bazgtr

After all the good replies I've had, NONE . I've managed to sort this problem out. Had a hint from steve in a previous thread about a wire from the later ls model. Searched the whole net and the other lexus sites with no answer but stating the same problems. Steve mentioned a light source to the AC?heater control unit. This white/green wire was from the main factory power source plug which you don't need to power the aftermarket stereo, But you do need to reconnect it to the large white plug into pin 13(Brown) to power the illumination of the ac/heater in the dark. Please note this will only power that set of night time running lights. That is the big mistake a lot of other ls owners got themself's into. As read many threads with only half of the buttons illuminated on the centre dash. There is another illumination light feed from the same main factory power plug(green wire with brown rings on it) which must also be connected to the larger white factory plug which has the orange wire coming out of it. It's about four spaces to the right of where you've connected the white/green wire into(pin 13). This feed will then power the heater seat buttons, headlight washers etc. With the power aerial I could not get to work off the power source of the aftermarket stereo so pluged the black wire into the RED ACC to work off the ignition key. Just a quick go at getting to work, My try again at later date. IF this information has finally sorted out your button illumination problem then just leave a thanks message. Hope this helps.

After fitting new lcd screen and stereo I've lost the illumination lights for all the centre dash button lights. My model is a 1993 UCF11 LS400. They come on when switching to tail or main beam, but are not. :tsktsk: I've checked the wiring and all seems fine. Checked the main Panal 15amp fuse and that is ok with current flowing through it. Also have checked the rheostat control box(Got cont&curr) all ok and the operation of the rheostat dimmer. Dimmer light on main dash and green led button lights work fine, So I think my problem is elsewhere. Anybody had this and cured it. Is there a wire from the old stereo connections(3 in all) that have to be fitted as only used one connector/wires from old stereo. I'm stumped after all last weekend checking the car.

Lexus have qouted you a price for the master keys for the car. I had two master keys cut ready and a new chip(Central locking) for the boot for £170 all in from lexus coventry. It did come with a message saying that if the lock or ignition barrel had been changed on the car then I would be buggered :tsktsk: with no refunds . For me it hadn't after new chip all was fine :winky: .

Thanks tiger, the links have proved to be cheap - wether they are reliable or not (only a 2yr guarantee) remains to be seen but at that price and the cost of the rest of the work, then it seems the best short term fix.... Info on the lambda sensor too so loads to look into before deciding if its worth fixing at all, selling for parts or the dreaded thought of scrapping such a quality motor :duh: Its strangely becoming one of the hardest decisions i've ever had to make Send me a pm on what's left to do on the car and i'll point you in the right direction. Barrie.

Wait for a good dry day and run the car for a bit. Then have a look around for a wet patch that simply wont dry. Might find it's a jubliee clip on one of the hoses that leeks when car is at temp and full pressure. Is both hoses on either side of the engine warm when car is at temp(This will check the water pump & themostat is working correctly and water is flowing). Also shine a touch down the gap near the top of the engine to shine light on the water pump to see if it's leeking from underneath it, As the gasket does leek on the early ls400's as as common fault over time.

Here's a quick list of makers and numbers as someone asked me months ago for a part number but only now have found it. LS400 1990-1994. EIBACH----------------EIB-8225.140 INTRAX-------------- INX751071 H&R--------------------52425 K-SPORT--------------CLX140-KP (Coilovers) TANABE-------------- DF210 Japanese Options. JUN-------------------D-SP (Coilovers) TEIN------------------ COMFORT SPORT(coilovers) ADVOC--------------- Tom's Racing (coilovers) KONI ----------------- scherzen(coilovers) JIC-------------------- VIP (Coilovers) JIC--------------------- X-MAGIC (Lowering springs only) ESPELLIR-------------- EST-073 (Lowering springs only) RSR-------------------- Ti2000 (Lowering Springs only) BUDDY CLUB---------- SEDAN SPEC DAMPER(Coilovers) GREDDY--------------- TYG033 ??Maybe (Lowering springs only) ZOOM------------------ (Lowerings springs only) Most of the Japanese can be bought from two firms which will send to the UK, They are RHD Japan and nengun.

My ls400 1993 does the same. But can get rid of this buy selecting and pushing in the side/thumb button when going from N to D at the lights. This gets rid of the bump. I had/have the same niggle. There's nothing major to worry about.

