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Hi All, Hoping someone can help with an issue that’s what really irritating me. I’ve had my IS300h 2014 F-Sport for just over 3 weeks now. But I’ve noticed a squeak from the wheels at low speeds - probably up to 25 mph. If I had to say I’d say it’s louder when turning left. I’ve booked the car in to have it looked at for this problem and another but dealership can’t get to it until mid October. As I got it from a Lexus dealership I have the year’s warranty. I've seen a few posts on this in here but no resolution as the original poster doesn’t come back to say if it was ever sorted or how that was done. Understandable as we’re all busy I guess. Anyhow, anyone else had this issue and found a resolution? Paid a lot for the car so a bit disappointed by this and a few other niggles but hopefully just teething problems. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Hey Guys, I am loving my Lexus IS (first ever Lexus) and loving my first few months of ownership. I made a video of my car if anyone wants to give it a watch 🙂

Hi All, Hoping someone can help with an issue that’s what really irritating me. I’ve had my IS300h 2014 F-Sport for just over 3 weeks now. But I’ve noticed a squeak from the wheels at low speeds - probably up to 25 mph. If I had to say I’d say it’s louder when turning left. I’ve booked the car in to have it looked at for this problem and another but dealership can’t get to it until mid October. As I got it from a Lexus dealership I have the year’s warranty. Ive seen a few posts on this in here but no resolution as the original poster doesn’t come back to say if it was ever sorted or how that was done. Understandable as we’re all busy I guess. Anyhow, anyone else had this issue and found a resolution? Paid a lot for the car so a bit disappointed by this and a few other niggles but hopefully just teething problems. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Ken

I have had my IS300h from new since 2016. I will be upgrading next week to an ES300h F Sport Takumi. Last Sunday my car was reversed into in a Sainsburys Car Park so I have to get it repaired before swapping over cars. As the IS is going, I have available winter rubber mats for sale - used for 3 winters only then swapped back to OEM Mats, a rubber boot liner and 2 x ash trays (used to keep sweet in them and handy to stop elbows slipping into the cup holders). The total new was around £230.00 new. These won’t fit my new ES, so they are up for sale, if anyone is interested. As I am not on these forums a lot - email: stevewise00@gmail.com, if anyone is interested, please make me an offer. I am based in RG12, postage will be charged on top. If no one is interested by Tuesday next week (17th September) then I will let them go with the car when it goes.

Hi all, Just wondering if anyone had found a way of covering the cup holders in an IS300h so the surface is flat? It's quite uncomfortable for my wife and me when I sit in the passenger seat. The elbow seems to rest right on them. Such a weird thing to do to such an otherwise comfortable car. Can anyone recommend anything I can use to cover them? Thanks Ken

