bridged.. But I must admit i thought it was all 4 ohm in the gs300 o well If i have to go buy another sub it wont matter..lol

Craig

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