Beamish

I removed the filters on mine recently at 50k miles and gave them a quick clean just for piece of mind. I can't see that you would actually need to fit new ones as they are a simple gauze filter and can be easily cleaned. You do need to replace the four crush washers for the banjo bolts however to ensure that there is no leakage on refitting. Access on one side is fairly tight but doable. Hope this helps. Dec.

When it cranks do the revs register on the rev counter? If there is no movement on the rev counter I would be inclined to suspect the crank sensor.

Yes, only available as part of the complete trim piece.

Would there not be a switch on the clutch pedal that may be faulty?

As John says that is a very steep price for the kit. Your car should have the jack already in the boot to gether with a wheelnut spanner. The secondhand IS220/IS250 spacesaver spare should have you sorted. Dec.

Hi Paul, In the ISC the sensor is located just to the left of the traction control/gearbox settings switches at the left of the steering column. You can see the horizontal grill in the dash panel. I imagine it should not be too difficult to access from below. The original part number for my car, which is a July 2009 registered IS250C, is 88625-47021 and should not be very expensive from Lexus but perhaps it would be worth your while checking the electrical connection to the sensor before going down the replacement route. Dec.

Hi Martin, Did the dealer confirm that the failure is in the in-tank electric fuel pump? Perhaps the failure is with the engine driven high pressure injection pump ( 23100-39617 for my car ) which would indeed be very unusual. I imagine that this pump would be a multiple of the cost of the electric pump and would possibly explain the very high cost of replacement though the job of fitting a new pump should not be too involved. If this turns out to be the situation it may well be worth your while sourcing a used pump and having it fitted by a trusted independent. Dec.

Megazip ( https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya/toyota/computer-navigation-8684148060?q=86841-48060 ) come back with that part number only fitting the Rx350 and Rx400 from 2005/2006 onwards. Dec.

Apologies Scott, the original illustrations which I attached seem to have gone AWOL. Looking at your photos above your main problem is that the main guide pins have been incorrectly fitted from the inside out and as a consequence the pin retaining spring is fitted to the inner brake pad when it should be fitted to the static outer pad. Hope you can make some sense of this. Dec.

Hi Gary, You can get TPMS "service kits" from either Lexus or E-bay. These contain a new valve core, stem nut and fitting seal. I have just replaced mine as I had the TPMS sensors out to renew the batteries but the original valves and seals were still perfectly OK. Be aware that the valve stem nuts must only be tightened to 4Nm. so be carefull not to overtighten. I got my service kits from Rockauto for under £1 each set where Lexus are five or six times more expensive. I have to take issue with Phil's comment above that the TPMS system does not measure the air pressure in each individual wheel but rather the change in wheel speed caused by tyre deflation as measured by the ABS/wheel speed sensors. The system in the 2009 IS250C (the IS250 does not have this feature) measures the pressure individually at each TPMS sensor and transmits this info to the ECU. Unfortunately the system only tells the driver that one of the wheels has a loss of pressure but does not identify which wheel. All wheels need to be checked for correct pressure to find the culprit. Dec.

Hi Max, This may be of interest to you. Read to the end. Dec.

Hi Scott, This should help. Main pins are fitted from the outside in. INSTALL REAR DISC BRAKE PAD (a) Insert the 2 rear disc brake pads to the rear disc brake cylinder assembly. (b) Install the pad guide pin (upper) to the rear disc brake cylinder assembly. (c) Insert the end of the anti-squeal spring to the inner rear disc brake pad. (d) Holding the anti-squeal spring, install the pad guide pin (lower) to the rear disc brake cylinder assembly. (e) Engage the pin hold clip to the holes of both pad guide pins, and insert the pin hold clip to the rear disc brake pad as shown in the illustration. NOTICE: Make sure that the claw of the pin hold clip is engaged to the rear disc brake pad hole. (f) Insert the end of the anti-squeal spring to the outer rear disc brake pad hole.

Funnily enough Steve while my car came with the compressor and tyre goo it did also have the jack and the tool kit contained the wheel nut spanner. I can only assume that you are advised to raise the punctured wheel off the ground while you apply the sealent. I feel much happier knowing that I now have a spare wheel should the worst occur. Dec.

