steve2006

Try a PM to Maurice ( benfur) he normally has some parts.

It's all seems good for Lexus dealers tonight! To find your service history they normally need your VIN and possibly some proof of ownership. BTW how much did you pay for the Type IV ATF? When I got mine a few weeks ago I went to Lexus Derby and thought it was taking a while only to be told that he had to go to the Toyota dealer across the forecourt as they only had 5 litres on the shelf and "borrowed" the other five!

We don't have all these problems on the LS400s the front wheels face the direction of travel and the rear wheels follow the fronts simples!!

So nice isn't it? I only use Lexus Derby for the odd part now and again but it is always the same, greeted by the lush receptionist as you walk in along the plush carpet, taken to a nice leather chair, "Would like like a drink sir? Sean the parts manager will be with you shortly" Sean duly arrives takes my order,returns back with it and to save me having to move brings the chip and pin machine to me to pay then always has 5 minutes to chat. I wonder if they will get me a taxi there and back next time!

Well after yet another British winter with the salt on the roads my chrome alloys are not getting any better. After pricing the cost of refurbishing them I decided to look for some suitable replacements. With me having nearly new tyres fitted I did not want to go to the expense of buying tyres to fit new rims so needed some wide ones to take the present tyre set up ( rears 255-40-17 fronts 235-45-17) and finally came up with these on Fleabay. Two have nearly new tyres on so I may either leave them on ( depending on make and quality) and just swop the other two tyres over from mine or if they are budget brand sell them back on Fleabay. My old rims may also go on Fleabay as they are. After my last attempt with new wheels ( chrome ones for which I got some stick on here! lol) I am hoping these meet with everyones approval. BTW although they look chromed in the pictures I am assured they are not. Anyway have a look and make your comments. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...%3D1&_rdc=1

Open the box or take the money? Phone a friend or ask the forum? They do some nice Lexus Jackets/coats. Depends on what you are looking for something personal or something for the car. Or you could donate the prize and let me have my car filled ( almost) up!!!!!!

Very common, take the boot seal off clean it & around it , run a bead of silicone sealent around the metal lip replace the seal & all should be well. Cheers lads I'll try both just to be safe Look you have PMd me 3 times asking about the Koi carp, pondlights and water feature but now you are saying that you are going to fix the leak do you want these fish or what!!!!lol

Hello, Welcome to the LOC. I am sorry to hear of the problems you have with your LS. Firstly with the wiring loom being damaged was it all checked for damage in the area where the starter motor cables were as there could be other unseen damage to adjacent looms. You don't have to go to Lexus to get the codes read they are OBDII diagnostics so any reputable garage should be able to do this for you. As you may be aware the starter motor is positioned under the intake manifold between the engine V and there is a lot of dismantling required just to get to it and there is therefore the possibility of damaging other components during removal, the most common is damage to the knock sensors just to the rear of the starter motor which if damaged would flag up a fault code and may cause the engine to go into "limp home mode" giving you the lack of power you describe and the management light being illuminated. Getting a diagnostic check will of cause confirm the fault area. As the garage carried out the starter motor work and you have already paid them insist they take the car back and do the necessary diagnostics and repairs to bring you car back to it's pre work condition, excluding the starter motor of cause. You also mention the transmission is jerky I had the same problem on mine after replacing the starter myself and found that I had mis adjusted the throttle cable link to the transmission which has to be removed when doing the starter so it may be worth checking this. I hope you get everything sorted but I would certainly insist the garage sort the problems for you without further expense.

There were some new coils on Fleabay at £38.00 each and a set of leads at £78.00 I can't comment on quality. You also really need to check/replace the distributor caps,rotor arms and plugs at the same time. For now I would start the car from cold at night and have a look under the bonnet to see if you can spot the arcing/tracking main suspect is the RH coil ( passenger side) HT lead as it passes under the timing belt upper cover, there is a gromit there which may not have been refitted correctly so the lead will chafe. Running it with a misfire could damage the cats.

Suggestions like that could get you banned! You must remember this is a quality car and therefore koi carp, some floating pond lights and a water feature are required.

I only have one of those Ebay CD ROM Mitchell ones but it does the job.

Hi, Welcome to the LOC, You say the radio is completely dead with no display? as they normally ask for a code when the battery is disconnected. You could check the fuses fuse no. 4 and no.18 both located on the passenger side fuse panel below the glove box. Recommended oil is 10w30 a decent semi synthetic use a genuine filter only.

It's exactly as ManicMark says. There is a rubber drain plug in the wheel well to get rid of the pond.

Go for the simple approach 1st. The LS400 is designed to run on super unleaded with an octane number of 95 or above so try a tankful of the good stuff "BP Ultimate Shell Optimax etc" and see if the problem goes away before going any further.