I had my new set off ebay from a main lexus dealer selling off old stock. I paid £30 for a genuine new lexus pair. There is a lot of main dealer parts coming up on ebay from old stock. Must be the credit crunch. Just watch and wait, As they do turn up. There's also a lot of aftermarket discs about now or you can do a supra brake upgrade.

Drop the box out of D and into 2 really helps with the aid of engine braking on this type of car. 200sx is a sports car which is half the weight of the ls and the clio is also really light car. Another fact is that the ls is a tourer not a sports car, Just get off the gas and cruise in comfort and relax.

The car will idle more when cold until it gets warm and the idle will also go up when enging the AC as it's well stated that running air con puts an extra strain on any engine.

I think rudd you misunderstood. My last message was for Teamdaz to show my tv screen fitted in my car.

I've changed the standard system with the ebay lcd 7inch sytem(double din) which has the freewiew option. it does work in the car. Great for watching match of the day or sky sports. You will lose the rear sub woofer but the new system does comne with an option to run a sub woofer, you just have to run new wiring form the unit to the speaker for the rear sub to work. you can also get some new amp and run it that way. goit any photos of the unit in place? the idea of freeview in the front (as well as the headrests) is appealing.... and using it for a reversing camera too Send me your email as can't post pics on this site. Which is a pain for a owners club unlike most other car owners club which allows pics to be posted under manage attachements.

What year was your car and what other vaults do you have?

That is the problem but you're spraying the wrong area. You've got some rust on the lock on the inside in between the two moving parts which are sticking together. You can't see the bits really unless you have a small mirror to slide in behind and a good touch. It's a bugger to see. If I remember a long flat blade screwdriver to prise the parts apart and then spray wd40(with straw attached) in between them. To find the part location you can take off the top link going north off the lock and can manually move the item up and down working the oil in and freeing it up a little. You'll know when you get in behind the door lock. You may free up the unit but might have to do it again in about a months time when hot weather returns. I did mine three times in my first five months, But has know gone and works fine for the last year. Hope that makes a little sense.

Check out my thread on vortex results with the two different fuels. The high octane was worse. on tank millage.

Have updated the thread with results.

It's been a while and forgot tom leave some results from this item. Firstly heres the results form the item fitted to my car. The car was filled up at a local supermarket(Mor?) for all four tests using their petrol. The car did with the item fitted on 95 octane to a full tank with the low level light coming on. 1) 330 2) 328 So tried the car with high octane fuel and was suprised with the results. 1) 310 2) 308 I found the car was worse on the high octane 98 fuel on the standard ECU so never going to use that dear stuff again on this car. I will now remove the vortex and see how it goes on both fuels. I know some people will mention more or less millage on their car but this was on my car with my driving style and weekly millage. I will update the results from removing the item in due course.

I've changed the standard system with the ebay lcd 7inch sytem(double din) which has the freewiew option. it does work in the car. Great for watching match of the day or sky sports. You will lose the rear sub woofer but the new system does comne with an option to run a sub woofer, you just have to run new wiring form the unit to the speaker for the rear sub to work. you can also get some new amp and run it that way.

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hello I've read above but must have lissed the year of the ls400. If it's a 94 or earlier you should have no problems refiring the pistions, But late one then maybe a few things after refiring that might give you a few problems on running right. If you have an 1993 1994 ucf11 or ucf10 1990 1992 models then just ask if you need info or have a look at some of my threads, that should help.

Here's a little update on the rear suspension. Been talking to PRI racing in getting the correct rear anti rolll bar bush. Picture below. Here's the size for the UCF10 and UCF 11 1990 to 1994. Later models have wider anti roll bar. PRI racing super pro number for this item is TO FOLLOW. Also. Have listed the rear anti roll bar links from Blue Print. The part number is ADT38525 and cost me £24 plus VAT each. These will only fit the UCF 10 11 models 1990 - 1994. Later have a thicker screw thread running off the link which won't fit through the earlier anti roll bar.

I hope this car is not a silver one I've been asked about and the one thats been on Ebay all week? A LS without at least one master key is a stolen one.

More pics and details on lexls.com Easy job really.

Just goto any garage and ask them to blow an air line up it. Then cures it 99% of the time.

Need more info on this. Speed and front or back wobble. Jack up the front wheels and try moving the tyre by holding it North south for play and then east west for any movement or knocking noise or movement from it.