ColinBarber

I am thinking of fitting parking sensors to my GS and like the idea of not having visible sensors. Anybody have any experience of the Electro-magnetic systems? I know they only give a warning whilst moving but I don't feel there is too big a risk of hitting anything whilst I'm stationary! What speed do you need to be moving for the sensor to work? http://www.parkingsensors.co.uk/taurus.htm

Don't have a wiring diagram for the IS200 but I would be very suprised if it didn't. Possible has more than one.

Indeed, I think white spirit or nail varnish remover will do the trick

Tell your wife to stay in the kitchen in future with that brilo pad :P :D

It's the best stuff I have used for removing scratches. If it cannot remove them you will need to get them professionally removed. Even if it doesn't fully remove them it should make it look much better. Got to be worth a try. I would also recommend using their foam applicator pads.

Most people recommend Dunlop SP9000, Toyo Proxes T1-S or Bridgestone SO-3. I would go for the Toyos.

It took me two attempts to make the post in the first place

Try turning off the traction control and see if that makes a difference.

Is anybody else getting poor performance from LOC today?

Have you tried a CD len cleaning disc? Blowing into the unit probably won't achieve too much. If you want to take a trip to Woking we can swap discs to see if the problem is the unit or the disc.

If you take the non turbo Supra then the GS uses the same engine, gearbox, brakes, abs system, power steering, A/C?, fuel tank? and most of the interior switch gear and fittings. The Twin Turbo has quite a few parts uprated so that has less parts in common.

1/ Car with lights at the back sounds like the rear bulb failure light. Don't know if it's just brake light or tail light as well.

Was cooper grease used on the back of the pads and the shims? Are all the brakes doing it or just one?

The engine ECU controls the fuelling and ignition of the car based on a pre-programmed map and various sensors around the car (air temp, engine temp, exhaust sensors etc. etc). Higher RON fuel allows the ignition timing to be advanced which gives more power. Too much though and the engine will knock (pink) which will damage it. By using a knock sensor the ECU will retard the timing to the correct level. If you put in higher RON fuel the ECU will not know this and by default will only try and advance the timing infrequently. By resetting the ECU all data is lost and therefore it has to relearn the correct settings. It starts off by using very conservative settings but will increase the settings at a faster rate than normal. So after a tank full of fast driving the ECU should be giving you the maximum performance. You reset the ECU by removing its power. This can be done via its fuse, if it has one, but the definite way is to disconnect the battery. It should only need to be done for a minute but as it is difficult to tell if the ECU has been reset it is recommended that you leave it off for 5 minutes to be sure. Also you need to discharge any power being held within the electronic circuits, which may still provide the ECU which enough power to keep its memory, by trying to draw some power by turning on the lights, using the horn or pressing the brake pedal.

http://www.meguiars.co.uk/

My order of various Meguiar's products arrived today. I have a scratch on my door that is probably too deep to be removed by hand. Also have a few stone chips that have been touched up which I have levelled using T-Cut and Auto Glym cutting compound but that has left a scratchy haze around the area. Thought I would give Scratch X a go using their foam applicator. All I can say is brilliant. After two applications the deep scratch has all but gone, you wouldn't notice it unless you knew about it before. The hazing completely went after a very light single application. Hopefully I get the same results from the other products but based on Scratch X I would recommend that everybody gives these products a try.

Doesn't have to be either. If you wish to spend the extra on synthetic then you will get the best protection and performance but unless you are using the car on a track it may not be worth it? I have heard Redline transmission and diff oils are good. Can be shifting more slick. As you have the sport your diff contains a LSD. Some types of LSDs cannot be used with certain oils as they need a certain amount of friction, so I would double check that the oil you select is compatible.

Are you going to use Optimax or just Super?

Order anything exciting?

:D :D :D

Have you tried white spirit or nail varnish remover? Test it on a hidden piece first in case it marks and wash off straight away. Try white spirit first as that is less likely to do damage.

do the TTE badged ones cost more?

Looks like it's not a 2+2 only 2 seater which would reduce the length. Also they are now using V engines which make the bonnet shorter. The IS could do with a couple more cms in width, but I wouldn't think it will get 10. Hopefully it won't be based on anything else and use it's own chassis however that's not an economic solution these days, especially with a low volume model like the Supra.

suspension, maybe bushes or the brakes? When does it do it?

There was talk of Toyota using the V10 from the TF1xx F1 car. Maybe that will be in a different car. There is talk of F1 using smaller V8s rather than the present 3.0l V10 which BMW are not happy about because they want to use their F1 engine in the next M5 and M6. The Supra has always been a bigger car than the IS, the GS was it's basis last time.