Hi, Yes the Toyota Type IV is expensive in the UK at £44.00 for 5 litres ( in the US it is around £30.00 for 9.5 litres!!!!) I did mine myself using 10L but as the filter only needs doing every 100,000 miles I left that as I am only halfway there. My old fluid was black so it was ready for sure. No difference in gear changes but as you say it the peace of mind knowing it all good in the box. It may be worth changing the diff oil as well ( considerably cheaper!!)

It looks pretty conventional in the manual so I would remove the brake disc 1st then the top and bottom ball joints and the trackrod end balljoint then take it somewhere to have the bearing replaced which should involve removing the retaining nut to release the hub flange then removing the circlip,bearing and seal then reassembly.

Ok I'll try and explain. You will no doubt own either a radio or a Hi-Fi system which will have a rotary volume control if you turn the knob clockwise the radio gets louder if you turn it anticlockwise the sound level goes down until you cannot hear it. This is the principle behind the TPS but in this case it is connected to the throttle butterfly so as you press the throttle pedal in the car the engine speed increases and as you release it the engine speed falls. The reason for the TPS is it tells the engine computer the position of the throttle butterfly i.e closed ( idle speed) fully open( maximum revs) or somewhere in between. It does this by varying the voltage from the TPS which is normally between 0 volts at idle and 5 volts at fully open throttle so for example when the engine speed is 2000 RPM the output voltage from the TPS might be 2.5 volts. However when the throttle is fully closed (at idle speed) the engine computer needs to know this as air required by the engine is still needed to maintain tickover even though the throttle is fully closed so a switch is incorporated within the TPS to do this which in turn tells the engine computer to supply the air via the IAC ( Idle Air Control) valve. If it did not have this air supply with the throttle closed the engine would stall. The error code you have is suggesting the voltage at idle from the TPS is too high which could indicate adjustment is required. BTW what is your normal tickover speed when the car is warmed up fully with the AC turned off?

Did the garage replace the water pump before they realised it was indeed the fan bracket? I remember the Ford Corsair in the 70's I think they made a 1600 V4 and a 2000 V6 a mate had one and it was fine until his wife came in it to collect him from work misjudged the entrance and hit the steel gate post,try filling those pointed wings in with filler!!!!!!!

hi steve thank you mate has the diff got a drain plug or just a level plug many thanks neil No problem, The diff has both a drain plug and a fill/level plug they are in really tight so give them an overnight soak of WD40, you will need a 10mm hex/allen key socket and a breaker bar to get them undone but make sure you release the fill plug 1st before the drain plug or you could be in the situation of having drained the oil you cannot fill it back up. You will also need 2 replacement crush washers when refitting the plugs As I said do a tutorial search on www.lexls.com and all the info is there.

Hi, Engine recommended engine oil is a quality semi synthetic 10w-30 ( 5.1 ltr with filter change and use a genuine filter), transmission fluid is special Toyota type IV only ( £45.00/5 litres) and diff oil is Hypoid gear oil SAE90. For DIY tutorials go to www.lexls.com and click on tutorials.

The heating elements in the seats do fail but it is unusual for them all to fail so I would check the fuses/circuit breakers 1st. Fuse no. 23 rated at 20 Amp. If you need to test further you will need a wiring diagram and a digital meter.

Nice job, I bought the same LED lights off Ebay some time ago but have never had the time or inclination to fit them, I didn't fancy damaging the mirrors in the process then there was the problem of getting the wiring to them. Don't get the wiring wrong or you'll end up with flashing blue lights, useful but illegal!!!!

Hi Dan, Welcome to the LOC. Excellent choice of Lexus model. Buy the biggest,Buy the best!!!!!

I know the local authorities are struggling at the moment and running out of grit but this method lulls you into a false sense of security. On my way home tonight I stopped on a main road near home at Swanwick Derbys to call into a shop, as I got out of the van I saw a gritter lorry approaching all ablaze with its flashing lights so stopped behind the van awaiting the inevitable sound of flying grit. There was no sound and indeed no grit being spread. I would assume there is some kind of monitoring system on the vehicle to indicate the hopper has run out so to carry on to me is a complete waste of time and diesel. Or is this a ploy to make people think the roads have been gritted when in fact they haven't. Obviously it is at the end of the day the car drivers decision whether to drive on the roads or not and take the necessary precautions. So even if you see a gritter lorry "spreading" don't assume it is and the road is not covered in black ice.

Hi, Did you switch on the wipers when they were still iced up and stuck to the windscreen? If so you may have either disconnected a linkage or broken it. As ihpj says have a look at the locknut on the wiper arm and then if under warranty get the dealer to repair. There is only one motor driving both arms connected via what Lexus call the "Link Assembly Windscreen Wiper."