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Hi All,

I have recently purchased an IS220d with 57k on the clock. I am going to have a go at cleaning the EGR valve to see if it improves performance and just wanted to make sure that i do it right. I have looked at the instructions from the toyota owners club that someone posted but it looks quite different from the IS220D. Do i need to remove the whole pipe that is attched to the engine manifold and clean inside the pipe or just the main part of the valve?

I found pictures from the link below where someone removed the whole lot and left for an hour in boiling water. Is this a good idea?

http://forum.clublexis.com/viewtopic.php?pid=145028

Do i really need to remove the Battery because it looks like you could get to it without removing it?

Any more images or instructions would be very helpful.

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Ok i managed to find instructions on a French website and have translated the instructions so apologies for the poor grammar.

Step 1: Remove the engine cover with the Lexus logo. Just lift it, it pops. Then, locate the EGR valve. It is located right above the intake manifold. There is a small sticker on the Red part of the electric valve.

post-14267-128467607767.jpg

Step 2: Locate a socket wrench 12 and unscrew the two nuts holding the bent aluminum tube on the valve. Free aluminum elbow by falling / twisting gently upwards. Take care not to lose the O-shaped diamond.

post-14267-128467610373.jpg

post-14267-128467612975.jpg

With this same key 12, unscrew the two screws holding the valve holder. Once the screws removed, lift the gray foam and pull the entire valve upward to remove it.

Once the valve exit, you end up with this:

post-14267-12846761542.jpg

Step 3: We will now work on the valve itself. Remove the electric part of the valve body of the valve. (3 allen screws to remove)

On the left, the electrical part (be careful to remove the black seal the metal part of the valve). Right, the metal part of the valve.

post-14267-128467619818.jpg

Step 4: Cleaning the metal part: With a small flat screwdriver, gently scrape the carbon deposits. Do this on both sides of the valve (input and output). Then make sure you have plastic gloves, a plastic container like Tupperware and acetone.

post-14267-128467622164.jpg

Use acetone to clean both sides of the valve. Alternate acetone bath and then clear water to rinse. You will see that the scale goes alone. Once clean, finish with a final acetone bath.

It is important not to end with a bath of clear water because the moisture does not favor at all the next startup ...

Step 5: Replace the gasket and tighten the electrical part of the valve on the metal body.

Step 6: Clean with a cloth soaked in acetone support the valve (side engine / exhaust). Also clean the aluminum inlet elbow in passing your finger. The dirt falls off by itself. (If you have time, you can try to remove the aluminum tube bent to make him also an acetone bath, but be careful not to lose the motor side nuts!)

post-14267-1284676242.jpg

Step 7: Replace the gasket on the rectangular base of the valve (exhaust manifold), replace the valve and screw it on its stand. Then replace the O-shaped diamond on the valve, twist the aluminum elbow to the valve and screw it onto the valve. Finally, replace the plastic cap stamped on the Lexus engine.

It is possible that by next start, the engine sputtered a bit during a few laps.

So there! Go take a look around and try it:-D

I must say that the most obvious, apart from a rise in more flexible and better recovery is the fact that there are no small holes that feeling of acceleration above 3000 rpm min.

Good weekend DIY

PS: It will still work better without it! (Equivalent to five months of fouling, and even then we do not see this as acetone dissolved ...)

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Step 2: Locate a socket wrench 12 and unscrew the two nuts holding the bent aluminum tube on the valve. Free aluminum elbow by falling / twisting gently upwards. Take care not to lose the O-shaped diamond.

post-14267-128467610373.jpg

I am bit afraid of bending the tube... are you sure this is the right procedure?

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it is a bent tube which you have to bend :) or remove from other side.

Anyway I did it now, I bend the tube in the wavy part - I still doubt it is correct method, but once in 60.000kms I find it OK. My egr was not very dirty (as also the mpg shows). Only this I was able to get out of the valve.

18092010136.jpg

The manifold was also bit dirty, but the hole was not covered with dust at all.

I haven't had premium diesel for 40.000kms... so my advice is - rev! don't use 6th on your highways (with long box). Try to stay over 1.800rpm on 4th, 5th and over 2200rpm on 6th.

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  • 2 years later...
Guest bigbullhead

The manifold is the thing that is worrying me as I have looked at inlet cleaning kit but can't get my head round putting a liquid into an inlet manifold where only fumes go any answers????

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When I had my 220d I cleaned the manifold inlet mouth with a flat blade screwdriver. Have a long reach Hoover pipe handy and use it to suck up any debris as you prise it off around the inlet mouth. Use a torch to check your progress.

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can i just confirm that the inlet pipe wasnt fully removed, it was just detached where it bolts onto the egr valve as im doing mine this weekend and im not the best at car maintenance

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If you want to do it properly you should take off the inlet (top) pipe too. There are two bolts at the back of the engine block. They are a tad fiddly and you will need a selection of shortish socket extensions. Or, take the Battery right out and you will plenty of socket space.

If you don't do this you will be bending the pipe somewhat forcefully...not a particularly good idea. But it can be done with care! Don't forget this top pipe could have a lot of sooty material in it too.

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honestly normski the less i have to fiddle with the better, i have seen them 2 bolts at the back and did very quickly try to see if i could get to them with a small exstension bar but no luck and the big bar is to long with the Battery in.

does the Battery just need the 2 terminals removed like a standard Battery as i saw a connector on the side of the outer casing and looks like that needs disconnecting?

sorry to be a pain but does anyone have the link for the window resetting if i remove the Battery, i did see it on this forum somewhere

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honestly normski the less i have to fiddle with the better, i have seen them 2 bolts at the back and did very quickly try to see if i could get to them with a small exstension bar but no luck and the big bar is to long with the battery in.

does the battery just need the 2 terminals removed like a standard battery as i saw a connector on the side of the outer casing and looks like that needs disconnecting?

sorry to be a pain but does anyone have the link for the window resetting if i remove the battery, i did see it on this forum somewhere

Resetting the windows is a very simple operation really. For a guide on how to do it though, just go into 'Forums' and without going into any of the sub forums (such as the IS250 one) scroll down the page and keep your eye on the right-hand-side and you will spot the guide you require which was put up originally by normski.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi guys, Having this issue on the wife's 220d. must say thanks for all the information on here. Fantastic stuff!

Also I've found a video on how to clean up the valve, you might have seen it but here it is anyway.

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10,000 miles after the last EGR clean, the car started to become hesitant, poor torque almost misfiring sometimes. This is despite regular additives and using premium fuel. I thought I'd take a look last weekend just to see if it was the EGR or something else.

Well, sorry for the lack of pics but the valve was clogged up as bad as the first time I saw it. Loads of hard carbon and soot preventing the valve from working properly. 2 hours later and a thorough clean I restarted the engine. Took 4 attempts to start but then settled down.

There was some immediate improvement and the car has been getting better all week. But fuel consumption has plummeted from high 30's average to low. I'm concerned that the turbo may be clogged up or on its way out.

Service is due in a couple of months but I may bring it forward if things don't get better. Still the occasional heart stopping moment when the car just bogs down from a standing start as you pull out of a junction....not nice.

Anyone else had turbo issues or am I reading too much into this? There's been no warning lights or any indication other than the poor driving characteristics described.

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I need to take the cover off mine to check really but does the walkthrough on the previous posts apply to the IS250 also or is the valve in another position?

There is no EGR on the is250. It is only found on the Diesel engine.

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