So, it's been exactly a week since I purchased my 2014 IS300h on 37k miles and with the F-Sport trim. I know people on here like to hear about the experience of Lexus 'newbies' so thought I would share my thoughts for those interested: What I like/love: - The refinement - It's so quiet and civilized in the cabin that now the slightest rattle (from my children's baby seats) catches my attention (and also mildly irritates me) :-D Even when you floor it and the engine revs, with windows closed its not that bad. A drastic change from the previous louder than normal 2005 diesel. I also like that it feels solid which was something my previous car lacked. - The convenience and tech - love the double edged sword of comfort entry (convenience v security - though I have bought a faraday box). Really enjoy the seat memorization and their comfort as well as the smell of the full leather (dark rose). Enjoy using the rear camera (and wonder how anyone can do without it as visibility isn't great through back window). - Styling - still loving the F-Sport styling and the look of the dash when it's dark and it all lights up (though I don't like it quite so much in the day). - Fuel economy - so far getting mid 40s which is good I think. It's similar mpg to the much smaller, much less refined BMW 120d I had prior. My wife drives it as well and I notice every time I come back to it after she has had it the battery seems lower than when I have it (perhaps she's not braking early enough for the regeneration or just using it more pottering about at low speeds). What I've noticed: - Acceleration doesn't feel as brisk as my previous BMW 120d. Accepted, it was a much lighter car and has a turbo but on paper they weren't too far off and this one has +40 BHP (at 220bhp overall) and a lot of people say the IS300h is quite fast in sport mode. What I notice though is that it doesn't feel fast or you don't get that push into seat acceleration, but then when I look at the speedo I'm doing 70mph so maybe it's a perception thing? I do notice a definite lag though between putting your foot down and the acceleration. Another thing to mention is I haven't found this 'kick down switch' people talk about on autos in this. Kind of like a notch for extra power at the bottom of the pedal. Floored it today to see and felt no such thing. Am I doing something wrong? Oh and finally on this topic something weird I've noticed. In sport mode if you release your foot from the accelerator pedal (to coast) , weirdly it seems like the car almost instantly slows down a little and loses a bit of momentum - much quicker than if you were in normal mode. It's really weird, I tested it a few times this morning. Has anyone else noticed this? - Sound from Dolby system - unfortunately for me, the car I found with most of the things I wanted and at a reasonable price point doesn't have the Mark L sound system. I find the Dolby one a bit lacking in bass and when I turn it up sometimes there is quite a bit of resonance and I feel like I may damage the speaker. Funny thing is when I play certain music it sounds a bit better so not sure if its because I'm streaming from Spotify when its bad and better when the song is downloaded? Wondering if I can fit a small active sub or if I shouldn't dare with all the hybrid electronics? - Navigation has an ugly light brown background on the map during the day but looks nice at night when it changes to the 'night color scheme' which is much less in your face. Is there a way to change the background color in the day mode anyone? Even my wife doesn't like it and she is quite easy going on such things. I on the other hand...:-D - Cup holders in weird position - just makes it uncomfortable for front passenger but someone provided me with potential solution of a cup holder bin (its for an Auris, but may fit). - Music currently being played via Bluetooth doesn't update on the screen when next song comes on (but some helpful people on here tried to help me with this). One said when you plug it into the USB and use it in that mode its up to date, you get slightly better sound quality and screen art - which is true. But its a bit of a faff plugging the phone in each time - which they also acknowledged. Well those are my thoughts after week 1. Would love to hear what you think! Cheers Ken

Hi guys, Having an issue with my 2014 IS300h, F Sport on 38k miles I purchased 2 weeks ago tomorrow and looking for recommendations of good Lexus dealerships near me I can take it to for them to look at it under the 1 year approved used warranty. My choices are: - Sidcup - Woodford - Southend-On-Sea - and at a push Tunbridge Wells Can anyone recommend any of these dealerships please as this is the first Lexus I've ever had so have no experience? I bought the car from Lexus Wolverhampton which is 148 miles from me os no chance I can take it there. Hoping to make a booking today so if anyone could help I'd really appreciate it. Just in case you were interested, the issue I am having is as follows: On Wednesday for the first time I needed to parallel park and I found that as I was moving the car forward and backwards to fit the space the brake pedal was vibrating intermittently and I could hear a noise from the engine bay as it vibrated something like a groaning/grinding noise or could have been a pump activating? I wasn't at full lock so don't think it's that and it definitely coincided with the brake pedal vibrating. I've felt it before if I am at maybe in traffic, release the brake to move forward a little and then press it again. But this time I guess because I was going backwards and forwards it was much worse. Anyone else experienced this? Any feedback would be much appreciated. Thanks! Ken

Hi All, I am due to go and see an IS300h tomorrow which I'm quite interested in buying. Was wondering if anyone had any advice for me on things to look out for? Details are as follows: - 2014 F sport (pre face-lift model) - 37k on the clock (so low mileage for age) - Full leather interior - Upgraded sat nav (with the mousey thing) and reversing camera - Standard sound system (NOT the Mark L version - which I would have liked but not sure if standard is decent enough?) - Heating/cooling seats - Buying from a Lexus main dealer with 1 year warranty and paying extra for the maintenance plan which will cover next 2 services - including the big 60k one (for around $1.3k all in). Is it worth extending the warranty? Part of the reason I'm buying is that they're supposed to be very reliable so seems counterintuitive. Aside from this I'm a bit worried about the security of the car due to keyless entry (I have a drive) and wondering if anyone has any advice - though it seems either faraday box/bag or turn off the transmission from key (by pressing unlock key twice while holding down lock). I'd detest having to put a steering lock on and off each time I park in my drive just for the convenience of not having to press a button to unlock the car! Any advice/help would be much appreciated. Cheers, Ken

