New Owner With Questions

[Rooster]

Hi from Australia everyone.

Not long ago got myself a nice unmodified car with about 190,000 miles on it.

First question: The car was delivered to me without a master key but the dealer promptly provided me with one. How is it that I can start the car with the buttonless key when I can use all of the remote functions that the master key provides? I've looked at the programming modes and as far as I can determine by reading up is that the set-up is currently in prohibition mode ... unless I'm missing something.

I haven't attempted any reprogramming; I'll be ordering more master keys beforehand.

Second question: Just to test the car out I accelerated from standstill with a wide open throttle and noticed quite a loud bang coming from the rear somewhere. If I use wide open throttle once the car is on the move, this bang isn't heard. I suspect diff or driveline but haven't had anyone look at it yet. There is minor periodic vibration at about 48mph up to say 55, then it goes away and comes back at a little bit higher speed, same minor vibration and again it goes away, it doesn't get any worse at the higher speed of its occurrence. Whatever could this be? Also, are the diff fill bolt and drain bolt crush washers the same part number?

Third question: I had to get the 1999 USA/Canadian workshop manuals because the RHD books for the Australian model are no longer available. Those books refer to there being a CEL but I don't see one on my dashboard. I've shone a torch on the cluster and it seems there is no provision for a CEL. Is that the situation for UK 1999's? I'm aware of "check engine" being able to be read from the place where it says "Right Hand Front Door Open", etc.

Fourth question: Re the "blown bulb" warning lamp in the dashboard, is it connected to the front parking lamps? The shape of the lamp "icon" gives me the idea that it's only for the rear lamps but I'm not sure. I am yet to fix a non working front parking lamp. This warning lamp comes on when I turn the ignition key to the ON position and remains on until I start the engine. Is the warning lamp working correctly? Also, there's a tone emitted from somewhere 5 seconds after I turn the key to ON, that's whether I've already started the engine before 5 seconds has passed or not. Can someone please tell me what that's for?

Fifth question: IN RHD vehicles is the main ECU fitted to the passenger side? It seems to be working alright though from researching I gather that it'd be prudent to have the capacitors replaced before any leakage from them destroys the circuit board. If anyone knows of a tutorial or can describe the steps to me of how to remove the ECU (and anything to be careful of or not to do) I'd be very appreciative. I looked in the How-To guide before and it seems there's not one there yet.

Many thanks in advance for any assistance.

[gkkes]

I would suggest that the tone emitted is a warning that the alarm is not set, which is why you are able to use the non electronic key.

If the dealer has supplied a "master" key, why aren't you using it? Remember that the "master" part is the Denso pack inside the key housing rather than the metal insert.

If searching for replacements look for Denso electronic parts with the button which has an indented triangle. Some eBay descriptions are deceiving. These keys also come in two lengths, either fit, but the long ones require a jiggle sometimes. Programming new keys from the master leads you to the pedal dance which is always fun!

I've only seen the blown bulb light in mine when a brake light went. Lexus UK considered a recall as this bulb was only 12 years old ;-)

The Check Engine Light along with other warnings will likely be as you suggest in the wording area on the dashboard.

MkIV's don't suffer with leaking caps as much as earlier generations I have read in the forum.

Enjoy

[Malc]

Maybe the periodic vibrations could be wheel balancing issues !!

Malc

[Ruud]

I would be inclined to say gearbox mounts. These might 'bang' and also cause vibration

[steve2006]

I agree transmission and engine mounts, get someone to rev the engine hard while you watch under the bonnet,the engine should show hardly any sideways movement,if it soes suspect engine mounts.

The CEL light is usually the little red miniture engine symbol on the dash display, should come on with ignition then go out after engine start.

The keys have 2 programme modes,one is to sycnronise the key to the alarm/immobiliser the other to programme remote locking/unlocking.

Blown bulb warning system on monitors the rear lights.

The bleep you hear after 5 seconds is usually accompanied with a message on the dash so check and see if anything appears there.

ECU is on left side (passenger for RHD models)

[Rooster]

Hi everyone,

I'm using the electronic key, just being very wary that I don't lose it.

Is there any difference if I lock the door with the key rather than the push buttons? Perhaps I haven't got my head quite around how all of this works yet.

The security light comes on either way using the master key and it even comes on with the buttonless key after locking the door with it.

The electronic component of the master key I now have came from an original Lexus key head which had cracked and broken. The unlock button has an indented triangle. I've just noticed for the first time that the key shaft on the key subsequently provided with the master head by the dealer is about 5mm longer then the original key shaft from the broken master's shell. It works okay.

Looking forward to the pedal dance spoken of !! (TIC) I'm going to try to purge any existing codes first. Hopefully I can sort everything out myself once I get more keys. FWIW, In passing, I asked a Lexus dealership about a new master key and they quoted me AU $650 cut and programmed. No thanks.

The wheels were balanced recently, if only that was the vibration problem...

I'll get someone to rev up the engine while I look for any tilting.

I've looked and looked for a CEL and I just don't see it. Certainly all check lights are off after a few seconds followed by the ALT and oil lights once the engine is started.

Thanks for the tips everyone.

Bob

[gkkes]

It is funny when I remember those first few weeks in my new 143,000 mile LS400.

I spent ages trying to understand the heating controls, what settings might be required for different conditions etc

I now know I don't have to worry about these trivial things! Auto is perfect for all scenarios!

Am I wrong in thinking "the car knows best"?

I returned to the car once in a car park, and shockingly the brake warning light was on. Oh no, I thought, massive bill alert! Blown bulb. £4 and the nice Lexus man fitted it.

I did replace the front brake pads recently and was surprised that the discs were floating.

Both sides were the same. There are 10 countersunk holes on the disc so plenty of options to screw to the hub. I do occasionally get slight wobble under braking, I wonder if anyone with greater knowledge could discount this as Roosters possible vibration issue?

[cruisermark]

the discs normally have 2 screw holding them.

[Rooster]

Hi again,

What does "the discs were floating" mean please? Was there play between the discs and the hubs?

I get very minor brake pedal pulsation when I push on the pedal, nothing that a disc machine won't fix, I hope. Hopefully there's still enough meat left for a minor machining.

The periodic vibrations I experience are more a "seat of the pants" thing.

cheers

[cruisermark]

Hi again,

What does "the discs were floating" mean please? Was there play between the discs and the hubs?

I get very minor brake pedal pulsation when I push on the pedal, nothing that a disc machine won't fix, I hope. Hopefully there's still enough meat left for a minor machining.

The periodic vibrations I experience are more a "seat of the pants" thing.

cheers

perhaps this post below might be of some use reference brake pulse/judder

http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/91245-brake-judder-totally-gone-and-this-is-how/

[plastic orange]

There's no bolts holding the discs to the hubs on mine. I just replaced the discs yesterday with pagid items - time will tell if they are any better than either lexus or blueprint parts. I experienced a slight 'wobble' at round 10k, increasing slightly till replaced at around 25k. I'll probably get the old discs skimmed, but as I was only £95 for a new pair may just renew when time comes. I once again made sure that the hubs were properly cleaned (as I do each time) and now have a wobble free car.

Pete

[Rooster]

Thanks for that link Mark. Leaves me to wonder what the faces of the rims that mount to the hub could be like too.