Herbie

I do believe you're right Eddy, well done, I missed that.

It looks like you may have to remove the seat to get at the connectors but it's difficult to say for certain. The workshop manual is available to download from a previous topic here:

Have you definitely pulled the correct fuse? Top row, fourth from left according to this?

Glad you got it sorted I may be wrong but I thought Winzip only offers a 30-day trial and then if you want to continue using it you have to pay. If that's the case then I can highly recommend 7-zip, which is completely free and available from https://www.7-zip.org/

Although I haven't got a CT I just downloaded and tried this now and it works perfectly as you'll see from the screenshot below. I've included a pdf file with instructions which, although not specifically intended for the CT manual, may help you. Tried it in Internet Explorer, Edge, Chrome and Firefox - the only one that doesn't work is Firefox. READ ME FIRST.pdf

Just don't have children!

Thanks for that info Phil, it just looked a logical way through but obviously not that easy. Adam, no worries mate. I'll often do a 'dry run' first to make sure things fit and work then tidy it all up after. It's only that apparent sharp edges and possible high-resistance joints make me nervous 😉 I have to say though, I'm very impressed with the mirror itself, it seems to work really well.

Good job Adam but there's just a couple of things that maybe could be improved. First of all, I must say that I may have completely the wrong end of the stick. There's no single photo that shows everything so I may be making wrong assumptions and if I am, then I'm sorry. The first thing that really attracted my attention is that square hole that you've pushed the cable through seems to have some very rough edges that may well damage the cable. At the very least you need some grommet strip around those edges (eBay, Amazon or electrical suppliers local to you): I'm assuming that you've mounted the camera somewhere near the licence plate and that the licence plate is on the boot lid? If that's correct then it looks like it may have been possible to route the cable in the conduit and braided sleeve arrowed below (or if not in the braided sleeve, maybe taped to the outside) which I'm assuming (again) routes through the circular grommet next to the sharp-edged hole that you've used. Again, I'm only guessing/assuming here because there is no photo that shows both ends of the cable run. And finally: Please tell me that you haven't just poked that copper wire into the top of the plug? If the connection isn't tight it will cause a high-resistance joint which could be a fire risk, or at the very least it'll just work loose and drop out within a week. You need to cut along the sleeving (in fact, it doesn't look very long so I'd cut the whole sleeve off to give you a decent length of wire to work with) and then cut the individual wire you want about half-way along its length, put some heatshrink sleeving on, solder the three ends together and then shrink the sleeving to close the joint - or you could use crimped terminals instead of soldering. Once the joint is done and closed, either get a piece of the ribbed conduit and use that to replace the sleeve that you cut off earlier, or wrap the whole length with harness tape, up to and including where it meets the ribbed conduit.

You really need a multimeter to check properly. Cheap ones can be had for under a tenner but even very good ones can be as little as £30. This is the one that I have but there's a couple at even less than a fiver if you don't want to spend much. Linky to multimeters at Amazon You need to check standing battery voltage against the chart below and when the engine is running and the alternator spinning you should get about 14.4 - 14.7V. If you don't want to buy a multimeter, start the engine and switch on high-load things such as headlight high beams, heated rear screen, seat heaters etc. You may find that the headlights look dull but if they brighten up as you rev the engine then the alternator is working, but without a meter you won't know how well it's working.

Now that is a beautiful car! I hope you're not someone who only does about 3k miles a year, but rather a person who will use it often and enjoy it to the full, because that is quite spectacular.

I think this fusebox is behind the glove compartment but not totally sure, but it's the fourth fuse from the left, bottom row:

Yes, this is a known problem with cameras that use suction cup mounts. I don't think anything can be done about it other than changing the camera for one that doesn't use a suction mount or maybe an adhesive mount is available for your particular model of camera? Those 3M adhesive pads really do stick well and as I mentioned earlier, you literally have to 'saw' them off the screen with dental floss or something similar.

They are indeed, which is why I would never buy anything like this from Lexus

Have a look at this one

It's a Viofo A119S and it's great. It looks like the price has gone up slightly since I got mine (£103.73 instead of £98.57) but this kit has everything you'll need apart from maybe a piggy-back fuse connector. Alternatively, there's a dual front and rear cam set made by Aukey with very similar cameras. The Youtube video below shows a review of the Aukey set and the guy likes it so much that this is what he uses in his own car - and he's reviewed about 50 dash cams as well as other tech, so I trust him to know what he's on about. I guarantee you won't be disappointed with either the Viofo or the Aukey.

