kev dood

firstly - expensive HDMI cables will make some difference on things like the PS3 running 1080p modes as the data rates are much higher than 720p/1080i. Branded HDMI 1.3 cables are best (similar to branded USB cables) they have been compliance tested to the spec - cheap ones unbranded with USB logo or HDMI logo won't have been. Anyway - to the question. Sounds like a dodgy Sky box to me. Don't worry about TV mode, you don't say what TV you have but I presume its a 720p panel resolution (i.e. 1366x768) and not 1080 (1920x1080). The panel is a fixed res so will upscale anything that comes in that doesn match it. Sky HD I think I am right in saying, is mainly (if not all) 1080i in which case the TV should show it ok. When on SD channels the will output standard 576i SD (same as normal Sky box) but via HDMI (which you say you use). If the box outputs the SD on the SCART ok (which should be set to RGB for best picture (component)) then probably the box. But, try a different TV just incase. Could be a problem with the TV when in SD modes via HDMI input. Sorry, just re read your post. If they have tried different boxes then points to you TV at fault. Call LG and see what they say - sounds like HDMI modes are not switching properly. Could be getting resolution wrong then upscaling it wrongly? Blu-ray from a laptop - umm I though that the video output from a blu-ray laptop was downscaled to SD only due to copyright issues - you sure its in HD? Also, Blu-ray is HD, so if you are checking HDMI path with that on the TV then won't help you too much. May even be a compatibility issue with the Sky HD boxes and LG sets (it has been known before for other makes). Could be then due to LG support of HDMI - is it 1.3? BTW - I work for Sony TV group designing LCD tv's so know a tad - though often make mistakes!! :) I would say though that after watching HD for a bit, SD will look poor. Could it be that? Broadcast quality SD is not as good as DVD remember. Also try to check using say BBC1 during peak viewing (say 9pm) as bit rates will be higher. Especially during high profile programmes like Robin Hood or Hotel babylon which are filmed in HD.

one of the key fobs should also have a small metal tag with a code on it - they need that for the imobiliser i think.

I presume these are not original lexus parts but some other brand?

Tony Bones at WIM has developed a custom set of geometry settings for the IS to improve the handling and reduce the inner tyre wear issue on the IS

Well personally I would say it was the head gasket - unless you have bene doing shed loads of very short journeys. Just cos the gasket is going doesnt mean the car will over heat - depends on just how gone it really is. I am sure that if it is that, then the garage will own up to the fix as the labour wont be so cheap. They could get the cost back through whoever provides their warrenty cover. If they are gonna bill ya, then they should call you to let you know first. If you walk into a big bill then just refuse to pay it and tell them to put it back how it was! Standard is most garages to call before as they know most people refuse to pay if they dont.

Looking at the open door area, if you pull off a bit of the rubber that goes around the door frame at the bottom right, i.e. near the kick panel - (a pic would show a lot more than my poor explanations!)... then get on your hands and knees and look to the right of the throttle peddle, there is a nut that keeps the plastic kick panel on - plus I think there is one other/could be a screw. Anyway, will be fairly obvious. Take the panel off (the curved black plastic cover that stops you shoes kicking the RHS of the bottom side bit under the dash). You will see a load of relays and connectors etc. Feel the wiring all the way up the back of the dash and check for areas of water. Probably dried up by now, but thats the usual culprit. Seems the connector/harness for the headlights is the usual on that gets water running down it. If you do a search for headlights staying on - or anything to do with windscreen/autoglass replacement it should pull a load of info up. I dried all mine up and then stuck a bit of kitchen paper or something up in the harness bit just incase it happened again. So far (touch wood) its been fine.

You ever had a windscreen replaced? Sounds like water getting into the control panel behind the drivers footwell kick panel. Usually shows itself as headlights remaining on/coming on when car is off.

35k is doable easy on an IS. Mine did about 35-38k on first set - replaced all 4 together as all worn about the same. 2nd set is now on 60k and would all be fine except OSF inner edge is badly worn - annoys me as rest of tyre looks nearly new!! Must have knocked front settings out I guess, so after I have replaced my rear shocks I am gonna get WIM to set it up. Mind you, Micheldever Tyres in Hampshire (who have a good rep am machines) did the geometry a number of years ago, to Lexus settings and been fine. But am willing to put Tony (WIMs) new settings to the test and see how they fair. I think a lot must depend on the actual settings you have - Lexus settings have a range so if you are at one end maybe thats jus enough to be ok? PLUS, a huge amount depends on how you drive the car. I think lots of roundabouts may have helped do my OSF tyre in too!! :(

not against any rules I know - but that means nothing as I dont recall reading them!! :) Thats an OK price though not excellent, but then if they are near impossible to get nowadays then worth a tad more. BTW - are they the Lexus version, Made in Japan? I usually get mine from Micheldever or Headley tyres, but haven't tried recently.

