skeet94

I've had them for a year now, still going strong!

A slight change in colour will tell you that they're on their way out. Happened to me, one side seems just VERY slightly different colour-wise. Changed both bulbs and both are the same colour now :).

First off, you'll lose the sequential system. Second you'll definitely need a FMIC, then an uprated Radiator, new Headers, decat/racing cats, etc. You'll have to have the gearbox rebuilt, etc to handle the power and will require a higher stall Torque Convertor, also suspension will need to be upgraded to handle the extra power, and braces to keep the body flexing. If you're thinking you can just drop a pair of HKS in place of the Twins, I'm pretty much 100% certain it's not possible :).

That price is really good :). I paid £215 for both Eagle F1's and fitting on the Aristo (rear tires).

where in Uk can you drive at that speed? (And who does your tracking so you're steady?) And as for erratic road surfaces....... ← On a old abandoned (read: not in service) RAF runway and tracking was last done by Wheels In Motion in Watford (STS), previous to that Goodwin Tires in Ilford, Essex. I'm more into handling and acceleration but as Liam pointed out, you wouldn't buy a car of this sort unless you wanted a bit of fun and some luxury. Everybody has a little kid in em.

Take it to someone who has an OBD2 Reader (Mk2 I'm guessing), that will normally give you all the faults :).

You'd have to have at least some sort of Piggyback ECU for AFR as well as Boost (in some cases), timing, etc. After reading about the TOMS ECU I must say I'd rather get the standard ECU reflashed by Mine's to remove the top speed limiter and then use a piggyback to do more. That's all I can give you for now...what kind of power you want to make also affects this decision, as then you might want to look at getting the Autobox rebuilt as well as getting a uprated Torque Convertor.

It's the same with every country out there, not only America. Not having a go or anything but if you'd watch movies from any other country, they'd give you the same impression (ie: French, Indian, Spanish, etc). Although they vary in genre majority of the Sci-Fi/Spy/etc based movies are mostly based around the country the film originates from.

Hello, Sorry for the late reply...just got a bit tied up yesterday. The "judder" is still there, but less pronounced. I'd say take a look at the discs as they seem to be the main culprit :). Need to replace mine now as well. Hope that helps.

Threshold is an excellent show, just can't believe they'll be stopping it :(.

Sorry to hear that mate, and thanks for the heads up. I'd actually been in touch with them to source an Aristo glad I bought it from Tempo (Syd) instead of them. Hope all goes well and I'd definitely follow advice given above.

I'll tell you what, since I've just had my balljoints replaced, I've not taken it to anything higher than 40mph...I'll take it out tonight when I get home and let you know if I've still got the brake judder...if I do have it then I'll take a guess and say it's my front discs, since I've always suspected them. If I don't then it'll partly be due to lower front balljoints :).

Sorry to hear that mate. Hope all works out well...hope your whiplash isn't too bad either. Think there might be a conspiracy against Lexus drivers.

Syd, go for the Sport Alloys, they look absolutely gorgeous on that car.

OKAY That's my next mod on the Aristo!! Thanks for the mini-review Dangerous Brain :)

The number of times I've been under a ramp! That sucks, hope the owner of the car gets his money at least!!

Dangerous Brain: Same sort of thing I read on www.supraforums.com where it helps ALOT with higher power Supra's...but knowing someone over here's had the same sorta positive experience is making me consider it too lol. Although I do know that the TRC on the Aristo isn't AS BAD as the Supra one or the IS one...since it doesn't really cut fuel THAT badly...but it does tend to interfere in certain situations involving powerslides. I will definitely take the RLTC into consideration though...seems like it's definitely what'll be needed for higher power. Did you have the launch control fitted too in the Supra?

Hope you get well Geoff...can't believe I missed this thread :(.

Hey Syd, Just thought I'd let you know I'd have posted if I knew how it worked lol. Sorry. How is the car coming along?

OK...yesterday went to the hospital to have my Physiotherapy and on the way back I tried getting out of a road really quick...what happened? I sat there spinning away *sigh*...I think the trc does actually help in these situations, the good thing is it doesn't really give as huge of delay in response...it's almost instantaneous. Got the Sensor put in today, reset the ECU, the lights still stayed on...then took it out for a really quick drive and performing a few emergency brakes ... the lights went away themselves :D I'm a very happy chappy now :D. Dangerous Brain: The TRC is a good thing instead of not having any as I managed to find out lol...in poor weather it would definitely help with standing starts but can always turn it off...I was also looking at the RLTC...got any experience with them? How good is it? etc.

AVG Free over here...found viruses on the computer that other software ignored. It's free just do a google search for it. Also has updates available daily instead of monthly.

Dangerous Brain: The wastegate is what actually regulates boost on many turbo cars. When you upgrade to a larger diameter exhaust/downpipe & decat that boost "creep" cuts in and lets boost overshoot or allows the factory Boost Cut Limit to kick in. Controlling how long the wastegate stays closed for before opening will in turn allow boost to be increased. Also I've had to use cheap SUL from a motorway service station, and to be honest as long as you don't "floor it" hard (drive with a VERY light foot), you will be ok as you will NOT be hitting full boost whatsoever. Only do this in emergencies though when you're almost out of fuel and there's no Shell, BP or Tesco's around. Although SUL does make a HUGE difference. About the 12V Mod thanks alot for the advice. If anything I'll just go overkill on the fueling system since the 12V Mod doesn't work...might pick up a PHR Fuel Kit or Titan Fuel Kit, which includes everything. Just thinking out loud here, because I'm starting to buy parts but waiting till I've got everything to put it all in in one go...has ANYONE looked at the 3.4L Stroker Kit from Titan? Is there much of a difference between the actual shortblock depending on if it's JDM or USDM? I'm thinking of having a full 3.4L Stroked Motor from Titan brought in pretty soon (got half the pennies saved :-D), or might just pick up the Stroker Kit and have the motor built up here, but highly considering it since Titan has a reputation for building some of the more reliable and more potent engines.

I agree with Matt & Wosket. Especially when it comes to the higher performance, fully equipped with electric gadgets motors (ie: Electrics on MB/BMW etc...). Performance is crazy though.

Very Nice & Clean car you got there :).

The Aristo's got a Toyota badge on the back, and the wheel center caps are Toyota, but on the Grille there's the Lexus badge (changing it soon to Toyota). I think that says it all, reason I bought it was because of Toyota being the "parent company" and well anything that's from either Honda, Toyota or Nissan says to me reliability will definitely be there. Mostly bought it cos of how rare GS300's/GS430's are and even still the Aristo's are even rarer. Still not seen another one on the road yet. Also comfort and reliability were a top factor as well as performance and a sleeper. Not to mention the previous owner Syd is one very honest guy who's babied the car like no other, so taking all that into consideration...I'd do it all again if I was looking for a car.