Hi Gary, Been there, done that. On mine it was primarily confined to the extra crossmembers at the rear that are fitted to the ISC to add extra rigidity. I removed these, removed the surface rust and refinished them with multiple coats of zinc primer, black underbody paint and clear lacquer. The rust was more unsightly than structural. It can also affect the plates from which the rubber fixings for the two rearmost exhaust boxes hang. So far I have not found anything that causes me any serious concern rustwise. Dec.

Yes you can fit a space saver but the plastic tray and it's cover will have to be removed. I used the spare space saver from an IS250 saloon and made up a new cover for the wheel well out of 6mm MDF. I finished it off with a new Lexus boot carpet mat which Lexus offered specifically for the ISC. I sourced mine from Ebay for about £60 if memory serves me right. Hope this helps. Dec.

Well known issue. Have a read here: These are great cars - enjoy. Dec.

Yes the level is checked with the engine idling in Park. The lever should be moved through all the gear settings prior to putting it in Park and checking the level. The fluid temperature should be within the range 46 to 56 degrees Centigrade. Wait untill the fluid flows to a trickle to refit the plug using a new crush washer. Dec.

Well done Richard. It just goes to show that there is incredible value out there if you are prepared to get stuck in. Enjoy.

Having recently completed a transmission fluid and filter change on my IS250C perhaps I can share my experience. When doing a transmission fluid drain I always like to leave the car standing for 24 hours or so to enable the fluid to drain down into the transmission pan. After first draining and then removing the pan, followed by the filter removal, I managed to get roughly 3.2 litres of fluid out of the transmission. I followed this with two further drain only sequences, again leaving the car stand for a day or so between drains, and managed in total to get 7 litres of new fluid into the trans. I sourced the filter, gasket and crush washers - all original Toyota items - through MegaZip ( https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-avtomobilej/toyota/lexus-is-42401/gse20-57089/gse20r-aktlhw-9261920 ). I used the Toyota WS fluid from my local dealer. My car is only at 50K miles but is 11years old so I figured it was due. Hope this may be helpfull. Dec.

Hi Chris, I have just checked on the rear of a ML headunit removed from my 2006 SE-L and yes the ariel connection socket will take the standard ariel fitting - i double checked by fitting an old aerial which I had lying around. Before going down this route you might check that the aerial cable from the rear is correctly connected. There appears to be a junction point in or around the gear lever area which would be worth checking. Additionally, there is an aerial amplifier fitted at the screen which may have gone on the blink. ANTENNA LEXUS LEXUS IS250/350/2##D[ALE20,GSE2#] (EUROPE) Part code Title information 86101 CORD SUB-ASSY, ANTENNA 86101J CORD SUB-ASSY, ANTENNA, NO.2 86300B ANTENNA ASSY, AMPLIFIER, NO.1 90119-06915 ** Std Part 90179-06274 NUT (FOR TRANSMISSION CONTROL CABLE) OEM catalogs Hope this helps. Dec.

Hi Grant, Try this link: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/search.php?searchid=22530319 You might find something there. Dec.

Hi Paul. Sorry to hear about your problem. There is a procedure detailed in the "When things go wrong" section of the owners manual showing how to manually raise the roof though it does look like a very involved two man process. There are about eight fuses relating to the roof operation contained in the fuse box in the boot. Again details are in the owners manual. Likewise, there is instructions as to how you can use the emergency key to gain access to the boot - again in section 5 of the manual. The key hole is inside the car under a cover between the rear headrests. I'm assuming that you have tried the boot release switch beside the fuel cover release. The OBD connector is directly underneath the steering wheel but a foot or so towards the bulkhead. Best of luck. Dec.

Hi Shaun. Sorry to hear about your roof issue. Two things spring to mind. Might there be an issue with either battery power or did you have the engine running when you encountered the problem. The second thing you might check is the possibility of some item falling down into the roof mechanism on either side of the trunk and becoming entangled. The fact that you can hear something clicking in the boot when you try to lower the roof indicates to me that the roof computer is doing it's job in trying to get the process moving but that either lack of voltage or something physically jammed is preventing this from happening. Dec.

Hi James, Welcome to the LOC. From your audio it doesn't sound like a wheel bearing to me. I would be inclined to revisit the last job you did on the brakes and make doubly sure that everything has been tightened properly - caliper bolts, wheel nuts etc. It has to be related as the noise only appeared afterwards. Best of luck, Dec.

Hi James, From your description I would expect that the battery has gone flat. If you have no way to check the battery voltage or access to a battery charger you could just try leaving it for an hour or so with eyerything switched off and then give it another try. Dec.