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Seized rear calliper's...


MrTrendizzle
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Just changed my rear pads as i scratching sound was heard from the rear passenger side. Found that the entire pad surface had sheered off from one of the pads.
While swapping them out i decided to give all the slide pins a damn good clean and fresh grease.
Drivers side guide pin was entirely seized which required a stupid amount of brute force to break loose. I spent 20 minutes hammering it back and forth, half a can of WD40 and half a can of gas heating it up. But it finally broke free.

I gave it the biggest clean of its life using a bottle/straw type brushing and attacked it with my wire wheel. Added a little more grease and put it back together.  

Problem is the knocking on the rear passenger brake is still there. When i apply the brake it's fine but as soon as i ease up there's a "Clunk/Knock" sound. I can physically move all the calliper's with my hand, so i know it's not seized and there's no play that i can find in the suspension or joints using a big pry bar. Even Kwikfit couldn't find the issue.

Regardless the car stops much better now. It definitely seems the rears grip more than the fronts so i'll have to crack those off and check their pins. But for a grand total of £27 and an hour of work it's something we all should check to be safe.

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20230311_135034.jpg

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5 hours ago, Colinb623 said:

Can I ask what type of Grease you used on slider pins ?  I'm doing mine soon and thinking of using this. 

 

I just used normal standard copper grease. I have a GIANT bucket of the stuff so slowly using that up. From what i understand Toyota/Lexus recommend a silicone type of grease rather than copper, so we shall see how that affects the brakes.  

Honestly it would've been a 20 minute job if nothing was stuck.

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wow Mr T you did well freeing up that caliper. 

Basically any grease will do But Do Not put grease on the Ends of the shafts or in the chamber the shaft goes in. It could cause a hydro lock. A spray oil is fine in the chamber. 

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14 hours ago, Mr Vlad said:

wow Mr T you did well freeing up that caliper. 

Basically any grease will do But Do Not put grease on the Ends of the shafts or in the chamber the shaft goes in. It could cause a hydro lock. A spray oil is fine in the chamber. 

Thank you Vlad.  

Do you mean the the circled part in this picture? Don't put grease on the end of that pin? If so i might need to remove them and give it a clean up 😮

Capture.PNG

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Each to their own I guess.

I have always used Red Rubber Grease for the slide pins. You can find it most places as 'Toyota Red Rubber Grease'. I found nothing else worked as well over time. You don't want the grease you use to have an adverse effect on the rubber boot on the slide pin. 

For the pad shims and piston to shim contact area I use Copper Grease.

Having said that I do re-grease and check them every year. In fact I've just done them on wifey's MX5

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Do not use coppaslip.  Always a favourite years ago , but not now. Use the grease supplied with the pads. We would always use coppaslip on 1st motion shafts when replacing the clutch.  Now if you have warranty claim on the clutch and manufacturer found any residue of coppaslip the claim would be void. It dries out and sticks. Same on wheel nuts and studs. We were banned from using it onHGV wheel studs and nuts. It affected the torque clamping force. Only engine oil is used.  Source Institute Road Transport Engineers.

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In my experience the major problem is caused by grease previously applied hardening over time due to heat from braking. The only effective solution is to ream out the hardened grease in the sliding pin hole and to use a tub of silicon grease for lubrication and rust resistance. This is highly temperature resistant,doesn't harden nor causes damage to any rubber or plastic such as the boot covering the sliding pin.

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