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Whitey, not sure why the pipe steps down like it does, it's just designed that way. Cous3, the t-clamp were perfect, they still have more room to be tightened. I was tempted to cut the hose at the throttle body at an angle so the hose points more downwards towards the front, but decided not to in the end as i would end up having to order another elbow hose, if it went wrong lol. Yeah, i notice there was very slight rubbing at the induction pipe where it bends. Will see it better after a week of driving and will do what is necessary to prevent it. Next would be the slam panel and the engine cover. I dummy fitted the engine cover today and i may have to modify the way the oil breather hose is connected and unfortunately the engine plate also covers over the induction bracket, so i will have to look elsewhere to clamp down the induction pipe in place. I don't want to cut any bits off the engine plate unless it is really the last resort. Will see when i try fitting it maybe tomorrow.

Thats really nice. Bet it's going to take a while to get rid of the grin on your face lol. Have you declared it to your insurance company?

Thought i start another post as the title of my previous POST is irrelevent. Now i've got it fitted as i like it to be, so just an update really from last time. Finally got the elbow hose that fits the throttle body. I've also cut about 6cm off to old hose to use as a sleeve for induction pipe, which made it fit very well. This just goes to show how much bigger i needed the hose to be to fit the throttle body! Anyway here it is so far :- Induction kit on and cleaned the engine bay up a bit since last time (1st time ever since i've had my lexus (3 Yrs)). You will notice i've attached a sleeve near mid-section around the induction pipe to stop the engine part rubbing against the pipe. The T-bolt clamp is a bit of an over kill lol, also installed the suspension plates. Eagle eye ones amongst you would have noticed i had no manifold heatshield. Thats because they are being sprayed along with the bolts and radiator clamps. Once these are done i wll then install the slam panel.

thanks chris!! you dont happen to still be at holdcroft lexus do you?? Heres a clue :- "(EX) - Lexus Parts Person" lol

Yes it does from what i've heard, and the IS stands for "Intelligent Sport". But forgot what the SE stands for.

Mans done a runner! Left the country with nothing but an AC unit lol.

Wow, now i know why ur after one, never seen that bumper before!

I'm using jubilee clips at the moment to hold the hoses (it's all i have), but im going to change them to t-bolt clips, never used them before, but they look more tidy than jubilee clips. THESE (Item number : 290274524195)

Someones been to Halfords lol. There always a mix feelings about fuel additives, me personally wouldn't touch them because my engine is fine (touch wood) and adding something like additives might create more problems later on. As they say, if its not broken, don't try and fix it lol.

The hose i got is this one "68mm Silicone Elbow 90 Degree Hose Turbo Silicon Blue" HERE (Item number: 290274246224). Bare in mind the diameter is one that will fit mine, but may not necessary fit your throttle body, best to measure up the hose u currently have and get the one with the same size. Once my engine cover goes on you won't see the blue oil breather hose which is a shame lol. p.s i can see why u like blue lol and yes i will clean the engine once the work is done.

Any pictures of what it looks like?

So the cars fine now that u have 215's all round? I was thinking when i read ur post i might get wider wheels for the rear as it's rear wheel drive...think i'll stick to 215 then lol, if you found it causes problems with 225s.

Not sure what group lexus is200 is in but im with Adrian Flux, they were £100's cheaper than directline (had no mods when i was with them) and i had been with directline for 2 yrs.

What make of springs do you use? TBH at 80 mph i wouldn't do any sudden turnings anyway, just straight, so not really tested my is200. but i have to admit the lexus does put the jibbies on me when at those speeds, but then i don't have a spoiler...maybe that will make a difference once you start going at speeds above 70?

