johnatg

You might do better with a short 21mm socket rather than a plug socket and use a light hammer. Grease the metal of the collar first. Guide the collar in with your fingers as you knock it in. Don't try and do this with the caliper mount on the car - do it on a bench. You don't need to replace the washers for the mounting bolts - at least, I never did (although the workshop manual tells you to). I had my IS250 for 7½ years and replaced the boots a couple of times like this. The pin with the rubber bushing in the groove goes at the top. I think the other plain pin is longer and goes at the bottom

Yes you can. There's a button marked 'HUD' on the dash to the right of the steering wheel - press it and it cycles between on, off, mph and kph.

The boots have metal collars which can be tricky to install into the caliper mounting. The only way really is to use a 21mm socket to hammer them in - you just need to be careful to guide them in to keep them straight - they distort if they go even slightly crooked. And re the pins - I'm sure that Lexus didn't use different design slide pins just for fun - I don't know what their reason was but you can be sure it matters. As do the bushing collars on the top pins.

You could try swapping the wheels around to see if it makes any difference. I doubt that cleaning would have affected the balance unless you inadvertently removed a weight. When you say 'book it in' - not at a Lexus dealer, surely? Any reputable tyre fitter will rebalance your wheels for a few quid.

When I got my 2014 GS300h a couple of months ago the map update screen showed 'last map update was cancelled'. That irritated me no end so I resolved to do something about it and came across this thread. I visited the link: https://toyotamaps.online/map-updates/toyota-lexus-navigation-gen7-update I paid my $79 (£64.10) via PayPal and received a link to onedrive files. There are 8 of them and the total download size is about 14Gb. You then need to extract (one of the files is an extraction program) the files to a 64Gb Flash drive - I had a 64Gb SD card and a USB card reader but that didn't work. I contacted the vendor and he confirmed what I had already suspected - the car is fussy about the flash drives it accepts. So acquired a 64Gb San Disk Cruzer (other brands are available!) and extracted the files again. The total extracted size is just over 32Gb. You plug the flash drive in to the USB port in the cubby between the seats. Now you go to the map update screen and plug the flash drive in - this time it showed it was ready to update. You take a picture of the screen and email it to the vendor - he then sends you an activation/licence code. When you start the update the first thing is it asks you is to key in the code then it does a software update. This takes about 10 minutes, then you have to stop the car and restart. Now it's a bit worrying - the screen goes black for quite a few seconds but then it comes back and tells you the map update is ready to start and will take approx 98 minutes. (So you'd better be driving somewhere, even aimlessly, if you don't want the car to be idling on your drive for a couple of hours!) At last it tells you the update completed successfully. The map is updated to April 2019 and it was issued in October 2019, so now is as up-to-date as possible. Very happy! I know the navigation is nowhere near as good as you get for free on your phone but now my car is working properly for a reasonable cost. I suspect this isn't quite kosher but hey! it works, it's a reasonable cost and Lexus should offer this service (they used to, but have discontinued it) rather than tell you to go and be ripped off by a dealer!

See this thread (especially the last post) - not sure how to reconcile it with my diagram but it might help! https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/118066-is220d-does-not-start-no-fuel-pressure-at-rail/

If you are looking for a wheel refurb in Manchester area I can recommend Prestige Wheels in Stockport. Whatever you do get them powder coated rather than just painted, which a lot of so-called refurb places do. But a wheel refurb if you just have a slow deflation is a bit drastic, unless your wheels really are in a state. A decent tyre fitter should be able to diagnose what's wrong and cure the problem.

Here's a pic of the fuel system: Is your pic actually the Pressure Discharge Valve?

Leather protection is indeed a good idea but there are plenty of leather protection / sealant Scotchgard type products available in a can for a tenner or so. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

Apparently all Lexus services on hybrid cars include a free hybrid drive check. But you can get the Hybrid check (and the hybrid battery warranty extension) separately - cost £59 I think.

You don't say how much they're charging - almost certainly a lot! You can buy the kit eg here: for £30 or probably less if you search a bit. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GARDX-CAR-PAINT-INTERIOR-PROTECTION-KIT-GX-01-GDU-11-IN-CASE/133205002437?hash=item1f03a308c5:g:fOcAAOSw3sZc8V1x So - is it worth the difference to have some junior apprentice apply it, or diy? I thought Lexus dealers generally offer Gen3 Glasscoat at some enormous cost (in excess of £500). I rather think my car was treated with that when new and I must say it seems very effective and still has great gloss and rain resistance after 5 years. But most of these paint sealants only last a few months at full effectiveness. A good polish followed by wax every three months is really all you need. Or most local mobile valeters offer a paint sealant service - you could get some quotes. I think you could save a lot. But I guess you're paying in the high twenties for the car, so maybe pennies (or even pounds) aren't too important!🙂

Worth getting a quote from someone like this?: https://www.custommaderads.co.uk/ There are plenty of companies out there making rads - someone has gotta be cheaper than Lexus!

PS - Maybe that means that as long as you have a hybrid health check every 10K miles (if you do more than that per annum) you can keep the warranty going for 15 years?

See here: https://www.lexus.co.uk/owners/servicing-and-maintenance/hybrid-health-check/ I was wrong about the 'irrespective of mileage' - there a panel on the right if you scroll down on the web site which says: Quote> Free warranty extension With each Hybrid Health Check, you receive an extra 1 year or 10,000 mile (whichever comes sooner) hybrid battery warranty extension, until your vehicle is 15 years old. Terms and conditions apply. <End quote

Surely, if you had the annual hybrid system check by Lexus the hybrid battery warranty extends to 15 years, irrespective of mileage?

