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steve2006

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Everything posted by steve2006

  1. The problem is most insurance policies require you to notify them of any accident whether at fault or not and even if you do not intend to make a claim on the policy, just read through that pile of paperwork which arrives with the Certificate of Insurance.
  2. Would you mind disclosing the company providing these fine discounts? Mine has remained around the 300 mark since I bought the car 6 years ago but the excess and windscreen excess keep rising, and the allowed annual mileage keeps falling. Something else I discovered recently was even if you have a no fault accident it can still put up your premium apparently some companies do increase whilst others don't.
  3. Just a little advice please don't be offended but it is not a good idea to try and bump start a car with a catalytic convertor. Reason being is if the engine doesn't fire up you may get neat petrol dumped straight into the cat. Having said that most injected cars will not operate the fuel injectors until the engine is cranking at a predetermined speed , normally around 500 rpm so bump starting will not work.
  4. I had the same problem when I couldn't get my usual type of oil anymore and actually contacted Castrol to enquire if their Magnatec 5W-30 A1 (Ford) oil was suitable. After quoting all the information out of my driver's handbook they confirmed it was but were surprised that an engine of this age (1994) was able to use the latest energy saving type oils. They also advised if the engine began to use oil at higher mileages to change to 10W-40.
  5. Even though the battery measured 12.5V I would still say the battery has failed, when starting the battery current is the most important requirement (CCA) and if there is insufficient it won't be enough to start the engine or power anythng else like the hazard lights if really shot. Did recovery not try a boost start?
  6. Have you replaced the seperate VVTI oil filter as they can get clogged and reduce the oil pressure feed required for the actuator?
  7. Sounds like an excuse putting the blame on the driver, so what has actually been done, has the dealer simply reset the ECU and deleted the code or has something been replaced that caused it to come on in the first place. Time will tell if the fault reappears.
  8. The police are investigating the attempted theft of an ATM from Shepherds Bush, several witnesses have said they remember a small black Lexus in the area at the time.
  9. I'm going to ban all these posts relating to cheap LPG either that or I'll have to have mine converted
  10. There are even video tutorials for doing the job now, you can get the kits on fleabay. At least it's not an LS400!
  11. Hello and welcome to the LOC. Obvious places to check are the fuel lines and unions, the fuel filter especially around the seal, the primer pump ( if the 220d has one) and then the injectors and feed pipe unions. If it is difficult to see where the leak is due to diesel contamination clean the area with either degreasant or a steam cleaner first.
  12. I've seen complete custom built stainless steel systems on fleabay for around 350.00 made and fitted while you wait, probably cheaper than getting the OEM parts?
  13. No experience with that dealership but if you are unhappy with the service they are providing ( or not in your case) I would vote with my feet and find a more accomodating dealer nearer to Ayeshire where you live.
  14. Sorry I should have been more specific to assist you as a new member.As you have now discovered ACLex is the clubs official parts guy and has helped me several times.
  15. Mising covers won't cause any damage they are purely cosmetic. have you considered contacting ACLex to see if they are still available perhaps as old stock at an old stock price!
  16. Hello and wellcome to the LOC. Are you sure it is the potentiometer that has gone and not just the link rod that normally fails, the link rod is around £30.00 from a Derby supplier. Have a look underneath the rear suspension to see if everything is connected. Lexus only sell the whole thing at a price!! 89407A SENSOR SUB-ASSY, HEIGHT CONTROL, REAR RH 89407‑48030 1 € 387.57
  17. Reg number could be correct I have a 97 Celsior on an R plate.
  18. Is this any good to you? http://www.ebay.co.u...0f#ht_730wt_956 Sorry missed half the posts so you seem to have sorted it, the link below is a guy in Birmingham who is breaking one if you don't get the other one. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/lexus-is200-altezza-is300-wheel-nut-breaking-sat-nav-model-GENUINE-TRD-BODY-KIT-/270998915878?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f18cb4b26#ht_500wt_1204
  19. If it came from a Lexus dealer as an approved used car I would ask them for a set preferably free of charge. I am surprised it wasn't noticed on the pre delivery inspection.
  20. That's what I was thinking, has the previous owner fitted an after market unit because of the CD player issues on the OEM unit and then just thrown the old one back in when selling the car. At least it's nothing too major, the prospect of lexus ownership can cloud the mind and things are easily missed on viewing.
  21. Check for brake binding, if this model has the usual caliper pins check for seizure, also check the wheel bearings for play and/or roughness. Just checked and yours does have caliper pins on the front brakes so check these first and regrease them the shims and the pad contact points onto the caliper.
  22. I'm a little confused here, in your original post you said you had replaced the alternator and then the problems started but in a later post you said the battery kept going dead because of the alternator, so has the alternator been replaced or not? There have been cases where an alternator on its way out causes all sorts of weird and wonderful faults with a car's electrical and electronic systems as they are venerable to spikes and surges on the power lines.
  23. Good diagnostics Alan, coil packs can become thermally sensitve and if they weren't carefully removed and stored correctly during the HG replacement and could have been damaged. I know these are expensive but normally they are replaced as a full set of six. You could switch number six with one of the new ones and then recheck the fault code to see if it has followed the faulty one to it's new position. But make sure you clear the codes before doing it or you may have two codes. BTW have you bought OEM ones for the two already replaced?
  24. Most reputable tyre places can remove locking wheel nuts without causing damage to the wheels, one method is to put a blob of weld on the offending nut then hammer a suitable socket over it and then remove the nut. If I had a decent set of alloy wheels and tyres I wouldn't fancy not having locking nuts on, there are some decent after market suppliers but Toyota generally have the sleeved wheel nuts as opposed to the tapered types so make sure they are suitable.
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