Tinonline

Yeh I got a pair of struts for ok price. Easy to fit and it’s one of those step by step prop it open jobs. Those clips on the air filter...and the housing...I remember in the old days...one nut, cover off Bob is one’s uncle. 🧐

You’d think it should be easy peasy. I slightly damaged the casing getting the thing to do what it should. Mine was a BluePrint filter but recollection recalls the unbelievable stupid design of the unit, in an inaccessible position.

Oh that’s the steering wheel...to steer. I just use it to hang on to and wiggle like they did in the old movies. I thought the satnav did the steering.😳

Steve, Steve, Take a moment. Deep breath. You don’t “need” the options. Since when has this held any real relevance other than in justification for a purchase? So, if you want the car, the extras become a need. If you really can’t rationalise your need for these valuable baubles...next level is “nice to have” as the car is exactly what you need anyway. Always buy up, as those extras will help you sell on in the rare event you sell a Lexus. Oh and how they make you feel better. Unless you’re a pokey dealer. Then you really don’t give a ****...you just polish it, and over sell it. You know those adds that make the features look like their extras when they are standard. That.

Well they are fairly new so as expected give years of service.

According to other posts this is not all that it seems. Buyer beware, here be dragons.

I used my electric impact wrench followed by torque wrench. After a few miles I’ll recheck everything.

I used my electric impact wrench followed by torque wrench. After a few miles I’ll recheck everything.

Brake job is done done now with replacement of the disc retaining screws, cheap at a quid and a bit each plus the sensor clip which was an immodest £10 approx. Correctly torqued up the wheel nuts. All done.

I finished a tube of Carlube copper grease and it was ok...only ok as it seemed too runny or just not a quality consistency. A tube of QX stuff from Euro car parts though is much better and it’s good stuff. A bit more like the old copperslip branded grease I was accustomed too.

Sorry to be a pain...they are not supposed to be lubed. Held firm with no slip/movement. What make are the roll bar bushes? What torque have you applied to the brackets? I use brake cleaner for getting rid of debris and grit, things that can cause friction and noise. They might have settled after bedding in.

Yep and the shims need copperslip too...

Firmly tight. There’s a few things I don’t use one of my 3 torque wrenches for...this is one of them. Nice long bolt with a quality gasket so it seals well.

Very nice...🍻👍

Yep worth checking to see if anything has parted. Mind you metal can sound like rubber when it’s a mind to. Put it this way I don’t think you’ve caused damage...how about the lower stabiliser bush that does the camber. That gets truly pulled when you drop the suspension.

Ah these are Optifit so not as premium as Oe part number according to Toyota themselves. But better than non Toyota. Now, take a look at BluePrint prices...you can get rear discs and pads for approx £89 free postage. What to do?🤪

Nice but worn driver’s seat bolster at that mileage? Maybe on my Jag with its high supporting seat...can’t tell as the dpi of the pics is poor so I can’t expand the image to check the interior. Shame that trade gets hold and sells these vehicles...rather buy from an enthusiast. Looks fab...tyres are low profile on LS360 wheels makes it looks ride height look high? I look forward to the learned comments we will get on its MOT history from my Forum friends. For a straight car...that’s far too cheap.

Ok cheers I’ll take a look👍

Well the fronts are done and I’m bedding them in. Braking is smooth, effective and quiet with the Lexus OEM discs and pads. I might as well do the rears as it looks like around 6000miles difference between previous changes without sacrificing the brake sensor. From my fave Lexus source even with a discount pads are £76 and usually the rears are cheaper. My fronts were miles cheaper than this. I’ve got one pad change before the discs are replaced. The only other so called Toyota Oe is the Optifit at £55 or so that’s not exactly OEM but to Oe and validated by Toyota. They can be made by a number of manufacturers. I’ve been sticking to original parts but wonder whether I go for either Optifit or Blueprint ones. BluePrint can be had for 30 quid. I’m surprised by the lack of OE stock available in the UK online at competing prices given I got the fronts for a bargain 190 quid discs and pads. I’m pee’d off by adverts saying OE quality in their ads stealing the OE search results when they are anything but. 🧐 Simon

