Cracksta

wowsa, 6k for that would've been a steal! Its still reasonable for 9k.

Not that I am promoting these sort of behaviour but has all the assists been turned off? i.e. traction control / stability control off? I dont have an IS200 but on the IS250 the assists are all on as default.

That autotrader link in your first post, is that the original price or is it before the 3k hike?

Looking forward to this! Been itching to do some mods but theres not much to do without making it look stupid.

Dealers if you are willing to hire your bum out, if not, I would try the breakers, else I would use this opportunity and go to an exhaust fabricator and have one made.

Fully agree with too much fraudsters about hence why there are legit companies set out to catch these scums. In Russia for example, its almost the norm to have a dash cam and I was too looking at a good one that works. Interested to see which dam cams everyone has

So the IS250 has 3 modes (theres a button to push near the dash). Now i've had the car in ECT power mode for a few weeks and there is 1 very slight annoyance with ECT mode. At a standstill from the lights, when i pull away, the car always seems to want to pull away in a rush and i can feel it going into 2nd gear, though alot smoother than a manual car but not quite silky smooth. With it ECT off (i was playing with the modes in traffic), the gas pedal sensitivity seems to have toned down alot so was able to pull away very smoothly and didnt feel it change into 2nd (in ECT mode, it lurches forward then as soon as it changes into 2nd, it feels like you've put your foot down a little bit more hence the 2nd slight lurch forward). In Snow mode, the pedal seems to have further sensitize with and the gear stays in 2nd at standstill (though really its in 1st but shifts to 2nd very quickly). To conclude, I'm leaving the power mode off for normal relaxing drive and ECT mode when i want better throttle response, which pretty much sums up ECT mode, better throttle response.

Xenon (a gas) is usually HID and LED is LED. There is no such thing as Xenon LED (alot of places uses the word Xenon to make people think this is a bright light). In regards to your question (assuming this is headlights), you can install any 12v DC lights to your car and it will work with your wiring loom, the question is will it work effectively and will it fit the housing. I.e. aftermarket HIDs will work but the beam pattern maybe be crap and blind on-coming traffic, overheat and melt your headlight, poor quality bulbs/kit etc. LED headlights are simple not bright enough to light up the road, LED side lights are fine.

Ah yes, i was referring to grooved/drilled discs! Teaches me to not posted before having a coffee.

I think mine are OEMs but my one is a 2010 F sport. I know some aftermarket kits are brighter with a wider spread but this can cause dazzling to the opposite road users. Be interesting to see the changes.

I'm surprised at 2 things: 1. Some say the OEM brakes are not great and aftermarket ones are better. I have the 2010 IS250 F Sport and the braking power (OEM) is way better than my CTR with aftermarket pads (stoptech). Maybe the brakes were uprated/changed on mine with the changes in 2010? 2. The brake discs on some IS250 were drilled/vents? I'm sure my discs are solid all round.

Snow tyres?? I think you'll only slide if you are doing silly speeds and yanking the steering wheel extremely to one side. Wheel alignment also plays an important part, my brothers celica with bad front tyres understeers on mild turns, my old CTR corners like rails.

Spot on! I'd also do exactly what Jamesf1 said above.

Welcome, please do check the forum for common issues for the IS220d otherwise enjoy your new ownership!

Digging up an old post but is the OEM HID not good enough?? I've messed about with HID aftermarket kits alot in my previous cars hence why i bought a car that has them as standard. I get the blue tint when i drive pass or is the aftermarket bulbs bright? My HID are white with no yellow hue.