I'm not sure any of that really makes a difference Lee. It may do to us as the drivers, trying to get a better ride or a few more mpg or whatever, but if you're involved in an accident the insurance company will take into account what's written in black and white because that's what the design engineers came up with as the best for the product. I personally know someone who had altered the pressures for whatever reason and then hit a tree in an accident. No other vehicles or people involved, just himself, but the insurance company (or traffic cops, can't remember which) found the discrepancy during the investigations and he either got a reduced payout or none at all. It was about 15 years ago now and I really can't remember but it's always stuck with me that if you mess with pressures there may be unintended consequences, as well as whatever result you're trying to achieve.

One tyre fitter as opposed to three printed sources of information? I think you already know the answer.

Have a look at the pdf file in the topic below. I've got the Advance variant and it's fantastic. I love it so much that I'd sleep in it if I could I purposely stayed away from the Premier models as they have air suspension and cost an absolute fortune if anything goes wrong with it. And to be honest, I really don't think that air offers any great improvement over coil suspension, certainly not enough to justify the extra complexity and cost of fixing it if needed.

Assuming that the DC/DC converter is working alright and you do get about 14.4 - 14.7V when the car is in the READY state, you'll then have to start looking for the source of the parasitic drain. The car needs to be in 'sleep mode' for any chance of tracing the fault. This means that you may need to wait for a couple of hours after switching off the ignition and removing the key (and keep the key out of wireless range too). If the doors have pin switches to operate the internal lights you'll need to put a piece of tape over them so that the ECU thinks the doors are shut and the lights don't come on. Once the car is in sleep mode, a normal quiescent current draw will be about 0.035mA or 35-milliamps. This is to keep the settings of such things as the radio presets, seat memory, alarm, GPS and maybe even more things too. If you find that the current draw is slightly higher, say 0.040mA that may be acceptable for the amount of stuff that needs to be kept alive - maybe Lexus publish figures of what's 'normal' for the car, I don't know? If, on the other hand, the draw is something like 0.080mA or 0.100mA then something is definitely wrong. As an example, if the car has a 50Ah battery and a draw of 0.085mA, it would go from fully charged to fully discharged in about three weeks (if my maths are correct ). It used to be acceptable to disconnect the negative battery clamp and wire an ammeter in series, then measure the draw and pull and replace each fuse in turn until the value dropped and that would be your faulty circuit, but there's a better way to do it now because disconnecting the battery could reset the ECUs and make the very fault that you're chasing, disappear. The preferred method now is to switch your multimeter to a millivolt scale (I know that we've been talking Amps up to now but for this you definitely need it on millivolts) and simply put the test probes across each fuse in turn because you're looking for the voltage drop across the fuse. In very general terms, the higher the voltage drop the more current is flowing, so the highest reading should be your faulty circuit. For a more accurate result you can refer to these charts here. Once you have a circuit that's giving a high reading you can pull that fuse and confirm the actual current draw by switching your meter to the Amps scale and placing the probes into the fuse socket. There's quite a few good videos on Youtube that demonstrate better than I can describe in words, so just search for videos on 'finding parasitic draws' if you want to.

So will a double press of the lock button on the fob.

Rather than a new battery just for testing purposes, why not get a jump start battery pack like this one instead? If the battery is faulty it'll be covered by warranty given that it's only a year old so your money is probably better spent in getting one of these. The 12V batteries in hybrids are small and don't have much capacity so it's not exactly common, but not unheard of either, for people to come back to a flat battery after a two-week holiday and the car has been stood in the airport car park doing nothing. These little units are brilliant and work really well. Small enough to sit in the glove box, it's always handy if it's ever needed. It also stops you from looking like an unhelpful scrote if anyone asks you to provide a jump start for them rather than refusing (because you should never use a hybrid to provide a jump start).

You sure Peter? Doesn't that just double-lock the car? It does on my RX450h.

Or buy a big yellow steering lock - not pretty but deterrent is the best defence. If they think it's too much hassle they'll move to a softer target.

Yes, it is a CD so if your laptop doesn't have an optical disc drive you'll need to get an external one (about £15) or borrow one from someone. The disc is only needed to install the software, not to run it, so once it's installed that's it.

Possibly, I'm not sure. One thing I do know is that some OBD2 codes are manufacturer-specific so a generic reader is very unlikely to be able to read anything to do with Toyota/Lexus hybrid systems. If you've got a laptop then the best thing is to get a miniVCI cable from eBay, as it will come with a copy of Techstream which is the diagnostic software used in the main dealer workshops. Of course, it will be a pirated copy so it's up to your own conscience as to whether you use it or not. You can officially and freely download the software from Lexus and then pay for a block of time to use it, but either way you'll need that miniVCI cable anyway. This is the one I got and I can confirm that it works well.