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Mr Singh
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Hi Am, Looks like you've got a big job on your hands. Hope things sort themselfs out soon mate, can be very frustrating when you have to wait.

Was good to finally meet you, even if it was by accident :lol:

BR

Paul

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Hello Paul

Yup looks i got my hands full, and the frustration is getting worse but not much i can do at this stage!

Your car sounds like a beast! very impressive stuff :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry to hear about the Tezza, hope you get it sorted and back to 110% soon

IF you need to take the head off does it need to be skimmed before it goes back on...have heard this with some cars...

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Head will be skimmed and pressure tested before it goes back on.

Right now i'm looking at getting a complete head rather than re-building mine.

Thats IF i have any luck obtaining one, not having any luck at present :(

Will keep you all posted

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Robin H suggested calling Janspeed about heads... Since they use Altezza for there BTCC entry...

No luck there, only brand spanky new engines for lil over £3.5k

:crybaby:

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Good news, i have allocated a head, complete with camshafts. I should have it in next few days...

Just need to order head gasket, head bolts and new cambelt :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Okay i now have a head.

I' should be getting the following soon,

1x Cambelt

1x Cambelt Tensioner

1x Cambelt Idlers (2 off)

1x Head Gasket

1x Head Set

1x Set of Head Bolts (10pcs)

1x Red Engine Coolant (5ltrs)

1x BEAMs Engine Cover (got trodden on!)

1x Lower Timing Belt Cover (old one melted)

Let say the parts have come in at well over £1k (inc. Head)

:crybaby:

I'll get some pics up of the debris behind the cambelt cover, you simply will not believe you eyes :yahoo:

Some other mods are being introduced now, more on that later :shifty:

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Okay i now have a head.

I' should be getting the following soon,

1x Cambelt

1x Cambelt Tensioner

1x Cambelt Idlers (2 off)

1x Head Gasket

1x Head Set

1x Set of Head Bolts (10pcs)

1x Red Engine Coolant (5ltrs)

1x BEAMs Engine Cover (got trodden on!)

1x Lower Timing Belt Cover (old one melted)

Let say the parts have come in at well over £1k (inc. Head)

:crybaby:

I'll get some pics up of the debris behind the cambelt cover, you simply will not believe you eyes :yahoo:

Some other mods are being introduced now, more on that later :shifty:

Ouch :o Soon be back on the road then

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Yeh its been 5 weeks now still i've saved few hundred on fuel these past weeks :hehe:

Always look on the bright side of life, bee do bee do be do bee do :lol:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Recieved parts from Chris S today, thanks alot buddy :)

Stripped the head down today... will spend most of the day rebuilding it back... those collets will be a pig to get back in!

Will get some piccys up of the re-build

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Heres a 'How to' in rebuilding a head.

mini-P5270001.JPG

Parts i required,

Head Set (this inc. every seal gasket on the head) ((Head Gasket, Manifold Gasket, Inlet Manifold Gasket, Throttle body Gasket, 2 Water Casting seals, Crankshaft seals, Stem seals, breather pipe seal, Rocket cover Gasket with Spark plug seals, Fuel injector seals, Fuel line O rings))

Head Bolts (10pcs)

Cambelt

2x Cambelt Idlers

Cambelt Tensioner (self tensioning)

I also required, new engine cover and lower timing cover due to old one being melted.

--

Ok so now the heads been removed, first thing is to remove all the Valves, Valve Springs, Colets, Buckets and shims... Do this with valve spring compressor. You will also need some tweezers to remove the collets or a powerful workshop magnet... i used a magnetic piece to pull the collets out and tweezers putting them in later on.

headtools.jpg

Make sure these are all removed and put into labelled bags so the correct part goes back in the original place!

mini-P5270012.JPG

Like above.

This is the head with all the 16 valves removed,

mini-P5270004.JPG

To clean the surface use a clean scraper, preferbly with a square flat edge. Scrape off the old head gasket debris. You can use a degreaser or oven cleaner to initally loosen the muck (i recommend anything citrus based, especially orange degreasers they make the job much easier) I then used 2000grit wet and dry with a block and lightly blocked the surface. This doesn't take any material off, just very thin debris for a nice clean surface.

Next i removed all the Stem Seals

mini-P5270005.JPG

Do this with a pair of pliers, be careful not to score the edge of the shaft though shouldn't be a problem... Wiggle and rotate the seal before one ***** to pull it free.

Next we want to clean all the valves free from carbon build up.

This is not a problem on the Inlet valves, fuel keeps them clean. The Exhaust ones are a PIG to clean up so be prepared..

Here are some before and afters...

mini-P5270023.JPG

mini-P5270025.JPG

As the Valves are Titanium i decided to use a rotary wire brush attachment on the drill, it took about 5-10mins per valve to clean them up.. But them came out like new! Few grazed fingers so wear some thick gloves :P

mini-P5270026.JPG

mini-P5270027.JPG

Left, After.. Right, Before :)

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Now its time to grind the valves

Valve seats before,

mini-P5270006.JPG

You will need Valve cutting plunger with cutting pastes..

to cut the valves you apply three small dabs of corse paste onto the sealing surface at the back of the valve, you then insert it with the plunger and rotate the plunger like you are making fire on one of those discovery channels lol (you will need to then repeat with fine paste at least two more times or until you are satisfied that the paste is being pushed out of the sides of the valve in a uniform manner indicating that the valve seat has been matched)

mini-P5270028.JPG

you also need to lift up every few seconds and rotate the valve about 90 degrees before placing back down to make more "fire"

mini-P5270029.JPG

before (left) and after (right)

you can feel after only a few moments of rotation that the paste has been pushed out so you wipe up and repeat a couple more times with fine paste.....some valves/heads will need more cutting than others but in this game less is more.....if you remove lots of material you will at least affect the height of the shim (we will come to those later)

mini-P5280031.JPG

mini-P5280032.JPG

The Exhaust Valves will take as many as 3-4 applications of course paste to get rid of the 'pitting' on the valve seat, followed by 1-2 applications of fine paste. You will notice the surface will turn from a shiny almost polished finish (especially on the intake side) to a matt finish. On my vernier most of the cuttings measure a uniform 2mm of seating area, no problems just VERY numb palms haha :lol:

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With all the Valves cut (took me 5hrs on the exhaust side alone, inc. Cleaning the valves themselfs) its time to start assembling all the parts back up...

First i want to install new stem seals..

mini-P5280036.JPG

mini-P5280037.JPG

mini-P5280038.JPG

mini-P5280039.JPG

Bit of advice on these:

These are very easy to install, you must make sure your square when i install them, push them till u hear a double click (u will feel it) and then use a 12mm socket with small exstention and tap them lighly.. They won't fully go all the way down on the valve guide seat, there will be a finger nail gap as i also found on my original head... (before i knew this i killed about 8 seals trying too hard to seat em :blush: )

Now were ready to install the valves...

Dab some oil on the shaft of the valve, make sure there clean and free from debris of any sort.. you can use Fuel and a clean rag

mini-P5280044.JPG

mini-P5280042.JPG

Grease the collets,

mini-P5280045.JPG

Using the Valve spring compressor and some tweezers install the collets... its a very merticulous job... So have patients if u have shakey hands!

mini-P5280043.JPG

I did 8 valves fairly easy, no more than 5mins per valve with takin them outta the bags and cleaning them...

Once all the valves are back in... you are nearly ready to put the head back on...

However i need some more stem seals :shifty: So i will continue later

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