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Installing A New Tte Spring


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Does anyone know how to install a new TTE spring?

hi there,when you say spring i guess your talking about suspension?

Well I emailed TTE for a new spring for my supercharger and it arrived yesterday but it is not quite what I expected, so not too sure how to go about fitting it to the supercharger.

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is it ok to remove the current spring without securing anything else first??

@gord, i may call you when i get round to doing this matey :whistling:

Yes Rob ok, its just a case of fitting, as in the pic mate :D very very easy, 5 mins max.

Do you have my number ??

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is it ok to remove the current spring without securing anything else first??

@gord, i may call you when i get round to doing this matey :whistling:

Yes Rob ok, its just a case of fitting, as in the pic mate :D very very easy, 5 mins max.

Do you have my number ??

yes mate i do.

will give you a bell if (and when) i mess it up :lol: :lol: :whistling: :whistling:

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Does there have to be that much slack in the bypass !?

Yes or as much as you can :winky:

Am i right in saying the more slack there is the more pressure there will be behind the charger for longer?

cant really work out your question - what do you mean by "behind" ?

if the bypass is open (which it normally is) then the air is recirculated which means no or little pressure.

As the eaton supercharger is a fixed displacement pump, when the bypass is closed no air is recirculated so because the pump provides excess air this causes the pressure increase.

the longer the bypass is open, the longer it takes for pressure to rise - it does not matter how long the bypass is closed for either because the pressure is dependent on the roatational speed of the supercharger and in the tte system the throttle and bypass are linked with the cable but AFAIK the positions are not linear.

if the cable is slack the longer it takes for the pressure to rise compared to a tighter cable - but the time difference is minimal.

The reason the cable should be slack is if the cable is too tight it can cause problems with the servo in the electronic throttle. the 2 nuts should be adjusted to the minimum amount of travel

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there should be a full fitting guide included with the kit

not as far as i'm aware rob.......

i asked because when i recieved mine it included a guide with the kit.

it is easy to do - from memory - u need to remove the bitsof the old spring etc so you are left with the shaft that comes out of the bypass - fit the tab washer ( helps if you bend the tab a little upwards first) - then the nut - tighten nut then bend up the tab on the washer to lock the nut (look at the picture) then fit the spring , then the plain washer and then the R - clip to secure it all.

move the bypass by hand to check if it is all smooth etc

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Does there have to be that much slack in the bypass !?

Yes or as much as you can :winky:

Am i right in saying the more slack there is the more pressure there will be behind the charger for longer?

cant really work out your question - what do you mean by "behind" ?

if the bypass is open (which it normally is) then the air is recirculated which means no or little pressure.

As the eaton supercharger is a fixed displacement pump, when the bypass is closed no air is recirculated so because the pump provides excess air this causes the pressure increase.

the longer the bypass is open, the longer it takes for pressure to rise - it does not matter how long the bypass is closed for either because the pressure is dependent on the roatational speed of the supercharger and in the tte system the throttle and bypass are linked with the cable but AFAIK the positions are not linear.

if the cable is slack the longer it takes for the pressure to rise compared to a tighter cable - but the time difference is minimal.

The reason the cable should be slack is if the cable is too tight it can cause problems with the servo in the electronic throttle. the 2 nuts should be adjusted to the minimum amount of travel

What i was thinking was that when you put your foot on the throttle pedal this in turn pulls on the cable for the bypass? the slacker the cable the more you have to put your pedal down to activate the bypass? Therefore the longer the bypass is closed the longer the pressure is sitting at the backside(between charger and engine) which is increasing all the time forcing it into engine? And as soon as your bypass opens the pressure then bypasses back to the front end of the charger and is getting sucked in again. This was just my understanding of it all

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yes mate, i asked this also.

think gord is gonna put some pictures together for us all......

what did you get in the kit....a nut, a v-shaped spring, a weird looking clip, and a washer?????

Yeah that's what I got

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Thanks to the picture and that little guide I have managed to install my spring. Only thing is when I reach high revs the bypass snaps shut 3/4 of the way but then sticks and closes slowly for the last 1/4. Is this normal??

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move the bypass lever by hand is it smooth and easy to close all the way?? did it do the same thing with your old spring? have you touched anything else?

Yes the movement is totally smooth when I move it by hand, I dont know if it did the same thing with the old spring and I deffinately havent touched anything else. The cable on bypass is pretty slack though, could it be that?

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the cable is meant to be slack - but take a pic pls.

good way to check if all is working is turn ign key untill all the dash lights come on then u can move the throttle pedal or the throttle drum at the throttle and then watch the movement of the bypass.

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