I've tried smudging grease on it, but it was simply too tight of a fit to go over the throttle body. Nevermind, it's split now anyway, so ordered a blue 90 degrees elbow hose. This will also match the blue oil breather. I've also taken account when buying this new hose that the induction pipe will fit into it at the other end, so im going for 68mm, rather than 70mm, as the induction tube has a nice fit at 65mm OD, but with a nice new ace t-bolt clips (never used these before but they look cool lol) will tighten it up nicely. After fitting the kit, i didn't wait around to dummy fit the engine cover. I was straight out on a road test with my OBD reader, was a really nice day but by the time i got back the weather turned from sunny to rain clouds above in like 1 hr! The reason is that there no point seeing if the cover would fit, if the kit wasn't even on properly, the angle of it may have to be changed etc. I've noticed on yours Keith that you managed to keep the cover above the alternator, i couldn't do that on mine, had to take it off. At the moment the bracket of the induction tube isn't connected to anything, but it's secure enough, it's not going anywhere. Will upload image once i get it all on properly. TBH now after i have seen what an induction kit consists of, it's not difficult to make one of your own (and i know someone on here has and i remember it was very well made) and be considerably cheaper than buying the kit. The only diffcult part i would think to get hold of is the chrome pipe itself as it has to be angled correctly and that the diameter of the holes at each end is slightly different size, but i wouldn't have thought it's essential.

Personally i would get a new caliper and pads, rather then doing this on the cheap (which hasn't worked) and end up one day endangering your own life or someone elses. Not worth it, get it done properly, but thats my own opion.

I would stand your ground and get the money back from him, if it comes to it, contact the police, should this go to court. Why should you pay for something that didn't need replacing because the mechanic doesn't know what he's doing? Have you signed anything to say that you are liable to pay for the parts he replaced that didn't need to be? Another point, has your mechanic explained to you what he was going to do and you have given him oral permission to change parts and that you agree to pay for the parts and labour even if it doesn't fix the problem? But this is his word against yours and end of the day it's whats on paper that really counts. Another thing, don't pay him anymore and leave your car at the garage, because the minute you take the car, it bascially means you accept the work he's done and getting back the money will be alot more difficult.

Yep, that'll do the job. The type i'm using is this (Ebay item number: 270365592164), but it simply does the same job. Hook it up to the OBDII connection to the lexus (located just under the drivers right knee, has a cap on it, think it's orange), start the engine, run the software (Proscan or Engine Check). And thats it, very simple, although i have tried other software i find proscan is the better ones out there and enginecheck looks quite good, but theres no point for me to use it as proscan does all that i want. It's also worth looking into the bluetooth OBDII readers as they've started to appear, but can't comment on them as i have never used them. I have mine connected all the time (OBDII reader part), the usb lead runs round the steering column and down the centre console along the bottom (left of drivers seat) and over to the passenger side ready to be connected for when i need to.

Hmmm...worth keeping an eye on how the discs/pads behave because thats very cheap for a set of those. Maybe it's the last stock and they need to get rid of them?

It's not just the coolant overflow is it? In which case it doesn't join anything (need to check on my car) just drips down onto road like it suppose to.

You have to take into account of how much milage your standard shocks has done. Fitting 40mm lowering springs to a pair of 100k+ shocks will certainly shorten the life of them and you will end up paying @£80 per shock and cost of fitting, if you add up the sum, it is just like paying for new coil overs. I was going to purchase just lowering springs, but have in the end decided to get coil overs instead. The only reason why i was put off by coil overs (apart from price) was that one of my family members had fitted coil overs in his car and ended up changing back to standard shocks as the ride was awful. But after reading up, he probably went for the design where it compressed the spring and the lower you go the more harsh and uncomfortable the ride is rather than the true coilover where lowering doesn't compromise the ride comfort. It's also worth getting tracking checked after having lowering springs and definitely for coilovers.

They actually look quite good and very cost effective.

The cost of the engine+the swap would cost equivalent to years of petrol, except all upfront instead of spreading over the years lol and only after a good few years would you start to actually make the savings. Does the HKS hi-slient come with a cat? (not the furry type that climb up the curtains).

Cheers Mat for pointing out about the throttle body. I'm prefering to keep the seals round the throttle body, also seems like a mission to get them off without damaging them. It doesn't make the diameter any larger (0.5mm if that). There's like a smaller recess where the seals sit anyway at the neck of the throttle body. It's the actual throttle body part that the induction hose has problem fitting. But nevermind, just had to order a slightly larger elbow hose (in blue). I think it's holding at the moment, but just feels like half the job is done and i don't really want to open the bonnet everyday to make sure the hose hasn't come away from the throttle body. Yeah, the engine covers nice, from Bazzas car, only just sprayed the brackets that he gave me and it's going to be like a puzzle working out which of the 4 brackets fit onto which engine part lol. Will also let the insurance know about the kit. Wonder how much they will add on top..£10. £20, hopefully, nothing?

Anyone past their MOT using 8000k HIDs?