peniole

This guy's channel is very useful, can one of the mods sticky it please. Nice find David! Spark plug, filters and fluid replacements for a host of lexus vehicles. https://www.youtube.com/user/Vikgerasim/videos

Thank God we can still access the jump points in the engine bay without electricity (cable latch release). Can you open the boot (and battery therein) when the 12v is dead? It's an electronic release on mine.

Well with a hybrid, technically you could start it from the cig lighter, you'll only be using those jump batteries to start up the dead electrical systems, the traction battery would take care of spinning up the electric motor and subsequently the actual engine. Assuming of course the traction battery still has charge and that cig circuit is connected when car is off.

Compact Jumper batteries can feed though the cig socket to jump start the car https://www.acc4u.co.uk/collections/jump-starters/products/black-decker-12v-cigarette-lighter-plug-in-car-battery-booster-jump-starter

While newer lexuses and other manufacturers have their primary cat in the engine bay for quicker warm up, it's the secondary cats they're stealing now and those are still below. GS wasn't a target in the past, it is now...

Here's a question for you Herbie. I've read the manual cover to cover, always do, and while that procedure is in there they are vague about the EPB. If the 12v battery is dead, does operating the shift lock release release the EPB? Only thing I found outside of the manual was this, and it seems the answer was no on an NX and to release requires removing the wheel. (https://www.clublexus.com/forums/nx-1st-gen-2015-2021/950980-how-to-manually-release-parking-brake-when-battery-is-dead.html) Seriously what was wrong with the manual handbrake?!

11 gallon tank, car can do 60+ MPG on long hauls, that's 660+ miles if you want to run it to empty. See

The only "tire preserving" driving I do is I don't brake often, at 84k I still hadn't changed pads. I maintain speed and plan beyond the tip of my nose when it comes to slowing down and accelerating. Not particularly difficult to do, especially when I know the route and know when and where speed limits change. On the other hand, loops I take at maximum posted limits, and enjoy the lateral G's. That civic was known for its cornering ability and I relished its limits in the dry and the wet. Took it on twisty routes through the Eifel. I also enjoyed the excellent off the line acceleration. I also maxed out that car on the autobahn on more than one occasion but not frequently. Mind you that civic only weighed 1.3 tons. Oh and I drove that car non-stop germany to uk and back once before selling on that same set of tires. I'm on my second set now on a new car. I drive considerably more sedately in the ES than in the civic. However, we have rougher surfacing here, and it's a 1.6-1.7ton car. I'll report back how long this set lasts with my "driving style". EDIT: proof of longevity attached to previous post. Tire compounds and treads have moved on from our prior preconceptions.

Have the measurements on dealer service papers to prove it. Rather insulting of you to say outside realm of reality. I will note that's on German tarmac, UK surfacing is a lot rougher, but speeds are more sedate. EDIT: proof attached from last service before car was sold to the same dealer 11.2021 with 4k more use. btw Tires replaced prior to PDI, received car with <10km on odo.

Last set I sold the car 3+ years later with 84k km and they still had 4.5-5mm left. Average MPG on a 2018 1.5T manual civic was 5l/100km (56.5MPG). Yes they did get noisier with age. Must be rotated.

They've come a long way from your preconceptions in tread and compound. The michelin cross climates performed as good as summer benchmarks and outperformed them in winter.

Do you plan running a two season setup, summer and winter? If not, all seasons from michelin (cross climate plus, my choice and what I run) or goodyear (vector 4seasons) or the newest conti all season could save you the hassle of swapping sets twice a year.

I'll second warped discs. If it's not too bad and the discs are still servicable you could get away with a resurfacing. If it were me, I'd just have the whole set done with new discs and pads and a good reconditioning of the calipers. Brakes is the one area, no-one should skimp on. Re suspension components, could be the dampeners are on their way out, you would feel that kind of vibration after spring/coil decompression (i.e. right after a bump), but if you're getting it on smooth tarmac then it's probably just the calipers. Once up in the air I would also check linkages for perished bushings and play in the suspension.

Given the diminutive home garage sizes in the UK, this would be a useful feature. I've seen too many garages where if you can park, you better sleep in the car. You ain't gettin' out. Next time I see an architect design or builder build a sub 3m wide garage I'm going to slap them.

If it was intentional, I hope there's a special place in hell for people like that. Had mine, as you say, "baptized" the other day too in a traffic jam by an a$$wipe taxi belting down the hard shoulder. Left side got hit by rocks, some polished away, a couple were fingernail feelers that needed some touch up paint 🤬

Yes, explicitly mentioned in the manual

That is one dirty ES!

Germans don't do subtle, do they 😆 I should know, dealt with them for a decade As for the ES, as I approach the car in the dark the handles light up enough for me to see where to reach for. I'd say functional without being vulgar. Same for the footwell lights, enough to see where to step getting in without spot checking to see if my shoes are shiny enough. P.S I leave daily early morning in the dark

Congratulations! One question why do the panel colors look a bit different between the front and back doors, or is that just from the shooting angle?

Is it just me or does it seem capable of taking a full size spare? EDIT: just answered my own question, it can https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-drives-initial-ownership-reports/205507-driven-lexus-es-300h.html

I'm favoring the last one on that list recently, it's easier and not far off the 365 for longevity which can be a faff (make sure to apply liberally and technically requires 24h to cure). So f you don't have a garage and can't leave the car for the full 24h I'd go with the waterless one step process. Another advantage of the waterless is that you can use it on windows and it behaves like rainX. Last thing to mention the 365 has excellent sheeting action while the waterless beads more. The 365 might suit you more if you don't let it completely strip, then next wash might be easier to dry as the water would mostly sheet off, so not much left to dry. Just make sure to use a shampoo that claims not to strip wax, and stay away from the harsh jet wash shampoos. See

365 paint protect https://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/product/meguiars-365-paint-protect-hydrophobic-polymer-sealant/ Lubricant https://www.amazon.co.uk/Meguiars-A3316EU-Quik-Detailer-473ml/dp/B0002JMO8K Lubricant https://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/meguiars-34-final-inspection Waterless one step https://www.amazon.co.uk/Meguiars-G3626EU-Ultimate-Waterless-768ml/dp/B006FUT0CS

If I'm feeling up to it, I use meguiars quick spray detailer, (the lubricant you get with their clay bars) to prep the surface, making sure there's no remaining dirt after the wash is left over, followed by meguiars 365 paint protect (lasts a couple of months longer than the next method). Although now I'm older and lazier, and they have basically combined those 2 in their waterless wash and wax (just make sure to shake the bottle frequently as you apply, be generous, and use 3 microfibers not 2 = apply/dry/buff). I Still wash (jet wash, foam and mitt), still do a quick drive, then use waterless wash and wax and I'm good for a few months of touchless jet washes with only water (preferably DI). Dirt just falls off. Once the beading is reduced and you start seeing road film remain, repeat. I've cut down my actual touch washes to 3 a year and that's with jet washing the car in winter once a week to rinse down the salt (touchless and only water, don't forget the wheel wells and undercarriage). Application is easy and gentle, no hard rubbing required for either post wash method.

Yup haven't hand dried a car the last 4 years. Makes a huge difference even under LED worklights. Although I just drive it after the wash (quick motorway jaunt in dry clear weather) then apply lubricant/polymer based protection.