Are you sure, I thought it was just the Bridgestones or Dunlops?

what dunlops did you get, where from and how much?? My front is well worn on the inner edge and may need a new one. Was sort of thinking the Sp9000 might be hard to get now? ta

was gonna say, potenza is just the sub brand, need the RE... bit too. I had heard something years ago on here that one of the versions, dunno if 040 or 050 was pants compared to the other. Would love to know as I may need new tyres fairly soon. Mind you, I have Dunlop SP9000 Sports and love em, lasted ages. BUT, make sure you get the Japan versions as they are the correct "Lexus" versions which are a different compound and stiffer side wall. Dunlop do NOT recommend the normal (made in germany I think) SP9000 for the IS200. Upsets the handling. I don;t know if you can still get the SP9000 Sports any more though! :-(

I would say, not so necessary. If ran of the cam belt then fair enough, as a new belt will put a bit more strain on the pump as its not as "slack" but ok to leave it or as you say, leave it til another day if you really want to do it.

yeah can do as there is too much 'back pressure' in the sump and then behind the piston. I have been told before that its worse the having it too low. Easiest way is to drain a bit from the sump plug.

could it be a gearbox mount? if idling and rev engine and it rocks a lot then maybe engine mounts, but if not then was just a though for gearbox ones??

it is fairly common on a carb car with say K&N that in the winter you can get the carb icing up - happened to my friends Fiat X19!!

Like the bit is says about the gear change being mainly smooth but sometimes jerky - then going on to say they wouldnt expect to see that in any Lexus - not driven the IS200 then!!

Can second ABM - Albin motors - Kevin, the guy that runs it is a nice guy and sorted mine out a treat. I should even remember if you mention it - Kevin Dodd, silver IS with sticking front calipers, LOC member. They are fairly honest guys - all ex Lexus Bromley, and will help you keep costs low if they can. With mine it is a case of freeing pistons with a g-cramp a few times and then re-greasing the sliding pins - which I have subsequently renewed.

DVLA are a nightmare at admitting they are wrong - apparently they never are. Sorry to hear about your father passing. This is the last you need! I think I know roughly where that garage was - along the highstreety bit? If so, wasnt that a Toyota dealer? Personally, I would give Lexus GB a call and see what they can tell you. If they have chassis no. etc down as a Lexus then they may be able to help you with DVLA getting the correct registration sorted. Their back up alone would help if they can confirm vehicle type. The earlier IS200's had Toyota badges on the windows etc, so if you have Lexus then I doubt it would ever have been a dodgy Toyota import thats got dubious history. And, if previous employee said they used to parallel import then makes sense. Bit of a pain though as doubt people were told this! nice! I guess its a bit like importing a VW or something from Holland or somewhere. Means they are generally worth less. Most important thing is not really the old bill, but the insurance company and what they would then class it as. Anyway, try Lexus first and get them to help you out - a friendly dealer might be able to help you too? Croydon seem OK (Purley Way).

from my knowledge, they all have a gap??

How come the front pads are the same as RRP? No chance of a discount?

I had the same issue with my IS (which has no isofix). The ONLY seat I found that everywhere seemed happy with was the Maxi-Cosi Tobi seat as this is one of the only seats specially designed to fit cars that suffer buckle crunch (which on the IS is due to the length of the seatbelt for the buckle side!

take a look here. Follow the links to parts or something and you can put your chassis no. in or just pick your model year etc. All the part numbers are shown.

There are 2 common problems with the IS brakes. One is a sticking piston (seems to be lower one!) which if you are lucky, you can free with a clamp and keep pressing in and pushing out. Clean up the whole caliper etc too while you are there. The other is sticking/corroding pins. This is very common and easy to fix. Buy new front pins and rubber dust boots etc and replace - simple to do and not too expensive. If its pins, you dont generally have to replace the carrier - sometimes if its really corroded then a mechie might say you do (I had that) but I didn't think it was that bad. I had to knock out one of the pins as it was so stuck. But with a quick clean up and plenty of lube (ooh err) it slipped back in nicely. Personally I would try this first before new calipers (which incidently DON'T come with new carriers - so you would need new ones of these anyway) as calipers etc are expensive!

why not mail them and ask them to call you - should be ok though, just have to be a tad more careful.