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My suggestion as you have said would have been to get the manifold drilled and tapped for the second sensor and just blank off the original hole.

Although I wouldn't see any prob with putting it in the down pipe if it makes things easier.

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The two sensor on Elliots manifold are already positioned just before the turbo where the exhausts merge so they will give the same reading anyway.

I personally would still drill another hole on the manifold beside the original hole but I wouldn't see any difference if it was in the down pipe other than the flow speed before and after the turbo.

Safest bet is still to drill the manifold I reckon though.

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I thought that the suggestion was that there were two separate flows still where those sensors are.

If not, then sod it, I'd absolutely try using just one sensor with a split signal first.

If not, then yeah, reposition them in the downpipe.

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I thought that the suggestion was that there were two separate flows still where those sensors are.

If not, then sod it, I'd absolutely try using just one sensor with a split signal first.

If not, then yeah, reposition them in the downpipe.

Yeah im gonna try splitting the feed first then if that doesnt work out comes the drill lol (think i'll get a garage to do that)

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Yeah Elliot take the manifold to an engineering company. As it is cast it will prob need professionally done.

You would be better finding out which wire is the signal wire on the sensors first before you cut all of them. This way you can still plug the original two plugs in which will give the second sensor it's own power source. Then just splice into the signal wire/s alone.

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Yeah Elliot take the manifold to an engineering company. As it is cast it will prob need professionally done.

You would be better finding out which wire is the signal wire on the sensors first before you cut all of them. This way you can still plug the original two plugs in which will give the second sensor it's own power source. Then just splice into the signal wire/s alone.

A cunning plan young man, i will try and figure out which is which. Doing loads of overtime so cant do any work till weekend :(

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Yeah Elliot take the manifold to an engineering company. As it is cast it will prob need professionally done.

You would be better finding out which wire is the signal wire on the sensors first before you cut all of them. This way you can still plug the original two plugs in which will give the second sensor it's own power source. Then just splice into the signal wire/s alone.

A cunning plan young man, i will try and figure out which is which. Doing loads of overtime so cant do any work till weekend :(

Hum....Thought you were getting rid of the second sensor so no heater required for that?

The signal wires that you need are the blue and the white, blue is signal and white is ground. The two black wires are the heater so make sure that you properly insulate the ends, or take them out of the connector altogether when you cut the plug off.

I would still be a bit wary of the plan, this is the wave form from a Zirconia lambda sensor

lambda_zirconia.png

Your are looking at a max of about 0.4v peak to peak which is not a lot, splitting the signal may pull the voltage down because of feeding two inputs causing duff readings, even a small variation would be significant to the fuelling. However I don't know the electrical characteristics of the inputs so can't say for sure.

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I am just thinking on this about the possible probs with splitting the signal and causing different voltage, therefore wrong fuelling.

Could this problem not be overcome when mapping the car anyway. As the fuelling has to be setup when mapping, could you not compare the readings from the standard sensors with a reading from a seperate sensor temporarily positioned in the tail pipe?

This way you could determine if the readings are wrong from the standard sensors.

If they are right then the problem is solved. If they are wrong then surely the fuelling could be adjusted according to difference in voltage that the standard sensors provide, so that when mapping the car, the calculations have already been done to give the new A/F ratio needed as a target to aim for. The tail pipe sensor could be used also during the mapping process to ensure that the "real" A/F ratio is correct.

Once mapping is done you would save the map and do away with the tail pipe sensor.

I know that all sounds a bit messy and could be a silly idea but it could also be a possible solution

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Ok now need a little more help as the BOV isnt dumping, and the boost gauge isnt working. Me thinks i might have cut into the wrong vac pipe.

Ok this is what ive done already, thought it was right but may be wrong

240320071270.jpg

this is the pipe i have plumbed into

240320071269.jpg

but in this photo u can see there are 2 vac pipes.

The one with white stars on (thats the one that ive plumbed into)

But there is another one that loops behind it. Literaly it just loops from there back down to just below the picture.

240320071271.jpg

Any one know why isnt not dumping ?????

CHeers

O yeah a little vid for you :D

th_24032007064.jpg

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have you used the car to see if its dumping or is the car standing still and you just puting your foot down and seeing if it dumps ?

just revving but, it deffo not dumping as can hear the air going back through the fins of the turbo, making that fluttering noise.

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can you get a better pic,s of the 2 pipes then i would see if you cut into the right pipe or not, but as it is i can not tell what pipe you have cut into from them pic,s you have posted ;)

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can you get a better pic,s of the 2 pipes then i would see if you cut into the right pipe or not, but as it is i can not tell what pipe you have cut into from them pic,s you have posted ;)

how many vac hoses are there??? i can only find 2, i have cut into the longer one of the two.

any thoughts?

Ellz

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i think its the bottom one that you should have cut into, but im not 100% as it was along time ago i did this, the info is on here somewhere ;)

The only thing you can do is dicconnet the pipe you have cut into , and try the 2nd pipe thats down there .....

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I didn't think it would dump until it's loaded? i.e your moving?

Could you also just sack off that pipe and dump to atmosphere to see if it works?

nope it will dump just needs to be high in the rev range. like all the chavs sitting at traffic light they just rev up and it dumps.

Yeah might have a go tomroat that other one. all that 2 pipe does tho is come out loop down and back into the block, not sure what for ?

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Ok re-plumbed the vac hoses and plugged other one up and hey presto it worked. Right pain in the arse tho as the hose is so short and its very tight to get hands in.

Started her up and checked a few things over, a tiny bit of oil dripping didnt know where from looked like from the sump.

So thought good time to take her out for a drive. I knew the fueling would be a bitch, drives fine out of boost but as soon as you floor it, its starts cutting (gotta be down to fueling) so just going round the block, just getting back to the drive and smoke from under the hood, :o i wasnt to please lol .

looks like when we put the rocker cover back on must have pinched the gasket, so now gonna buy new one of them. Oil pi**ed out all over the boat lol. Looks like a bit of oil from turbo feed so need to do that up tighter as well.

All in all bit of a annoying day, but ho hum. Now gotta re do rocket gasket and see if the sump is leaking. saw a tiny drip from just near the engine mounts but was really really small, hopefully be able to plug it up.

All i ca say tho is buggar me its sounds AMAZING. just going along when the boost gauge starts to go from vaccum to 0 boost massive swurl then the BOV dumps alllll SWEET :)

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