For a long time I’ve been puzzled by the Which? magazine review of the IS 300h. In their initial report they made it a Best Buy but a few months later downgraded it. Its website version of the review currently says: “Best Buy award removed. It's a very good car, but we found the Lexus IS emits so much CO (carbon monoxide) in our tests, that it would fail to meet any EU emissions limits set this century. As such, we cannot possibly recommend it.” Despite this negative review, there were lots of things I liked about the car, plus some ratings that sounded impressive: Best in class for 2013 NCAP safety World’s most efficient production petrol engine when launched, at 38.5%. (It was overtaken by a Honda six months later.) Routinely at top of reliability ratings. I was also doubtful about the Which? mpg figures. Their claim of 97 mpg around town was obviously nonsense and the motorway figure of 34 mpg looked doubtful too. They say their tests are performed in a laboratory but they don’t give enough detail to tell how they get to these extreme figures. I thought if the carbon monoxide figures are based on the same testing, they’re just as likely to be wrong. So I went ahead and bought an IS300h. I’ve searched in the past for some other independent CO test reports and couldn’t find any. Until today. But first, what is Which? claiming? They say it wouldn’t meet EU carbon monoxide emission limits set this century. I take this to mean Euro 4 in January 2005. (There was Euro 3 in January 2000 but that was the last year of last century.) The limit for petrol cars under Euro 4 is 1 gram per kilometre (g/km) of CO. So they’re saying the IS300h emits more than 1 g/km. For a long time I had no way of knowing if that was true or not. But at last I’ve found a website that shows real-world emissions test results. It’s called EQUA Index and they test cars by driving them around real roads monitoring the emissions from the exhaust pipe on a three and a half hour run. They give the IS300h their top rating of A++. This represents a band from zero to 0.125 g/km of carbon monoxide. (Their result is for the 2017 model but I don’t think there are any significant differences to the engine from the 2013 model. Please correct me if I’m wrong.) By contrast, Which? says CO emissions are more than eight times this figure. I know nothing about EQUA; I’ve only just come across it. But I’m more inclined to believe that real-world testing on roads will give a more accurate figure than a short test in a laboratory.

