skeet94

JS820 - Did you have the balljoints checked out then?

Nice!! Just one question - did you have some sort of custom bracket made to fit the 2pot Supra caliper on the rear? Wondering as I'm looking at having the full Supra brake package put on the Aristo :)...already got my set of fronts, just need to see if I can fit the 2pot Supra rears on the back.

If you've got the offsets and wheel specifications that would help a great deal :). Bolt pattern is the same though so that shouldn't pose any problems.

I was told my rear steering rack had some play in it in the MOT last year, although just had it recently checked out by the local tire/alignment place and they said it's rock solid (confused). After having the new wheels put on, I had a alignment check done and everything was in spec in the rear and out of spec on the Toe in the front so was a little surprised. Will wait till my next MOT on the 6th November to see how it fares. The steering wheel and power mode paragraph I'm lost on. Just couldn't understand what you mean Aido...if you could elaborate a little more :).

I'm at 33 too...but it mostly depends on the tire/wheel size combo. Seems rock stable on mine at 33 psi on all four corners :). Scared to try any lower due to the "thinner" tire on the wheels.

That's pretty interesting to be honest...means that you'd be driving completely off boost and therefore better fuel economy too. Guess it enables power to build up as slow as possible even when you have your foot to the ground in snow mode hence no boost? I don't like snow mode as such though as the steering seems to get "heavier"? So just leave it in Normal in town driving and power on dual carriageway/motorway driving. Might give Snow mode a try though to see if it affects the MPG any on my next long journey. How's your alignment by the way on the rear?

Aido: Snow mode only adds a bit of..."lag"?? to acceleration and throttle response and starts off in 2nd gear...have you had a chance to get the new tires for the rear? As that may be the problem you're having with the car feeling like a "snake" when driving :). Only time I ever had that problem was when my alignment was WAY off and I had silly wear on the inside of my rear tires...apart from that I've noticed the Eagle F1 GS-D3's have a very "weak" sidewall which also makes the rear end "slide" much more easily.

From the video it seems like the Supra is a manual...manual's are known to be inconsistent in a 1/4 mile unless driven by a good driver...you need to launch the car right, have perfect gearchanges too. The other problem with a manual is loss of boost during gearchanges as opposed to an autobox where there is no loss of boost again giving the Aristo an advantage to running a consistant time. There's not so many variables in launching a car with a auto as opposed to a manual :). An auto you launch and stand on the accelerator...on a manual you have to launch, have perfect gear changes throughout the whole 1/4 mile :). Yoshi not to offend but you're wrong in this instance...Supra weighs less, has same power as the Aristo...also has a lower stock 0-60 and 1/4 mile time...some also came with a LSD in effect helping traction during launch. I don't see any possibility of a stock Automatic Supra losing out to a stock Automatic Aristo with identical drivers :).

Oh trust me I get Mercs and BMW's up my ***** flashing me and just accelerate a little and then let off after leaving them three or four car lengths behind with the B...then they calm down straight away. People always think the car's a GS300...just recently I had some woman in a Merc C280 try and race me on the A406...was on the right so just accelerated away...got up to a camera after a bridge and she kept on going...got flashed hehe...just hate people up my *****...and do whatever it takes to get rid of them...but a MICRA?! :duh:

Oh trust me, you can go get a large exhaust, a bodykit, everything...it'll still be a sleeper ;)...mostly due to lack of knowledge out there about our cars hehe...people just expect it to be a N/A 3.0L I6...instead of a 3.0L I6 TT ;). (hehe talk about trying to make you spend your money)

Yep exactly the same :). Why don't you pick up a nice kit for the car? Rear bumper, front lip, sideskirts while you're at it? ;).

I 2nd what Chips said...Chips I think he's from New Zealand...don't think Swift would be able to help him due to shipping costs :).

If your ATF is black you should get it changed...it should be a RED colour when all is well :).

What's the mileage on the car? Check ATF Fluid? What colour is the fluid? Red or rusty? If rusty change it out ASAP with Toyota Type IV fluid ... NOTHING ELSE :).