Oh Birmingham UK. Thanks Colin M 👍 yes I believe it is Connor. Lexus parts are best bet or if you can’t swallow the price good brand will be ok. AirtexWells are big players and US is highly litigious so generally stuff is ok. Your Lexus units have done good service. I try and keep to OEM but have a Pagid brake sensor, Continental drive belt, BluePrint air and cabin filters, Gates cambelt kit and pulleys, water pump. Thermostat non oe. OEM: front brake pads/discs; spark plugs, oil filter, clips, bolts, washers and drain plugs. Battery. Bushes. It is difficult to justify high cost parts on a car that is worth so little...or is it? About time we had specific safety standards and manufacturing reports on components.

Hi Darren You have a few options: if you have time and the exchange rates and delivery don’t spoil things, Rock Auto in the US are worth a look. Don't give up on Lexus: Lexus Birmingham will post and are prepared to give a 25% discount. Breakers are a source too. What mileage has the motor done? simon

Job almost done with a new screw required and I’m going to renew the speed sensor clip as it’s past it’s best. The pins, shims looked ok and I cleaned them up and applied copperslip to the surfaces. To remove the screw, I used a large drill bit that took the head off. Applying WD40 to it I removed with grips and thankfully it came out very easily. Pad wear was even and consistent on both sides and calipers were in good nick too with mileage now at 84k. Pressing the calipers back was tougher on the passenger side and they need to go back enough for the shims to fit with ease. Checking the service records, the rear pads won’t be far behind and to preserve the sensor, I’ll do that job soon. I reckon that the rear discs will take another set of pads before needing replacement. It’s a satisfying job that can turn into a horrible one when bolts and screws are frozen solid.

Happy New Year! I tried heat but that didn’t do it. I had a back up plan. I drove a couple of miles to a friendly tyre and exhaust place where they’ve looked after my mots for years. Bit of beer money and they did it in a few seconds from the ramp. I’ll remember your tip-oh that would have done it. I have a mangled screw that holds the disc on, I’ll have to drill it out...always something otherwise this would have been a straight forward job. 🤪

I’ll do a write up with some photos on this as what the guides only tell you is a straight forward “how to” not wtf do I do now guide. I’m fitting Lexus discs, pads and if you get your brake warning light on, that sensor. I’ve done discs on TR6, Renault 25, Porsche 911, BMW 635, Jag XKR, etc. etc. My Mk4 has a complete 4 pot caliper unit; one wear sensor on the driver’s side as standard. There are x2 anti-squeal shims each side against the calipers and x2 clips that squeeze under each pad. I used a punch to work out the pads as pliers or grips could not do this. Tapping out top and bottom with a hammer. The caliper bolts on driver’s side were “just beautiful” as Trump would say...then one retaining screw came out like silk. The other? Stuck fast and I changed Phillips driver options as I dare not risk shredding the head. More WD40. Then, when you least want to go, had to eat lunch. (Good time to break though). Post rest: I used the big end of the punch and gave the screw a number of sharp bangs with a hammer. Finding a snugger fit driver, much to my surprise without any effort, the screw released. There was no point completing the driver side without fitting a new wear sensor so I set about disassembling the other side. To be continued: seized upper caliper bolt. My high torque impact wrench won’t budge it, I can’t get leverage... Ordered the wear sensor, charging the battery over night-it’s cold and I’ve not used the car for weeks...I’ve got a heat gun thing for the weeds that will put some heat on.... What they don’t tell you in the guides...🤪

Merry Christmas🍻🎅 Sounds like a bottom hose or radiator leak forcing water and steam out in the steering pump area. I can’t remember how the reservoir return is routed. To get a good view you need to either remove the lower engine cover or the plastic covers, air channel at the top of the engine. You should see coloured powdery deposits from the leak area and if lucky dripping coolant and evidence of said leak. Now I’m assuming your engine is running fine and there’s no water in the oil if you check the oil level or signs of salad cream deposit like stuff in the neck of the oil filler cap: that would point to a blown head gasket on the bank on that side. Have a good look with a torch...thermostat area and under...check water pump gasket as it’s a biggish area and anything coming from the engine might point to that. 🧐