I have recently swapped my IS250 for a GS300h (Premier). The GS feels like a substantially bigger car and it's quieter and significantly more luxurious. If you can't get comfortable in a GS I doubt you could be comfortable in anything. The seat has 18-way adjustment (premier spec - lesser versions have less adjustment) - main problem is trying the infinite combinations! It definitely has more 'driver space' than the IS. I haven't driven an IS300h but I imagine its performance is pretty similar to the IS250, and the GS300h is much the same - not exactly a rocket but perfectly adequate for UK roads. I think the only place you would feel it lacking is if you are used to German autobahns at more than 200kph - GS300h max speed is about 119mph. Acceleration is quoted as somewhat slower than the IS250 - 9.2 secs to 100kph rather than 8.5 - but it doesn't feel like it - if anything it feels at least as quick. I did worry that I would find a 2.5 litre four a bit of a step down from the wonderful V6 in the IS250 but really it's almost as smooth and anyway, you're used to the 4 in the IS300h! The GS is definitely a more relaxing drive - maybe it just lulls you into a feeling of contentment with the world! My wife comments that the GS is a lot more luxurious than the IS - she was horrified at my spending the dosh but she's happy now! I plan to keep it for a long time!

The filter is located at the front of the engine, slightly to the right (offside in UK). There should be a little hatch underneath it held by three screws - you shouldn't need to remove the whole undertray - the drain plug should be aft of the undertray. (This info is based on my previous IS250 which uses the 2.5 litre version of the GS450h engine) Note that it is very likely that you will need the special cup wrench to undo the filter cover - these are often done up too tightly (torque setting is 18ft lbs). Don't risk damaging the filter cover by using other means. You can get the cup wrench from eBay - various brands - I have a Laser one. (Cup wrench for Toyota V6 engine)

I just hold the car stationary with my left foot on the brake pedal then release it as I accelerate away. It is the only time I use my left foot on the brake pedal!

I think the Mann one from ECP will be a plain filter, not activated charcoal. It would be fine of course but on balance, if you want to keep the performance spec of the Premier grade climate system with negative ions etc I'd use a charcoal one. Here you go: https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/362693374910?ul_noapp=true

Oh - it looks as if GS450h ones are different from GS300h - are they really? Anyway - you might need one like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fits-Lexus-GS-GS-450h-UFI-Activated-Carbon-Cabin-Pollen-Interior-Air-Filter/362693374910?hash=item547235b3be:g:TNMAAOSwQtxdHlI~

I bought this recently:- £14.63 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fits-Lexus-GS-300h-Genuine-Hella-Hengst-Activated-Carbon-Cabin-Filter/303265283782?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Fits perfectly - no problems - note that the arrows show airflow direction, which is top to bottom, not 'this way up' as on originals. You might have a word with the dealer in Sheffield - or were you not charged for a filter? Or did they just not look at it? I think it should be done on a major service but not a minor. But change it at least once a year anyway.

I think you would be within the law if you drive to an appointment at a specialist repairer and he then takes the car in to an appointment at an MoT place. The appointment bit is crucial. You could check with your insurer and the police, but of course if they say no. you're stuffed.

You can legally drive the car home or to a repair garage even with a failed MoT as long as it's not a 'dangerous' fault. It might be best to get MoTs done at a very local garage which will turn a blind eye to your driving of with a 'dangerous' fault - I do, and my local didn't worry when I drove home with 'too low' rear brake pads - that's a 'dangerous' fault, even though they were within Lexus spec (> 1.0mm - MoT requires >1.5mm) (That was on my IS250) Actually I don't think they can stop you, but I guess your insurance company would not be too happy, shall we say, if an incident were to occur. Anyway, I think EML illuminated isn't 'dangerous'.

See drawings below. Front: To remove the caliper from the bracket you only need to remove the small bolt at the very end of the slider. The hexagon on the slide pin itself is to hold the slide pin whilst you undo the small bolt. Take care with the rubber dust boots - if yours are original they will be in a fragile state. They can tear easily if you turn a bolt or pin to which they are stuck - make sure they are free before you turn anything - they are just push fits into grooves. If you need to replace boots you can get them from various sources - Brakes International in Rochdale (mail order or in person) is good. The front ones are a bit of a pain to replace as you need to remove the caliper completely from the car and hold it in a vice whilst you hammer in (with a socket over the rubber part) the metal collar into the caliper. The slide pins themselves just pull out of their holes - but they might need a spanner on the hexagons if they are stuck. Clean and grease the slide pins and reassemble. Rear: Make a note of how the springs on the pad retaining pins are arranged. Remove the pins and the pads. Remove the top slide pin. Now the caliper should rotate and push off the other pin which fits into a blind hole. This is the one which causes most trouble - it can be hard to rotate the caliper and even harder to push it off if it's seized. Again take care with the rubber boots. Clean and grease the slide pins and reassemble..

Hmm... I'm afraid that doesn't sound as if they have cleaned and greased the sliders/pins. You need to find a garage familiar with Lexus brakes. I can send a drawing of how the sliders are accessed if it would help your negotiations. It may not be desperately urgent just now but don't leave them too long. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk