Tyre Tread

Had my car 3 years. Tidy 2007 with 50K when I bought it and now over 100K - all 3 MOTs at my usual independent give misting on one of the rear shocks as an advisory. Still drives well and no issues so I've left it alone Just to pace this in perspective I also have a 20 year old TVR and a 50 year old Rover V8 and neither of them have seen a garage(other than for MOT and tyres) for decades. Not because they are neglected but because I do all my own spannering. 🙂 A bit of misting just stops them seizing up or going rusty LOL

Man, you need to chill and stop worrying. I got several warning lights which I was advised was failing battery. As it was 12 years old I changed it and had same issues so after further investigation found it was one of the upstrearm O2 sensors so changed both just to be safe.

Just remember that you're now living with Japanese reliability and not German ban counter led money making reliability hype. I've owned 30 or so cars in my life from Austin Allegros to Jag XF's, Rover P5b and TVR Chimaera plus Audi A4, Skoda Superb estate and Honda Accord and the Japanese cars were always the most reliable. Loving my IS250 after 3 years and 45K miles (over 40K in the first 2 years and less than 3 in the last 12 months) I've had to replace one O2 sensor, headlight bulbs, water pump and battery (but in fairness it was the original battery and 12 months old and most annoyingly it didn't need replacing - It was the O2 sensor at fault)

Generally its accepted wisdom that water pumps re good for around 60k miles so nowhere near where you should be concerned. It's normal to have a high idle for the first 30 secs or so and mine also ticks slightly so don't think you have anything to worry about. Glad to hear the headlight issue is sorted now it's time just to enjoy the car and stop worrying

That's appallling. Its not like its difficult or expensive to change either. If you've had the car serviced at a garage and been charged for that filter I'd be having a chat with them around whether they think its acceptable. If you've had the car a while and serviced by same garage, check back to see how many pollen filters you've been charged for. This is one of the reasons I do all of the work on my cars myself.

As already stated it will almost certainly be the bulb. If in doubt swap the bulbs over and if the bad bulb is still bad after swapping and the good bulb remains good, you know its the bulbs.

Rent a Ramp in Warrington. £12.50 for first hour and £7.50 per hour therafter sounds mega cheap to me, especially if you have the knowledge and confidence to DIY the job. https://www.ufixautos.co.uk/services.html Also, Lexus Birmingham sell lots of stuff online and even if you can't find what you want on Ebay give them a ring as they tend to do deals on stuff much cheaper than your local dealer.

Had to dig out the invoice: From Powerbulbs.com Looks like they've come down in price and with a multibuy discount a pair is £65.98 inc delivery. I paid £93.98 in Oct 2018 😞 https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/osram-xenarc-d4s-mercury-free-single-xenon-hid

I had exactly the same issue about a year ago and di exactly what you did, swapped the bulbs over to check if it was the bulb or the ballast resistor that was fault and I even got the same result. The faulty bulb worked for a short time then died. After some research I bought Osram bulbs as when they arrive they have a code you can put in on their website to check they are genuine. I seem to recall I paid about £100 for the pair.

Come on Lexusisfan. we need an update

If your dash doesn't creak before they do this job make sure you tell them that so if you get it back creaking you can get them to remedy. If it already creaks/squeaks get them to change the clips that hold the dashboard in with the newer thicker ones. They should know all about this. They should put £25 worth of fuel in as well by way of compensation.

I've used Sainbury's petrol in mine since I bought it 3 years ago and no issues. The problem is all the pottering about. Save your money on fancy fuels and injector cleaners and just give it a good old Italian tune up.

I'll just leave this here. It's done better but the first pic I could find...

As long as the correct Iridium plugs were used I'd agree. If not then they would need changing sooner. I changed mine at 95K and they looked like new. Replaced with Iridium so should be good for another 90+K miles

I've also Sorn'd the IS250 and have thought about Laid up cover but not sure if I will just yet. I actually re-taxed the IS in March and then didn't use it at all. Mind you my mileage has been minimal since I changed jobs last year and I sent from doing a 22K a year commute to working from home so the full tank of petrol I put in on 29th December is still only half empty! Insurance companies will be making huge savings while most cars are off the road and even commercial mileages will be vastly reduced.

I assumed his was the SE-L as it had the reversing camera, Sat Nav and ML stereo but i suspect, thinking about it, they may be a part of an upgrade package.

Have you discovered that the keyless entry is operated by touching the inside of the pull handle handle and 1/2 second later the doors unlock and then pull the handle? If you try and pull the handle immediately you end up having to pull a second time like you did i the video. Also, have you discovered the speedo can be programmed to change the backlight colour at different speeds? Does yours have the rear electrically operated blind?

I found an online how to video but I can't find the link now. I'd suggest getting the parts from Lexus Birmingham including the inlet manifold rubber gaskets. It's not difficult if you're methodical and take your time.

I'm in North Cardiff. Pop it down and I'll do it in front of you for half of that or better still show you how to do it yourself and supply jacks and stands if you pay for lunch at the Caerphilly Mountain cafe when we test drive it afterwards. I have a set of caliper wind back tools already, and red brake grease and wet and dry papaer toclean up the sliders if needed and ... well you get the picture.

Only think I would disagree on is the plugs - Don't bother up to 100K miles. Like I said, i changed mine at 60K and they were still perfectly serviceable and were the originals.

Bought mine, a 2007 SE-L auto 2 years ago at 59K miles and its been excellent value. Put 4 tyres on it when i bought it as the old ones were quite worn winters £246.00 Rear brake pads at 67K miles £48.00 Waterpump at £69K miles £115.20 (parts& fluid only - fitted myself) Headlamp bulbs at 86K miles £93.98 I did the major service at 90K miles £164.75 for all parts inc iridium plugs and gaskets 4 tyres (Dunlop Bluresponse) Costco at 94K miles £223.58 fitted Battery replaced (Yuasa) at 96K miles £75.19 O2 sensors replaced at 97K miles £266.54 I've done all servicing myseld including interi oil changes every 5K miles and filer at 10K. Now at 102K miles and I've gone from doing 20K a year commute to doing just a few hundred a month in the last six months. Average fuel consumption calculated on an app brim to brim over 2 years and 43K miles is 36.81mpg. Bering in mind mostly done on Motorway on cruise at 75mph indicated. Cost per mile (excl purchase cost/depreciation) has been 21p per mile. The Exhaust is a major concern as an original will set you back a substantial sum (Circa £1.5K I beieve) but if I had that issue I think I'd have one made. I've owned everything from a Honda Jazz, Nissan Primera, Skoda Supern to a Jag XFS and its fair to say that the best all rounder has been the Lexus. The dashboard rattle did annoy me when I bought it but I had the dash clips changed for the upgraded versions when it went in for the airbag recall and that cured it. It's a lovely calm, comfortable, quiet and relaxing place to be and has enough power that you never feel let down. Just make sure you find a good one, It took me 6 months to find mine and I know I paid top money for it but it has been worth it. It is a shame it just doesn't get used at the moment since I started working from home and reaching the point where I think I may be better to sell it

What I particularly didn't like was the fact that the ACC made you leave a large gap which other cars would move into causing the car I was driving to brake to open a gap which then another car would pull into etc etc. It was just too sensitive and too urgent in its braking.

Thanks Bob and Texas for clarifying. Having experienced adaptive cruise control in a friend's Volvo, I'd pay NOT to have it.

I ran mine on the originals to 90K and seemed fine. After changing them there was no discernible difference in smoothness or performance.

ACC? Automatic Climate Control?