Anyone else use the california car scents cherry? Maybe its a bit kiddish smell but always gets compliments.

johnatg, on 09 Nov 2015 - 14:24, said: James - your quotes might imply that D is somehow superior to S. S-mode is especially valuable if say you're following someone at 50 or so on a road with limited overtaking opportunities. The AI-shift function would probably want the car to be in 6 but by using S you can hold it on 3 or 4 so that when the opportunity comes up you can start accelerating instantly without waiting what seems like an interminable time for the box to sort itself out when you floor the throttle. D and S are for 2 different functions IMO, in terms of superior in the 0-60, I would prefer using D as i dont need to guess when to shift as it will do it at the max rpm and if you use S, it will not shift when you want it to until you get to the end of the rev range. To prove this, select S at gear 1, floor it and shift to 2nd when the rpm hits 5k rpm, it will not shift and will wait just before the redline and then will shift to 2nd. Otherwise, ease off the gas and it will then shift into 2nd. For when using S, you are right about the IS250 limits the highest gear to be in hence why i think the S stands for selector. Another good way of using S if say you are on a steep hill, you want to be in the higher rev range, you can limit the gears from changing otherwise it will change to say gears 3-4 and might be sluggish going up. And 'When you want to press on, the changes become quicker and crisper' just means 'than they normally are in D' It doesn't necessarily imply any advantage (or disadvantage) over S. The only slight advantage i guess would be you dont need to change the gears on a straight and will get consistent results, if in paddle shift it may not shift like you want it too.

The paddle shifts is not a true gear changer, what I mean by that is, it doesn't change gears the moment you press it, rather it waits for a certain point to auto change. i.e. if you floor it on 1st then say you paddle shift up at 4-5k rpm, it waits till it almost red lines then shifts up. Think of it more like a max gear limit selector. Regards to PWR mode, i read that this just keeps the revs longer rather than have 'more power'. There is no sports mode on the IS250 (there is a PWR mode), i think the gear selector area with 'S' probably just means shift/selector. As for the achieving the best 0-60, leave it on D (PWR mode if you wish), left foot on brake with a little gas then let go of brakes and gas foot to the floor! I also read up the 0-60 times on the Lexus are mostly wrong, i.e. the times are actually faster than quoted by due to some emissions/rules, its made to look modest. PS: Snow modes just shifts the gears aloot earlier so you dont have the power floor it as such

Have you tried give the sensors a clean then re-test?

The key fob battery when its low, the car will tell you (though dont rely on it!). Its cheap to get the battery from ebay, had my service done recently and Lexus charged me £8 for the battery when i got it for under £2 on ebay. I had club discount and they threw in a free pollen filter

Firstly i would've said dodgy wiring as in some may have corroded/water got in etc but the last part of your message said the car now doesn't start. Do have a multimeter? if so thats quick way to check what volts the battery currently has, i think 12.4 and up is good, anything below is not so good so long as its not lower than 11.5 (i think), when the car is running it should about 14.X You can try charge up the battery overnight and see if the car starts but sounds like its not going to recover so best a new battery. On my old car the battery died suddenly and even charging overnight the car wouldn't start (it would turn over tho but this flooded the spark plugs!).

That does sound appalling especially from Lexus but they seem to operate separately even though they are the same company. Just my imo on the 2 points above: When driving you can actually pull the gearstick out of gear without even pressing the clutch! I think this is normal? do you mean say your cruising along in 4th, you can push the stick forward and it will go into neutral without stepping on clutch? If so, I think all manual gearbox cars do that. When car is in 1st gear you can move off without pressing the accelerator, just pull your foot off the clutch! Here most if not all cars can pull away on 1st without accelerator (manual cars), it depends on your idle rev, say you start the car up first thing in the morning, it will do a fast idle around 1.5-2.5k rpm, you can pull away with just clutch alone. Or if you idle is set too high (usually its less than 1k rpm) you can still pull away but slowly of course.

Thanks! Now i have a problem deciding which color for a white IS250. 1st world problems

Been looking for wind deflectors for a while and gave up as the OEM looks great but expensive. Interested to see what these look like, can someone post some pics? I dont want the stick on ones so the channeled ones are very tempting! Which one do you pick to order for an IS250, is it the 'US-version' IS250?

Phwoar! Thought you was going to keep the ISF a bit longer but i completely understand that its difficult find the car you want in that color combo/spec etc. Looking forward to more pics when you get her!