Hi all With pointers from various members (farqui, capese21), lots of reading, looking at service manuals, and mustering the confidence to rip apart the interior of my new Lexus Is300h, I have managed to install a front and rear dash cam (the Thinkware F770, £248 when I purchased, quite expensive, if Thinkware want to give me a rebate, I'd be delighted). It's been fuse tapped to the interior fuse box (no auxiliary / 12v cigarette lighter socket), all wiring hidden, none running in the interior, and I believe, safely (no cables running in front of SRS airbag deployment zones, ready to whip me in the head at 500 miles an hour). Having Previously taken my other cars apart, I usually end up with at least a snapped clip or something broken. This time, absolutely nothing. No broken parts, and all assembled as if it had never been taken apart in the first place. Stopping and starting throughout, and solving problems / making decisions as I went (I had no idea where I'd run it at first), meant it took around 3 hours to lay cables / re-assemble the car, and then another couple of hours or so to discreetly fit / mount the two cameras. I used some Fablon / Sticky Back Plastic to make it look like a factory install / to hide it. I've also got full DAB signal still which some had reported they had lost, due to electrical interference. I was considering a ferrite core (if that's what they're called), but have had no need for it. Pictures are not that good, and I didn't take loads, but the process ought to be quite clear with description. For any folk across the pond reading this, it is a right hand drive car! :-) I believe instructions on the web show the fuse box is in the driver footwell, but that is only the case on Left Hand Drive! Very happy with the outcome! =========== PART 1 - LAYING REAR CAMERA CABLING We need to lay the cables. The long cable that runs to the back of the car, to power the rear camera, and then the power cable to the fuse box. I thought at first, that I'd run it above the head of the driver (interior roof trim), but found that running it along the floor was the best way I ran the rear camera cable by starting from the rear view mirror. First, I disconnected to the 12V negative battery terminal in the boot. Just in case air bags wanted to deploy on me! It lost a bunch of settings, but not all of them. It was disconnected for hours. Make sure you don't shut that boot once it's been closed, I assume the electric opener won't work without the battery connected! Next, I removed the A Pillar. Pull at it (not too hard), and it'll begin to come lose. There are three fixing points. There is a safety clip (should the airbag deploy), that prevents the trim from breaking lose and flying into the cabin. This black clip needs rotating 90 degrees, so it can unclip from the white part attached to the trim. The middle clip (half way down) ought to have unclipped itself when you losened the trim. The final clip at the bottom, is held by the plastic adjacent to the air vent / the plastic that sits parallel to the door. Just pull that plastic panel apart slightly, and the third clip holding down the A Pillar should come off. Start running the cable from the middle of the windscreen (poke it into the gap at the top of the windscreen). Use tape to hold the cable to the trim, so it doesn't sit in front of the air bag. Poke the cable between the rubber seal and the plastic to run it down to the footwell. Then, remove the long plastic sill trim that runs parallel to the scuff plate. Underneath, you'll see a bunch of the harness wiring running inside white plastic clips. You can run your rear view cable in here, alongside that, there is plenty of space. I even cable tied mine in, to make it neat. You'll want to keep running it to the back of the car. Unclip the bottom of the large piece of plastic which houses the various driver seatbelt mechanism. Also, remove the rear passenger driver side sill trim, and also the plastic that runs parallel to the driver side rear passenger seat (this last piece is a bit hard to remove - it's the one with the holes in it, where the air flow runs for the rear passenger). With all these pieces removed, you can run the cable all the way to the back, up the side of the driver side rear passenger seat, and up to top of the seat. I then poked the cable in between the trim (use a plastic edge, I used my ice scraper), all the way to the back of the glass, and then ran it up the edge of the rear window. As I did at the front, ran it around the edge, and ended up with the rear cable at the top of the rear window, right in the middle! Any excess lengths of cabling, I looped up and cable tied together. There was plenty of space for me to leave this behind that ventilated plastic trim (by the rear driver side passenger). Unfortunately, I didn't take many pictures at this point (started in the afternoon, racing against time, before it went dark). That's the cable running from front to back, to support the dual cams! Great check point! Start re-assembling all the trims. They all should clip back on fairly easily. As mentioned above, the ventiled trim for the rear passenger is a bit difficult, but bear with it. The A Pillar is also a bit funny. You need to remove the black plastic clip that you had to rotate 90 degrees (little notches to push in to release it from the body work). I spent ages trying to push it together at all sorts of angles, before realising it unclipped, and it would absolutely not go back together unless removed. It'll push nice and easily back into the body work after. PART 2 - LAYING POWER CABLE / CONNECTING TO FUSE BOX I removed the A Pillar on the front passenger side, the plastic trim that has the airbag on / off key switch mounted in it, the bottom of the glove compartment (prises apart, use the ice scraper again), and the plastic sill trim, to allow unclipping of the one piece of plastic trim. Temporarily disconnect the cable running to the passenger footwell light too. I ran the cable at funny angles (can't remember all the detail, I sepnt a while debating the best route, but I wanted it perfectly discreet) behind the airbag switch and inside the dash board chassis / frame. I had to loosen a few of the door seals to get accces or to make things fit too, don't be afraid to do that. Again, I used cable ties to hold wiring neatly in place. You need two fuse taps (they are micro, low profile fuses in this car), and used 2A fuses for the tapped circuit. One for Battery (always on / parking mode), and one for ACC On (for driving mode). I really like this cam due to time lapse mode (30 mins video, in two min chunks), good night vision, the built in battery saver (to stop it flattening your battery - no need to spend £50 on something like the Blackvue Power Magic), and the fact it is front and rear. Using a multimeter, I checked which side of the fuse was providing the power, so I didn't put the fuse in the wrong way (See https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/piggy-back-fuseholders-a-right-way-and-a-wrong-way.7524/). Wrong way, and a surge could mean the fuse doesn't blow to protect the camera. If I remember, the way my fuse tap was, it means the cable was pointing toward the driver side of the car (away from the front passenger door). That'd mean, left pin / side of the fuse slot providing power. I used the 15A "HAZ" (Hazard) for the always on / battery power (for parking mode), and then the 10A "IG I no.2" for the ACC On (for driving mode) as power sources. Worked perfectly. No interference / issues a week on. The plastic sleeves hosuing the DAB / Rain sensors, and the rear mirror mount, slides up and down. I used this to hold the dash cam cable up to the edge of the windscreen. I had to remove the white fuse box lid, and leave it off. It sits so flush / tightly against the fuses, that there is no room to re-install the it after. I am thinking of buying an additional cover, and cutting bits out, to fit around the fuse taps. I'd not like water in the fuse area from passenger feet. Neither having it kicked. Either that cap being cut up, or a metal frame screwed to the interior plastic, to prevent a foot smashing my fuse box and damaging my fuse taps. Or both. Yet to do this however. Earthed it on the bolt attached to the fuse box (black frame, silver bolt) - visible in the below pictures (image 08) PART 3 - MOUNTING CAMERAS As mentioned previously, I used sticky back plastic / fablon (rip off, £6 a roll in Hobby Craft for loads, I need about 30cm squared max). I cut it to the size of the front and rear cam, and stuck it to the windscreen (a bit of alcohol to clean the window first). What I didn't do, and wish I did, was hair dryer it, so it would melt a bit, and really bond itself to the windscreen. Can see small air bubbles from the outside if you really look, but most people won't. I wanted to do this, so the cam wouldn't get stolen. If it looks factory fit, it's usually less tempting. Great idea from capese21, I saw on his thread from a couple of years ago! Thanks! Also ran a thick strip parallel to the rear view mirror mount, to which I ran the cables up against, to the edge of the winscreen. I mounted the cameras onto this using the provided VHB tape in the camera kit (so difficult to remove the plastic bit to expose the sticky bit - cut it with a knife to get it started). Solidly mounted in place. Cables all connected up, I re-connected the 12V battery, and powered on. Be careful to check which way the rear camera is orientated before sticking it down (I've read people sticking it on upside down, and having a hard time removing it to correct it - the VHB is so strong). Before mounting the camera, I used the Android App, to view the camera in Live View mode (so I could ensure positioned correctly). Front camera is mounted off centre, on the driver side. It's out of view behind the mirror. Not ideal, but there are other things in the way. Smack bang in the middle would have been perfect. I configured my camera to shut off at 12.1V. Whilst car is on, the camera shows it is receiving about 14.4V. I set it to shut off after 6 hours, but as I've had no flat battery, tempted to set it to 24 hours. If the voltage gets too low, it'll shut off anyway. My advice: Take it slowly, leave plenty of time, don't rush the install. Flawlessly working. Any questions, let me know, I'll do my best to help. Pictures below, roughly in order. They should help a bit! Matt

