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:tsktsk: stupid :tsktsk: sodding :tsktsk: bloody pulley nuts, especially the :tsktsk: crank pulley even the :tsktsk: alternator can i shift them can i :tsktsk:

i think they are holding the :tsktsk: car on

Sorry needed to vent i am getting rather annoyed with this little job

arrrghhhh

Austin

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best thing I every bought was a 2 foot breaker bar for my socket set, had to get it when changing my front discs as broke 3 spanners and a cheap socket set.

Problem with japanese cars, they just bolt em together without using any grease, they just don't think about people having to undo them a few years down the line

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best thing I every bought was a 2 foot breaker bar for my socket set, had to get it when changing my front discs as broke 3 spanners and a cheap socket set.

Problem with japanese cars, they just bolt em together without using any grease, they just don't think about people having to undo them a few years down the line

been tried grolley bar is now broken as is a previous socket which smashed into about 10 different pieces

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Yeh, the crank pulley bolt does have a high setting of 240 llbs/ft or something.

More fun doing it up I'd imagine :D

yep 239 lbs/ft torque on the crank ons not a problem i have a very long torque bar its off thats getting to me this may be going in to toyota to swap as i am even more angry with it than earlier and we are heading to basil faulty country, it may be in for a damn good thrashing

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i changed a cam belt on one of these cos lexus did not have one but we made one up to undo the nut but it was very very tight i think it was two sockets and lot of sweat but you have to have some thing to lock the crank shaft up or you will not get it off

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I just had cam belt changed, the only way my mechanic could get it off was with an air wrench and that took a bit of time !! scary tight they are... :blink:

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That's how I got mine off but did'nt want to admit it!! :winky:

its going in to toyota to get changed that way if it shears its their problem i don't want to be pulling an engine for the sake of a bolt

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Never known one to shear.

I've used the starter motor to get one off before, bar against the floor, and flick the starter, not the best way, but normally does it.

Like you say though, if you've done them before, and this one aint budging, stick into the main dealer.

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its going in to toyota to get changed that way if it shears its their problem i don't want to be pulling an engine for the sake of a bolt

How much have Lexus quoted to do it ?? :blink:

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its going in to toyota to get changed that way if it shears its their problem i don't want to be pulling an engine for the sake of a bolt

How much have Lexus quoted to do it ?? :blink:

i don't know yet, i may wait till i get the cam pulleys and new belt and get the lot done in a oner.

i am still tempted to do it myself we will see. I like the idea of a big pole and turning the engine over to crack it off. But then i still have to tighten it up again

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Cracking that bolt is the hardest part of a cam belt change.

I have done 3 now and they all needed a big scaff bar on a long socket wrench.

I locked the crank by tying and old fan belt around the pulley and anti roll bar and twisting it in the middle a few times with a crowbar.

Came off no problem on my last one and It only took 50 mins from start to finish for a cam belt change.

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You won't have a problem torqueing it back up. The reason that its so tight is this

Torqueing the bolt up is the same rotational direction as the engine. The bolt over time further torques itself using the inertial force of the engine. (we used to get this on the aft heads jesus nut on the chinook helicopter, we usually ended up drilling the nut off as theres ***** all you can do when the 7000 Lb F Ft multiplyer won't move it). So basically its going to be significantly higher than 200 lb f ft of torque to remove it but you only have to put 200 Lb f ft of torque on it when you do it back up, which is torque wrench tight not ten white knuckles and bust a blood vessel in your head tight.

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just done the cambelt myself this weekend on a 2000 gs300 yes that pulley nut is a :tsktsk: .and a quote of £295 + vat from lex dealer put me off, its not hard so a bit of thinking later put my two foot breaker bar and socket on the bolt and the other end under the drivers side chassis two click of the starter motor and its off :D .

yes i know what you all all thinking but what else can you do

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You won't have a problem torqueing it back up. The reason that its so tight is this

Torqueing the bolt up is the same rotational direction as the engine. The bolt over time further torques itself using the inertial force of the engine. (we used to get this on the aft heads jesus nut on the chinook helicopter, we usually ended up drilling the nut off as theres ***** all you can do when the 7000 Lb F Ft multiplyer won't move it). So basically its going to be significantly higher than 200 lb f ft of torque to remove it but you only have to put 200 Lb f ft of torque on it when you do it back up, which is torque wrench tight not ten white knuckles and bust a blood vessel in your head tight.

ah jesus nuts that brings back memories

bell housing nuts are of a similar vein

Sooty by the way?

i only have one torque setting anyhow and its 5 white knuckles and a click of the wrist either that or TFAR ;)

To others thats going to sound really cryptic but Brian will know what i mean lol

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  • 3 weeks later...

Accursed Splitter I'm afraid. Still am but working for the MOD now.

TFAR??? Not gettin that one lol

ah appo's i remember them

TFAR - that feels about right

Never Tfar'd always calibrated wrist'd lower torques and a vast array of white knuckles and various quantities of bulging forehed veins on higher torques :)

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Had the Timing belt changed on my Altezza recently and the mechanic couldn't believe how tight the pulley nut was...... in fact he said he had to go away from it for a while, to let the penetrating oil sink in but mostly to get his breath back ...:lol:

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  • 1 year later...
just done the cambelt myself this weekend on a 2000 gs300 yes that pulley nut is a :tsktsk: .and a quote of £295 + vat from lex dealer put me off, its not hard so a bit of thinking later put my two foot breaker bar and socket on the bolt and the other end under the drivers side chassis two click of the starter motor and its off :D .

yes i know what you all all thinking but what else can you do

There is an easy way, I have just done mine all you need is the special toyota tool to hold the pulley which I made, a 22mm three quarter drive 6 point socket (don't what ever you do use a 12 point it will chew the end of the head of the bolt) and strong bar plus a meter long extension pipe to slip over the strong bar and exert some muscle and common engineering skills. Remove the fan assembly it makes the job a whole lot easier and safer. If you need dimensions of the special tool or further help email me. As a matter of interest My GS 300 has done 108K and the original belt is in very good order.

email address for further info. pics etc.

Motivate@xtra.co.nz

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