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Everything posted by Cotswold Pete
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MK4 on eBay
Cotswold Pete replied to The-Acre's topic in LS 400 / Lexus LS 430 / Lexus LS 460 / Lexus 600h / Lexus 500h Club
I love the fact that it has not a spec of rust as it has lived in the south all of its life. Does this mean down south the council use fairy dust to de-ice the roads where as up north they use toxic-chassis-eating-road-salt? -
I assume in cassette mode making calls would work if the phone mic was able to pick up my voice (which being a nice and quite LS should not be a problem). Not sure if and when I'll get off my backside and buy the gateway, as I have other things to spend wonga on at the moment. It is a shame the LS400 was around just before all this MP3 stuff took off, and trading up to a 460 seems a little extravagent to also be able to watch videos and dial from the console screen. But if I do go ahead I'll let you know if it works, especially if someone buys me a Fire tablet with a 256GB card (so I can drop most of my music library - compressed - onto the tablet). The only problem I find with Bluetooth is a lot of devices get confused by twinning to too many devices, and you end up having to reboot this that and the other.
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More than happy to let my good lady take my old lady out for a spin, but she thinks it too much of a barge so rarely does it happen. The fact that I do not have Bluetooth is also a factor in not liking it, so she has to make do with my choice of music if ever she takes it out. Her motor is a 10 year old XJ type 2litre V6, nice car, but not a patch on the 400. I only drive the jag to keep my use of manual gearbox skills up to scratch.
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Looking at that picture that would not be the plug that normally gets removed when leaky boot syndrome occurs - my Mk3 and Mk4 had leaky boot and it gathered in teh wheel well, as the water runs around the seal and then leaks in near the boot lock. So it might be just a case of putting some duct tape over the hole and then after some decent rain check out the boot. The appearance of the jack and brace seems to show corrosion worse then any of mine were, but not sure if that is just quality of the picture. If the boot has been collecting water for any length of time the spare will have a very dull and (possibly) corroded appearance. The only other thing I know if that can cause problems would be a water ingress on the rear clusters, but the MK4 has a better design of bulkhead fitting to reduce chances of this.
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I would say test drive a 460 and if it feels right then from the driving experience it should be right. If not then try another one or two, and you'll know. As to reliability, a more sophisticated motor is bound to have more sophisticated faults (and wallet impact), and the 460 is a more teched-up motor than the 400. I would say I found my Mk3 a really strange drive after previous Vaux Omega, and for a while I was wondering if I had done the right thing. I would say that the first 30 minutes in the Mk3, told me it was worth sticking with, but previous test drives if a wide range of motors in the past - mid range priced Vauxhalls, Fords, Mazdas, Mitsubishi, BMW, Audi, VW, Rover, Saab - I would know within 10 minutes if I was going to like it, and most of them I did not. The only car I ever drove (just for a day) that I fell in love with straight away was a Rover 827 Vitesse Fastback (down the M4 in dead of night at a touch, just a touch over 70), but had to give it back to my manager after 24 hours. Then had to go back to my Cavalier SRi
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What I like about the LS is it does waft along in near silence. But when you floor it the cabin fills with a lovely v8 thrum. Now what people outside hear, I am not bothered about. And compared to my MDs Aston Martin, which sounds like a angry wasp when pottering, and Kim Jong Un versus Trump going head to head when floored, I suspect the LS engine could never be that uncouth.
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I would think that if the surface of the light is 100% smooth, with no micro scratches then applying a sealant works, though it will break down as UV light (which can be from your headlight, as well as sun) will break down the coating. If the surface has scratches (even ones you cannot see) then it would probably harbour organics material which would grow under the seal and mean it would break down quicker. Agree that the professional route is time saving, but eventually the lights would need re-doing as the coating breaks down as part of its natural life. Also where you get bigger pitting in the light this probably harbours gunk that works away at the surrounding seal. I bit or research seem to show polycarbon caoting at manufacture has a lifetime of 10 years before UV breakdown occurs, but the wear and tear on a headlight would accelerate this. I redid my headlights with T-Cut on Monday, and though not as good as new, I get a way cleaner beam, and night time driving a little easier. I did not coat, seems to be a bit of a debate on lifetime of coating, anything from 1 year to 4 years! What seems to be clear is that a decent coating is not cheap, so a workshop job would be good value in my view. The joys of owning a car without glass lights.
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£35 seems a fair price given how much time it takes to do along with materials. Assuming they UV sealed as well I will be aiming to do mine properly next time, where as about 12 months ago just did a five minute rub down with T-cut, which does make a difference, but without using a UV sea,l the light clouds up again. Still T-cutting every year may be an answer - if you just need a PoundShop price solution.
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This is a nice little chart. The chap who last did tracking said cornering can be the problem, but being a sedate sort of chap am a little surprised, as never had this problem with other tyres. Maybe I should justdrive over the roundabouts on the way to work, though may cause me a few other problems doing that!