Quite a few people ask me how to best look after their hybrid battery packs during hot weather. All Lexus / Toyota Hybrids are equipped with at least 4 thermal sensors, in most cases more, so theoretically if all those & their associated cooling fans / ECU's / wiring / ducting / grills etc are all in good clean working order then the vehicles should 'look after themselves' so to speak so no real great cause for alarm or worry - however - issues arise when any of these fail or become broken or clogged. Also we are all human so when it's hot we want our AC Air Conditioning on, it is not generally known by hybrid owners, however, that our Air Conditioning compressor motors are not driven by a belt & pulley from the engine as the vast majority of other vehicles are. No! ours are driven by quite a heavy three phase electrical motor directly fed via a converter from our Hybrid Battery. If our Hybrid Battery &/or system is not in good condition & we are sat in traffic, for instance, the engine not running & the air-con working to cool us - the hybrid battery will quickly drain & be topped up by our hybrid system resulting in a bit of a see-saw effect (discharge/charge) which in itself is not very good (whatever anyone else says) for the health of our Hybrid Battery in effect it eats away at the capacity of the battery. What can we do about it ? Some simple steps like setting our A/C's at a specific normal temperature say 20 degrees & placing it in automatic mode, this will ensure the compressor runs only when absolutely needed, not having windows open while A/C is on as we are then trying to cool the entire planet, other simple things like parking in the shade where possible, keeping all vents & air intake grills clear of detritus. If you know your Hybrid Battery is a bit weak you are probably better off not using the AC at all. Hope this helps