Trust me my EBC's are warped lol...not BADLY but cause steering vibration during braking :). The discs were already on there from two years ago since I've had the car, but the main reason for warpage is due to the fact of doing a few top end sprints and braking and holding the footbrake...now you can imagine how hot the brakes were :). Anyways your opinion has definitely persuaded me to pick up the DBA discs ... DBA 5000 series for the fronts on Supra calipers and DBA Gold series for the rear on stock 1 pot calipers.

Yoshi: Thanks mate...just glad it's possible without having to take it to the dealers :). Excellent! Thanks Gramps...will definitely need this when I get the brakes bled and upgraded...can't wait to have some VERY good stopping power with near minimum fade :).

Get the GTX Magnatec that is listed for a Supra TT at your local Halfords :)...it's what I'm using.

How long have you had the Gold discs? Any warping since you've had them? How is the brake fade? Asking as they only do the Gold discs for the GS300/Aristo...they don't do the 5000 series but since I've got the Supra calipers I can get away with using the 5000 series discs hehehe...and brake dust is not an issue whatsoever...even if I got like 5 mm of brake dust after a 2 hour drive I wouldn't mind as long as the brakes performed lol. Anybody else have any experience with them?

I'll let you know later on today what I've got... :) .

Yoshi you wouldn't happen to know the full procedure would you?

Just been looking for discs to go along with my Supra TT 4 pot Calipers and the rear stock 1 pot Calipers...figured since I'm upgrading I may as well do it once and do it right. Currently I'm looking at picking up a set of Goodridge Stainless Steel lines and some Motul 5.1...so now I'm looking at narrowing down discs and pads to go along with them. Came across the DBA 5000 series discs...for the fronts and a set of DBA Gold Slotted rotors for the rear. Has anybody had experience with any DBA discs? Which pads would one go with for maximum performance, with low noise...with brake dust not being an issue whatsoever. TIA

Gramps is right...although even with mods a standard OEM Oil filter is perfectly fine :). The link Gramps posted I'd definitely recommend :).

You can always pick up the standard OEM Toyota one from the dealer...you have the same oil filter as MKIV the Supra TT...so just pick up a oil filter for that. If you want something like a Power Enterprise or TRD Japan then check out GazWalker :).

Your braking performance will also be affected hence upgrading the front brakes with Supra Calipers/pads/discs and getting uprated discs for the rear to maintain as much balance as possible.

Hi, Bragging whos Bragging :D Chips. LOL. Well I'm assuming he's going for 20's cos he might want to say "yo g, my lex rides on dubs" (just kidding) If there's one thing I've noticed is that the 19's I've got, weigh about 2kg more than the stock 17's. Car isn't noticably slow either. I know if I went with some cheap 19's or even some cheap 18's, I'd have slowed the car down alot, not to mention braking would be even more affected (one thing that is directly affected with my choice of going with 19's). If you want to buy wheels look for the following: Make sure it's a Forged wheel and not a cast wheel. Forged wheels are often more expensive but are more durable. At most you'll bend the rim but NOT crack it, so can be repaired...where cast wheels are cheaper to make yet will crack. For example, if you went over say a pothole in the road where you had Forged rims and you bent the wheel, in the same situation the cast would more than likely crack :). Forged are also lighter...but all this comes at a price...literally. If you want 20's I'd suggest you research and keep an eye out to pick up a bargain. IIRC L-Tunedparts.com is holding a special on a set of EXXE 18's, which are originally made by Work and are lighter than your stock 17's and are forged and cost next to nothing for what they are ;). Shipping will cost you about 700usd, so you're looking at paying about £1000-1100 for a set of wheels that are worth about £1600-£2000 :). Work wheels are not cheap by any means...not only will you get a bargain but they look kickass on the GS :). Oh and one more thing, since you'll have 20's on rubber band thick tires, you'll have more of a chance of cracking/bending the rim, therefore I'd say that's another reason to go with either 19's with a FAT tire setup (what I've got) which provides more than enough protection for the rim, and also doesn't affect ride quality much...or you can go with forged 20's with rubber band tires and be careful or go with cheap cast 20's and be VERY careful. A bent rim can be controlled and brought to a stop but a cracked rim is just dangerous. My tupence worth. interestingly enough, my trd rims weighed lighter than my lexus rims (made by OZ racing), despite being same size and width. I also think the car would've been a little "quicker" at acceleration? Not to mention braking was improved too? ;)