peniole

minus the merc's recent reliability record

oh the samsungs are not that much more btw 16 pounds for the 64Gb, that is if they are in stock https://www.samsung.com/uk/memory-storage/memory-card/pro-endurance-microsd-card-with-sd-adapter-64gb-mb-mj64ga-eu/ Either way, on amazon pay attention to the seller. I wouldn't trust third party sellers. I think direct from amazon the sandisk is 12.29 (only 7p more). Sansung can't find it direct from amazon,so above link included but they're out of stock.

if it can only write to 64Gb then the 128 might not even register unless you jam it in wrong, I don't see how a storage card can hurt the camera

You're right on SSDs (I use samsung for my machines) but sandisk SD cards have been flawless for me for the last two decades in multiple devices including cameras. Just make sure you don't buy counterfeit ones. A lot of the bad rep comes from those. See https://www.techadvisor.com/test-centre/storage/best-microsd-cards-3640745/

I would save your money and get a better spec and also made for high number of read write cycles like this (https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-Endurance-Monitoring-Dashcams-MicroSDXC/dp/B07NY23WBG?th=1) at less than half the price with double the storage.

Have you tried turning it off from the instrument cluster option menu rather than the button. Last menu on the right (the cog wheel) and scroll down to the vehicle settings. Car needs to be on and parked, it greys out when moving. Also remember to turn off the lane departure or active LKAS if you don't want any steering intervention when getting close to lines, or at least to warning mode so a beep or a vibration. It's a two part system LKAS and LTA. First keeps you in the lines, second centers you in lane when DRCC (adaptive cruise) is on.

Level 1 warning visual - hands on wheel Level 2 audible warning Level 3 system disengages with audible warning and icon turns white Yes depending on the road the system can be a bit nagging, surprisingly the system in my last civic was better at resolving the lines. This one seems a small step back compared to the honda one, although the ACC here is miles better. The Honda one was a lot harsher on the brakes and picked up more cars on exits and while over taking. eh you win some you lose some. In either case, the system does reduce fatigue on looonger journeys. I can attest driving 13+ hours to germany and back with and without the system. System default for the LCA is high sensitivity, I haven't lowered it. Would be interested to read about your results next time you go out.

I've had cars with and without. Can't say I mind either way as long as it's motorized.

Highly unlikely, looks like a man. defect to me.

No auto fold setting for premium edition

You do have auto high bean, but not of the matrix variety. Just high when no-one is around, and back to low when an oncoming or overtaking car is detected. No blanking out trickery. Simple button at the end of the stalk to activate and deactivate the system.

https://insideevs.com/news/550021/cold-lfp-battery-tesla-model3/ Depends on where it's parked overnight, can in worse case scenarios affect charging.

Good step for cheaper mass production, agree, really want to see a scale up production run of their tabless batteries.

Nice link, but that's just November that they overtook the diesels, scroll down to the YTD and there's still a 60k gap. Overall they're still just 10.6% of all YTD sales compared to 14.7% diesels; the rest of that pie goes to the various petrol/hybrid guises at 74.7%. I like BEVs, we have a Tesla model S since 2017, which fits my father's retired needs, they just aren't quite there yet for the majority, wish they were.

Not the least bit surprising the range hit BEVs take in winter, even ones with heat pumps. A fact that is constantly glossed over. Then you have the cost of charging (public chargers per mile cost are on par with hybrid fuel costs and that's not taking into account higher purchase prices). The final nail in the coffin of current BEV tech is the loss of range over the car's lifetime. The just aren't there yet to be one's only mode of transport. Maybe once they move to SS batteries, or have a scalable viable way to store hydrogen that doesn't require such high pressure.

Who would foot the bill if you had a functioning infotainment system and the dealer while replacing the battery causes the failure?

FWD RWD 4WD nowadays make no difference when it comes to braking and ABS, unless one has a foot on the gas and the brake at the same time or is applying heavy downshifting while braking. No modern cars have much engine braking nowadays anyway. Also, with EBD (electronic brake distribution) front and rear brake bias is a thing of the past and takes into account where downshifting (or in our case for hybrids regen) is helping and applies less brake force to that set of wheels maximizing and equalizing brake force. It's why newer cars don't dip their nose as much as older ones. Now really nose heavy cars may struggle more with that (think pickup with empty bed), EBD really goes hard on the rears for heavy braking to counter the weight and prevent dipping but struggles with the lack of weight on the rears, ABS will then have to kick in. Again most newer cars aim for as close to 50/50 front to back weight distribution as possible. ES300h is 59/41 GS300 54/46. Not much in it to make a discernible difference.

I feel your pain, wish I could do the same. Pointless thing in an automatic.

Going in backwards, brilliant! Directs the wake away from the engine. On another note, why do people keep going through, is there no other way around?

The softness you mention is a byproduct of the so called self healing paint, and yes heating it up accelerates the self healing.

So my reading of procedure G confirms that the vin (or some other value they're calling the communications ID) is written in those 30 minutes, and is copied off the ID box (which is activated by the presence of the key). In your case that isn't happening. It's also baffling why a battery disconnect is not clearing the DTC. Have you tried a fuse disconnect, or just pulling the power cable from the ECU itself?

Well if communication link is broken, then yes the reset would likely fail, you wouldn't get an ECU reprogram, vin wouldn't rewrite and codes would not clear.

You're right, did some digging, it's ignition ring coil to transponder ECU (later named ID box) which also communicates with the EEPROM (where the keys RFID are stored, although newe 2018+ cars have deleted the extenal EEPROM), then the transponder ECU communicates the ok to the ECU.

wrong sequence, off first then pull jumper I always assumed the vin was pulled off the key, but I'm not sure

I assume you mean the 4 13 jump? 30 min might not be enough, need to leave the key in position 2 for more than 30 minutes, Ive seen people say 35 and some even to be sure leave it for 45. Also, did you see and continue to see all lights on the dash flashing when you did that? How is the battery state? Also, you're right, if it had been successful it should have written the vin to the ECU. One last thought, in case it has push button start, did you leave the key in the car the whole 30 min?