Hey Guys, As I am a huge Lexus fan, I made a video on the top things I love about my 2019 Lexus IS300h Premium. I hope you guys enjoy the video, feel free to comment things that you love about your Lexus? Thomas

Hi there, I am the proud owner of my first Lexus, only a month old to me. I have a Toyota Supra as a weekend car, however i am enjoying the drive of my is300h after upgrading from an old Astra 1.7DTi as the daily. I have looked over the forum and tried searching for the answer, however it doesnt seem to fit my problem. I like the entertainment system, however it lacks any real depth. At first i thought the car came with a sub on the parcel shelf, however on further inspection, it just has a cover in place where the speaker would be for the prem nav spec. My question is, is there any wiring loom which i can come off from so that i can install an external sub box and amp. I have read that some people have used a rear door speaker output and fed this into a high input on the amp. Just wondering whether the cabling would be tucked away somewhere that i can use? Any help would be appreciated.

Hi, I've had my IS300h f-sport for around 6 months and the Active Sound Control has started to make a horrible noise. It sounds like the speaker in the centre of the dash is blown so I just get a hideous crackling noise from it but when I'm playing music the speaker sounds great... So I was wondering has anyone experienced this? Is the ASC played through a different speaker? And does anyone know how to get to the speaker? Thanks

Hi, I purchased a Nextbase dash cam yesterday with the hardwire kit. I want to install this in my 2017 IS300h. Is there an internal fuse box where I can take the power for the hardwire kit from? I want to tap into the cigarette lighter fuse. I have found the fuse box under the bonnet but can’t seem to see internal fuses. All help appreciated. Thanks.

Hi all! I recently bought a 2015 Lexus IS300h with 47k miles. The car is great, and I've been enjoying it so far. However, it's due in for an intermediate service at 52k. After taking a look at the checklist on the lexus website, it's just an oil change, as far as I can tell. I think, however, I am going to go to the dealer for the 60k full service, since it seems like a major one. Also, the closest Lexus dealership to me is located in Plymouth, which is a 60 mile drive, so it's much, much more convenient to take my car in for an oil change at a local independent. What are your thoughts? Thanks! P.S. I've been thinking of getting a hybrid health check separately, for £59. Should I go for it?

I bought an IS300h today in Sunderland UK from a main Ford dealer and expected to find a navigator in it. I hadn't checked first - serves me right. I used to fit car radios so I should be able to buy and fit one. Has anyone met this problem before? Where to buy? Likely cost? Any wiring problems or caveats ? Please? Thanks.

hi untill today i owned a 2013 is300h, 75k on clock full lexus history, i had owned it for 18 months. last christmas my parking sensors failed which got repaired under extended lexus warranty, but for the past 5 months my audio system kept braking 4 times it had new amps and few speakers, also my hybrid battery keeps fully charging, lexus insisted there was no fault, then 2 weeks ago my audio went again, followed by crackling noises in the dash and a bit of smoke near the pedals, followed by a warning saying hybrid system has stopped, engine cut out steering lock came on, luckily i wasnt going fast. lexus fixed the stereo but said could not find any error messages, they sent the car back without my will and as it arrived the electric windows and central locking went crazy. i was left with 2 options a sell for a lower than retail price back to lexus or drive it till it locks up again so had no choice but to sell. has anyone else had these issues

Hi All, Just about to take the plunge and replace my 2015 Jeep Renegade with a 2019 IS300H Advance with Premium Nav... Had a test drive for a week in a superb Sonic Titanium model - and it was every bit the car I wanted it to be - 55Mpg on a 300 mile round trip to Somerset, comfortable, quiet and refined. Sonic Titanium is a superb colour (initially favoured the Mesa Red) - thinking of going with the Sandstone Leather interior....

