ColinBarber

yes I would get the fluid replaced as it would have absorbed water which can lead to poor braking performance and also rust the brake lines.

scratch-x is fine on plastic.

I don't think the TNS200 will work, isn't that the turn by turn system rather than the full map system? Have you tried another disc first?

could be the shocks.

You can set the EDFC to have either 16 or 32 adjustments. The procedure should be in the owners manual. Most people say they cannot tell the difference between one setting and another when in 32 position mode. Chips, I'll try and find the stock spring rates, not easy information to find though. I want the CS as I don't really want it much stiffer, just suspension that actually works. I will also go with some stiffer roll-bars to help the cornering. The CS also don't use the noisy pillow mounts.

that doesn't sound good. Hopefully the burning smell was the belt rubbing against something as it started to break down, if that's the case you should just be able to get a pulleys checked and a new belt fitted.

Have you taken you vehicle to be diagnosed? Could be coil packs, plugs, CATs, O2 sensors, throttle motor etc. etc or have you ruled all these out yourself? All of these things would be a more likely cause of the problem, I've never heard of a MAP sensor failing on the IS. If you want to check the MAP sensor I recommend you obtain the correct diagnostic procedure and then check it's readings rather than just trying to clean it.

I would recommend Linksys or Netgear. I personally use a Cisco router but wouldn't recommend them to the average home user as they are much much more expensive.

On what basis are you making this statement? because it's a pressure guage which isn't really affected by dirt and is also not in the direct air flow and therefore not subject to as much dirt. The hot wire MAF sensor needs cleaning because one wire heats and the other one reads the air temperture. If dirt gets on the wires they become more insulated and therefore it goes out of calibration. Things are even worse because the hot wire, in becoming hot, tends to attract dirt which gets baked on.

Funnily enough my neighbour was just moaning about that very feature last night in his wives clk...or more precisely the fact that you are then stuck with an OEM baby seat, and that there are several once required as age range does not last long and they are expensive. He's talking of selling and getting a 4 door, says the 2 door couple was not bought with kids in mind. Also sure there is a report that safest place for babies is in the back in accidents....and to be honest I think kids are distracting enough being in the back without them being right beside you.. you may also find the OEM seat doesn't actually do that well in saftey tests. There is a big difference in the quality of seats. The whole point of a child seat is saftey, I would always select a seat based on this rather than easy of use etc. and there is still always the possibility of an airbag going off even if it is disabled.

103Nm is the Toyota/Lexus recommendation but that is for their wheel nuts which have a large flat surface. If the nuts you are using are the nasty tapered type (a lot of aftermarket wheels require this type) then you should tighten to around 120Nm

I'm also thinging the same although I would go for the CS type rather than Flex.

if the fuel computer work the same way as the GS series II then it calibrates itself based how much fuel you put in and the mileage covered. If you only ever let it get to 0, fill up and there is 10 litres left in the tank it will always read 0 when 10 litres are left. If you continue to empty the tank it will be more accurate the next time. Basically a rubbish system.

you need to make sure the caliper is free to slide in and out freely. Normally what happens is water gets past the seal and rusts the sliding pin. You should be able remove, clean up and re-grease. If you don't do this the same thing will happen again. I would recommend you check and clean up all the brakes not just the one with a problem and do it every 2 years.

you don't need to clean the MAP sensor.

just get a filter from your local Lexus dealer. Toyota dealers probably would stock it as well (not sure if the same filter is used on some Toyota models). The oil you used is fine.

did you check the brakes? could be a sticking caliper.

the engine should supply the correct amount of fuel throughout the rev range. If you are getting the correct amount of fuel then supplying more will decrease performance. If you have an induction kit you may find the fueling isn't 100% correct throughout the rev range, it may be lean at certain points and rich at others. You would need to put the vehicle on a rolling road to find out.

no not really although a couple of people only experienced the problem after they had not driven the vehicle for some time (3 weeks +). Not sure if this is related to the problem, maybe something in the pump sticks when it's not used for some time and is then damaged when operated again.

where did you purchase the vehicle from? What oil did your mate use? Get a genuine Toyota/Lexus oil filter.

also worth checking the clutch isn't on its way out.

a common problem on the RX300 is a dirty idle air control valve which causes the engine to stall. Cleaning it often fixes the problem, don't know if the same issue occurs on the LS. It may be worth posting on the US forums as there are many more LS owners there.

yes it is either the pump or the pressure sensor (probably the pump). It is also a fairly common issue on the 1998-2000 (pre face-lift) series II GS.

don't see how it can be faulty wiring if the light goes out when the engine speed is increased. I would double check the wiring connector isn't corroded and if not get the oil pressure tested.

you can purchase manuals from your dealer. online subscriptions: http://techdoc.lexus-europe.com/ or third party (US model): http://www.alldatadiy.com/