Hello everyone, I have a 2014 IS300h and im based in Ireland. 54000 miles on the clock, last serviced at 46000 miles (when I bought it) Over the last few weeks, and only occuring for a few minutes at a time ive noticed a high pitched sqeak/whistle noise from the front of the car. Today however this noise seems to be constant. Initially I thought it was the brakes but I wasnt sure, this is a link to a video where you can hear it: https://youtu.be/MBNvCsF6wdA I went to a dealership, and without actually looking at the car just assumed it was the brakes and that they'll take a look in 3 weeks when they have time. So im booked for the 11th June which sounds like a long time. The noise doesnt occur when I brake, only when im accelerating and only at low speeds. the noise gets louder as I turn the wheel...mostly turning left. Looking at the brakes, the pads have about 1.5mm between them and the disc on the right hand side and the about 2.5mm on the left hand side. Should I just wait the 3 weeks and let the dealership do their thing, its a Toyota dealership as there is no Lexus one nearby. Or should I just buy the pads directly from Toyota and get a 'friend' to fit the brakes and just be done with it this week? also, I have an allignment issue where it pulls to the left fairly hard and the wheel has to be halfway between 11 and 12 oclock to drive straight. Thanks in advanced for any replies :) Josh

OK, so I know that posting this in a Lexus forum will open myself up to a barrage of bias comments but please if you do have something to say try to be as un-bias as you can, constructive and justify your comments so they are actually useful. So, I've decided that for my next car I'm going to dig a little deeper into my pockets and get something decent, comfortable and an easy driving bit of luxury. Right now I've narrowed my choices down to a Lexus IS300h and a BMW 3 Series saloon 320d. I've had a test drive in the BMW (an M-Sport in exactly my price range) about a few hours ago actually and I have to say it did feel like a nice solid well put together car, looked great on the outside with the large M sport alloys in the exact colour I would chose but a little bland on the inside I have to say and the seats were a bit narrow, the wings of the seat stuck in my back a bit. All in all I wasn't blown away by it but not put off either, it felt like a sensible choice. My next choice is a Lexus IS300h, the nearest dealer is quite a bit further away but I will be going over to have a go in one and see one in the flesh before I decide. At the moment my main concern is the engine, I've never had a hybrid before or a Lexus so don't know how reliable they are. I don't do much city or suburban driving and don't get stuck in traffic it's mainly country and B roads so I'm worried that I won't see much of the efficiency of the Hybrid as compared to the BMW diesel engine. I explained my predicament to the BMW sales person and he was very understanding and didn't in anyway try to put me off the Lexus he just gave me exactly what I wanted, the facts and figures of the car I was looking at. I really am 50/50 on this right now, I know I still need to see and try the Lexus but when your spending a lot of money you want to make sure you do as much as possible to make the right fully informed decision. I'm not buying new, my budget is around £20000 and price wise both cars are almost identical for what I want. If anyone can help shed some light on my situation please do so but like I said please try to keep it un-bias (I know that's a bit silly to ask in a Lexus forum but try anyway) but also constructive and justifiable. Thanks in Advance Dave

Hi, I joined the Lexus owners last week when I imported a 2017 IS300h Advantage from the UK to Ireland. So far, I am very impressed with the refinement of the car and am starting to enjoy the driving experience after 25 years of diesel. I do have an issue however, as the fuel filler cover/flap will not stay closed. I can press it and it appears closed, but when I check it later, it has popped out again. If I lock the car, then the flap is unlocked. As its at the passenger side, I have to make the conscious effort to check it every time. Any suggestions on how to sort this problem short of visiting a dealer who is 90 miles away? Thanks in advance, Anthony.....

Hi, Why is the vehicle customisation screen on my IS300h greyed out? Im new to the car so I am probably asking something blatantly obvious. I thought that I would be allowed access to the door lock settings etc. Thanks, Anthony.....

Hi Got my IS300h this week and sometimes the cruise control stalk wont disengage cruise whilst in it by pulling towards me. Seems to zone out and become unresponsive every now and then. Works fine when its working but just every now and then it'll do it. Anybody heard of this before?